Quick answer: Chandratal Lake sits in the Spiti sub-division of Himachal Pradesh’s Lahaul-Spiti district, not in Ladakh, at about 4,300 m (14,100 ft) near Kunzum Pass. Most searches for “Ladakh Chandratal” mean the Manali – Spiti – Ladakh loop, like this Mega Meet route. Camping right at the lake is not allowed, and designated camps sit a few km before it, near the parking area.
Chandratal Lake at a glance (as of November 2026)
- Where: Spiti sub-division, Lahaul-Spiti district, Himachal Pradesh (not Ladakh)
- Altitude: about 4,300 m / 14,100 ft per The Tribune (30 May 2026); some guides quote 4,270 m, so treat it as roughly 14,000 to 14,200 ft
- The lake: crescent-shaped, about 2.5 km around, a Ramsar wetland inside the Chandertal Wildlife Sanctuary (nearly 50 sq km)
- Road: a 16 km road from Batal, with the last stretch usually covered on foot (0.5 to 2 km depending on where the parking ends)
- Entry fee: Rs 150 per Indian visitor and Rs 500 per foreign national per day, introduced by the Forest Department in 2025 (The Tribune (10 June 2025))
- Season: generally June to October. The route reopened to all vehicles on 30 May 2026
- Mobile network: none after Gramphu until you come near Losar (as we found on this trip)
- Last updated: November 2026
The Journey so far…
- Prologue, Itinerary & Road Updates
- Preview – 17 High Mountain Passes
- Preview – 14 Magical Lakes
- Rush from Srinagar to Kargil
- Heartbreak over Kargil to Leh
- Smiles, Sleep & Steps in Leh
- Mess-up at Khardung La to Nubra Valley
- Nerves of Wari La Pass Route
- Charmness over Chang La Pass to Pangong Tso
- Anxiety over Pangong Tso – Chusul – Hanle
- Freedom around Kyon Tso 1 & Kyon Tso 2
- Shock on Nidar – Yaye Tso – Horla
- Darkness over Tso Moriri – Tso Kar Lake
- Solitude of Manali – Leh Highway
What Happened on Day 10 of Our Mega Meet: Sissu to Chandratal to Losar?
Quick answer: Day 10 of the Ladakh Mega Meet took our group from Sissu to Chandratal Lake and then over Kunzum Pass to Losar, on a diversion with almost no road, big water crossings and a broken torsion rod. We finally saw the lake after a 4-year wait. The photos are from 2013, so read the road details as history and check the 2026 facts further below.
Last night, the dreams of witnessing Chandratal was all over me… Almost 4 years after, when my love affair with Travel started as death cheated me on my first ever real trip to Himalayas and this Charismatic Chandratal eluded me by a KM due to inclement weather conditions… I hope you had read that adventure story which lead to the inception of DoW about 4.5 Years back 🙂 … If not, give a read here: Exploring Chandratal | Batal to Chandratal to Batal Trek … There were two more attempts made to see this lovely Lake but all went in vain for one or the other reasons. So, this had to happen for sure, no matter what 😀
Day 10 | Sissu – Gramphu – Chattru – Batal – Chandratal – Kunzum Pass – Losar
We had moments of sorrow last night and both Rigzin, Sonam left at night only about 3 AM. Temperature at Sissu was warm but we had to travel in deep corner of Spiti Valley to see Chandratal lake, the last Lake of our trip to make the count to 14… We all woke up early as we had to leave at 7 AM for sure and all were ready too except the taxis that had to come from Keylong 😥 … Every minute wasted in the wait was feeling like a day and that’s all because of the excitement to see Chandratal Lake. Everyone was abusing the drivers as I kept myself busy in clicking pictures of the early morning mist around Hotel Triveni, Sissu The detailed review will be written soon anyways. By 7:45 AM the taxis came and by 8.15 AM we all moved towards Chandratal. Now, we had one Xylo and one Tavera along with Nabeel’s bike. All in all, 10 were left in the group for this final leg of the this Mega Epic Trip… Place was to first reach Khoksar and have breakfast. We did exactly that and had a nice breakfast at Khoksar
Then, we moved ahead and met few friends + couple of readers of DoW at Gramphu who were traveling to Ladakh. I guided them about weather conditions and road conditions before we slipped into the diversion to Spiti Valley at Gramphu The road goes from Chattru – Chota Dhara – Batal – Chandratal Lake diversion on a rocky, almost river bed kind of conditions. There is a saying that “the path to heaven goes through hell”, and this road to Spiti Valley is aptly applicable with this hard truth 🙂 … There are no roads at all, pebbles, rocks, boulders, water crossings and what not… The roads up to Chattru are still manageable but then it’s just hell that break loose… The Phone Signal goes away at Gramphu and is only restored once you reach near Losar after crossing Kunzum Pass We kept moving before the first water crossing blocked us in between and the comedy begun 😀 😀
The driver who was with us just rushed through that water crossing, jumping the car here and there, kissing the underbelly of Tavera and as he crossed to the other end, he said, "Chalo sir, dekhte hani kya toota (Let’s see sir what broke beneath, in underbelly)" 😀 😯 😀 … I was like WTF, Dude !! You are a native local driver who knows how to handle such water crossings… Never mind we moved further and guess what, again there was a bigger water crossing this time, Dorni Nalla it is called. I was a bit afraid sitting in front and the bugger again did the same as the car hit 1,2,3… places 😥 😥 … Thank god it did not break.
We got a a chance to meet the other group of Innova too this time and each of them were looking bamboozled with white faces !! I asked, “what happened guys?? Is everything all right??” and Pradeep replied "Bhai, Kaisa driver hai ye?? Paani aata hai and ye pooja karne lagta hai aankh band karke, haath jodd ke (What kind of local driver is he?? As the water crossing comes, the driver starts praying with folded hands and closed eyes…)" 😀 😯 😀 … I was again like WTF, Dude !!
Now, you can imagine in what kind of safe hands of locals we were into for this final leg of the journey 😉 … One guys hugs the boulder of his car at under belly and the other prays before pushing through the water crossings 😀 … I kept all this aside and lost in the beautiful valley around us for which there are no words to write here… Though the roads are treacherous BUT magic around you of the valley just sweeps you off your feet. It is surreal, it is magical and it keeps calling me again and again… We kept clicking pictures as the river almost came along us now and it was a purely pristine feeling inside. Words fall short to explain the beauty and isolation of this terrain, especially during late/early season.
Soon we reached Chandra Dhabha at Batal where we all enjoyed a cup of Tea together before hitting the road to Kunzum Pass and divert towards Chandratal Lake from it. I went inside Chandra Dhabha, hugged the Dorje uncle, narrated him the whole story what happened to me when I came there about 4 years back and how indebted I am for almost helping me as a saviour that day !! He smiled and said, it keeps happening here son and we all smiled 🙂 … Dorje uncle has good sense of humour and he keeps you laughing all the time with his one or other jokes. Dorje Uncle and his wife together has won many bravery awards for their gallantry efforts to save so many lives in this region due to harsh climatic conditions and people who get landlocked due to natural calamity. He helped a group of 30 odd people stuck in snowfall in August 2011 or 2012, if I remember correctly. He is truly a great asset to this region of Spiti Valley and provides all necessary help plus stuff to survive in case the need arise along with his warm smiling efforts.
We were getting late for Chandratal, so we moved ahead and soon took the diversion to Chandratal from Kunzum Pass. The driver, whole way, was continuously boasting his skills but we knew what we were into 😀 … He kept saying that he had broken 5-6 torsion roads of his Tavera and we were feeling very anxious as the trail to Chandratal is so narrow with deep gorge on one side 😉 I asked him to concentrate on road every now and then as he was taking his eyes off the road every now and then 😀 …
Suddenly on those narrow path a crank sound came, our heads crashed into windows or with each other as a sudden break was applied !! The car stopped just besides the edge of gorge and we were like "WHAT THE F*** !!" … As we got down to see what happened, the Torsion rod of Tavera was all gone !! Can you believe it?? 😯 😯 He broke that rod yet another time and I can imagine the way he was passing the gushing water crossings, hitting the under belly of the car so much, something had to happen for sure and it was just a matter of time. The edge of the gorge was so close that we had trouble getting out comfortably from the left side 😯 … Anyways, now what, was the question for all of us 😀 :D… I was thinking on the lines that yet another time Chandratal will elude me 😥 😥 … The place is jinxed I feel for me but this time I was determined enough to walk all the way to it and come back to sleep at Batal or there only. But, at any cost I had to see Chandratal, no matter what !!
The car had broke down right in the middle of the narrow path and soon another taxi having some foreigners came in from the other side. That driver seemed much more practical and knowledgeable. He removed the rod and forced the corks given with it into the slots and Bingo!! The car came back to normal position though this temporary fix will mean that more bumps, more crashing of heads into each other and very slow speed 😀 😀 … At least we were back on the ride, though a bumpy and pathetically slow ride. Finally, we crawled to the last place till where vehicles can reach on this trail to Chandratal and from there it was a short half a KM hike to Chandratal Lake. There were couple of friends I knew from Delhi, Rajiv & Harjeev, who were also present there. So, I met them first, we chatted for good time before I started moving to the lake with our group.
The excitement within doubled as we approached more and more close to this magical lake and there it was… the first sight of Charismatic Chandratal… The inner joy to see it is simply that I cannot write here in words, simply gorgeous site filled with tranquility in the air surrounding it. We spent good 1+ Hr sitting besides this lovely lake and finally the 4 year pending dream of a sight of Chandratal had come true… Though we missed the reflections this lake is famous for but nevertheless, given the circumstances I will take whatever it is and of course, missing the reflections meant another visit in future to this beautiful ornament offered by nature… You can read everything about Chandratal Lake in travel guides section at the link: Delhi to Chandratal Lake, Spiti Valley | Travel Guide … It was time to go back to Losar where we had to stay overnight after scaling the 16th Pass of the trip, Kunzum Pass at an altitude of 4590 Mtrs…
The road from the diversion up to the Kunzum Pass top and beyond till 19 KMs down to Losar was all dirt track with rocks and potholes. We reached Kunzum Top and it was a great feeling to be there after last 4+ years of traveling to such places… I loved the way it was positioned. We took the parikarma, which is mandatory for anyone passing the Kunzum Pass… I know these are rituals and beliefs of mountains but I always have faith in them and will always have, no matter how much the modernization affect my mind set… Everyone must respect them because it is these mountain gods only who protects us on our arduous journeys to mighty Himalayas as per my beliefs 🙂 … After a while we moved on towards Losar.
The lack of torsion rod in our car made the journey from bad to miserable and I was cursing myself on the decision of going all the way to Losar from Chandratal on that treacherous road which helped with nothing but dis-comfort all the way to Losar. It had been much better that we had camped at Chandratal Camp site and even witnessed the reflections next morning before going back home via Manali… or even a stay back at Batal PWD Rest House or Dorje Uncle Dhabha would have been good enough… But, a sorry decision was already taken and cannot be backed away 😥 :cry:… Anyways, after long hours of head crashing bumpy drive, we reached Losar in the evening but to some extent stay and food at Nomad Cottage was a bit relief. The boys cat the cottage cooked really nice food and Sahil was present there to have gup shups too with other local friends… By the time darkness fell, both our Drivers were hit with AMS 😯 😯 … I was like, "Man, are you kidding me!! … What the shit is happening around since morning…" … We gave them disprins/diamox, asked them to sleep tight and warm for the night. We ate a delicious dinner cooked for us and even though it was a cold night at Losar, we all slept fine together one last time in Himalayas on this Mega Epic trip to Ladakh from DwD Community…
Have you ever been in a situation where your lives were in hands of some untrained people?? Are you planning to visit Chandratal and have any queries? I will look forward to listen you in the comments section below…
What Has Changed at Chandratal Since This Trip?
Quick answer: Quite a lot, my friend. Chandratal is now a protected Ramsar wetland with a daily entry fee, lakeside camping is not allowed, and the route reopened for all vehicles on 30 May 2026 after the winter closure. The rough Gramphu – Chhatru – Batal stretch is still the hard part.
Let us look at the changes one by one. First, the entry fee. In June 2025 the Himachal Forest Department introduced user fees for eco-sensitive areas of Spiti including Chandratal, Kibber and Pin Valley. As per The Tribune (10 June 2025), Indian tourists pay Rs 150 per person per day and foreign nationals Rs 500, with tent installation charged at Rs 200 to Rs 500 per day. Collection details can differ on the ground, so carry some cash and ask your driver.
Second, the protection status. The lake lies inside the Chandertal Wildlife Sanctuary, which spreads over nearly 50 sq km, and it is recognised as a Ramsar Site of international importance. As per The Tribune (30 May 2026), the district administration and BRO reopened the route for all types of vehicles, with Deputy Commissioner Kiran Bhadana issuing the notification. More background is on Wikipedia.
Third, the camping rules. Back in July 2019, The Tribune (July 2019) reported that the Koksar panchayat had banned camps near the lake because kitchen waste and garbage were threatening the water and the wildlife. Hence, the sentence in the story above about how we should have camped at Chandratal no longer applies. Today, camps run at a designated site a few km before the lake, near the parking area, as covered in our Delhi to Chandratal Lake travel guide.
Fourth, the road. The Tribune reports a 16 km road from Batal to the lake, while our travel guide says the motorable part ends a little earlier, leaving 1.5 to 2 km on foot. It also calls the Gramphu stretch rough. In case you are driving yourself, a high-clearance vehicle and a local driver are still the sensible choice.
How Do You Reach Chandratal From Manali or Kaza?
Quick answer: There are two ways in. From Manali it is about 125 km via Gramphu, Chhatru and Batal. From Kaza you come via Losar and Kunzum Pass, with Kaza about 80 km away, as per our travel guide. Batal is roughly 14 to 16 km from the lake by road. Either way, plan a full day.
The route we followed on Day 10, in order, was this:
- Sissu (hotel) to Khoksar, where we stopped for breakfast
- Khoksar to the Gramphu diversion towards Spiti Valley
- Gramphu to Chattru, Chota Dhara and Batal, with tea at Chandra Dhabha
- Batal to the Chandratal diversion and the walk to the lake
- Back to Kunzum Pass, then about 19 km down to Losar for the night
Keep in mind that the Atal Tunnel did not exist then. If you start from Manali today, the tunnel brings you out near Sissu, from where you drive back towards Khoksar and the Gramphu diversion. For the full planning, vehicle and cost details, please go through our Chandratal travel guide, the Chandratal itinerary and the cheapest ways to travel there. The Kaza side is covered in Losar and Kunzum Pass.
Can You Camp or Stay Overnight Near Chandratal?
Quick answer: No camping is allowed at the lakeside. Designated camps operate about 2 to 3 km before the lake near the parking area, and the other options are Batal, where the story above mentions the HP PWD Rest House and Chandra Dhabha. Prices and sites change every season, so confirm with the camp operator.
Batal is a simpler fallback, and Losar is another night halt on the Kaza side, which is where we ended Day 10. For the wider picture of where camping is allowed across the valley, see camping in Spiti Valley and Kinnaur. Whatever you pick, carry your waste back with you, because this is a Ramsar wetland and the 2019 ban came exactly because of garbage.
When Does the Road to Chandratal Open and Close?
Quick answer: The route generally stays open from June to October. In 2026 the district administration and BRO reopened it for all vehicles around 30 May. Heavy snowfall cuts access in winter, so early November is the tail end of the season and you must verify the status before leaving.
As of 2026, The Tribune (30 May 2026) confirms the reopening and the June to October window. Keep in mind that Kunzum Pass and the Batal diversion can shut early after a snowfall, even when the calendar says October. Hence, check the latest on our Spiti – Manali – Kaza road status post and the best season to travel to Spiti Valley guide before you commit to dates.
What Safety Precautions Should You Take Before Driving to Chandratal?
Quick answer: Acclimatise before going above 4,000 m, start early so water crossings are lower, fill your tank before leaving the main highway, and expect no mobile network from Gramphu until near Losar. The lake is at about 4,300 m, so AMS is a real risk.
- AMS: in the story above, both our drivers were hit with AMS at Losar the same evening. Ascend gradually, drink water, and talk to a doctor before carrying Diamox. Read about AMS at Sarchu to know the symptoms.
- Water crossings: glacial streams like Dorni Nalla swell as the day warms up. Hence, leave Sissu or Manali early, around 7 AM.
- Fuel and cash: there is no petrol pump at Batal or Chandratal, so fill up before you turn off the highway, and carry cash for entry fees, tea and camps.
Frequently Asked Questions About Chandratal Lake
Is Chandratal in Ladakh or Spiti?
Chandratal is in the Spiti sub-division of the Lahaul-Spiti district, Himachal Pradesh, not in Ladakh. It only gets bracketed with Ladakh because trips like our Mega Meet cover both on one Manali – Spiti – Ladakh loop.
What is the altitude of Chandratal Lake?
Chandratal sits at about 4,300 metres (14,100 ft) according to The Tribune, while some guides quote 4,270 metres. It is close to Kunzum Pass, which is quoted at roughly 4,550 to 4,590 metres depending on the source.
How far is Chandratal from Leh, Ladakh?
Roughly 400 to 470 km depending on the route, which is a multi-day drive and not a same-day trip. Treat it as part of a Manali – Spiti – Ladakh loop and check distances on a map before planning.
Can you camp directly at Chandratal Lake?
No. Camping at the lakeside is banned, with the Koksar panchayat announcing a ban on camps near the lake in 2019 to protect the water and wildlife. Designated campsites operate about 2 to 3 km before the lake, near the parking area. Confirm sites and rates with your operator.
Is there an entry fee for Chandratal Lake?
Yes. As per The Tribune (10 June 2025), the Forest Department charges Rs 150 per Indian tourist and Rs 500 per foreign national per day at eco-sensitive Spiti areas including Chandratal. Tent installation is Rs 200 to Rs 500 per day. Verify the current collection arrangement locally.
When does the road to Chandratal open each year?
The route generally stays open from June to October. In 2026 it reopened for all vehicles around 30 May after BRO and the district administration cleared the winter snow. Early snowfall can close it sooner, so check the same-week status before driving in.
I hope this trip report, along with the 2026 updates, helps you plan your own Chandratal visit. In case you have been there recently, please share the latest road, camp and fee details in the comments section so that other travelers benefit. Feel free to ask your questions, and for travel partners and trip discussions, join the DwD Community. Do share this article with friends who are planning the Manali – Spiti – Ladakh loop 🙂 …
Last Updated: November 2026. This article has been updated with the latest entry fee, protection status and route information.
The Journey ahead…
21 Comments
Comments section gets closed in 90 days. To ask your travel questions, you can follow my YouTube Channel for a faster reply or for a much slower reply follow me on Instagram. :)
Hi, just back from spiti, in a self driven alto.. went n came back via kinnaur. We did make the wise decision of hiring an Innova Crysta from Kaza, the only one available, with the best driver, for a day trip to Chandratal. It was the smoothest ride possible in such terrains. Didnt witness the reflections, but it was awesome. And ys, Losar is very beautiful, had a delicious lunch of rajma-chawal. Keep writing Dheeraj, love ur blogs.
That is wonderful to know Anu that you had such a great trip and I am so glad the blogs could be of help !!
Hi Dheeraj,
Your articles are great help while planning any trip in trans Himalayas. Thanks for sharing your experiences. I am planning to go Chandratal from Gurgaon in July 2nd week. Can you please suggest is it doable in 4 days? How far can we go in Spiti if we have 4 days in hand? What is the length of trek and how far can we go via SUV? What is the time and season you suggest to a traveler when it comes to doing Chandratal? Waiting for your reply….
Thanks
Richa
Richa, I always suggest following plan for Chandratal as most optimized version:
Day 1 | Delhi – Manali and stay overnight at Solang Valley
Day 2 | Solang – Khoksar/Sissu
Day 3 | Khoksar/Sissu – Chandratal
Day 4 | Chandratal – Manali
Day 5 | Manali – Delhi
From diversion point to Chandratal it is 14 KMs, in case the road is closed in between you need to trek the remaining part. As of now the road has been opened to Chandratal doable by SUV. Last 700-800 Mtrs you need to trek anyways as there is no road ahead of parking spot. In caase you plan in September it will be best but you have already planned in July I see.
Thanks for quick reply Dheeraj
What if we leave from Delhi on Friday evening and reach Manali by Saturday morning??… This way we can stay at Khoksar/Sissu on Saturday and start our way back to Delhi on Tuesday…. Would it be possible?
Richa, you can try that for sure in case you guys feel good about traveling that long.
Ok. Thanks for the help Dheeraj 🙂
we are going for chandratal lake. send me about rout and packege
We do not sell any packages. DoW is an info. sharing platform. If you looking for packages, you can check with info@offbeatescapes.com
Hi Dheeraj,
it was like we were with you when i read your report. Must be amazing.
We are planning in late May this year to visit Spiti from Simla.
Is it advisable to go through the Kunzum and Rohthang and come into Manali, since the road conditions seemed the worst on that stretch or should we wind our way back to Shimla from Kaza and less time on the treacherous roads. Since you have done this circuit I need your input.
Thank you Bina !!
Late May is not the right time to travel on Manali to Kaza road over Kunzum Pass in case you interested in it. The road most likely will be closed between Gramphu and Batal below Kunzum Pass. You will have to come back from Shimla side only.
Hello Dheeraj, I am planning a bike trip to Chardertal Lake from October 23 to October 27. I am planning to go from New Delhi- Shimla – Narkanda – Kaza – Chandratal – Rohtang – Manali – New Delhi. Wanted to know if there is accomodation availible at the lake and other tips you might want to give.
Puneet, mid October is when every one runs away from that terrain packing their stuff, even Dorje Uncle at Batal dhabha leaves by then. I will not advice you to travel Chandratal that late in the season as it is quite risky proposition.
awesome…mesmerized..Dheeraj bhai, I was waiting badly for this..
do you have any plan to explore this route further in this year..I mean Ladakh Mega Meet – 2…!!!
if so, then please let me inform.. 🙂
your pics and detailed narration has made me crazy to explore this route.. !!!
Thank you Sumit and at the same time Sorry, we will not have Ladakh Mega Meet in couple of years from now. This year we will behaving in Spiti Valley our Mega Meet whose registrations are already open and will close by 20th July. We will be covering the missed reflections of Chandratal anyhow in this Mega Meet 🙂
Thanks for your prompt reply…will you please inform me the detailed itinerary and proposed budget?
🙂
Sumit please check: Hidden Gems of Spiti Valley | DoW Mega Meet 2014
off-roading…trekking…camping…plus the virgin spiti valley…what else one could expect!!!
thanks a lot for sharing this,let me check my schedule and nothing major happens then I am in..
btw, am from mumbai and anyone from here???
Sumit, yes Sourabh will be coming from Mumbai. Also, we have a Green Clean Kasol Drive on 21st and once that completes I will be active and you can see the response list with more names.
Awsome narration. Great pictures and I satlute to Dorje uncle for his bravery. Dheeraj bhai Your tales make people to explore these himalayan treasures and I am excited about wht is gonna be happen during spiti mega meet. “AMS suffering drivers” situation was very funny. Waiting for another
CHARISMATIC story. . .
Thank you so much Narendra bhai !! Yes, this was absolutely amazing trip and I have same hopes from Spiti Mega Meet too this year. The whole day was funny and brother please mark your final attendance on Mega Meet 2014 by filling this simple Google form: DoW Mega Meet 2014 | Spiti Valley