The Journey so far…

Day 4 (First Half) | Chumathang – Mahe – Sumdo – Tso Moriri

It was a tough cold night with least amount of sleep and loads of headache but there were no other symptoms of AMS and I was able to sleep about early morning for good couple of hours. When I woke up, there was bright sunshine and the sped of the wind had also gone down. Himanshu and Tejas decided to have a bath in hot spring water where as I opted for an hour’s more sleep. Rigzin came in with some tea and shared his uneasiness at night as well to accompany me… However, thanks to god that we both were fit and fine now :). About 7.30 AM, we were all ready to pack the bags and first go for the breakfast at the dhabha or restaurant of the owner of the guest house. Again the ladies there cooked aaloo + pyaaz mix paranthas for us and we happily gulped them with pickle. I always carry along lots of Toffees, Poppins and Chocolates etc. with me and some of them we distributed to 2-3 children present there who returned us back their beautiful smiles. Making payments and bidding adieus (but forgetting to take the contact number 🙁 ) at around 8.00 AM, we were off to Tso Moriri lake, about 70 KMs from Chumathang and takes about 2.5-3 Hrs to reach…

Heavenly Colors of Tso Moriri Lake…
Colors of Tso Moriri Lake
Chumathang Guest House…
Chumathang Guest House
Chumathang General Store…
Chumathang General Store
Chumathang Restaurant or Dhabha…
Chumathang Restaurant or Dhabha

The plan was to visit Tso Moriri lake, spend sometime there and then head towards Hanle to sleep overnight. We continued along the main road, deep into the valley towards Mahe first where after submitting the permits we had to take right diversion across the famous Mahe bridge towards Sumdo – Tso Moriri (Korzok Village). The main road from Mahe leads you towards Nyoma – Loma – Tsaga – Chusul and ahead… As we moved along the Indus river we saw huge frozen parts still floating into the river and even the Indus was still frozen at many sections. It was treat for us though 🙂 … Finally, at about 8.50 AM we reached Mahe bridge, took couple of shots as Rigzin handed over the permits, distributed few chocolates to the 2 children waiting for some shared taxi/bus to go to Nyoma. We had to go towards Sumdo – Tso Moriri, so we crossed the bridge and entered the narrow valley. Taking picture of Mahe bridge and bridges ahead into the Changthang region is prohibited being sensitive area and one must take care of it. As we moved along a small river/tributary that meets into the Indus river, we saw huge amount of snow still present in the river or on the bed/shores around. Water was almost frozen in its majority of sections and we even came across ice on the roads. All this because this part of the region get hardly any sunlight. It was fun watching such vistas enroute and we soon reached Sumdo Village.

As Barren As It Gets… Chumathang – Mahe…
As Barren As It Gets... Chumathang - Mahe
Curving its way to Tso Moriri… Chumathang – Mahe…
Curving its way to Tso Moriri... Chumathang - Mahe
Frozen Indus River… Chumathang – Mahe…
Frozen Indus River... Chumathang - Mahe...
Indus River at Mahe…
Indus River at Mahe
Sumdo Village… Diversion to Manali – Leh Starts Here…
Sumdo Village... Diversion to Manali - Leh Starts Here...

It is this Sumdo village only from where a path goes via Polakongka La (21 KMs) – Tso Kar (22 KMs) – Moore Plains (22 KMs)  that connects you at Manali – Leh Highway. Clicking the picture and we were back on track again, running alone all the way, making it altogether a different and awesome feeling… Remoteness at its best, Remoteness to remember for a long time!! We reached a Namashang La pass where we stopped for a while, had couple of shots and moved towards Kiagar Tso. It was COLD, VERY VERY COLD out of car… Even taking pictures was very tough. When we reached near Kiagar Tso, I went out to take pictures from different angles that took more time than usual exposing my bare skin to super bone chilling winds.. When I stepped back into the car, my hands started to get numb and the whole face especially the lips, nose and chin were having a pinching sensations 😯 … I immediately too out the hand gloves from the baggage and kept rubbing my face so as to get the pinching sensation go away. Then I kept my exposure to bone chilling winds to minimum. Kiagar Tso was completely frozen but was candy to watch, we took couple of pictures and back again…

Sitting High and Handsome…
Sitting High and Handsome...
A Beautiful View… Towards Tso Moriri…
A Beautiful View... Towards Tso Moriri...
Namashang La Enroute Tso Moriri Lake…
Namashang La Enroute Tso Moriri Lake
Leading the way to Frozen Kiagar Tso Lake…
Leading the way to Frozen Kiagar Tso Lake
Frozen Kiagar Tso Lake…
Frozen Kiagar Tso Lake

Upto now the road conditions were fine but the tarred road ends at Kiagar Tso and after that all you have is a bumpy, dirt track leading you all the way to Tso Moriri… There comes a wide section on the road that almost look alike Moore plains with huge flat lands surrounded by beautiful multi colored mountains… Everything was frozen around, small water crossings, water in the small river running aside and we were praying that we see at least few colors in the beautiful Tso Moriri lake. Soon the eyes lit up as we had first views of Tso Moriri but it looked all frozen… Slowly and steadily on the bumpy road we by passed some temporary houses build by people of Changpa tribe, the nomads of Changthang. They had herd of sheep with them which produce the costly Pashmina shawls… As we approached near the banks of Tso Moriri, we were happy to see at least about 30% of it had melted, enough to let us see some beautiful blue colors of it.

Sheeps that Yields Costliest Wool – Pashmina…
Sheeps that Yields Costliest Wool - Pashmina
Frozen and Barren Way to Tso Moriri Lake…
Frozen and Barren Way to Tso Moriri Lake
A Distant View of Frozen Tso Moriri Lake…
A Distant View of Frozen Tso Moriri Lake
Nomads of Changthang… The Changpas…
Nomads of Changthang... The Changpas...

As mentioned in the Travel Guide blog post, a little background of it as:

Tso Moriri Lake – Ladakh

Tso Moriri lake in Changthang region of Ladakh is one of the most beautiful, calm and sacred (for ladakhis) high altitude lakes in India. In fact, it is the largest high altitude lake in India that is entirely in Indian Territory. This beautiful blue pallet lake is about 7 KM wide at its broadest point and about 19 KM long. Being part of the wetland reserve under Ramsar site, it is actual known as Tsomoriri Wetland Conservation Reserve and one cannot pitch any tents or construct anything near the banks of the lake. It is the highest Ramsar site in the world. A large number of flora and fauna is found in the region. Since, it is very near to the Line of Actual Control, one need to get Inner Line Permit to visit Tso Moriri. You can get more details on Inner Line Permits here: Inner Line Permits for Leh – Ladakh

The beautiful multi shades of blue color offered by this lake along with a picturesque landscape around gives this place an extremely romantic feel and breath-taking feel. However, in actual reality the place is extremely harsh and difficult to survive especially in winters. There is only one cemented accommodation available around the lake and the facilities like electricity, medical aid, hot running water, western toilets etc. are rare to find. The lack of oxygen makes survival difficult if your body is not properly acclimatized to its high altitude and hence, one need to plan his/her journey extremely carefully to make it acute mountain sickness free vacation.

We reached Korzok Village running along side the frozen Tso Moriri where we first handed over the permits at the check post and then continued upto Koarok village monastery. The entire panoramic view from the top was just amazing and we could not hold us back from the feeling of joy. After spending sometime at the top, we started back to the point where the lake was frozen about 30% of the length at the start. There we had an amazing, fun-filled 45 minutes or so, photo session and playtime in the snow which was present all along the shores of Tso Moriri lake. We enjoyed every bit of it before starting back  to Hanle…

Police Checkpost at Tso Moriri Lake…
Police Checkpost at Tso Moriri Lake
Reserved Wetland… Tso Moriri Lake…
Reserved Wetland... Tso Moriri Lake...
Frozen… Tso Moriri Lake As Seen from Korok Monastery…
Frozen... Tso Moriri Lake As Seen from Korok Monastery...
Playing with Snow… Tso Moriri Lake…
Dheeraj Sharma's Friends Playing with Snow... Tso Moriri Lake...
Playing with Snow… Tso Moriri Lake…
Dheeraj Sharma, Playing with Snow... Tso Moriri Lake...
Threesome at Tso Moriri Lake…
Dheeraj Sharma and Friends at Tso Moriri Lake...
Colors of Tso Moriri Lake…
Colors of Tso Moriri Lake
Colors of Tso Moriri Lake…
Colors of Tso Moriri Lake
Colors of Tso Moriri Lake…
Colors of Tso Moriri Lake
Colors of Tso Moriri Lake…
Colors of Tso Moriri Lake
Colors of Tso Moriri Lake…
Colors of Tso Moriri Lake
Colors of Tso Moriri Lake and Our Ride…
Colors of Tso Moriri Lake and Our Ride...

The Journey ahead…


I am Dheeraj Sharma - a traveler, techie, and Himalayan lover. Since 2009, I have been helping thousands of travelers every year plan memorable & budget-friendly trips to the Himalayas - Smartly, Safely, and responsibly.


  1. Comments section gets closed in 90 days. To ask your travel questions, you can follow my YouTube Channel for a faster reply or for a much slower reply follow me on Instagram. :)

  2. Hi Dheeraj,

    The more I read your journey, the more I can not wait to visit Ladakh… Everything is just awesome and creating deeply excitement in my heart… Thank you for sharing & giving sooo many information for us

    And refer to this article, I think it’s the option that u wrote yesterday. Stay at Chumatang before heading to Tso Moriri next day… Right?

    Day 0: Leh all day long
    D1. Leh-Khardung La-Turtuk (stay)
    D2. Turtuk-Nubra-Hunder (stay)
    D3. Hunder-Pangong (stay)
    D4. Pangong-Chumatang or Hanle (stay)
    D5. Chumagtang-Moriri-Leh
    D6. Leh all day long

    My question is:

    1. Where is at Chumatang part that we can stay? Can u suggest some places?

    2. Can we stay in Hanle, instead of Chumatang? Coz I prefer Hanle than Chumatang hehehe…

    3. Will we need to apply any permits to take this route (Pangong-Chumathang or Hanle-Moriri-Leh) ?? Because we are all foreigners, no one is Indian citizen, only the driver, lol

    4. Once again, we can do that Day 5 (Chumatang-Moriri-Leh) right? Coz we must go back to Leh at day 5

    Soooo sorry for disturbing you with all these madness… Your suggestion is meaningful for us.. thank you, Master


    • Hanle, foreigners are not allowed. So, it has to be Chumathang only. And yes, the rest of the plan is good.

      1. Chumathang has just one hot spring guest house, basic place to stay with decent food.
      2. Hanle is not allowed for foreigners.
      3. Yes, you need permits for Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso and tso Moriri.
      4. Yes, leave early from Chumathang, spend sometime at Tso Moriri and leave back to Leh

      • thank you bhai……
        that’s all what I need 🙂

        but it’s soooo sad that we are not allowed to visit hanle :((

        so far we will only enjoy Chumathang & Tso Moriri, but I believe the route will be breathtaking, as I read on your article 🙂

  3. Dear Dheeraj,

    Wanted to ask 1 thing, i am planning a 7days trip to Ladhak and on 8th day mrning will be leavinf for srinagar, on 11th day afternoon i have flight from srinagar already booked. Now as per your advised itenory, 1st & 2nd day in and around leh relaxing. 3rd day Nubra stay, 4th Day Back to leh, 5 Pangong and 6th back. i have a buffer day for 7th day and planing to go to TSO Mori, is it a day visit and in which route it is and what will be the best day to go i mean after Nubra like that as i can shift a day to ladhak and leave on 9th day.
    Also, what type of clothes shall i take for End may trip (22nd May onwards)
    And, i will also suggest to make 1 blog in which the people can actually tell when they are leaving such that they can form a group if they want to as travelling in a group is cheaper option 🙂

    • Hi Virat,

      Tso Moriri cannot be done in single day though you can do Pangong Tso in single day and do 2 day trip to Tso Moriri. howvere, to keep it easy will suggets you take rest on the last day.

      Virat, stay tuned brother I wil be launching the Himalayan Travel Community where there will be dedicated section for people to find like minded travel partners on their trip to Ladakh and other parts of Himalayas. It will take another 8-10 days to go live!! 🙂

      Dheeraj Sharma

  4. Shraddha Rahate on

    helloz Dheeraj sir..I am planning for Leh Ladakh…and while googling I came across to your blog…its simply awesomeeee 🙂 Do you organize Leh Ladakh outing? if you have plans in May/June/July please please let me know…Thanks so much 🙂

    • Hello Shraddha,

      I can help you plan the trip on yourself by sharing all the required info possible or I can refer one of my Destination Sponsor if you are interested in complete tour, who will be able to provide any required services you want for Ladakh tour.

      Well, I generally do not plan any event myself as mostly I travel solo/with family or friends but once a while do post public tours as well on blog’s Facebook page. As of now, no plans for May to July but may be something in September, though nothing certain as of now.


  5. thx man!!!! for giving us all the information……
    just wanted to ask u whether the route from wer the Indian and Chinese bunkers are visible open now?????

  6. Vikas Bhagat on

    Sir, One thing is also important when i leave Leh I have to go to Srinagar

    Thanks so much Sir

  7. Vikas Bhagat on

    Hi Dheeraj ji,
    Sir can u please help me to give Initiary from Manali – Leh tour. As I reach Manali on 17th Aug 2012. Wanna leave Manali on 19th early morning at 03:30 am. I wanna stay for 8 days in Leh, want to explore almost everything there in Leh like Nubra Valley, Tso Pangong, Tso kar, Tso Moriri, etc etc etc…. If possible I can take more 2 Days. Sir please suggest me the right Initiary to explore Leh in its best. Can u also tell where do i get Snow in the month of August.

    • Hello Vikas,

      You can follow the below itinerary in such a case:

      Day 1 | Manali/Solang Valley – Keylong/Jispa
      — It is always better to stay either at Keylong/Jispa so that you do not feel sick or hit by AMS.
      — Avoid sleeping at Sarchu at any cost while going to Leh from Manali because your body will not be acclimatized by the time you reach there.
      — I prefer staying at Jispa more because Keylong gives the feeling of a town while Jispa is more closer to nature having Bhaga river running just aside the Manali – Leh Highway at Jispa.
      — Overnight at Keylong/Jispa

      Day 2 | Keylong/Jispa – Leh
      — Leave Keylong/Jispa early next morning, say by 4/5 AM types, so that you reach Leh in the evening.
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 3 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits (6th August)
      — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
      — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 4 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 5 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 6 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
      — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
      — Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)

      Day 7 | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
      — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 8 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping OR Monastery tour OR you can do tour to Sham Valley
      — Monastery tour may include Hemis, Thicksey, Stakna and Shey monasteries. They come on the route of Pangong Tso but as you will be doing day trip, it will be a bit hectic to include them on that day only.
      — Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu, , Gurudwara Pather Sahib
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 9 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
      — Cover Karzok Monastery
      — Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri

      Day 10 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Moore Plains – Pang / Sarchu
      — Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
      — Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

      Day 11 | Leh – Lamayuru – Kargil
      — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
      — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
      — Overnight at Kargil

      Day 12 | Kargil – Drass – Zozi La – Sonamarg – Srinagar
      — Enjoy the vistas enroute
      — Have late drunch meal at Sonamarg
      — Overnight at Srinagar

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Dheeraj Sharma

  8. Sanjeev chauhan on

    Hi dheeraj,

    Is it possible to go from leh to pangong and then from pangong to tso-moriri and then to manali:


    If possible, then can you tell the distance between these points.

    Sanjeev chauhan

      • Sanjeev chauhan on

        thanks dheeraj. I checked the link mentioned by you.
        I am interested in the below routes. Can you please comment whether these routes are doable on bike. Also can you mention the approx travelling distance for each of these routes.

        1) Pangong Tso (Spangmik) – Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma – Mahe – Sumdo – Kiagar Tso – Tso Moriri (Korzok)

        2) Nubra Valley – Agham – Wari La – Shakti – Chang La – Durbuk – Tangste – Pangong Tso (Lukung)

        3) Nubra Valley – Agham – Shyok Village – Durbuk – Tangste – Pangong Tso (Lukung)
        4) Leh – Khardung La – Nubra Valley – Leh

        Sanjeev Chauhan

        • Hi Sanjeev,

          I will send you the maps for the same with distances. Please mail me if I forget 🙂 … Just to tell you that, permits for Changthang i.e. Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri are not been issued by DC office. Hence, do not rely on them.


  9. Awesome. A pleasure to read and peer at the lovely photographs.

    Thanks a lot for sharing.

    • Thanks alot Uma, Ladakh indeed is a beautiful place and pictures themselves become amazing as you click them in that heaven 🙂

      Dheeraj Sharma

    • thanks alot Samaresh bhai!! I feel you just surely go and visit Ladakh, and I can bet you will go again and again 😉 …


  10. What would have been the height of the place where your nose, chin went numb?

    • It was about 4400 Mtrs (about 14.5 K feet). The problem was the cold wind that was blowing, I have never experienced such cold wind before, so it is necessary to carry proper clothing with you when traveling Ladakh in off – season. Lesson Learnt 🙂


  11. As usual, your photos are amazing. And the descriptions are quite insightful.

    Besides, toffees & candies, I also carry some sketch pen sets & drawing books to give to kids. Actually they are so far off that everything and anything we take for them is much appreciated.

    Hats off to you, for bringing this guide to us. 🙂

    • Hi Nisha,

      Thanks alot. O yes, this time I could not carry them along but usually does take them, saw children using them as lipsticks rather for actual purpose on my Spiti trip 😉 … So, though it would be better to distribute eateries this time. You are one of the inspiration for me in this aspect 🙂 …

      Thanks again!!


  12. Sir please I m eagerly waiting for ur reply my tour depends on ur suggestion.

    I took decision to visit hanle after reading ur article! Please suggest is it safe to go alone over bike there!,otherwise I will have to hire four wheeler which is costly affair.

    Sir eagerly waiting for ur reply since last two ddays but my comments are not appearing here

    With thanks and regards

    Swapnil k


    • Guess, I have replied it. Please also check your spam folder of email box as you would b getting the emails for all the replies 🙂 … This is what I replied earlier "The permits to Man – Merak – Chusul route are still not being given by DC office in Leh, so keep your fingers crossed and hope for the best if they start issuing the permits. Otherwise, you have to take the traditional routes only. In case, you get them then you do need to carry spare fuel with you as their is no fuel pump available in between after Karu and even black petrol/diesel, you might get in either Tangste or Chumathang but very unlikely anywhere in between." Since, you are alone I will not suggest you to visit this isolated route, even if you get the permits, unless you are too much into solo rides and adventure.

      Dheeraj Sharma

  13. Hi Dheeraj, yes thats true, i confirmed it from DC office leh. I also need your help regarding my tour plan as follows

    Day 1: Arrive at Leh : from 6th sept to 17th sept.

    Day 2 : Leh local sightseeing:

    visit Shey Palace, Thiksey Monastery, Shanti Stupa, Sankar Gompa, Leh Palace, Hemis Monastery, Stok Palace Museum & the markets.

    Day 3 : Leh –Nubra Valley.

    sightseeing of Sumoor area and Samstaling Gompa,

    Day 4 : Nubra Valley

    Deskit , Hundar, Turtuk.

    Day 5 : Nubra Valley – Leh


    Day 6 : Leh-Pangong Lake

    Day 7 : Pangong-Man-Merak-Chushul-Tsaga la-Tasaga-Loma-Hanle

    Day 8 Hanle-Chamthang-Tso Moriri

    Day9 Tsomoriri-Tsokar-Taglangla-Leh

    Day 10 : Leh – Lamayuru-Uleytoko.

    Lunar landscapes, Lamayuru monastery , Basgo castle , Rezdong monastery

    Day 11 : Uleytoko-Leh.

    visit Alchi monastery , Likir monastry, Sangam (confluence of Indus & Zanskar Rivers), Magnetic Point, Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, Kali Mata (Temple of Guardians in Spituk monastery) & Hall of Fame.

    Day 12 : Departure Leh

    should i stick to this plan and keep close watch on the situation as my travelling date is not too close.

    • Hi Himadri,

      Most probably the restriction might last the whole season, but again nothing is certain. do have a backup plan with you and in such a case skip the Uleytopko and make two day trip to Tso Moriri via traditional route via Chumathang.

      Dheeraj sharma

  14. Hi Dheeraj, I came to know that Govt. stop providing permit of pangong-hanle-tsomoriri route, is it true.Do u have any information regarding that.

    • Hello Himadri,

      As of now, I guess yes they had stopped giving the permits because some idiots crossed the permitted areas, so to avoid any fuss they were not issuing permits for in last few weeks AFAI got the news. I have no updated information if DC office has resumed the permits or not.

      Dheeraj Sharma

      • thank u so much 🙂

        Is there any way from sarchu to padum? Want to cover zanskar valley also, if not then can I hire bike for zanskar from kargil?

        Also waiting for ur hanle journey post 🙂


        Swapnil k

        • Nopes, swapnil, there is neither way from Sarchu to Padum as of now (as road from Darcha is still not completely done to Zanskar) nor you can hire bikes from Kargil for Zanskar 🙁 …

          Every article gets published weekly every Monday morning :), so stay tuned for some great vistas of Changthang – Hanle…

          Dheeraj Sharma

  15. Himadri Biswas on

    Hi Dheeraj, I came to know that govt. stop giving permit for pangong-Hanle-Tsomoriri route, is it true.Do u have any information regarding that.

  16. Amazing photography and post too 🙂

    Liked a lot.I m going in July thus less chances of getting ice on the bank of lake! 🙁

    First photo is really awesome.

    Sir just want to know 1 thing. My route will be

    Pangong-spangmik-man-merak-chusul-hanle rest

    Hanle- tsomoriri- tso kar rest

    Then back to leh

    If going on bike how to manage for fuel?

    Is there any patrol pump like near chumthang over this route?

    Thanks for ur reply


    Swapnil k.

    Back to leh

    • Hi Swapnil,

      The permits to Man – Merak – Chusul route are still not being given by DC office in Leh, so keep your fingers crossed and hope for the best if they start issuing the permits. Otherwise, you have to take the traditional routes only. In case, you get them then you do need to carry spare fuel with you as their is no fuel pump available in between after Karu and even black petrol/diesel, you might get in either Tangste or Chumathang but very unlikely anywhere in between.

      Dheeraj sharma

      • Thank u sir,

        Finally after reading your all posts & from your valuable feedback I made my solo journey route. Please guide if you want any small correction. Thanks again 🙂

        17th july – Delhi to Srinagar flight & rest

        18th July – Depart for Kargil with any shared vehicle & rest there.

        19th July – Hire 4-wheeler for Zanskar valley

        20th July – Padum/Zanskar rest

        21st July – Back to Kargil & rest

        22nd July – Depart for Leh with four wheeler visit sham valley on the way. Rest in Leh.

        23rd July – Permit/Bike hiring & other sight scene

        in Leh.

        24th July – Depart for Diskit over bike, Nubra valley & rest.

        25th July – Visit Nubra whatever left. Depart for Pangong via shyok.Rest at Spangmik.

        26th July – Want to spend full day at pangong.

        27th July – Back to leh visiting monasteries on the way. Rest at Leh.

        28th July – Tank full with fuel & Depart for Tsomoriri rest at Karzok.

        29th July – Day for Tsomoriri/Tso Kar/Chumthang rest.

        30th July – Back to Leh.

        31st July – Depart for Srinagar rest at Kargil

        1st July – Rest in Srinagar.

        2nd July – Fly back to Culcutta from srinagar flight at 13:30 hr.

        As I will be alone & going there for the first time(main motive is photography ;))Please suggest route so that I can manage my journey within stipulated time.

        I will miss Hanle 🙁

        Better will cover next time.

        With lots & lots of thanks

        Swapnil K

        • Hi Swapnil,

          The plan looks good now and I think you will have a wonderful time. You might not be able to do Shyok route, then be ready to follow the traditional rooute.


      • Sir one more thing to ask as u said I may not permission for man-merak-chusul-loma-hanle route but can I go for hanle via mahe-nyoma-loma-hanle route then coming back to tsomoriri via saisala-charchangan la-karzok

        • Hi Swapnil,

          You can check with DC office if they are issuing permits for Hanle, Chumur, Loma, Nyoma or not. If they are issuing permits for Hanle, Chumur, Loma, Nyoma then yes, you can. But, I doubt if they will be issuing. Try to request the ADC in person telling her about the passion for photography and link it with some noble charity cause. May be you get the permission. Do no take words of clerk, even if he says not possible ask him you just want to try and request her in person.

          Dheeraj Sharma

      • Sir, one more thing to ask….. as u said i may not get permission for man-merak-chushul-hanle route but can i visit hanle via chumthang-nyoma-loma-hanle route then coming back to Tsomoriri via salsal-la-charchangla-korzok…….?


        Swapnil K

      • Many more thanks for ur quick and wonderful replies:-)

        Will definitely gonna enjoy heaven 😉



  17. Amazing photography and post too 🙂

    Liked a lot.I m going in July thus less chances of getting ice on the bank of lake! 🙁

    First photo is really awesome.

    Sir just want to know 1 thing. My route will be

    Pangong-spangmik-man-merak-chusul-hanle rest

    Hanle- tsomoriri- tso kar rest

    Then back to leh

    If going on bike how


    Back to leh

  18. Amazing photography and post too 🙂

    Liked a lot.I m going in July thus less chances of getting ice on the bank of lake! 🙁

    First photo is really awesome.

    Sir just want to know 1 thing. My route will be

    Pangong-spangmik-man-merak-chusul-hanle rest

    Hanle- tsomoriri- tso kar rest

    Back to leh

  19. Please let me inform about the possibilities of getting permit of route Pangong tso-Hanle-Tsomoriri during the month of September (6th-17th)2012.

  20. SANDEEP PANWAR jatde on

    भेड वाले फोटो में अगर काली भेड ना होती तो बाकी भेड आसानी से दिखाई नहीं देती,

    दोस्तों की गद्दारी से हम यहाँ जाने से रह गए थे, मार्ग में बर्फबारी के कारण चांगला पहुँच कर हमने उनका इन्तजार किया लेकिन वे अपनी बाइक सड़क पर छोड़ किसी के साथ सूमो में चले गए और जाते जाते हमारा परमिट भी ले गए, जिस कारण हम अपनी बाइक आगे नहीं ले जा पाए,

    • Sahi mein Sandeep bhai, ye bhedd kafi door thi aur lens change karne ka time nhn tha, mujhe khudd hi abhi realize hua un kaali bhedd ki importance ka 🙂 …
      Aur, bahut hi dukh ki baat hai ki un dosto ne aisa kiya vo bhi aisi jagah par jahan anjaan log aapki madad k liye pata nhn kya kya kar dete hain aur yahn to sirf saath chalna hi tha 🙁 … koi nhn agali baar solo trip mein saara safar kar lena… Mujhe hamesha se Tso Moriri zada achi lagti hai Pangong Tso se, next time dekhte hain kahan jata hu 🙂

      Dheeraj Sharma