If you are planning to take the Leh to Chumathang route on your way to Tso Moriri or Hanle, this travelogue will give you a good idea of what to expect along the way. This was Day 3 of our Ladakh trip in 2012, the day we left Leh and headed into the remote Changthang region, visiting Stakna Monastery and Hemis Monastery before reaching the natural hot springs at Chumathang.

Last Updated: February 2026

Quick Route Overview: Leh to Chumathang

The total distance from Leh to Chumathang is about 148 km via Upshi. The route follows the Manali – Leh Highway up to Upshi (about 60 km from Leh) and then takes a left turn towards the Changthang region. From Upshi to Chumathang, the distance is about 88 km along the Indus River. On this particular day, we also made detours to Stakna Monastery (25 km from Leh) and Hemis Monastery (about 47 km from Leh), so the total travel was longer. Keep in mind that road conditions on the Upshi to Chumathang stretch can be unpredictable due to landslides and BRO road-widening work, so plan for a full day of travel.

The Journey So Far

This is part of a multi-day Ladakh travelogue series. In case you want to read from the beginning, here are the earlier parts:

How Did Day 3 of Our Ladakh Trip Begin?

It was 6 AM in the morning and I woke up with some great sunrise views of the Stok Kangri range from the window. The night was pleasant and in fact I did not even know when sleep took over the senses. Weather was again a little dark and we had to leave by 8 AM. Today was an important day as we were all set to leave Leh for the next 5 days in order to explore the remote parts of the Changthang region of Ladakh, better known as the Cold Desert.

Excitement was rising day by day. Even though I was not getting the pictures of popped clouds with blue background due to overcast conditions, the personal experience was just exhilarating. I decided to take a bath in the cold conditions even with whatever lukewarm water we had in our guest house. Immediately after the bath I realized that I had done a mistake 😀 … Soon, both Tejas and Himanshu were also ready and we went out for breakfast at about 7:30 AM to Lamayuru Restaurant. Like last night’s food, we had an awesome breakfast too and fell in love with the taste of Lamayuru. Soon the call came from Rigzin asking the whereabouts and we were all set for the remotest journey of our lives.

Sunlight breaks at Stok Kangri Range…
Sunlight breaks at Stok Kangri Range...
Lamayuru Restaurant at Leh…
Lamayuru Restaurant at Leh
Gesmo Restaurant at Leh…
Gesmo Restaurant at Leh
A Cutie Ready for the Click…
A Cutie Ready for the Click...
Our Guest House at Leh… Glacier View…
Our Guest House at Leh... Glacier View...

We paid Rs 1,000 to the owner lady at Glacier View Guest House for two days, thanked her, and Juley! Rigzin was all smiling again. Since Chang La was closed the previous day, we decided to do the circuit in reverse direction, starting from Tso Moriri rather than the earlier plan via Pangong Tso. Hence, the planned target for overnight stay became Chumathang rather than Tangste.

On the way, we decided to cover a few monasteries that fall on the route, including Shey Palace, Thiksey Monastery, Stakna Monastery, and Hemis Monastery. We told Rigzin that we will cover any two on the way towards Tso Moriri and the remaining two on the way back from Pangong Tso. Rigzin decided to skip Shey and Thiksey and headed to Stakna Monastery first.

What Is Stakna Monastery and Why Should You Visit?

Stakna Monastery is about 25 km from Leh, located just off the Manali – Leh Highway after Thiksey. You need to take a right diversion that goes over the Indus River through a lovely bridge. The monastery sits on a hilltop and offers some of the best views of the Indus Valley.

The name “Stakna” literally means “tiger’s nose” because the monastery is built on top of a hill shaped like a tiger. It was founded way back in the 16th century by a Bhutanese scholar. The monastery houses the remains of the scholar’s wardrobe, equipment used in those times, beautiful scriptures, and fine art paintings over the whole walls. We explored how they preserve their books in an organized and peculiar way. It was an extremely insightful session by the monk present in the monastery.

The view of Thiksey Monastery from outside the Stakna complex was a treat to the eyes as the aqua-coloured Indus River flows at the bottom of the scene. If you have time, I suggest you spend at least 30-45 minutes here because the views alone are worth the detour. You can read more about this monastery in my detailed Stakna Monastery travel guide.

Bridge to Stakna Monastery…
Bridge to Stakna Monastery...
Stakna Monastery…
Stakna Monastery...
Thiksey Monastery as Seen from Stakna Monastery…
Thiksey Monastery as Seen from Stakna Monastery...
Thiksey Monastery as Seen from Stakna Monastery…
Thiksey Monastery as Seen from Stakna Monastery...
It is not an egg ;)… At Stakna Monastery…
It is not an egg...  Stakna Monastery

What Was Our Experience at Hemis Monastery?

Hemis Monastery is one of the largest and most famous monasteries in Ladakh, located about 47 km from Leh. It was originally developed way back in the 11th century but was re-established in 1672. Instead of taking the main road via Karu, Rigzin took a shortcut through the pasture lands behind Stakna Monastery. The road was in very bad shape at most places but somehow we managed to reach the ascending roads to Hemis.

The ascend was quite steep and for the first time I started to have a mild headache as we reached Hemis. This was a concerning sign. In case you also start feeling a headache at Hemis, keep in mind that it could be early signs of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). I would suggest you read my detailed article on Acute Mountain Sickness and the importance of acclimatization before you plan this journey.

Hemis houses a museum where you can see beautiful art work, wardrobes, equipment, and arms used by deities in Buddhist mythologies. This monastery also hosts the famous Hemis Festival honouring Padmasambhava every year in early June/July. As of 2026, the entry fee at Hemis Monastery is Rs 50 per person. We entered the complex where the preparation for the festival was going on as monks were dancing to the soothing music.

We explored the museum quickly as it was pretty cold down in the basement and our feet were getting almost numb due to the coldness down there. We quickly came out and headed back to our vehicle. Meanwhile, we got a chance to change the long lens and shoot the Lord Buddha statue present atop a hill in front of the Hemis complex. For a detailed guide on Hemis, you can check my Hemis Monastery complete travel guide.

Hemis Monastery…
Hemis Monastery...
Hemis Monastery…
Hemis Monastery...
Hemis Monastery…
Hemis Monastery...
Preparations for Hemis Festival…
Preparations for Hemis Festival...
Lord Buddha at Hemis Monastery…
Lord Buddha at Hemis Monastery...
Views from Hemis Monastery…
Views from Hemis Monastery...

What Is the Road from Upshi to Chumathang Like?

Upshi is the key junction point for this route, located about 60 km from Leh. At Upshi, the Manali – Leh Highway goes to the right towards Taglang La and Manali, while the road to the left goes towards Chumathang, Loma, and Hanle into the Changthang region. This is where you enter the remote part of Ladakh.

We decided to halt for lunch at Upshi. Rigzin was hungry and we also wanted a bit of rest before starting the long part of the journey. As we ordered food for Rigzin, we decided to have some black tea which settled my headache a bit. It was cold. Shall I say, very cold. We bought some wafers and biscuits as well so as to keep ourselves fine up to 4 PM or so, as Chumathang was about 88 km from Upshi. Keep in mind that there is no civilian settlement before Chumathang where you can get something to eat, so carrying snacks from Upshi is a smart decision.

At Upshi, Left goes to Tso Moriri and Right Manali…
At Upshi, Left goes to Tso MOriri and Right Manali...
Upshi Village… Some information…
Upshi Village... Some information...

Landslides and Road Widening Work

As we ran a few kilometres into the road towards Tso Moriri, we encountered a landslide ahead and had to wait for it to get cleared. After about half an hour, it was cleared and we were again all set to run towards Chumathang. The vistas en route are much like you are running between canyons because of the narrow valley terrain. The Indus River flows alongside you with mountains on both sides. The colour of the Indus was almost green and at many places it was still frozen into white snow.

There came a ruined bridge where we stopped for a while and had a nice photo session. We tried to step over the bridge but did not have the courage to do so, apart from Rigzin who jumped across it in no time 🙂 … After some smiling moments, we were back on the road again.

Roadway or Riverway… Beautiful Indus River…
Roadway or Riverway... Beautiful Indus River...
Landslide on the way to Chumathang…
Landslide on the way to Chumathang...
Landslide on the way to Chumathang…
Landslide on the way to Chumathang...
Would you dare crossing that bridge…
Would you dare crossing that bridge...
Would you dare crossing that bridge…
Would you dare crossing that bridge...

The Nerve-Wracking Moment Near Kiary

Sadly, after a while, the road widening operation was under way and bulldozers were at work to completely throw huge walls of rocks below. This was not going to get over soon, so our wafers were the rescue here as it took about 1 hour to get the clearance from the BRO guys.

We started again and my headache was back. Not sure what it was, AMS or the side effects of the morning bath. Perhaps the latter. In between, as we passed Kiary hamlet, someone had placed his truck leaving almost very little space to let other vehicles pass alongside the gorge. He was drilling into the mountain for blasting. As Rigzin asked him to give the side, there was some exchange of words between the GREF guys and Rigzin, and soon between us. The man was not ready to give space even when there was plenty on the side of the mountain where he was drilling.

As we were having words with him, Rigzin in frustration took the risk and in one go, got the vehicle through the narrow space alongside the cliff. I could not believe my eyes as the tyres were almost on the edge of the cliff at one stage. Tejas, who was sitting next to him, had his heart in his mouth 😀 … We took some easy breaths and helped one more Xylo behind us get through. The conditions were pretty cold and the cold wind was making matters worse, but the scenery held us along 🙂 We also took some clicks at the “3 Idiots” shooting point near the bridge.

One Scary Moment Among Many…
One Scary Moment Among Many...
3 Idiots Shooting Point…
3 Idiots Shooting Point...
One Vehicle at a Time… 3 Idiots Shooting Point…
One Vehicle at a Time...3 Idiots Shooting Point...
Ahh.. The roads are pretty fine to Chumathang…
Ahh.. The roads are pretty fine to Chumathang...
Posing in Cold Conditions…
Posing in Cold Conditions...

What Are the Chumathang Hot Springs Like?

Chumathang is a small settlement in the Changthang region of Ladakh, located at an altitude of about 14,300 feet. The main attraction here is the natural hot springs. The water coming out of the ground was super hot. I was surprised to see such hot water even in such cold conditions. Thank God I put my hands in cautiously.

As of 2026, there are about 3-4 bathrooms built around the hot springs where tourists can bathe in the hot water. There is no entry fee for the hot springs. The best time to experience these springs is during summer months (June to September) when the road is reliably open. However, some travelers also visit in winter for a unique experience, though the road conditions become extremely challenging.

Hot Springs of Chumathang…
Hot Springs of Chumathang...
Hot Springs of Chumathang…
Hot Springs of Chumathang...
Hot Springs of Chumathang…
Hot Springs of Chumathang...

Where Did We Stay at Chumathang?

At Chumathang, the dhaba/restaurant owner runs a basic guest house and a general store that almost had everything on offer, be it baby’s Lactogen/Farex or be it Old Monk 😉 and everything in between. All the army jawans around come over to the dhaba for any such requirements 😀 … He asked us to select the room and we decided on one and were surprised to see a bathtub (though self-made), but it was there! The room was pretty basic but that is what we only needed, a place to sleep.

As of 2026, accommodation options at Chumathang include basic homestays and guesthouses. Expect to pay around Rs 800 to Rs 1,500 per room per night. The food is home-cooked and surprisingly good. Do not expect luxury here, my friend. This is the Changthang region and basic amenities are all you will get. But the warmth of the locals and the home-cooked meals more than make up for it.

Guest House at Chumathang…
Guest House at Chumathang...

How Was the Evening and Night at Chumathang?

I put on a layer of thermals more as it was getting colder and colder. Even Rigzin had a headache there and my trouble kept increasing. We tried to sleep for a while before ordering food for the night in the late evening. As we stepped out around 6 PM, the super cold wind was almost trying to sweep us with it. Quickly we ran to the restaurant where the ladies started preparing dinner for us as the sunset concluded.

The headache was troubling me a lot but there was no other sign of nausea or fatigue, which was a good signal as it might not be AMS but the cold wind into my wet head 🙁 … I was cursing myself for taking that bath in the morning! Within half an hour, dinner was ready. Dal, Mutter Paneer, Curd, Rice, and Tawa Rotis were much welcomed as we concluded the dinner with black tea. The food was very tasty and almost gave us the feeling of home. Juley to everyone including the ladies who cooked such nice food, and we were back to our room for a good night’s sleep.

I knew it was not going to be an easy night to sleep and I took a dose of headache medicine and slept in a sitting posture for about 3-4 hours. Finally, the sweet sleep set in and I was dreaming of the next day and the colours of Tso Moriri lake.

Practical Tips for the Leh to Chumathang Route

Based on my experience and multiple trips to this region over the years, here are some practical tips that will help you plan this journey better.

Distance and Time

  • Leh to Upshi: About 60 km, takes 1.5 to 2 hours
  • Upshi to Chumathang: About 88 km, takes 3 to 4 hours depending on road conditions
  • Total Leh to Chumathang: About 148 km, plan for 5 to 6 hours including stops
  • Leh to Stakna Monastery: About 25 km (small detour off the highway)
  • Leh to Hemis Monastery: About 47 km

Road Conditions

The road from Leh to Upshi along the Manali – Leh Highway is generally good. However, the stretch from Upshi to Chumathang can be tricky. Landslides are common, BRO road-widening work can cause delays of 30 minutes to 2 hours, and in some sections you are driving along narrow roads with steep drops to the gorge below. A SUV or any high-clearance vehicle is recommended for this route. Sedans can make it but will face difficulties at some spots. For more information on self-driving tips, check my 7 useful tips for a self-drive to Leh Ladakh.

Food and Supplies

Upshi is your last reliable stop for food before Chumathang. I suggest you stock up on biscuits, wafers, dry fruits, and water at Upshi. There are no civilian settlements between Upshi and Chumathang where you can buy food. At Chumathang itself, the dhaba serves basic but delicious home-cooked meals.

Permits

You will need an Inner Line Permit (ILP) to travel beyond Upshi into the Changthang region. As of 2026, domestic tourists can apply for the Ladakh environment fee and permits online. I have covered this in detail in my article on how to get Ladakh Inner Line Permits online.

Mobile Network

Mobile network is available at Upshi but becomes unreliable after that. BSNL postpaid has the best coverage in this region. Jio has improved coverage along the main route but do not expect consistent service between Upshi and Chumathang. For detailed information, check my article on mobile phone connectivity in Leh Ladakh.

AMS Warning

Chumathang is at about 14,300 feet. If you have just arrived in Leh and have not acclimatized properly, you might face headaches, nausea, or other AMS symptoms here. I would strongly suggest spending at least 2 days in Leh for acclimatization before heading towards the Changthang region. Please take a sensible call for yourself and your loved ones waiting for your safe return.

The Journey Ahead

The next day was going to be special as we headed towards Tso Moriri, one of the most beautiful high-altitude lakes in Ladakh. You can continue reading the travelogue here:

Also, if you are planning a complete Ladakh trip, I would suggest you check my most common itinerary for Leh Ladakh which covers day-by-day planning for a 12-14 day road trip. For those flying into Leh, you can also check the Ladakh itinerary by air.

Related Reading

I hope this travelogue helps you plan your journey from Leh towards Chumathang and the Changthang region of Ladakh. In case you have any questions or need help with planning, feel free to ask in the comments section below or post your query in the DwD Community. I will be happy to help 🙂 …

Frequently Asked Questions

How far is Chumathang from Leh?

Chumathang is about 148 km from Leh via Upshi. The journey takes approximately 5 to 6 hours depending on road conditions, landslides, and BRO work along the route. The road goes along the Indus River through some very scenic but remote terrain.

Is there accommodation available at Chumathang?

Yes, there are basic guesthouses and homestays available at Chumathang. As of 2026, expect to pay around Rs 800 to Rs 1,500 per room per night. The facilities are basic but clean, and the food is home-cooked. There is also a small general store that stocks essentials.

Do I need a permit to visit Chumathang?

Yes, you need an Inner Line Permit (ILP) to travel beyond Upshi into the Changthang region. This covers Chumathang, Hanle, and Tso Moriri. As of 2026, domestic tourists can apply for the Ladakh permits online through the official UT Ladakh portal.

Can I visit Stakna and Hemis Monastery on the way to Chumathang?

Yes, both Stakna Monastery (25 km from Leh) and Hemis Monastery (47 km from Leh) fall on the route before you reach Upshi. You can easily visit both monasteries and still reach Chumathang by evening. Plan to spend about 30-45 minutes at each monastery.

What is the best time to visit Chumathang Hot Springs?

The best time to visit is from June to September when the road is reliably open and weather conditions are manageable. The hot springs can be enjoyed any time during the season, but mornings and evenings offer the best experience when the contrast between cold air and hot water is the most striking.

Is the road from Upshi to Chumathang safe for sedans?

The road can be tricky for sedans at some stretches. Landslides, narrow sections with steep drops, and BRO road-widening work can make things challenging. I would recommend a SUV or any high-clearance vehicle for this route. If you are in a sedan, drive cautiously and avoid travelling during or immediately after heavy rains.

Is there mobile network between Upshi and Chumathang?

Mobile connectivity is very limited between Upshi and Chumathang. BSNL postpaid has the best coverage in this area. Jio has improved coverage in recent years but signal drops are common. At Chumathang itself, BSNL usually works. I suggest you download offline maps and inform your family before heading out.

What is the altitude of Chumathang?

Chumathang is located at an altitude of approximately 14,300 feet (about 4,360 meters) above sea level. AMS can be a concern here, especially if you have not acclimatized properly in Leh. Spend at least 2 days in Leh before heading to this region.

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I am Dheeraj Sharma - a traveler, techie, and Himalayan lover. Since 2009, I have been helping thousands of travelers every year plan memorable & budget-friendly trips to the Himalayas - Smartly, Safely, and responsibly. I also run GenAI Unplugged, where I teach AI automation for solopreneurs and small businesses. My free n8n Zero to Hero course covers everything from your first workflow to production-grade AI automation.

28 Comments

  1. Comments section gets closed in 90 days. To ask your travel questions, you can follow my YouTube Channel for a faster reply or for a much slower reply follow me on Instagram. :)

  2. Jawahar Singh on

    Dear Dheeraj,
    Hi & Good Evening.
    I am Jawahar Singh. I am a Police Inspector. Every year in August-September a police party
    which consists of one Police Officer from each state visits Hot Springs of Ladakh dist. in Aksai Chin area on
    Indo-China border to pay tribute to martyrs of Indian Police Forces. This area is generally out
    of bounds for civilians. This year, a party consisting 22 police officers is going and I am one
    of them. I have read your highly informative blogs providing minute details regarding travel to
    Leh Ladakh. I also need your help to get the maximum out of this trip.
    First I’ll tell you our tour programme and then my requirements.
    Tour programme is as under.
    24.08.2012 Report at Chandigarh
    25.08.2012 Leave Chandigarh by road and arrive at Kullu.(Night halt at Kullu)
    26.08.2012 Leave Kullu and arrive at Keylong.(Night halt at Keylong)
    27.08.2012 Leave Keylong and arrive at Sarchu.(Night halt at Sarchu)
    28.08.2012 Leave Sarchu and arrive at Leh.
    29.08.2012 & 30.08.2012 Stay at Leh for acclimatisation.
    31.08.2012 Leave Leh for Hot Springs(Indo-China border) via Pangong Tso and Phobrang.
    Return to Leh latest by 07.09.2012 with a halt at Phobrang during return journey)
    07.09.2012 & 08.09.2012 Halt at Leh
    09.09.2012 Leave Leh and arrive at Keylong.(Night halt at Keylong)
    10.09.2012 Leave Keylong and arrive at Kullu.(Night halt at Kullu)
    11.09.2012 Leave Kullu and arrive at Chandigarh.(Night halt at Chandigarh)
    12.09.2012 Dispersal of officers to their respective states.

    Dear ,
    There is no scope of change at all in the schedule from our side. We will be moving in
    two to three govt. vehicles. All lodging & boarding arrangements have already been done
    by the govt. at all halts.
    I am not sure but i assume that the distance between any two halts is not much. I mean,
    after reaching the next halt we might get at least half a day to stay there. What I want
    to do is that on reaching every halt that is Kullu, Keylong, Sarchu, Leh, Phobrang and
    similarly during the return journey, if possible i want to hire a bike at each halt and explore
    the nearby beautiful places & monstaries worth visiting and worth seeing. Have some b’ful
    photographs and feel the local culture and local life.
    For this, i humbly request you to help/guide me regarding the following points.
    1) Is it possible to get bikes on rent at each of these places.
    2) Kindly give me list of b’ful places worth watching nearby to all these places that could be
    visited keeping in mind the time of halt and also which place to give enough time and
    where to move quickly.
    3) How is the weather there during this time of the year. Do i need extra winter clothing.
    4) Some dos & donts during this journey.
    5) I have heard much about the beauty of Lahaul & Spiti valleys. I am not sure whether our
    journey route passes through these valleys or not. Will it be possible to visit some b’ful
    places of these valleys.
    6) Will it be possible to visit Tso Moriri, Chumathang, Pangong Tso, etc. without a hurry.
    7) I am a first timer. So kindly let me know for which places do i require permits. And is it
    possible to get the permits in advance to save the time?
    8) Can i get to visit the 3 idiots shooting points near the bridge as well as at Pangong. Are
    the waters at Pangong really that blue as shown in 3 idiots?

    I am sorry, I dont know ki kahin maine bahot jyada information to nahi mang li hai.
    Kindly bear with me. You can also send me your reply on my mail id dgpm1947@gmail.com.
    Also if possible can i have ur cell no. plz.
    Waiting for a reply.
    Regards,
    Jawahar Singh.

    • Hello Mr. Jawahar,

      1. No, bikes are only available for rent in Leh.

      2. At all these places there is no certain place defined. There are lots of trails that goes from these places and you can explore any of them depending upon the time left in the day and be back for night stay.

      3. in Ladakh, it generally do not rain much but yes on Manali – Leh Highway before Sarchu at least you might face some hassles of rains otherwise it is all pleasant.

      4. Well, since plan is actually fixed, cannot really say about them 🙂 … You have like 8 days in between and are you going all the way to Askai Chin? Would be awesome for sure… The only thing I feel is you guys should have skipped Sarchu on the way to Leh and would have opted to stay at Sarchu while coming back. It would have negated chances of AMS.

      5. You will be apssing partially through Lahaul Valley (not Spiti Valley) as once you cross Rohtang Pass it isLahaul Valley all the way to Baralacha La Pass and you will be seeing Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal on the way. If you reach early to Keylong may be give try to explore Sissu Waterfall before Keylong.

      6. Not sure, if you have Chumathang and Tso Moriri in plan of 7 days.

      7. Well, if the plan is booked for 7 days and the rest of the days you are in Leh or traveling aorung will not require you any permit. If you are going through Pangong Tso and further to other places inside, then you guys must have arranged the permits.

      8. Yes, if you are going to Pangong Tso, you will see the shooting point and the water is much more beautiful than shown in the pictures 😀 … The bridge comes when you come from Chumathang to Leh.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Jawahar Singh on

        Dear Dheeraj,
        Thanks a lot for your valuable suggestions. While reading your blogs, I feel like I am sitting
        and talking with a local Ladakhi person. You know so much about the route, places, atmosphere
        and everything. Well, Few more queries are there.
        1) While going we’ll have two & a half to three days halt at Leh and while returning we’ll
        have one & a half to two days halt at Leh. During this small halt if I hire a bike, is it
        possible to visit Chumathang Hot Springs and Tso Moriri and be back in time. Or if there
        are any other better suggestions to utilise this time in a better way, kindly suggest.
        2) The permits for Pangong and further will definately be arranged for us by the govt. but,
        do i need any type of permits for above places if i wish to visit these places on my own
        on a bike. And, if the permits are needed, how to get the permit in advance so as to save the
        time later.
        3) Further, by weather I mean to ask what would be approx. temperature around this time of the
        year and do i need any thermal inner wear or some extra winter clothing.
        4) Any other general suggestions or tips from your side.
        5) On Wednesday, 22.08 I will be having one day halt at Chanakyapuri, Delhi and since you also
        stay in Delhi, is it possible to meet or can i have ur cell no. in case i need to talk to you during
        the journey. My mail id is dgpm1947@gmail.com
        Thanks a lot.

        Regards,
        Jawahar.

        • Hello Jawahar,

          Thanks alot 🙂

          1. If you have 1.5-2 days at the end of the trip, then yes, you can hire a bike a day before or early in the morning and you will be able to visit Chumathang and Tso Moriri and be back. It takes two days for this trip.

          2. Yes, you will need permit for Tso Moriri if you wish to visit Tso Moriri. You can ask any hotel guy and they will be able to help you get the permit. You can ask for the permit when you are present in Leh for first few days. It is hardly a 10-15 minutes job if you go prepared and the link here will help you document everything before hand. For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here

          3. Yes, it is better to carry at least a pair or two thermals and a jacket at least. Weather though remains pleasant but when overcast it generally gets cold especially at night.

          4. Just enjoy the local people and culture as well, I am sure you will love it…

          5. I have offs on weekend only so meeting might not be possible, sorry for that but surely I will email you my contact and you can get in touch with me.

          I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  3. Rahul Sinha on

    Great write up and photos Dheeraj and thanks for the tips well arranged on the site.

    We are planning a 12 day trip from Pune to Leh during August using a hired (black plated, yellow numbered) Innova. Do you think we will have issues with the vehicle due to taxi union at Leh? Any idea about the SUV(Scorp?) hire charges at Leh, in case?

    • Hello Rahul,

      Thanks alot buddy for the appreciation, glad you liked the pictures and the blog. With black number plate, they will not create any trouble, so no worries on that front. Still, for the current leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2012-13 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

      Also, you can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travelers including me at the link here: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh.

      For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  4. Reading this makes u feel excited 😉

    Visiting same next month 🙂 hope it will be gr8 fun 🙂

    • Thanks alot Swapnil, I am sure it will be a great trip for you too, stay tuned for other parts of my Ladakh – 2012 journey as well 😉

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  5. Please recommed for a 12 day trip from 1st August where should one start from its an all boys trip

    • Hi Hiren,

      Day 1 | Delhi – Jammu / Patnitop
      — Overnight at Jammu or Patnitop

      Day 2 | Jammu / Patnitop – Srinagar
      — Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
      — If you have time then check out, floating market, Shalimar Garden.
      — Overnight at Srinagar

      Day 3 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
      — Enjoy the vistas enroute
      — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
      — Overnight at Kargil

      Day 4 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
      — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
      — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 5 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
      — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 6 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 7 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 8 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
      — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
      — Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)

      Day 9 | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
      — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 10 | Leh – Taglang La – Moore Plains – Pang – Sarchu
      — Stay overnight at Sarchu

      Day 11 | Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
      — On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
      — Overnight at Manali

      Day 12 | Manali – Delhi
      Day 13 + 14 | Buffer days to be kept incase of road closure due to landslides or snowfall or perhaps you want to enjoy more.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  6. Hi Dheeraj,

    Thanks for relieving those memories of Lamayuru, Hemis and all…. I haven't been there for a long time. Planning to go there soon…

    Sabyasachi

    • Hello Sabyasachi,

      Pleasure is mine and yes, this is the beauty of blogging as it help us relive those moments again and again through varied experiences 🙂 … Let me know whenever you plan for it, if I could be of some help 🙂

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  7. bangalorean on

    Hi,

    We are planning for a visit to LEH during Aug. We are starting from Bangalore on Aug 15 , flight to delhi. Delhi to Manali Volvo bus. What are the options to travel from Manali to leh? We are 4 guys. Is self driven rented car an option? Heard it is a great scenic drive. we want to enjoy the beauty. Please give us ur opinion. Is it possible in taxi?

  8. This sounds like awesome experience. i had a nice time reading about places , i visit, as an armchair traveller.

    Thanks for sharing.

  9. I loved the photographs … so want to go to Laddakh ! May be next year. Thanks for this virtual tour though 🙂

    • Thanks alot Puru, it is the place that makes them beautiful :)… Whenever you go, let me know if I can be of some help with regards to planning a trip to Ladakh 🙂

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  10. Beautiful place. You are lucky to visit these places. I am still dreaming.

    • Hello Rajesh,

      Yes, I consider myself really lucky being visited Ladakh and my urge and love to keep visiting it again and again!! I don't know but somehow I love this place so much that almost my heart beats for it all day long 🙂 … I am sure your dream will be reality soon, may be next year 🙂

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  11. Ok–I did not read all of your post. I focused on things I liked, sorry. I loved that guest house you stayed at. It is cute. And that Thicksay monastery–lovely shots. I wonder how they built it there and that too so beautifully. And the roads–you had a good four wheeler I guess. And that bridge–that must have been amazing. Thanks for sharing Dheeraj!

    • Hi Bhavana,

      Thanks alot. Yes, guest house was pretty decent just that they didn't server the food. And, yes the monasteries are so beautiful placed and this is the wonder of Ladakh. I could not get similar shot for Stakna but that is more interestingly places right on top of a hill. Standing on that bridge (just one step) gave me shivers and I could not take a step ahead hearing the sound of gushing river below which can be seen from gaps in between the steps there but Rigzin went all the way to the middle. Salute his courage!! It was indeed a good experience.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma