In the most welcoming news in 2021, Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permits are not required for domestic tourists to travel anywhere in Ladakh including Hanle, Umling La Pass, Marsimik La, or even Demchok or Chumur. You only need to pay the environment/green/ecology fee and carry a receipt of the payment. 

Video: Step-by-Step Guide: Pay Leh Ladakh Environment Fee Online | Apply Leh Ladakh Permits Online

Do I need any permits in Ladakh in 2024?

Indians do not need any permits anymore in Ladakh for regular sightseeing. You just need to pay the Ladakh Environment Fee on the website and carry the receipt of it. Here is the link where you need to pay it: https://www.lahdclehpermit.in/register-as-domestic 

Current Ladakh environment fees are broken down as follows: 

  1. Environment Fee = Rs 400 one time per year
  2. Wildlife Fee/Something = Rs 20 per day per person
  3. Red Cross Fund Fee = Rs 50 one time per year but optional. You don’t need to pay if you don’t want to pay this fee.

DO NOT confuse the environment fee receipt with the Ladakh inner line permit. You just need to carry the fee payment receipt, hard copy, or soft copy. This receipt may be checked at some checkposts. Hence, people are confusing it with the permit. But this is just verification that you have paid the Ladakh environment fees.

Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permits History

In June 2017, Ladakh Inner Line Permits were made available online from the official website of the Leh Ladakh administration. It was a piece of very welcoming news for all the people planning their trip to Leh Ladakh. This step helped all those tourists who travel to Ladakh during holidays and found the Leh DC office closed during those days to get the permits to travel to tourist spots.

Tourists can apply for the Leh Ladakh permits online, choose a tour operator to pay the fee, and get their copies of the Ladakh permit online. This step has eased the process and eliminated the hassles of procuring these permits in advance. Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permits are available online for both domestic tourists as well as foreigners.

Back in 2014, the concept of Inner Line Permits for domestic Indian tourists was waived. It meant all Indians traveling to the Inner Line region of Ladakh, including Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, and Tso Moriri, were exempted from the need for Inner Line permits. Domestic tourists just require a self-declaration form when visiting these places, and that will act as a permit for them.

However:

The decision was reverted back in 2017 to the original requirements of having permits. In April 2017, authorities in Leh Ladakh reverted the decision and re-introduced the Environment Fee of Rs 300, the Red Cross Fund fee of Rs 100, and Inner Line Permits for domestic tourists as well. Now all tourists, foreigners, and Indians, visiting the Inner Line region of Leh Ladakh need these permits to visit Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, and Tso Moriri. 

Foreigners need a Protected Area Permit to visit tourist places in Ladakh which is different from Inner Line Permits needed by domestic tourists.

What are the permits required for Leh Ladakh trip?

Process for Ladakh Environment Fee Online or Ladakh Inner Line Permits Online

In this article, let’s look at the step-by-step process to obtain Ladakh Inner Line permits online or in advance of your Ladakh trip. This will help you a lot in planning the trip to Ladakh smoothly. I will also discuss in detail the manual steps required to apply for the inner line permits.

Ladakh Inner Line Permits (ILP) are required for Indian Tourists, but foreigners require Ladakh Protected Area Permits (PAP). Tourists need these permits in Ladakh to visit the inner line places like Nubra Valley, Khardung La, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Dah, Hanu Villages, Man, Merak, Nyoma, Loma Bend, Turtuk, Tyakshi, Chusul, Hanle, Digger La, Tangyar (for trekking only).

You do not need any permits to travel on Manali Leh Highway or Srinagar Leh Highway or Zanskar Valley.

The permits for Hanle and direct route from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri from Chusul can only be applied manually or in person at Leh DC office.

These permits are not required for residents of J&K state and children below the age of 12 years. They can visit the inner line region in Ladakh by showing/carrying a valid Photo Id proof.

Both Protected Area Permits (PAP) and Inner Line Permits (ILP) are available online from the official website www.lahdclehpermit.in of Leh administration. All tourists can go through the website to obtain the inner line permits.

You need to pay an Environment fee of Rs 300, Red Cross Fund fee of Rs 100, and an inner line permit fee of Rs 20 per day per person to get these permits. You need to provide a valid photo ID proof to apply for these Inner Line Permits in Ladakh. You can pay the fee for the Inner Line Permits when you choose the option of the tour operator and pay them the required fee after applying for the permit.

Ladakh Inner Line Permits Available Online
Ladakh Inner Line Permits Online Circular
Video – How to get Ladakh inner line permits online?

Step-by-Step Process to Apply for Online Ladakh Permits / Online Ladakh Environment Fee

Below steps need to be followed to apply for the permits

  1. Click on the “Apply for Permits -> Domestic Clients” button on the center bottom of the screen. It will take you to the first step of providing the details of the Domestic Tourist applying for the permits.
  2. On this page, you need to enter your details including Name, State, Gender, Id Type, Id Number, and Home Address.
  3. Apart from that, you need to choose if you are applying directly or through an agent. You should choose to apply directly because with the agent option; you have to get in touch with the agent to get your permit processed.
  4. Lastly, you need to enter the Arrival Date when you are arriving in Leh and start exploring inner line areas of Ladakh. Then, you click on Submit.
  5. When you click on submit, it will take you to the screen with two options “Click here to issue an individual permit” and “Click here to issue group permit.”
  6. If you are applying for the permit alone, you need to click on the Individual permit option else if you are in a group, choose the group option and add details of other users on the next screen.
  7. Once, choose the respective option (and fill group details in case of group option), you will go to the next screen where you need to select among the circuits which you plan to visit in Ladakh, and a reference number will be present on the page.
  8. PLEASE NOTE the reference number and save it somewhere as it will be required to Print the permit whenever you need it.
  9. Select the required circuits as per your itinerary of the Ladakh trip. As you cannot reissue the permits, so choose all the circuits at once when applying for the permits. The below table will help you select the relevant circuits based on your Leh Ladakh trip plan.
  10. Finally, enter the Start Date and End date of the permit which will define the total fee for your permits.
  11. Click on Apply for Permits button which will take you to the confirmation page that tells you about the selected circuit details with dates of the permits.
  12. You need to click on the Proceed button to generate your permit. Print a few copies of this permit. Download the sample online permit for reference purposes only.
  13. The permit has your total inner line permit fee that includes Environment fee (Rs 300 per person one time), Red cross fund fee (Rs 100 per person one time), and wildlife fee (Rs 20 per person per day).
  14. You can choose to click on the Pay Now option to pay the permit fee online using a Credit or Debit Card via Jammu & Kashmir Bank online portal. You can pay the Permit Fees online using all major Credit/Debit cards and Net Banking of all major banks.
    On successful payment processing, a receipt will be generated; each transaction you can identify by a unique identifier known as Collection ID. The payer is required to take printouts of Permit Receipt and Easy Collect Transaction Receipt. SMS and Email will be sent to payer confirming receipt of payment.
  15. However, you have to visit the Leh DC Office or Tourist Information Center for verification of your permits and get them stamped. So, if you do not want to pay online, then visit the Leh DC office or Leh TIC office. And there, you can pay the permit fee while getting the verification done for your permits.
  16. You can use the reference number to reprint your permit from the Homepage menu options again.
  17. You cannot apply online for Hanle permits and Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri direct route. Either you have to follow the manual process defined below and apply for those permits in person at Leh DC office. Or you can also take these printouts to Leh DC office, and they will be able to put Hanle permit stamp on these online permits too.

Step 1 – Ladakh Inner Line Permit Online Application

Step 1 - Ladakh Inner Line Permit Online Application

Step 2 – Ladakh Inner Line Permit Online Application

Step 2 - Ladakh Inner Line Permit Online Application

Step 3 – Ladakh Inner Line Permit Online Application

Step 3 - Ladakh Inner Line Permit Online Application

ILP – Online Permit

ILP - Online Permit

Pay Online for Ladakh Inner Line Permit

Pay Online for Ladakh Inner Line Permit

Ladakh Inner Line Permits Circuits – What to choose

1Khalsi, Domkhar, Skurbuchan, Hanu, Baima, Dha in Khalsi Sub-Division.Select this one Dah Hanu
2Khardong, Khalsar, Trith up to Warsi and Yarma Gonbo, Disket, Hunder, Turtuk, Pachathang, Tyakshi in Nubra Sub-Division.Select this one for Nubra Valley including Turtuk, Tyakshi
3Upshi, TsomoRiRi/Korzok in Nyoma Sub-Division.Select this one for Tso Moriri
4Upshi, Dipling, Puga, TsomoRiRi/Korzok in Nyoma Sub-Division.Select this one for Tso Moriri and Tso Kar
5Kharu, Changla, Durbuk, Tangtse, Lukhung, Spangmik, Man-merag(Pangong Lake) in Nyoma Sub-Division.Select this one for Pangong Tso
6Upshi, Chumathang, Mahe, Loma Bend in Nyoma Division.Select this one for going to Loma
7Leh-Kharu-Changla-Durbuk-Tangtse-Lukung-Spangmik-Man Merak (pangong) upto Chushul and Loma Bend.Select this one for Chusul & Loma Bend
8Tangtse-Kargyam-Sato, Barma, Chushul.Select this one for Chusul

Pro Travel Tip: Apply for Ladakh Inner Line Permits online when your date is finalized. As the process now is online, the photo ID card number gets stored in the database and same proof cannot be used for next 15 days to get the permits. So, if you change the permit date after applying, you need to use a different ID for it else system will not allow it. 
The entire inner liner permit area is divided into 8 regions and you have to select the desired ones very carefully. Better get the region information first and then apply for it.

Step by Step Process for Ladakh Environment Fee or Inner Line Permits in Person / Offline at Leh DC Office

If you are planning to apply for these permits in person or offline, then you can apply them at Tourist Information Center (TIC) Office, Opposite J&K Bank, Main Market, Leh or you can also apply for Inner Line Permits at Leh DC Office.

The TIC office is open on all working days (Monday to Saturday) from 09:00 AM to 07.00 PM. The timing of the Leh DC office is 10.00 AM to 5.00 PM (as told to us by the clerk there but not confirmed as I didn’t see it written), but they generally do not accept applications after 3 PM, I guess. So, you should reach the Leh DC office before 2 PM. Best will be to reach at around 10.15 AM to find the least rush and much hassle-free process.

The stories of Srinagar Leh Highway
The stories of Srinagar Leh Highway
Is Leh DC office open on Saturday and Sunday?

Leh DC office is closed on Sundays and other national holidays. Hence, you should plan your Leh Ladakh trip such that your Leh local sightseeing day does not start with Sunday or a holiday. Having said that, I have heard that DC office is sometimes open on Sunday for half-day as well but I will say don’t count on it. If that is the case, best it to apply the Ladakh inner line permits online or get the arranged in advance through some travel agent.

Manual or Offline permit application is required mainly for Hanle or Chusul routes. Rest for regular tourist destinations you can apply online

Below are some steps that you can follow for applying for Ladakh Inner Line Permits in person at the DC office in Leh.

  • You need to fill the permit application form to get the approval for your inner line permits. So, carry a pen with you, if filling directly in Leh DC office.
  • The permits cost you Rs 300 for environment fee, Rs 20 per day per person for the permit. There is a fee of Rs 100 which is charged per tourist one time towards the Red Cross Fund. There is a special fee for the students, which is one time only Rs 20. You need to show/attach the i-card, I think, with the permit copy.
  • You need to have photocopies of a valid nationality Photo-ID proof (Passport, Driving License, Aadhar, Voters ID, PAN card, etc.) which proves your identity. Although the photocopies were not checked for attestation for us, I feel one should not take any chance with it and get them attested before venturing to Leh Ladakh.
  • You can apply the permits for your entire group, but you need to attach the photocopy of photo-id cards (nationality proof) for each member in the group and make sure to fill the required details of all group members in the permit application form.
  • Anyone who has yours or your group’s photocopies of valid Photo-IDs, he/she can get the inner line permits on your behalf as well. Usually, the hotels in the Leh town does provide this facility if you are OK with sharing the photocopies of your nationality proof’s Photo-IDs with them either via Email or Fax.
  • The permit approval process may take anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 hours. Hence it’s always nice that you reach early morning at the Leh DC office. Sometimes, when there is a rush of tourists, the permits are issued in two batches viz. morning and evening. Hence, try to be in for early morning batch so that you have some time to partially head towards one of the destinations of your plan or do it at ease and consider Leh local sightseeing as a side option for the day.
  • The application forms required to apply for the inner line permits are mostly available at the Photostat shops nearby (one is just behind Leh DC office). You can also download the inner line permit application form for Leh – Ladakh from the following download link as well: Inner Line Permit Form and Application Letter (Page 2).
  • Usually, the form remains the same so filling the attached form at home and completing the documentation including required photocopies can save a lot of trouble running to-fro from Photostat shops.
  • In the application form, for each member, you need to mention the name with parent/guardian name, complete permanent address, the name of all the places you need to visit, and the specific dates or date range for which you want these permits. At last, in the copy information section, you may mention the hotel name plus address you stayed or are staying in Leh.
  • You need to write Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, and Tso Moriri to cover all three major tourist spots in Ladakh. Writing Nubra Valley covers all the places in Nubra Valley, including Khardung La and Turtuk. However, writing Turtuk as well will not harm.
  • Besides permit application form, you need to write a request application letter addressing DC of Leh – Ladakh district for the approval of your permits.
  • In the inner line permit application, you need to express your interest in visiting the places you wish to travel along with the dates you would be visiting these places on your Leh – Ladakh trip.
  • Both the application form and this request letter should be in sync with each other for places, names, and dates. You can download the unfilled request application from the following download link: Inner Line Permit Form and Application Letter (Page 3).
  • Once, you complete filling the permit application form and writing the request application to accompany it, you make two-three photocopies of the entire set consisting of Application Form, Approval Request Application Letter, Photo – IDs of all the members requesting for the permits.
  • When the photocopies of the required set of documents are ready then you need to submit them at the DC office along with the original copies of the form and request application.
  • The clerk will ask you to deposit the fees for required permits (amount will depend on the number of days and number of members in the group) + red cross fund fees (Rs 10 per member) + Environment Fess (Rs 400 per member).
  • Once you deposit the fee, the clerk will put the stamp on the permits. In a few instances or special cases, the clerk may ask you to either get signed approval from the ADC room yourself, or he/she will place your documents in the ongoing batch for further approval. Of course, in the latter case, you will need to wait for the approved permits to arrive which usually takes some time about 1-3 Hrs.
  • Once, you get the stamped approved permits you need to go back to the photostat shop again to make photocopies of the approved permits.
  • These photocopies of the approved permits are submitted at every check post that comes up on the way to your sightseeing destinations in Ladakh, including Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, and Tso Moriri. Hence, you should make at least ten copies of them if you are staying long enough in this heaven.
  • The the validity of the inner line permits is three weeks for Indians and one week for foreigners. However, there is no limit on the number of times you enter a place in the valid period provided you have the permits with you for that place.
  • Although not required; you may carry the passport size photographs as well. I believe, on all your trips, you should carry the passport-sized photographs with you as none knows when you need one. Did you check my comprehensive list of things to carry on a Ladakh trip?
Shanti Stupa - Glittering in the evening
Hanle Village – The Hidden Gems of Ladakh

Inner Line Permits for Hanle

Yes, you can get the permit to travel to Hanle village by applying them to the DC office in Leh. There will be an additional stamp that they will put on the permit copies that will authorize you to travel to Hanle beyond the Loma check-post. Otherwise, the army will send you back from the Loma check-post.

Inner Line Permits for Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri direct route from Chusul

Yes, you can get the permit to travel on the direct route from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri that passes through Chusul village. The permit can only be applied in person at Leh DC office.

There will be an additional stamp that they will put on the permit copies that will authorize you to travel beyond Chusul check-post. Otherwise, the army will send you back from Chusul or Man Merak village check-post.

Inner Line Permits for Umling La Pass

No permit is available for traveling to Umling La pass and civilians are not allowed to travel to Umling La Pass. Some people traveled to it in the past

In 2017, BRO has built and opened the world’s highest road over Umlingla pass or Umling La connecting Chisumle and Demchok villages. Umling La pass is at an altitude of 5,883 Mtrs or 19,300 Feet. It is about 105 KMs from Hanle Village and about 235 KMs from Leh.

Other important things about permits for Hanle & Chusul

In order to get the permits for Hanle and Changthang or to travel from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri directly via Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma route, you need to mention all the places on the route so that you are not sent back from any check-post. These places are Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma (for Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri) and Hanle (if plan to visit Hanle too). The permits for inner Changthang & Hanle are issued only to Indian Nationals, not for foreign tourists.

Permits for Hanle & Chusul route are always issued subject to the present political or border situation. Sometimes, Leh DC office may not even issue the permits for Hanle and Chusul route. 

Even after getting the permits for Hanle and Chusul route with the extra stamp, do not consider it as 100% approval that you will be allowed to these places. Army guys have sent back many tourists since 2011, even having permits based on the actual political and border security situation. So, unless you pass the Chusul check-post or Loma check-post to the other side, there is no guarantee that you will not be returned in between on these routes.

One more thing that sometimes photography equipment is not allowed beyond Loma towards Hanle. So, in case you have cameras, then please pack them in bags and refrain yourself from taking pictures on the route of sensitive areas in Ladakh.

Here are the sample permits issued and stamped by the Tourist Information Center

Notice the stamp for Hanle permit at top & Pangong - Chusul Route
Notice the stamp for Hanle permit at top & Pangong – Chusul Route 
Nubra Valley Permit Stamp
Nubra Valley Permit Stamp
Tso Moriri Permit Stamp
Tso Moriri Permit Stamp

Best or Quick Approach to get Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permits

The best way to approach the processing of Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permits is to first download the application form. Completely fill the form and attach the photocopies of the photo ID nationality proofs with it for all members of the group.

Write a request application letter addressing Leh Ladakh DC expressing your intent to visit the desired places and request the issuing of inner line permits to you for the desired duration. If you are in a group, you can write the names of all the members on the group and attach copies of their photo id nationality proofs.

Staple the bundle including completely filled inner line permit application form, request application letter you will write for approval and the photocopies of photo id nationality proofs from home only.

Then, once you reach Leh, go to Leh DC office and submit the bundle along with the required fees. Get the permit stamped from the Leh DC Office. In case of permits for Hanle and Chusul, make sure you get the required stamps for these places. Otherwise, you will be sent back by the army from the midway.

On the way back to the hotel or sightseeing ahead, get 8-10 photocopies of the permits issued to you. You need to submit these photocopies of the permits at the check posts while going to Nubra, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Hanle, etc.

This will save a lot of time and energy for you in Leh. Otherwise, you will need to keep running up and down to photocopy shop for one thing or the other. Even to get the inner line permit form, you will need to go to the nearest photocopy shop, and all this will surely kill time and exert you in Leh.

Although highly unlikely, the worst-case scenario would be that the DC office changes the attached format of the inner line permit application form and refuse to take up the old version of it. 😥 Even, in that case, you will just need to fill the new form and attach the documents with it before submission.

Shanti Stupa - Glittering in the evening
Shanti Stupa – Glittering in the evening

Conclusion

I hope this article will help you get the required details on applying for the Inner Line Permits for Ladakh online as well as in person. As Ladakh Inner Line Permits are available online now, it will save a lot of hassles of moving around in Leh in the first few days from one shop to another to DC office.

Have a travel question?? You can subscribe to my YouTube channel and leave a comment to ask your travel questions on traveling to the Himalayas.

You are also not required to worry about any holidays or odd timings of reaching Leh and then applying for the permits in person at Leh DC office.

In case you find this article useful, feel free to share it with your family & friends who are looking out for a trip to Ladakh in this season. And if you have any further questions or doubts, in planning your trip to Leh Ladakh, please post them in the comments section of this article below.

Again at the end, to download the application form for Leh – Ladakh inner line permit you can click the following download link Ladakh Inner Line Permit Form and Application Letter

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I am Dheeraj Sharma - a traveler, techie, and Himalayan lover. Since 2009, I have been helping thousands of travelers every year plan memorable & budget-friendly trips to the Himalayas - Smartly, Safely, and responsibly.

1,147 Comments

  1. Comments section gets closed in 90 days. To ask your travel questions, you can follow my YouTube Channel for a faster reply or for a much slower reply follow me on Instagram. :)

  2. Dear Dheeraj!

    Firstly, your site has been such an amazing place in help planning our Leh trip!

    I am from Bangladesh and was hoping to take a peek at Nubra Valley and visit Pangong Lake. Is ILP something that Bangladeshi’s still require in 2017 to visit these places? If so, what is the current procedure for this?

    I am sorry if this question has been already answered but I couldn’t find it anywhere and hence asked here 🙁

    • Sami, Bangladesh citizen need special permit from MHA Delhi to visit Inner Line areas of LAdakh and for the last 5 years or so, I haven’t come across anyone who got that permission or may be they never cared to share up here 🙂 … So, ILP is only applicable for Indian Citizens, Protected Area Permit PAP is valid for Foreigners. Permit for citizens of Pakistan, China, Afghanistan, Bangladesh and Burma are issued by the Ministry of Home Affairs (MHA) and permits for those people who are on diplomatic or official VISA are issued by the Ministry of External Affairs (MEA) in Delhi.

  3. smita kariwadekar on

    Hi Dhiraj..need your expert opinion/ views/suggestions for ladakh sight seeing itinerary in august 2017, I am planning to do stok kangri in the first week of august. the dates are 5th aug to 14th august for the trek from leh to leh. i want to club this with ladakh sight seeing, especially from the perspective that if i do some sight seeing before the trek, it will help me acclimatize better. at the same time, i do not want to tire myself by doing all the sight seeing before the trek. So in short, I feel that i should split the sight seeing into two parts viz before and after the trek. Considering this scenario, could you please suggest me some good itinerary. Since, will be in ladakh around 15th august, would also love to spend 15th aug at either leh war memorial or karlgil. Please share your views on the best possible itinerary so that i could cover all major sight seeing places in ladakh.

    • smita kariwadekar on

      btw, sorry I have posted my queries on a wrong thread. hope thats fine for you to reply 🙂

        • Smita Kariwadekar on

          Yes..Thanks a ton for the valuable piece of input you have shared. Shall modify the itinerary considering the same..Thanks again.
          Btw..Any suggestions on some good n economical places to stay? I will scout for the information in your other blogs anyway..But just in case if I miss on any good inputs, would like to hear from you. Sorry if it’s too much of a trouble..:) TIA

        • You can check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh (Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri) including moderate (cheap budget hotels as well) in the series of articles starting on the link here

    • Hi Smita,

      I feel you should first do a local sightseeing around Leh and Sham Valley including Alchi, Likir, Basgo, Magnetic Hills on the second day.Then start the trek and after the trek you may travel to Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso. How many days before 5th and after 14th you have for sightseeing in Ladakh.

      • Smita Kariwadekar on

        Thanks Dhiraj for your prompt reply. Posting below the tentative plan we have chalked out as of now. Please share your views on the same.
        Tentative plan
        29th our respective places to Srinagar via Flight
        29th stay in srinagar near dal lake
        30th July Srinagar to Kargil via road
        31st Kargil to Leh
        1st Leh to Nubra Valley via Khardungala and stay overnight at Nubra valley
        2nd Nubra to Pangong via Shyok route and stay overnight at Pangong
        3rd Pangong to Tsomoriri via Chushul route and stay overnight at Tsomoriri
        4th Tsomoriri to Leh and stay overnight at Leh
        5th is reporting day for Trek in Leh City
        For us it is rest day
        If we want we can spend one day in Leh also after reaching Leh from Kargil and come back from Tsomoriri to Leh on 5th Aug and report straight for the trek

        Thanks in advance. 🙂

        • Hi Smita,

          You will be tired with the above journey without much rest day. Also, it is highly recommended that you do acclimatization in Leh for one day before making journey to Khardung La and beyond. Better follow it else it might end up scaring you with AMS and jeopardising the entire trip including trek. Better skip Tso Moriri part and visit Nubra and Pangong Tso only after one day rest in Leh.

  4. Hi Dow
    This would be my second visit to Leh and I would be doing in Dha-Hanu area by the end of May 2012017 along with PANGONG Tso.

    1. Will I require ILP to visit Dha-Hanu area?
    2. Will the road to PANGONG Tso be open by MAY end ?

    • Chukhu, no permit is required for Dah – Hanu in case you are traveling from Leh side. Road to Pangong Tso will be open as it remains open even in winter months too. All depends upon weather during that particular day. IN case it is very harsh and with heavy snowfall, then BRO may not allow the passage on that day.

  5. Sumit kumar Kabra on

    Dheeraj ji
    One tour operators gave me this itenery & quoted 29k for 2 ppl without leh stay. plz tell is this a good bargain & correct itenery

    Pick up from airport 2 day local sightseeing 3day nubra 4day back to leh 5day pangong 6day back to leh 7day local sightseeing magnetic hill/ gurduwara pathar sahid/ sangam, zanskar confluence and 8day departure to airport

  6. Sumit kumar Kabra on

    Dear Dheeraj as written earlier I have planned my visit to leh going first time. Wd reach leh on 19thapril morning and wd depart on 26th april.
    Kindly give me itenery for the tour which all places to visit. I wd be hitting a bike in leh so do & don’ts for it too.

    Thx

    • Hi Sumit,

      Bike ride will only be possible for local places around Leh and may be up to Lamayuru/Sham Valley which ever you will opt for. This is because the conditions of high mountain passes are very slippery and army do not allow bikes to ply on those roads as any mishap can be fatal at that altitude. So, please avoid at any cost. You can roam around Leh.

      I am suggesting a plan below of 6 days. You can add Turtuk in it while in Nubra Valley as a day trip from Deskit since you have 7 days in hand.

      Day 1 | Delhi – Leh (By Flight)
      — Checkin at Hotel. Many hotels provide free pick and drop from Airport. Ask while you book them.
      — Take ample of rest as well as water or anything that keep your body hydrated enough. DO NOT OVER HYDRATE. Take ORS Soluted water or ORS – L tetra packs from home.
      — Do not over exert your body at any cost. Avoid too much up-down on stairs or avoid it in entirety, if possible.
      — After 5-6 Hrs of rest you can visit Leh Palace, Local Leh market, Shankar Gompa .
      — If you feel exerted go back to Hotel, have dinner at Hotel and take rest. Avoid any exertion. Else continue and,
      — Follow the sunset by stroll at Changspa road and have a nice dinner on varied cuisines offered in-around Changspa road.
      — Go back to hotel for overnight stay at Leh.
       
      Day 2 | Leh Local Sightseeing + Acclimatization
      — Hire a taxi from Leh taxi stand or Hotel whichever suits you.
      — Bargain hard with taxi driver. Book that single taxi for entire trip after explaining the complete plan.
      — Take his inputs if you feel reasonable and if required modify the plan accordingly but should suits you best.
      — Ask him to be with you guys starting first day itself, if required and charged reasonable else do it at your own.
      — Again DO NOT over exert and take little steps and slow walks only.
      — If feeling OK then do Local sightseeing. To know the about the places to visit check the link: Travel Guide for Local Sightseeing of Leh Town in Ladakh
      — Do not use stairs at any of these places just to see them as it will exert your body much more.
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 3 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 4 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 5 | Leh – Pangong Tso – Leh
      — Do not plan to stay overnight at Pangong Tso as you will not be acclimatized and may fall sick. So, make a day trip only.
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 6 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping OR Monastery tour OR Sham Valley tour OR Fly back home
      — Overnight at Leh
      — Monastery tour may include Hemis, Thicksey and Shey monasteries. They come on the route of Pangong Tso but as you will be doing day trip, it will be a bit hectic to include them on that day only.
      — Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu, Gurudwara Pather Sahib

      • Sumit kumar Kabra on

        Thx Dheeraj for information. I have seen pics ppl traveling to khardung la on bike so we can also go on bike, if not reasons plz.

        Sd we opt for share taxi for other places if not why.
        Asking u as it’s our first visit to laddakh.

        Thx

        • Hi Sumit,

          It is not that bikes are not allowed to be taken to Khardung La. What I am trying to tell you is, that during the winter months when snow is present on roads and hard ice makes it very slippery conditions at high altitude passes like Khardung La and Chang La, army does not allow people to take bikes for the safety of the riders. Once the summers comes in and black ice is not present on the road, then bikes start plying on such routes. Hence, in April you can only use bikes for local sightseeing around Leh or up to Sham valley for your own safety.

          Again getting a shared taxi could be difficult due to lack of number of tourists in off season of April. In case you find people who are tourists you can go ahead and share the taxi with them. However, in local taxi you will just do destination to destination without any stops in between where you would have liked to stop the car and take few pictures.

  7. Sari Troha on

    Enjoyed reading through this, very good stuff, thankyou . “Hereafter, in a better world than this, I shall desire more love and knowledge of you.” by William Shakespeare.

  8. Arth Patel on

    I want to go to the Hanle with my dslr is there any way to talk out of it? As i read in some of your post that they take the camera at Loma post. Any permission or extra fees for cameras?

      • Arth Patel on

        I have plan for my trip in ladakh..
        Day 1: Delhi to pathankot
        Day2: pathankot to patnitop
        Day3:patnitop to srinagar/sonamarg
        Day 4: srinagar/sonamarg to kargil
        Day 5:kargil to leh
        Day 6:leh local sightseeing
        Day 7:leh to hunder
        Day 8: hunder to pangong
        Day 9:pangong to leh
        Day 10:leh to hanle
        Day 11:hanle to tso moriri
        Day 12: tso morir to Sarchu
        Day 13:sarchu to manali
        Day 14:Manali to delhi
        Day 15:just in case something happens in between(buffer day)

        Is it feasible to do all this in trip? What do you suggest i should include or exclude? What route shiuld i take for hunder to pangong? Anything you want to suggest? Thank you!

        • Arth, your plan is very well balanced. You should take a call after reaching Nubra Valley. If vehicles are traveling up and running on Agham – Shyok route, you can take that route else take Wari La route. Also, both the routes should only be taken in case you have couple of vehicles in a convoy. If not then wait at Agham village to join a group of vehicles.

        • Arth Patel on

          Ohk Thank you and yes I’ll be riding with my group! Thank you for help 🙂

  9. Hi Dheeraj, we’re planning a Ladakh trip on May last/ early June 2017 from Kerala on our bikes..the rough plan in Ladakh area is like Leh-Khardung La-Nubra-Shyok-Pangong-Marsimik La-Chushul-Loma-Hanley-Chumur-Tso Moriri…I understand Marsimik La, Chushul, Hanley & Chumur needs ILP.
    So, would it be okay if I mention the places like “Lukung-Pobrang-Marsimik La-Man-Merak-Chushul-Tsaga-Loma-Rhongo-Hanley-Salsal La-Chumur-Charchang La-Tso Moriri-Sumdo-Mahe-Nyoma-Loma” in the application form???
    I’ve added Sumdo-Mahe-Nyoma-Loma part, because I saw it a bit difficult to get the Chumur permit..so, if they reject the Chumur part, I’ll be able to reach Tso Moriri via Nyoma-Mahe-Sumdo, right??Or Should I apply with a separate form without the ‘Salsal La-Chumur-Charchang La’ part if in case they’re not gonna give the permit for Chumur?

    Thanks a lot in advance 🙂
    Joe

    • Hello Joe,

      You do not need to mention Lukung, Pobrang, Man, Merak, Rhongo, Chanchagan La, Sumdo, Mahe, Nyoma. Rest all places you should mention. Adding Chumur may result in denial of permit, so be sure. To reach Tso Moriri, you do not need to go to Chumur. There is a slip road just after you cross Salsal La which takes you to Tso Moriri. Better have a good story as towards the other end of that road army will stop you for whereabouts and why you took this route.

      • Thank you Dheeraj for the reply 🙂
        One last query :)..so, if I mention like “Marsimik La-Chushul-Tsaga-Loma-Hanley-Salsal La-La-Tso Moriri” that will do the permit part? If they reject the application, should I ready with another form with “Marsimik La-Chushul-Tsaga-Loma-Hanley-Nyoma-Mahe-Sumdo” or should I include these places (Nyoma-Mahe-Sumdo) in the first form with Salsal La ( “Marsimik La-Chushul-Tsaga-Loma-Hanley-Salsal La-La-Tso Moriri & Nyoma-Mahe-Sumdo) so, even if they reject the Salsal La route, I can use the Mahe route?
        thank you

        • Yes, that will do for the permit part. No need for the other one. At max. what they can do is strike through Salsal La. No need to include Nyoma, Mahe, Sumdo. They dont need any permits. Salsal La is very remote route thats the only thing I will say about it. Rest you should be able to manage it.

        • Hi Dheeraj, Does Kahrdung La, Nubra valley and Pangong need a permit now?

        • Yes Joe, the permits are back again from this year. You have to get the permit from DC office in Leh and pay Rs 400 as environment fee

        • Hi Dheeraj bhai, we’re planning to cover Nubra, Pangong, Marsimik La,Tso Moriri during our trip..As the permits are back for even Indian Citizen, a bit confused about filling the ILP application form.. Would it be enough if I mention the places like – “Nubra Valley-Shyok-Pangong Tso-Marsimik La-Chushul-Tsaga-Loma-Hanley-Salsal La-Nyoma-Mahe-Sumdo-Tso Moriri” ? Should I include anymore places?
          Thanks..

        • Joe, you will need to mention: Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Marsimik La, Chushul, Tsaga, Loma, Hanley, Salsal La, Nyoma, Tso Moriri. If you are not going to Marsimik La and not following the direct route between Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri or Hanle then just mention Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri

  10. i would like to share my story about bike rental in Leh too.

    we got cheated by the rental company.

    i want to share my experience i hope this won’t happen to other travelers.

  11. i just back from kashmir & Ladakh trip. For non-indian, you can get the permit at any travel agent. DC office no longer issue the permit. Only travel agent can help.

    Few things need highlight here:

    1) Each travel agent give you different price. So, pls do survey to get better price. i found some ask for around 1000 rupee. The lowest i found is 650 rupee including processing fee.

    2) if you travel alone, a bit difficult to apply the permit. most of the travel agent refuse to do because they may be have less customer and you the only one apply the permit. So, you have to put more afford do survey around Leh. i travelled with 2 friends, so a bit easy to apply the permit.

    3) You only have 7 days permit

    we were planning to go to Nubrah valley, but after we reached check point, the officer took our permit and not allow us to go to nubrah valley due to heavy snow. We only managed to go up to Khardung La. Only taxi and car can go to Nubrah valley if heavy snow. we rented a bike.

    • yeeenn, thank you so much for the valuable updates. These will be very useful to all other planning the trip to Ladakh. I am surprised to come to know that DC office is no longer issuing the permits. Did you go to DC office and someone in DC office confirmed or did anyone else tell you about the same?

      • Hi, Thanks for respond. Yes we went to DC office. They told us, they no longer issue the permit and then we went to tourism office near post office in Leh to validate, the answer is the same.

        You only can get the inner line permit from travel agent. Pls do survey 1st. Each travel agent give you different price. This is very important.

        i would like to share my Ladakh experience here. There’s many good and bad stories. Can you tell me which platform should i write to share to public or readers here?

        • Thank you so much yeeenn. I will surely add all these points to the articles.

          It will be grateful if you can share your experience with all of us. Yes, you can write it in our DwD Community forum and this link will help you: How to Write a Travel Tale or Topic with Attached Images

  12. Iam a bike riding freak now posted in Delhi, this september begining i planned a trip to Leh via srinagar, and started by evening 5 pm from my delhi home, and reached srinagar by 9 am, but due to curfew the road was blocked till evening 5, then i reached sonamarg for night halt and started to early morning to leh and reached by 2pm in Leh, thought of going further a bit and halted for night halt in a tented accomodation, and started early morning and reached non stop to delhi by early morning.

    • Gunasekar, I am glad you have made it in one piece to your family and by god’s grace nothing happened. You should be grateful to god.

  13. Snehdeep Bahadure on

    Hello Dheeraj,
    Firstly kudos to your efforts for the in-depth knowledge you have gained and keep no margin to share.
    We friends have planned a trip from Pune to Leh and ahead. We wish to cover Marsimik La. As I understand it needs special permit. Also being an Indian citizen I understand that we do not need any permit for Khardungla, Diskit, Nubra, Shyok, Pangong, Kargil, & Dras.
    Sorry but I am bit confused to which all permits are needed. So the basic queries as below.
    1. Is permit (ILP) needed for anything mentioned above except Marsimik La? If yes, direct link please.
    2. Which permit is needed for Marsimik La? (Direct link for form download please).

    Thanks and God Bless.

      • Snehdeep Bahadure on

        Hello Dheeraj,
        Thanks for the timely revert & details and sorry couldn’t respond on time.

        Today morning I got an update from Leh DC Office that there had been some mis-happening between tourists and ITBP/Military Post enroute Marsmik La. Due to this DC Office had taken a strick stand that no one would hence forth get any permit for Marsmik La.

        This is very disappointing news for us. Can you please help in validating the news also if true, is there any way out or special permit that can be arranged. Also if you have any contacts who could help us in the same would be really appreciated.

        Thanks & God Bless.

        • No, there will not be any way out. If army has decided not to allow permits then even if DC office will issue the permit they might not allow you to pass the checkpost. Same thing happened past few years when some idiots created ruckus on Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri route from Chusul. Army stopped allowing tourists on that route and since then only this year they allowed most of tourists else it was a lucky day kind of thing.

          Since, the update to you is from DC office, there cannot be more updated news than that.

  14. Hi dheeraj, your write ups are extremely useful.

    We are planning for a trip from delhi to leh via shimla – kazza- loser after jispa was planning to stay in Thukje or punga hot springs. later travel to chushul and via merak to leh, later towrds diskut and partapur on two wheelers on month of September.
    is there any petrol station after Jispa( i think its 400km till chushul) any petrol station near merak

    do we need to reach leh and travel back to pangong and chushul

  15. Sharon Ong on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    I am a foreign national and was just reading about the relaxation of PAP requirements for certain areas of travel within Ladakh. I am planning to cover Lamayuru and Pangong Tso whilst in Leh – is it true then that I would not need a PAP to visit these two places?

    Thanks a billion,
    Sharon

  16. Rohan Kadolkar on

    Hello,

    There are 2 forms available here.
    Which is the one that can be used?

  17. Md. Ershadul Kader Faruki on

    Dear Dheeraj,

    As I can see that no Bangladeshi citizen has ever get “in line permit” to restricted areas of “Ladakh”. Can you please suggest an itinerary for a small group of Bangladeshi citizen for 10 days trip from Srinagar-Leh-Srinagar including at least 2 days stay at each point. Or Srinagar-Leh-Manali with places to visit avoiding restricted areas.

    Thank you in advance.

    Regards,

    Faruki

    • Rahul Sinha on

      Hi Dheeraj,

      We are planning to make a trip to Leh ( 13-28 Aug). We will be renting bikes from Delhi. I just wanted to know the procedure for permits.
      1> Are permits compulsory for bikes?
      2> If yes , Can we get the permits online?
      3> Do we need to be physically present to get the permits.
      4> Since all of the bikes will be rented bikes, which all documents do we need to get the permit.
      5> If the permits need to be made once we are in Manali, How much does does this entire process take?
      6> Lastly, What are the documents needed to get a hasslefree permit.

      • Hey Rahul,

        Please find the answers below:

        1. YEs, you need permits from going from Manali side to Rohtang Pass.
        2. No, permits will be available in person from SDM office in Manali. Pnly permits upto Rohtang Pass are issued online not going beyond it.
        3. Not really, you need RC, PUC and DL to get the permits.
        4. No matter what documents you carry, you have to rent Leh bikes once you reach Leh to do sightseeing in entire Ladakh
        5. If you reach the office in time, hardly takes about 20-30 mins.
        6. Answered above.

  18. Sanjeet Gupte on

    Hello Dheeraj,

    We are travelling from Chandigarh to Manali and then to Leh, we are seeing multiple route options from Chandigarh to Manali and even different views and suggestion for choosing the route

    Can you please suggest which is the best route to travel from Chandigarh to Manali with good road conditions and minimum traffic.

    Regards,

    Sanjeet

    • Sanjeet, best is that you stick to Manali – Bilaspur – Sunder nagar route as it is shorter though do have traffic of trucks and bad roads of about 15-20 KMs. But it is shorter. However, the other route which goes from Una – Bhota – Jahu – Mandi is a longer route by about 60 KMs, devoid of traffic, very good roads mostly. Time taken by both routes is almost same and at times Manali – Bilaspur is faster.

  19. Abhay Gaikwad on

    Hi Dheeraj,
    Next week, me and 4 of my friends( all Indian nationals) are planning to travel on rented bikes from manali to leh via rohtang pass( 1 night stay in sarchu). Then we will cover pangong lake, khardung la and nubra valley in 4 days.
    Please inform me about the permits that will be required to complete this journey.

    Regards,
    Abhay

    • Asif Khan on

      Hi Dheeraj, I have been to Leh (followed your advise and entered from Srinagar side and left from Manali). I found that though ILP is not required for Indians but declaration of all travelers on a form is still required and the form (2 copies) needs to be submitted at two of the check posts. Not sure if they will allow to pass without the formality of this form. I got the the photocopy of this from one of the travel agent in Leh main market for Rs. 5.

      • Yes Asif, it is just a form for noting down how many people passed, who they were and when. It is available for download too and one can take the copies themselves. Sorry for not being explicit about it, will mention for others in future. But, earlier permit was to be procured from DC office in Leh.

  20. Hi Dheeraj,

    I just wanted to ask if zoomcars are allowed in Leh Ladakh, or are these also counted as taxi’s.

    Travelling from Srinagar to Leh and returning via Manali.

  21. Abu Shid Polash on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    I am from Bangladesh. And Next month July’16 i plan to visit Ladakh. Every thing is confirm. Pls can u confirm me that is Bangladeshi citizen are not allowed for visiting Nubra & Pangong? Pls Hurry I don’t have enough time.
    If any person know about this matter pls let me know.
    My E-mail – polash.pns@gmail.com

    Thanks
    Polash

    • Yes, you need to get permits from MEA, Delhi in order to visit Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso. So far, havent met anyone who got the permits in time AFAIK.

  22. Hello Dheeraj, Am just adding an extra question here. We 2 people on RE 350 & RE 500 bikes. Planning to travel from following route – Leh > Khardung La > Diskit > Hundar > Nubra Valley > Panamik Hot Springs > Then via Wari La > Sakti > Chang La > Pangong Tso > Man > Merak > Chusul War Memorial > Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma Tso Moriri > then via Puga > Tso Kar > Pang > Sarchu.

    1) Please advise number of Petrol Pumps available on this route.
    2) How is the stay accommodation in these areas.

    Note – As I understand I need to get ILP fro Leh as we are travelling via Chusul area. (Not visiting Hanle)

    Cheers..

  23. Hi, I’m on a solo trip to Ladakh, I will be riding to Tso Moriri from Leh and was wondering If i get the ILP will I be able to head to Hanle without much hassle at Army check posts? Are they particular about depositing camera at check post?

    Thanks in advance!

    • Ram, things have eased out. You should have permit and you can travel to Hanle. Do keep in mind about the amount of fuel you will need to carry to undertake the complete trip including Tso Moriri

      • Thanks Dheeraj, yeah fuel is another concern. I have a RE standard 350 that does not give great mileage. Tank capacity 13 plus jerry can 10 ltrs. I am wondering how I should plan Tso Moriri, Tso kar, Hanle and head back to Karu. Looks like I have to skip Hanle unfortunately.

        • Unless you plan to carry extra fuel with you, it is difficult to do Hanle trip. You can try to rely on fuel available in hanle but there will be no assurance.

      • Hello Dheeraj, Am just adding an extra question here. We 2 people on RE 350 & RE 500 bikes. Planning to travel from following route – Leh > Khardung La > Diskit > Hundar > Nubra Valley > Panamik Hot Springs > Then via Wari La > Sakti > Chang La > Pangong Tso > Man > Merak > Chusul War Memorial > Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma Tso Moriri > then via Puga > Tso Kar > Pang > Sarchu.

        1) Please advise number of Petrol Pumps available on this route.
        2) How is the stay accommodation in these areas.

        Note – As I understand I need to get ILP fro Leh as we are travelling via Chusul area. (Not visiting Hanle)

        Cheers..

  24. hello sir
    my name is sanjeev i m planning to go ladakh with my enfield 350 cc , my bike is registered on my brothers name and Original RC is not issued till now but i have the registration papers and RTO paper that they use to give.
    Can you suggest with theis documents would i be able to visit pangong lake.

    thanks regards
    sanjeev

  25. Deepak rathore on

    Hello sir,
    I just want to know, how bad is the road conditions from spangmik-man-merak-kaltse-chushul- tsa ga- loma to hanle. I have 4×2 high ground clearance mahindra tuv 300, is this safe for me to take my vehicle on that road. We are planning to go in july second week.

  26. Pawan Tiwari on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Is there any chance that Army ppl will send us back if we go hanle from leh via Mahe, Nyoma,Loma –with leh DC permit ?
    and
    I do not need any permit to visit Tso Moriri from leh . correct?

    • Pawan, there is always 50:50 chance of it happening that you will be sent back from Chusul post. Last year they were lenient, wish this year too. Yes, if you do Tso Moriri from Leh via Chumathang, no permit is required.

      • But if we visit hanle from leh via mahe, noyma ,Loma I suppose we don’t need to visit chusul ..so in such case do we face rejection from army ..too at any check post

  27. Hi dheeraj,

    We are planning for road trip to Leh via Chandigarh by private taxi. We are planning to hire taxi from Manali. Can you please confirm if Manali taxi will go to panong lake, nubra valley directly or we will need take the permit or else pay extra 10k or 20 k to visit these places. If I approach travel agent will they change our vehicles as outside vehicles are not allowed? Please confirm which approach should we use – book a cab and go or consider a travel agent so no issue of permit and all . Really confused 🙁

    • No Sneha, only Ladakh taxis can do sightseeing in Ladakh. You will get a taxi from Manali to drop you at Leh and then you need to hire a Ladakh based taxi for rest of the trip. For the leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2016 – 17 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 12-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

  28. Hi Dheeraj
    We are a group of 9 planning to travel from Delhi to Leh in 2nd week of May.
    Delhi -manali-leh- srinagar then fly back.
    Wanted to know if we could go from Manali to Leh via Tso Moriri and Pangong Tso. What would be the best mode of transport tempo traveler or cars and how much would it roughly cost respectively? ( kindly share any useful contact)
    Also can we use the vehicle hired in manali for going around in Leh+ nubra then Leh to srinagar or is it good for only drop till Leh?

    • Monisha, there is less chance that Manali – Leh Highway will open by second week of May, it appears from reports that it might open around third or start of fourth week of May. Taxi from Manali to Srinagar with all three tourists spots in Ladakh cost around 60K

  29. Varunsharma8686 on

    Dear Dheeraj

    Do inner line permits are required for cyclist as well? My driver will accompany me on Honda shine 125 cc. The bike is registered on my wife’s name. Will there be any issue or marriage certificate should work. Is 125 cc bike ok. I will be on cycle starting from peo.
    If I divert from morah plains toward tso kar and then follow route of tso moriri, mahe Loma, tsaga la chushul, khaltse, Marek, spangmik, will I need permit in this case as well

    Kind regards
    Varun

    • Permits are required for every person in case you are going to a place where permit is required. Vehicle does not matter. Yes, as long as you can prove the relation by some document and it is apparent that bike is not rented one, it should be fine. Yes, you wil neeed permit for this route. Better first go to Leh and from there do it from Nubra side.

  30. Pritam Saha on

    Hello,
    We are planning to visit Leh during this Hemis Festival, July 2016.
    We are 4/5 members in a group, and we are planning to travel through a rented vehicle. The places in our list are Shanti Stupa, Hemis Monastery, Turtuk Village via Khardung-la Pass, Changla Pass, Nubra valley, Shey Monastery, Confluence of Indus & Zanskar river etc.
    We all have valid photo ID of Indian nationals.
    Do we need to obtain any additional permit for the said route, to travel in a rented vehicle?
    Please let us know asap.
    Thank you.

  31. Sanjeet Gupte on

    Hello Dheeraj,

    We are travelling from Manali to Leh by Rented Zoom Car Self drive XUV. Is there any permit require to travel from Manali to Leh Via Rohtang Pass. If Yes then
    1. What is the procedure to get the permit.
    2. Whether it is available online
    3. Where we can get the permit.
    4. Also we will be returning via same route so is return permit different.
    5. Timings to get the permit.

    Will be grateful if you can share the above information

    Regards,

    Sanjeet

  32. Hi,
    I (Singaporean) will b visiting Leh together with my husband (Indian national) in august 2016.We will be riding and will not be engaging any tour agent for our trip. I am reading from various sources with regards to permit to roam around in leh and will need your help clarifying some matter.

    I would like to confirm that in order for me to visit nubravalley, turtuk, pangong tso, tso moriri, I will need to apply Protected/Restricted area permit as per MHA. I somehow cannot find any information with regards to Protected/Restricted area permit but Inner Line Permit in the above writeup. I may have got confused n may be wrong but please clarify and help me on this.

    no foreigner except a citizen of Bhutan can enter or stay in the protected areas of
    the State without obtaining a permit from the Ministry of Home Affairs and District
    Magistrate, Leh. However, groups consisting of two or more persons sponsored by a
    recognized travel agent and to be accompanied by an authorized representative of a
    recognized travel agent who would act as the escort to the group, with a pre-drawn
    itinerary, can be allowed to visit the following places on identified tour circuits by the
    Ministry of Home Affairs and District Magistrate, Leh

    In the above source I have read on some other website, does this mean that permit cannot be granted to me unless I follow a tour group?

    Also, just to confirm, Hanle will be impossible for me to visit right?

    Thank you!

      • Hi dheeraj,

        Thanks for the prompt reply! How can I miss this thread lol. Looks like u always got an answer for everything. Superb.

        Will look into the online permit application nearer to date once I applied for visa for India as well.

        Will also be posting up my itinerary soon on another thread
        for my trip in August for ur kind review .

        Thanks.

      • Just another question, my husband is an Indian passport holder but is now working in Singapore and residing here. Does he require a ILP since he is an NRI ?

        • If he is an OCI Holder, then he has to follow the same process to get PAP (Protected Area PErmit) otherwise he requires ILP not PAP

  33. Sanjeet Gupte on

    HI Dheeraj,

    We are 4 of us travelling from Chandigarh to Leh by XUV self drive.

    Just need to know can we use the same vehicle to travel in Ladakh like Pangong Lake, Nibru Valley etc. or we need hire a local vehicle from Leh.

    Regards,

    Sanjeet

    • Hello Sanjeet,

      If the car is under any of your name or your family member name and private car, then you can use it anywhere in Ladakh. It cannot be a rented car or taxi.

  34. Hemant Binani on

    Dear Sir
    Please advice

    Day 1: New Delhi to Katra
    Day 2: Katra Local & Vaishno Devi
    Day 3: Katra to Srinagar
    Day 4: Srinagar to Kargil
    Day 5: Kargil to LEH
    Day 6: Leh Rest Day & Local Sight Seeing
    Day 7: Leh to Nubra Valley/ Diskit
    Day 8: Diskit to Pangong Tso/ Lukung
    Day 9: Lukung to Pang via Tso Kar
    Day 10: Pang to Sissu
    Day 11: Sissu to Manali
    Day 12: Manali to New Delhi

    • Hi Hemant,

      1. Lukung to Pang via Tso Kar will be too much to do in one day.
      2. Regarding Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso route, in order to take Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso via Shyok village, you need not need any permits. However, with such a small distance it appears tempting to be done BUT just to analyze the difficulty I will strongly suggest that you read:Trip Report | Nubra – Shyok Village – Pangong Tso Route. The report is from couple of year back in June & in July/August, most likely the route is washed away. Similar, reports are there from last year as well. So better confirm first, analyze the high risk involved and then only attempt it or better avoid it unless very much sure.

      Next possible way is to attempt Wari La route, which is also a bit desolated but doable enough. If your driver agrees to travel on this route then take the Wari La route to Pangong Tso. Remember that any help required on both these routes will be HARD to find in miles of distance. If you have couple of vehicles then only take this route otherwise best is to avoid it.

  35. Maria Jimenez on

    hi,

    I have a foreigner friend who didnt plan properly and is now going to be in Leh only for 2 days.

    She has paid a lot for the flight tickets so its not possible to cancel the trip or change the dates.

    Could you help us by providing an itinerary for just 2 days? Shell reach in the morning on 24th of March and will go back to delhi 26th Morning.

    Also if she needs a permit can she get it before she reaches leh so she doesnt waste any time?

    Thank you

    • Maria, well, the key to any Ladakh trip is acclimatization which she/he will need for at least 36 Hrs after reaching Leh that makes 2 days for your friend. Ideally, apart from Leh and may be surrounding monasteries like in Sham Valley or Hemis, Thicksey, nothing can be explored.

  36. Dear Dheeraj,
    You are doing great service to all us travellers by answering our queries. I am a RE biker and have been to Leh via the Royal Enfield group trips. Now, in June 2016, my brother and I are planning another bike trip. Our route is – Del-Parwanoo-Narkanda-Kalpa-Kaza-Keylong-Sarchu-Leh-Khardung La-Nubra Valley-Leh-Kargil-Srinagar. In light of the recent circular as given above on ILPs, do we need an ILP on any of these routes? Our bikes are registered in our names and we are Indian nationals with valid IDs.
    Thanks,
    RRG

    • No Rishi, you do not need any permits. I will suggest you something like below plan:

      Day 1 | Chandigarh/Ambala – Narkanda – Sarahan
      Day 2 | Sarahan – Rakcham/Sangla/Chitkul
      Day 3 | Rakcham/Sangla/Chitkul – Nako – Geyu Mummy – Tabo
      Day 4 | Tabo – Dhangkar – Dhangkar Lake – Pin Valley – Kaza
      Day 5 | Kaza Rest and Local Sightseeing
      — Ki, Kibber, Gette, Tashigang
      Day 6 | Kaza – Hikkim, Komik, Langza circuit – Kaza
      Day 7 | Kaza – Sissu / Keylong, leave early in the day
      Day 8 | Keylong/Jispa – Leh
      — Leave Keylong/Jispa early next morning, say by 4/5 AM types, so that you reach Leh in the evening.
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 9 | Leh Local Sightseeing + Acclimatization
      — To know the about the places to visit check the link: Travel Guide for Local Sightseeing of Leh Town in Ladakh
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 10 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 11 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 12 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
      — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
      — Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)

      Day 13 | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
      — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 14 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
      — Cover Karzok Monastery
      — Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri
       
      Day 15 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Taglang La – Upshi – Leh
      — Come back via Tso Kar and Manali – Leh Highway to Leh
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 16 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 17 | Leh – Lamayuru – Kargil
      — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
      — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
      — Overnight at Kargil

      Day 18 | Kargil – Drass – Zozi La – Sonamarg – Srinagar
      — Enjoy the vistas enroute
      — Have late drunch meal at Sonamarg
      — Overnight at Srinagar

      Day 19 | Srinagar – Jammu
      — Overnight at Jammu

      Day 20 | Jammu – Ambala – Delhi
      — Back Home

      • Dear Dheeraj,
        Many thanks. Can you please look at this plan and advise:

        Day 1 Gurgaon to Parwanoo
        Day 2 Parwanoo to Narkanda
        Day 3 Narkanda to Kalpa
        Day 4 Kalpa to Kaza
        Day 5 Kaza to Sarchu (??)
        Day 6 Sarchu to Leh
        Day 7 Leh Town
        Day 8 Leh to Hunder
        Day 9 Hunder to Leh
        Day 10 Leh to Pangong
        Day 11 Pangong to Leh
        Day 12 Leh to Kargil
        Day 13 Kargil to Sonamarg/Srinagar
        Day 14 Srinagar
        Day 15 Srinagar to Amritsar
        Day 16 Amritsar to Patiala
        Day 17 Patiala to Delhi

        A specific question: last time i covered Kaza-Keylong in one day and then Keylong-Sarchu the next day. Can I do Kaza-Sarchu in one day?

        Thanks

        • Rishi, Kaza to Sarchu is way too long to be done in a day. Kaza to Keylong is possible and then Keylong to Leh also is possible. However, doing the journey like this is mostly like being just on road, eating and almost sleeping too. It is quite a hectic plan. Better relax some days in Spiti to ease it out

        • Dear Dheeraj, thank you for your response. Will do as you suggested. Also, please help with another query – can we do Leh-Pangong-Leh in one day? I did it last time in two days with overnight stay at Pangong and I know it is 340+ kms. Do you advise it?

        • Yes Rishi, since the roads are quite better you can for sure try Leh – Pangong Tso – Leh in one days, many people short on time do it and is possible due to good roads in most of the journey.

        • Alternatively, if we don’t want to come back to Leh from Pangong and go directly to Kargil from there, is that an option?

        • Better will be to make a trip to Pangong Tso in a day as i is in opposite direction of Kargil and you will have to come to Leh in anycase to move to Kargil

        • Dear Dheeraj, many thanks. One more query. We are going to do Leh-Pangong Tso and stay overnight. I believe that we dont need ILP for that.
          Next day, can we do Pangong Tso to Rezang La War Memorial at Hanle and then return to Leh? Do we need ILP for that? What is the suggested route? Thanks.

        • Yes, Rishi, you need permit for that route beyond Spangmik towards Chusul. Hanle is far off from Rezang La. Rest I answered in other reply. Please refer DoW Maps of Ladakh for better understanding of this region

      • Can I do Leh-Pangong on Day 1 and stay overnight and next day, use following route:
        Spangmik-Man-Merak-Chushul-Rezang La and return to Leh via Harong-Tangste-Karu? do I need ILP for this route? This seems shortest at 270kms. Please advise.

        • Rishi, you can do so BUT the problem is that Rezang La – Chusul route will take about 4 Hrs of ride due to no existent road but from the Erath – Harong route, you may run faster. Rest once you are at Tangste, you will follow the same route to Leh. Not sure how you came out on shortest.

          Pangong Tso to Tangste is just 34 KMs and you on this route need to go to Chusul first, 45 KMs and then come back to Tangste from Erath – Harong route, which is 81 KMs from Chusul to Tangste. So, I will not advice that you ride to Changla after riding 125 KMs and then further 130 odd KMs to Leh.

    • Many thanks, Dheeraj. This is what I understand:
      1. To go to Rezang La, I need an ILP.
      2. The route I should take is Pangong-back to Tangste-Harong-Chushul-Rezang La-back to Leh via same route.
      If this is correct, I will put this as my route in ILP.
      Much appreciated.

      • 1. Yes Rishi, you need permits for it.
        2. Regarding route, it will be like: Pangong Tso (Spangmik) – Man – Merak – Chusul, then from Chusul enter the road towards Nama – Erath – Harong – Tangste. It is a circuit. Please refer the map: Maps of Ladakh for better understanding.

        You need to write Man, Merak, Chusul, Tsaga, Nama, Erath, Harong on the permit.

        • Guess you finally suggested the same route that I thought of and asked in my original query – Spangmik-Man-Merak-Chushul-Rezang La and return to Leh via Harong-Tangste-Karu. Thanks!

        • But Rishi, take into account that going all the way to Leh after visiting Chusul, will be very very long and tedious journey for sure

        • Thanks. Want to pick your brains a little more so that we don’t end up being over-enthusiastic. Pan gong to Rezang La via Man/Merak and back to Leh via Erath:Tangste is a total of 270kms if my calculations is right. When people do 330kms in one day Leh-Pangong-Leh, that is doable. Why not the former? If you do not recommend this, we won’t embark on this stretch.

        • Yes, you are right, it is around 270 KMs when you take it from Lukung 🙂 … Well, thing is Spangmik to Chusul 45 KMs is all a dirt road and beautiful so you take more stops. It will take around 3 Hrs just to reach Chusul – Nama and then next 81 KMs as per couple of years back had good roads not sure how it stands today. 340 KMs of Pangong Tso takes 12 Hrs on good roads and one just do it for the sake of doing it not getting enjoyment of it. I am not saying you opt out of it, I am suggesting that it might be long that you reach Tangste itself and I am comparing it from just one side 170 KMs of Pangong Tso that you need to do incase you go directly to Leh. I will suggest take a call at what time you reach Tangste, if it is 2-3, you will only have 2.5-3 Hrs to make it to Leh in Daylight else drive in dark but if you end up there at 4, I will suggest not to proceed and stay at Tangste. Hence, if you want to run on road and capture the beauty it is fine to take that route but then if you want to thoroughly enjoy it, better do it slowly and stay overnight at Tangste and leave next day to Leh

        • Also, dont go by what people do, as including myself I have known many people who do Delhi – Srinagar, Leh – Manali, Srinagar – Leh, Leh – Tso Moriri – Leh, Tso Moriri – Manali – Bilaspur, Kaza – Kinnaur – Delhi etc in just one day 😀 😀 … All depends upon your definition of travel

        • Love the way you explain! Must appreciate it.
          I come from an army family and since youth have harboured a wish to pay homage to the Rezang La warriors. Here is what I am planning, after carefully listening to your advise:
          Will leave Pangong at 6am, reach Rezang La at 10 worst case, stay for 30min, reach Tangste back by 2:30 and Leh by 6:30. Hopefully that’s doable. However, if I hit Tangste after 4:30, will stay there overnight.
          BTW, how much time does it take from Tangste to Leh via Karu?

        • Hi Rishi,

          It will take about 4-4.5 Hrs minimum to reach Leh from Tangste. Actually, if you reach Tangste anytime beyond 3.30, I will suggest take a step back and stay there only. Why I am suggesting is because you need to cross Chang La pass which is actually higher than Khardung La 🙂 🙂 … And getting stuck at such a high altitude late in the evening will not help the cause if at all. Hence, skeptical about it 🙂 … So, better keep 3-3.30 as the deadline not 4.30.

          PS: Really appreciate you guys taking time to pay homage to our brave soldiers !! Do spend sometime with them, they feel really good when people from other parts meet and spend time with them. Thanks

        • Best wishes for your Ladakh trip. Have great fun and inc ase any doubt, please feel frer to leave a comment here. and if in case you happen to be happy to spread smiles, please execute our initiatives of DoW Causes on your own when you travel there, in order to help the local community up there in remote Himalayas. You can check more details about them at: DoW – Causes | A Step Towards Responsible Travel and can execute them on your own.

        • Hi Dheeraj, need guidance. I have a new situation to deal with. I have booked the recently launched Himalayan from Royal Enfield. Due to technical issues, the delivery is moved to mid-May month. My trip starts June 17. Thus, there is a high chance that I may not receive original RC in time, while the number may still be out. Can I take this bike to Leh then?

        • Hmm, this could be OK. I think the papers will still be in your name which should be OK for you AFAIK. But, be ready with the papers which should be OK when confronted.

    • dheeraj

      how much is fees to get the permit for foreign tourist to go khardungla, and how much time it will take to get these permissions.

  37. Sreeram Gopal on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    We are a group of 5 planning to travel to Leh-Ladakh. We are planning on renting a car fropm Delhi (via zoomcar). Our itinerary is Srinagar-Gulmarg-Kargil-Leh-Sarchu-Manali-Kulu.

    What all documents are required to ply in this route considering that we are taking a rental car? Do you have any suggestions for the order for travel?

    Thanks,
    Sreeram Gopal

  38. RAVI PUNETHA on

    Dear Dhreej ji,

    Your site and yourself has helped me several times. Now this year i am travelling from srinagar to leh and return through manali route.

    please reply for following points so that i can plan accordingly:

    1. Is ILP required for Nubra- wari la pass – pangong lake?
    2. Is ILP required for Nubra- shyok village- pangong lake?
    3. from your blogs i think permit is required to travel from pangong to tso moriri. Please correct my understanding.

    BTW i am travelling from 16 Aug to 27 Aug.

    • Hi Ravi,

      1,2. No you do not need ILP for Wari La or Shyok route AFAIK.
      3. Yes if you go from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri via Chusul route, you will need inner line permits and even after that army can send you back from Chusul

  39. chintanbhatt777 on

    Dear Dhiraj,

    We are 4 members (Male) planning for self drive SUV round road trip to Leh from Rajkot (Gujarat).

    Starting from Rajkot to Ajmer, Amritsar, Srinagar, Kargil, Leh, Nubra (Turtuk), Pangong (Spangmik), Moriri (Karzok), Jispa / Sarchu, Manali, Chandigarh and back to Delhi.

    How many days should this trim take?
    Should we take any kind of permit for this route?

    Thanks & Regards,
    CHINTAN BHATT

    • Hello Chintan,

      You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travellers including me at the link here for 13-14 days: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh. You can extend the day in Nubra Valley to visit Turtuk and drop the rest day after Pangong Tso in the plan. You will not need any permit for the above route being indians.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  40. Hi Dheeraj,

    we are planning a trip to leh from manali in August 2015 (1st week) .is this the right time to travel?
    do we need to to book Bykes in Leh in advance?
    can we cover pangong lake from leh in 1 day and come back to leh?
    in case we spend night in Dunker(Nubra) or near Pangong lake,do we need to do advance booking?

    • Deepak, It is monsoon time in general up there in North and at some parts of Manali – Leh Highway (like before Baralacha La) and Srinagar – Leh Highway (like before Kargil) you might need to face monsoon hassles but once you get closer to Ladakh, then Ladakh being rain shadow region is least affected by monsoon rains, though rains does reach Ladakh now but to minimum and mostly it might remains overcast conditions. There is no thumb rule of certainty about weather conditions but above is generally common pictures seen over last few years except ugly 2010 …

  41. Hello Concern,

    I am planning to do a ride from Indore – shimla – Kaza – Keylong – Tso kar – Tso Morriri – Chumathang – Upshi – Karu – Sakti – Pangong – Marismak La – Back to Thiksey – Shey – Leh (spending 4-5 days in Leh including panamik and khardung and Hundar etc) – Leaving Leh and riding towards Kargil (Including Dha Hanu Detours)
    – ShriNagar – Delhi – and back to Indore .

    Now my Main concern is if I ride from Kaza side and reach Tso kar and Morrriri ,
    1. Will it be okay and will I face any Permit issue?.
    2. As I have read the above portal, i will be needing the permit to Marismak La pass, so from where I can get those permit.?
    3. What will be the better route according to you , if this itinerary is not okay.
    4. Which all places here will I needing a permit for?
    Also includes your tips for my safe ride.
    Desperately waiting for your reply?

    • Hi Ashish,

      1. Yes, it will be OK to travel from Kaza towards Tso Moriri with overnight halt at Jispa/Keylong and then Sarchu or do Kaza to Sissu, Sissu to Sarchu and sarchu to Tso Moriri, may be. No permit is required if all are indians in the group.
      2. Yes, you will need permit for Marsimik La. Here is the process: Ladakh Inner Line Permit Updates on Process & Download Form
      3. Plan seems OK to me if you can crack the availability of fuel as that is what concerns me with plan like this. There is only one fuel pump that is there at Karu. So, from Keylong to Leh via Tso Moriri, Pangong tso and Marsimik La, you will need fuel in spare.
      4. Tso Moriri to Pangong Tso via Chusul will need permits, even after permits you can be sent back from Loma or Tsaga or Chusul, so be prepared for that hiccup.

  42. Sajan Joseph on

    Hi Dheeraj
    My dad served in the Indian Army and he was killed in a road accident in November 1978. He was cremated or buried in Kargil. Are you aware of any such burial grounds for Army in Kargil. Till today , we have not visited the place and neither did we see his body. Now my mother is aged and she has expressed her desire to visit the place at least once. Can you help me out. I stay in Kerala and it is quite a long way. If there is any information , please write to me. I will be highly obliged.
    Regards
    Sajan

  43. Dear Dheeraj

    My husband and I are now in Leh. We found overselves a nice driver to take us around and who has agreed to take us to Nubra Valley, Pangong Lake, Lake Moriri. However we are having difficulties finding a travel agent willing to process our Inner Permit without us using their driver (we are French/Singaporean citizens). Could you recommend a travel agency that would help us to apply for a permit for us.

    Thank you in advance for your good advice.

    • Singababe, get in touch with Lobzang zotpa mob; 09718066771(Delhi),09419216587(leh). He should be in Leh and should be able to help you out with permits.

  44. Hi,

    Can we go to dah village from kargil via batalik without permits…

    • No, in order to follow Batalik route, you have to take permits from Kargil DC Office. However, there is another route from Chitkan to Dah – Hanu which as per my knowledge is exempted from permits.

  45. ABtraveller on

    Hello Dheeraj,

    I am off to Leh via Srinagar on this Friday i.e 12th and will be back via manali . I have couple of queries related to Ladkah.

    – I am hiring Taxi number (yellow no Plate) which is not allowed for local sightseeing , i know , however is there any extra Taxes i need to bear for entering or parking the Car in Leh ?

    – If i start on 16th from Srinagar can i reach leh on 17th Evening ?? Halting at kargil of course .

    – We are only 3 ppl and would be hiring Enfield to visit Nubhra and Tso-Pangong , we are not much experienced Bikers , So will we get other Bikers en route whom we can follow , just to have a group . Also , do ppl add there in their group to ride ??

    – I guess no extra Tax for returning via manali as well ? except state one !!

    – By any chance do ppl travelling via Srinagar get other ppl to Share Taxi at some cost ? Like we have space in Xylo can we get somebody to share some cost till leh or to manali from leh maybe ??

    – What are the road conditions to Nubhra via Khardungla and Pangong riding in Bikes ?

    Would be a great help if you can help answering above questions. 🙂
    Many Thanks !!
    AB

    • Hi AB,

      1. No parking charges required, You can park it near your hotel as most people do. Toll you need to give state wise only not district wise.
      2. Yes, very easily and most people do it that ways only as 2 day trip over Srinagar to Leh
      3. Mostly people on roads become welcoming up there but you never know in case you get some arrogant groups though chances are less
      4. No extra tax.
      5. Sometimes yes. Please see the DoW Calendar from the menu and you can of course accommodate couple of people in case they are traveling the same dates. On the road or near taxiu stand as well you will get to find some as well
      6. Road conditions are OK but there will be snow and being first time riders consult from the rental agency before going up there in case snow is present on the roads.

      Regards
      dheeraj

  46. Sir m planning to visit Leh in a taxi (with a private number and not as a commercial vehicle) will I require any permit to visit pangong tso and nubra valley in this case

  47. Dear Dheeraj,

    1) Being a Bangladeshi what are the places in Kargil and Ladakh that I can see with an Indian Visa only?

    2) In a 6 days visit @ Ladakh how long will it take to get the permission to visit Nubra valley and Pangong lake?
    I have already read that no Bangladeshi has ever been successful to get the permission to visit these places, just wondering as of 2015 if there is any change now.

    3) Are unmarried couple allowed to share same room in Hotels in this Himalayan province?
    ( eg: kashmir, kargil, ladakh, manali)? is it considered as illegal act or social offense ?

    • Robin, you can only cover Srinagar – Leh Highway, Manali – Leh Highway and local sightseeing in Leh. Also, you can go over and visit Suru Valley from Kargil

      You cannot visit Pangong Tso and Nubra Valley.

  48. Nilavishek on

    Hi Sir,
    Can u clear my doubts whether permits are required for this route
    Manali-Leh-Khardungla-Nubra valley-Pangong-Marshim La-Tso Mori-Leh…

    Let me know which are the places in the above route where I require permits…….
    Any additional details will be appreciated……..Thanks

      • Nilavishek on

        Can I hire a car from Manali and visit all the above places?????/

        • Yes, you can hire the taxi from Manali but that will drop you to Leh only. Then you need to hire a Leh based taxi to roam all other places in Ladakh. Else you can ask a Ladakhi driver to come and pick you up from Manali incase you want to have just one taxi for whole ladakh tour.

          For the leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2015 – 16 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-12% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

  49. Hi,
    to all i m planing to 11june 2015 to go by taxxi leh laddak. Rout is open this time. My rout is delhi to shimla-manali-keylong-leh.
    We are go only two person. Any one join this trip.. i have total 7 to 8 days this trip.

  50. Hi again Dheeraj,
    I have a few more queries regarding travel to Leh. We are a group of four people travelling to Leh, renting a taxi with a driver from Delhi. We plan to use the same rental car for the whole trip, i.e. from Delhi-Srinagar-Leh-Manali-Delhi.
    1) Is outside car (taxi from delhi) allowed for internal travelling within Leh (Nubra valley/Pangong/leh city).
    2) If yes, any permits required for the same?
    3) The driver will be a local from Delhi, can that be a problem of any sort?

    Thanks
    Kanika

    • Taxis outside Ladakh are not allowed to do any sightseeing within Leh – Ladakh. You can use them for drop-in and take-away modes only. So, the taxi you are hiring locally must have private number plate otherwise you will have to again hire a taxi within Ladakh and pay for your local taxi without using it.

      It is better to reach Srinagar by Air to save time and some energy. Then, hire a taxi to Kargil from Srinagar and fix a taxi of Ladakh number in Kargil (get help from drivers in the article of taxi rates linked below) which will allow you to do sightseeing on Srinagar – Leh Highway as well (Srinagar taxi will not be allowed) and keep that Ladakh number taxi with you for rest of the trip.

  51. Hi Dheeraj! You’re doing a great job providing such great information through your posts! Kudos to that!
    i need a little help from you. I’m planning Leh from june 09- june 19, 2015. Delhi-Patnitiop-srinagar-kargil-leh-leh city-nubra valley-leh city-pangong tso-sarchu-manali-delhi.
    I am planning to leave for manali via sarchu from pangong tso directly. is this possible? what route do i take? any permits required for this?
    Thanks
    Kanika

    • Kanika, yes, if you can start early in the morning, you can take the route from Pangong Tso to Sarchu via Chang La – Karu – Upshi – Taglang La – Pang – Sarchu. No permits needed for this.

  52. Hi Dheeraj,
    I am planning to travel to hanle from pongang and from hanle to tso moriri via Salsal La ,Charchagan La so do I have to apply for two permits? One from pongang to hanle and second from hanle to tso moriri?

    • Alok, only one permit is required. You need to mention all the names of these villages on the route. Also, have a plan B as many a times, tourists are sent from Chusul post back to Pangong Tso even after having permits.

      • Thanks Dheeraj. I have hired Ford Ecosport from Zoomcars,Delhi.. Will update about the experience after my trip.

        • Best wishes for your trip. If possible, try and share your Himalayan experience with us at DoW – Himalayan Travel Community as Photo Tale or Travel Tale Or your reviews of the hotels/guest houses where you stayed or dhabhas/restaurants you ate food on your trip… All this might help others planning the similar trip too 🙂 🙂

      • hey i was planning a trip wherein i would reach leh on 22nd or 23rd august and was planning on visiting pangong tso, dha and hanu, and a place or two more, and then leaving for padum, zanskar on 29th or 30th of august and then exploring the zanskar valley and trekking to phuktal gompa in the next 10 to 12 days and leaving for srinagar on 10th or 11th september.
        I am a national of india, so which permits may i need. also it would be helpful if you could let me know what kind of cheaper transport is available in all these places. thank you.

        • Saurabh, since you are Indian National you do not need any permits for these places to visit in Ladakh. Regarding transport you need to rely mostly on shared taxis between these places.

  53. kamendra Chahar on

    Hello Dheeraj
    For Hanle & all other places listed by u can I get the ILP from manali

    • Kamendra, yes, follow the process detailed above to get the permits for Hanle and other inner line areas where permits are required in Ladakh.

  54. Thanks Dheeraj.

    We will also be traveling from Nubra Valley via Wari La – Chang La to Pangong Tso on 31st May. Will this road be open by then? Where can I check the status?

    • Shweta, Wari La pass will not be open by that time of the year. Even if it is open, not recommended to travel as road conditions will be quite bad.

  55. Hello Dheeraj,

    We, family of 5 adults will be traveling to Ladakh from Srinagar between 28th May & 7th June. I am finding it extremely confusing to ascertain whether ILP is required to visit Moriri.

    I have followed the posts on DOW and it seems to suggest that ILP is not required for Moriri but the J&K tourism website (see the link below) says it is required. We called and checked with them again and they confirmed the same.

    http://www.jktourism.org/index.php/camping/tso-moriri

    Can you throw some light on this? Also is there any way to go from Pangong to Moriri directly without requiring ILP?

    Thanks very much.

    • Shweta there is no doubt that Tso Moriri does not require any permit and the circular says it all 🙂 🙂 … As long as you following the conventional route from Upshi – Chumathang – Mahe – Sumdo – Tso Moriri, you do not require any permits. However, the last line where you say direct route from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri, there you require a permit and even with the permit it is not assured that if army will allow you to pass through that route or not.

      • Thanks so much for your very prompt response.

        Hmm…so it seems that the J&K tourism website is not up to date. I see that going to Moriri via Chulshul will require ILP, what if we went from Spangmik-Lukung- Erath- dirt 4×4 track via Mitpal Tso and Hor La to Moriri. Would you recommend this route and also whether it require ILP?

        • Shweta, not at all. That route is more troublesome and army does not allow that route at all. Plus no one will be there on that route in case of any help.

  56. JITEN Shah on

    Hi Dheeraj

    Wonderful information 🙂
    We are group of 4 ppl travelling for the first time to Leh and your articles are helping us a lot.
    We are following below given iternary :

    28-May Srinagar to Kargil
    29-May Kargil To Leh
    30-May Leh to Nubra Valley
    31-May Nubra Valley to Leh
    1-June Leh to Pangong Tso Lake
    2-June Pangong to Tsomoriri Lake
    3-June Tsomoriri to Sarchu(Optional if its Open by that time)
    4-June Sarchu to Leh
    5-June Sarchu to Kargil
    6-June Kargil to Srinagar

    So for the above given iternary I need to take Inner Line Permit only for Pangong to Tso Moriri Lake. Can you tell us that whether we can take this permit before our visit as our schedule is very tight and wont be having time to Visit DC Office in the day time. And if we can take permit before our visit then please tell us how we can proceed ahead for taking permit from here.

    We are coming back to Leh from Sarchu as we heard that it is not fixed whether the Manali Leh road will get opened by that time(4-Jun) and even if it gets open it is not safe to visit that road.

    Let us know if any other crucial information we are missing which can help us a lot.

    Thanks in advance.

    • Jiten, I think you meant Leh to Kargil on 5-June. Well, the plan is very hectic plus there are lot of Iffs and Buts to the Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri route even after having permits it is all luck and army can send you back from the Chusul post. You are not planning to stay at Leh which is again a risk of not acclimatized to the alitutde and plus you will not be able to arrange permits for Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri route.

  57. hi dheeraj

    Thanks for a such wonderful informations.

    i will be travelling to ladakh this july with two royal enfields from manali.
    We will be taking a bit different route which starts from
    manali to sarchu ,
    sarchu to korzok,
    korzok to pangong ( via sumdo, mahe, horla, kakasang la, satatho la , chusul , mann, merak )
    pangong to numbra ( via tangtse, durbuk,shyok, agham, khalsar , diskit )
    numbra to leh
    leh to manali

    Kindly suggest and comment on the route and permits required if any.

    Thanks
    Ramesh

    • Ramesh, You should not do Tso Moriri while going from Manali to Leh because first the taxi from Manali will not be allowed to visit Tso Moriri. Even if you manage Leh taxi or going on your own like on rented bikes, then you will not be acclimatized to sleep at such high altitude so early in the trip and may cause some ugly AMS issues for you. Highly not recommended, because any help if required will be very hard to find in case you get hit with AMS.

      • hI Dheeraj ,

        Thanks for the reply.

        We will be staying in manali for couple of nights and then be halting at sarchu for 1 night before going to tso-moriri.
        wont that be enough for us.

        Kindly comment on the road conditions during july and permit requirements for the chosen route.

  58. Hi dheeraj I have to go ley by road using sentro so pls advise my vehicle is right to traveling srinagar-leh-manali route and which is the best time to travel let ladhak I plan my trip 10june 2015

    • For hatchback/sedan taking on Manali – Leh Highway Or Spiti Valley via Manali Or Ladakh, please refer the link: FAQ | Can I do Leh – Ladakh / Spiti / Manali – Leh trip in Hatchback or Sedan? for more details.

  59. Dear Dheeraj,

    Thanks for the details of Leh – Ladakh Tour and micro level information shared by you to help first time travelers.

    I am planning to visit Leh – Ladakh from 15th August – 2015 to 23 August 2015 (8 N / 9 D) by flight.

    Please advise this is suitable time to visit this place ?

    Once finalized, I will share my Itinerary with you.

    Thanking you

    Regards

    Hitesh

  60. Rahul Nathani on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Thanks for the help/ guidance you have been providing.

    I, along with my friends will be travelling to Ladakh on bike. We will be having 4 bikes, all RE Classic 500CC (with pillion) and 1 back up vehicle. The following is our plan.

    14-Aug-15 Mumbai to Srinagar
    15-Aug-15 Srinagar to Kargil
    16-Aug-15 Kargil to Leh
    17-Aug-15 Leh Local
    18-Aug-15 Leh to Nubra
    19-Aug-15 Nubra to Pangong
    20-Aug-15 Pangong to Tsokar via Keylong
    21-Aug-15 Tsokar lake to Sarchu
    22-Aug-15 Sarchu to Rohtang pass to Manali
    23-Aug-15 Manali to Delhi

    The following are my queries:

    1. I understand that Nubra to Pangong will be most difficult part of our trip (please correct me if I am wrong). Which route will you suggest for it?
    2. As per the above plan, at which places will we require Inner Line Permits?
    3. What will suggest, Tso moriri or Tso Kar?
    4. At which routes will we require to carry fuel with us?
    5. We are planning to take bikes on rental. I hope it will be not be a problem as the bikes will not be in our name.
    6. Is august right time to be in Leh?

    Also, let me know if there is any place which according to you is worth visiting and I have missed.

    Looking forward to your reply. Cheers!!!

    P.S: This will be the first time we will be riding in such extreme conditions.

    Regards
    Rahul

    • Hi Rahul

      following are my answers:

      1. Regarding Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso route, in order to take Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso via Shyok village, you need not need any permits. However, with such a small distance it appears tempting to be done BUT just to analyze the difficulty I will strongly suggest that you read:Trip Report | Nubra – Shyok Village – Pangong Tso Route. The report is from couple of year back in June & in July/August, most likely the route is washed away. Similar, reports are there from last year as well. So better confirm first, analyze the high risk involved and then only attempt it or better avoid it unless very much sure.

      Next possible way is to attempt Wari La route, which is also a bit desolated but doable enough. If your driver agrees to travel on this route then take the Wari La route to Pangong Tso. Remember that any help required on both these routes will be HARD to find in miles of distance. If you have couple of vehicles then only take this route otherwise best is to avoid it.

      2 + 3. I will suggest here to skip Tso Moriri and also on 20th, there is no such route to Tso Kar via Keylong from PAngong Tso. Keylong comes in Himachal when travel to Manali from Sarchu. On 20th, best will be that you come back towards Leh, either stay at Leh OR stay at Upshi. Tso Kar will be quite far from PAngong Tso and back to back long days will be tough.

      4. Refer: https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/fuel-availability-in-leh-ladakh-ladakh-self-drive-tips/
      5. Are you planning to hire from Delhi? If yes, outside rental bikes are not allowed now in Ladakh. Bikes can be punded.
      6. For Ladakh August is fine, but you will face hassles on the way to Leh from Srinagar up to Kargil and then beyond Baralacha La Pass up to Manali – Delhi route.

      PS: Since, you are riding first time in such conditions, my personal advice will be to skip Wari La route as well and do conventional route only.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  61. Hi Dheeraj,

    First of all, I would like to express my gratitude to you. Your supplied information is really helpful.

    I have one question. I’m not indian national. So, I’m quite unfamiliar with the places and area that are mentioned above even after “googling” via Gmaps. So, just wanna get confirmation, as per my understanding, areas at Sham Valley do not required PAP, right? For example, from Leh, I visit Magnetic hill, Confluence of Indus- Zanskar river, Alchi, Gurudwara Pathar Sahib and Likir.

    Appreciate your advice.

    • Hi Zul,

      Thanks a lot. Yes, Sham Valley does not fall under Inner Line. You need to get permits for Nubra Valley, Khardung La, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri in case you planning to visit any of these common places in Ladakh apart from Dah – Hanu and Batalik route where also you need permits. The article will be more helpful, check : Protected Area Permit in Ladakh for Foreigners

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      • Thanks Dheeraj. I need another help. Just a quick review on my planned itinerary and few questions. This itinerary is modified from the common itinerary by air posted by you.

        My plan is to travel from 13/9/2015 till 19/9/2015. Just a very short trip.

        13/9/2015: Delhi- Leh by air. Expected to touch down around 9-10 am. Acclimatize once reach Leh. In the late afternoon, try to go sightseeing at local leh bazaar etc (if body permits)

        14/9/2015: Apply for Inner Line Permit in the morning. After obtain ILP, go for Sham Valley tour (Magnetic Hill- Confluence of Indus- Zanskar river- Gurudwara Pathar Sahib- Alchi- Likir- return to Leh).

        15/9/2015: Nubra Valley Trip (Leh- Khardung La- Diskit- Hunder)

        16/9/2015: Return to Leh from Nubra Valley (Hunder- Diskit- Sumur- Panamik- Khardung La- Leh)

        17/9/2015: Pangong Tso trip (Leh- Thiksey Monastery- Pangong Tso)

        18/9/2015: Return to Leh from Pangong Tso (Pangong Tso- Hemis Monastery- shey- druk white lotus school- Leh)

        19/9/2015: Leh- Delhi by air

        My questions:
        1. On what day DC office open? Is it open everyday or just on working days?
        2. On 14/9/2015, which is on monday, we plan to apply for permit through our guest house/ registered travel agents in Leh. Based on my reading, the approval is very swift. So, I assume it is manageable to apply for the permit and at the same time, pay a visit to sham valley. Is it ok?

        Thanks yaar!
        p/s. Actually, this is my 2nd try to reach ladakh. Last year, me and my friends were very unlucky. We planned to go by land to Ladakh via Srinagar- Leh highway on early June. However, due to landslide (happen after heavy rain), the road was closed and we had to cancel our trip and resorted to Plan B, which is Kashmir visit. I really hope this year everything will go smoothly, hence appreciate your review on our itinerary.

  62. Hi dheeraj, I am planning to visit leh in april with 4 of my friends for 10 days. We were planning to rent a bike and roam around on that. So wanted to ask you if it is safe to roam on bikes. And wanted to get some tips regarding the health issues due to lack of oxygen.
    Thank you. 🙂

    • Dhwanil, you need to read the article carefully at the link: Acute Mountain Sickness and Importance of Acclimatization

      Regarding bikes, it is completely safe in terms of being or riding alone unless you have some health or mechanical issues with the bike as there is mostly no help around especially on some remote routes. However, in case you have not ride bikes earlier in mountains then it will be very tricky for you and can cause accident since you might not be mentally as well as physically prepared for such bike rides.

    • Sandeep Shukla on

      Hello dheeraj plz hepl us… We are leaving from delhi on 30 april morning by innova we want to ride the boke in khardungla and visit pangong by cab…want to reach delhi by 6 … So can u suggest a plan please..we have planned to start from delho and halt at manali after that we will stay at sarhchu… And nxt day to reach lehwe will take a bike will visit kardungla amd come back next day we will go tp pagon… And will leave to delhi…please give us a better plan Sandeep Shukla

      • Sandeep, please hold on to your plans 🙂 … In April, no road to Ladakh is open. You cannot travel from Srinagar side nor from Manali side. This year roads are only expected to open late May and Manali Leh might open only around second week of June.

  63. Hi .

    I would be reaching leh on Feb 22 . My tour plan is
    Leh – Kargil ( I hope the roads will be open in winter also from leh to kargil )
    Kargil – Leh
    Leh – Khardungla
    Leh – Pangong Lake via changla pass
    Please do let me know if i require any special permit to visit Kargil
    Thanks
    Viplav

    • Viplav, no special permits are required to visit Kargil. However, you should rest completely on the first day after landing in Leh for some acclimatization. Mostly the roads are open barring few days of heavy snowfall.

  64. Dheeraj,
    your site is wornderful. I am gaining lot of info from here. And its awesome to know that now Indians do not need permits at some places in ladakh.
    in order to understand exact area/routes that are now permit free for Indians, is it possible to show it on a map with a green colour or so? and/or may be other permit required roads in red ?
    This is because, it is not easier to find the small villages that you mentioned as required permit type, on the google map or so.
    Thanks
    Hrushi

    • Hrushi, nice suggestions. We have a DoW Map of Ladakh which we will try to enhance and suit it that ways to color code the villages where permit is required and where it is not. For a workaround, you can check the itinerary mentioned in the article below which covers almost all the tourist destination in Ladakh which a first timer will be interested in and the routes mentioned there does not require any permits. You can check the article: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh

      • I am interested in going following route.
        Manali – keylong stay – sarchu stay – tso moriri stay – mahe – mirpal tso – nama(or chushul) pangong tso stay leh stay

        to be precise, tso moriri to pangong is via mahe, yaye tso, hor la, kakasang la, mirpal tso, Satatho la, nama (or chushul), merak

        will I require permit for this route between two lakes ? for chushul one will require a permit as per your site. But if we go via Nama (as per google, one can skip chushul by this way), will I require a permit?
        if permit is required, is it possible to get permits in Manali (officially or through travel agents) ? or only place to get it is Leh?

        another different query than this page is, on any site on internet including DoW, does not give any information about renting a bike in Srinagar. Can you please include that on your site? If renting is possible, is it possible to drop the bike in manali or any other place? On internet, there is one such site that allows renting a bike in manali and dropping in srinagar, delhi etc.
        I believe lot of people are interested in this information as per my search on internet.

        Last but not the least, I am extremely grateful for your site with its immensely valuable information.

        • hrushi, you will not be allowed to go through that route. That route is forbidden and army do not allow it unless you are too too lucky and they allow you which is quite unlikely. Also, that route is completely isolated, in case army allows you and you get stuck then you are no where near any help. And yes, you need inner line permits for this route and need to mention these places on the permit form. Permit cannot be taken from Manali, they have to be taken from Leh DC Office and that too in person especially for this route. Here is the article detailing the process: Inner Line Permits for Leh – Ladakh

          Regarding your other query, all the details are present here on DoW may be missed or not searchable enough 😀 …

          Bikes rented outside Leh are not allowed for sightseeing inside Ladakh except Tso Moriri and Tso Kar lakes which can be done while going to Manali from Leh. Private bikes are completely allowed. You can use the outside rented bike to reach Leh but then for going to Pangong Tso, nubra Valley, etc.. you need to hire rented bikes from Leh only.

          To know more about this rule and present situation, please refer the link: Bikes Rented Outside Leh Banned in Ladakh

          Since, this is the first time rule is getting implemented no one is sure what will happen or what will not. I personally feel larger groups will be targetted more than smaller groups or individuals.

          For renting bikes in Leh – Ladakh along with current Bike Union Prices, you can check the DwD Community thread: Leh – Ladakh Bike Rental Rates 2014 – 15 & Reliable Shops

          the one way bike rental is quite costly and leave a big dent in pocket for you, sometimes like 12K for just the pickup from Manali. Be sure if you are ready to make that investment or not or if at all it is worth the money spent. My suggestion is unless you are hard core biker and cannot live up the passion of biking, it is not wise to spend that much money just for the pickup of bike.

          For Srinagar bike rental you can refer the link: https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/india/ladakh-zanskar-travel-guides/outside-rented-bikes-banned-ladakh-t1009-50.html#p12858

  65. Hi Dheeraj,

    We are thinking of visiting Dah and Hanu villages on our way to Leh coming from Kargil. Is there anyway we can obtain the Inner Line Permit prior to arriving in Leh as I understand that foreigners need to have permit to visit Dahhanu. Thank you.

  66. Hello Dheeraj, What about Bangladeshis?do they have to take inner line permit from Delhi?Can’t we manage it from Leh?
    Your help would be greatly appreciated.

    • No, you need to apply it from Delhi only. Permit for citizens of Pakistan, China, Afghanistan, Bangladesh and Burma are issued by the Ministry of Home Affairs (MHA) and permits for those people who are on diplomatic or official VISA are issued by the Ministry of External Affairs (MEA) in Delhi. 

    • Thanks Dheeraj. How many days it will take to manage the permit from Delhi?Do you please help me providing the procedures?You can just gimme any official link. No need to give details here.
      Thanks in advance.

      • Anindya, till date, to whomsoever I interacted from Bangladesh and who were seeking the permits, have not been able to get any success in acquiring the permits or if anyone did, they never shared back with me, may be. So, I am not really sure. It should be a long process I believe as one girl I forgot the name even took to much time to apply for it and still in vein. She posted the experience and details in a thread on India Mike, please try searching for it there.

        • Dheeraj,
          I’ve heard that now there are possibilities to get leagal permit from Leh to visit Nubra Valley, Pangong Lake and Tso Moriri Lake.
          Do you have any update regarding this?

          Thanks in advance
          Anindya

  67. nagendra kushwah on

    hi dheeraj,can u plan the itinerary for us as we planned the bike trip in first week of sept from manali to leh,days we have 12-15…thx

  68. Thanks a lot for this post. Really appreciate your efforts in putting such a wide range and exhaustive information for the benefits of tourists like his. Me and my wife are planning for Leh-Ladakh complete tour by road on our 500 CC bullet for about 10-15 days(leaving from Delhi), in September last week through the October first week. Will it be good time to visit the place w.r.t. weather and road conditions. Any any other advice to us.

    • Manoj, September is a very good time to visit Ladakh but most of the hotels starts to close by end of it and cold on Manali – Leh Highway and Lakes in Ladakh gets nippier. So, go prepared. Also, you will have limited options of stay too late in September, so will advice if possible try to wrap the trip in September only.

  69. hi dheeraj,
    kudos for so putting together so much information.
    a doubt about the pangong tso to tso moriri route. is it possible to travel to man-merak-chushul and to mahe directly via mirpal tso (route indicated in google map, of course army permitting) instead of the tsaga-loma-nyoma mahe route.
    thanks in advance,
    biju.

    • Biju, both these routes first needs permit and then your luck if army will allow you to pass through or not from Chusul checkpost which in general they deny. Then the Mirpal Tso route if quite risky affair so instead choose the Tsaga La route if you get the permits and allowed by the army to cross Chusul. Else you need to come back the same route again.

  70. Farogh mahmood on

    dear dheeraj, google maps shows a road from tangste to mahe via harong, nama and mirpal tso. have you been on that road? if yes, then please tell what is the condition of the road and is it doable if we are denied permit for merak chushul hanle route to go directly to tso morriri from pangong

    • Farogh, the route that goes from Nama – Kaksang La – Mitpal Tso is completely desolated and not at all suggested for vehicles not having 4×4. The Kaksang La is even higher than Khardung La in actual altitude measurements and climb to it with sharp stones is not that recommended. Also, army uses this route as an alternate only in case required, so in case of any help there will not be any one around and also, there could be possibility that route might be closed at some point and then you cannot ask for any help anywhere. These alternate routes are cleared on and off basis.

      Above all, to enter this route as well, you need to submit the papers at Chusul Checkpost where actually they will deny the permissions and there is an extra permissions to enter this route that is given by army 🙂 🙂 … So, you can try your luck if required but recently only there was a member in the community who was returned after having permits from Chusul.

  71. Deepak Agnani on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    One quick help.
    We have a private Delhi passed car that we are driving from Delhi to Leh.

    Will there be any problems in using the car internally in Leh?
    Please let us know if we need to carry any permits..

    Thanks,
    Deepak

    • Deepak, since it is a private number car with white number plate then there should not be any issue at all. In case you are traveling from Manali side yo Leh, then you need to take permit to drive on Manali to Rohtang Pass road. In case you are going via Srinagar side, then you do not need any permits.

  72. Hi Deepak,
    Your Blog is just Amazingly Wonderful. It has been very helpful in planning for us. My wife and me are planning a trip to Leh by plane. We are planning to travel from 2nd August to 11 August. I had a few questions and I would be highly obliged if you canhelp me with this. Our Itenary is as follows.
    Day 1 Arrive at Leh. Acclimatize
    Day 2 Local Sightseeing Leh
    Day 3: Alchi via nimmu (Or even Lamayuru to see moonscape) and back
    Day 4: Pangong (Spangmik) Via Chang La
    Day 5: Back to Leh from pangong
    Day 6: Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder-Diskit
    Day 7: Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
    Day 8: Tso Moriri via Chumathang-Mahe-Sumdo-Karzok (211 Km)
    Day 9: Tso Moriri-Tso Kar- Leh (232Km)
    Day 10: Fly Back

    Questions:
    1)Is this itenary Ok or do u have some suggestions?
    2)Is Lamayuru worth it or can we skip and save one day?
    3)We Are planning to do all of local sightseeing by Bike. Is it safe and how easy is it to get petrol on these routes especially Tso Moriri.
    4) In case we get tired by bike rides which route should we do by Car/Xylo etc? We dont want to lose the charm of the Leh Landscape. But just in case we are not able to bike which place can we compromise for Car?
    4) We are NRIs staying in Dubai since one year. Do we need permits as per the new rules?
    5) Can you suggest some places to stay according to your experience at the places mentioned. Budget may not be a constraint.
    6)Is it OK if we go hotel Hunting on the spot or prior bookings is recommended? Is August Peak season?
    7)Is it easy to get a Bike on rent easily and are the bikes well maintained? Since we will be alone is it safe especially if there is a mechanical failure or something? is help accessible and available easily for roadside assistance?

    I would be highly Obliged if you can reply.
    Thanks and regards
    Aneez

    • Thanks Aneez, just a little correction, it is Dheeraj 🙂

      Below are my replies to your queries:

      Questions:
      1) Your itinerary is OK except the fact that just do Nubra Valley first and then Pangong Tso so that you are more acclimatized to the conditions to sleep at Pangong Tso.
      2) Instead of Lamayuru, try to focus just on Sham Valley with Alchi and Likir in place and make it less hectic.
      3) No petrol is available apart from Karu and Leh. You need to tank up everytime you come back to Leh or start for these trips. I hope you have decent experience of riding in hills.
      4) Take it as it comes. In case you feeling tired after Nubra then do rest of the tour by car, same applies to Pangong.
      5) All foreign nationals, NRIs having PIOs or OCIs need PAP (Protected Area Permit) to visit Inner Line areas of Ladakh which has been now waived of for Indian Nationals starting May 2014 only. He/she must be in a group of 2 or more foreigners and PAP must be applied at DC Office with required fees through a registered Travel Agent in Leh. Also, go through the thread in DwD Community: Inner Line Permit and application letter for foreigners

      6) You can check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh (Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri) including moderate (cheap budget hotels as well) in the series of articles starting on the link here

      7) It is season time always in Ladakh when the roads are open with April / September being the leanest among all. So, in case you are OK to search here and there a bit, it should be fine with on the spot bookings too.

      8) In general, bikes in Leh are new models. For renting bikes in Leh – Ladakh along with current Bike Union Prices, you can check the DwD Community thread: Leh – Ladakh Bike Rental Rates 2014 – 15 & Reliable Shops

      • Sorry Dheeraj regarding your name 🙂
        And thankyou so much for your reply. I have modified my itenary as per your advice. Infact after reading more in the blog I have changed my itenary a lot. I just have one query. I was seeing the list of hotels on your blog and the websites like offbeat escapes and even hotels websites. There is a big diference in the prices. For example on your website the price for Hotel Standel in 800-1200 whereas Offbeat and other online website gave me a rate of 3000 per night!!!
        Anyway, after going through your blog we have decided that we will not pre book hotels for Leh and would go there and search. But I am still confused about Pangong Pso and Tso Moriri. The prices quoted by Offbeat is 3400 with meals.
        So what is your advice regarding pre-booking for Nubra, Pangong and Tso Moriri.
        Regarding Inner line permits, we are still Indian Citizens. We dont have PIO or OCI status. We are NRIs just by virtue of staying away from India for more than 6 months and hence our salaries are taxfree. Thats its. we can still vote in india. So do we still fall in category of PAP or are we exempted?
        Thanks once again for your help and advices.

        • Sorry sent you the wrong itenary 🙁
          here is the corrected final Itenary
          Day1 – 31st July: Fly to Srinagar from Bombay
          o Reach at around 2 pm
          o Srinagar Dal Lake
          o Overnight at hotel at Srinagar.
          Day 2 — 1st August | Srinagar, – Sonamarg – Zoji La – Drass – Kargil
          o About 8 Hrs drive, depend upon the traffic movement at Zojila and breaks you take in between
          o Approx 200 Kms
          o overnight at Kargil
          Day 3 –- 2nd August | Kargil – Lamayaru – Leh
          o Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes, Redzong monastery
          o On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, confluence at Nimmu
          o Overnight at Leh
          o Approx 225 Kms
          o About 9-10 Hrs drive, , depending upon the breaks you take in between

          Day 4—3rd August | Leh and Local Sightseeing
          o Local sightseeing including Leh Palace, Main Market, Shanti Stupa, Hemis, Thiksey and Samstanling monasteries
          o overnight at Leh
          Day 5—4th August | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder – Diskit (Nubra Valley)
          o Visit Diskit old and new monastery including the tallest Buddha statue
          o In the evening you can go for double humped camel ride at Hunder
          o See the confluence of rivers at Diskit.
          o Overnight at Diskit/ Hunder
          o Approx 120 kms
          o About 5-6 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between and at Khardung La
          Day 6 – 5th August | Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
          o Visit Sumur and Panamik and finally return to Leh.
          o Panamik has hot water springs and Sumur has a nice monastery.
          o overnight at Leh
          o Approx 150 Kms
          o About 7-9 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between
          Day 7 – 6th August | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
          o Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
          o Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)
          o Approx 160 Kms
          o About 5-6 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between
          Day 8 – 7th August | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
          o Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
          o Overnight at Leh
          o About 5-6 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between
          Day 9 – 8th August | Leh – Upshi – Chumathang – Mahe – Tso Moriri
          o Overnight at Tso Moriri, Karzok.
          o Cover Karzok Monastery.
          o Approx 211 Kms drive
          o About 7-9 hours drive depending on breaks and stops.
          Day 10 – 9th August | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring – Tanglang La – Leh
          o Stay overnight at Leh
          o Approx 232 Kms
          o About 7-8 hours drive depending on breaks and stops
          Day 11 – 10th August | Leh Local rest / Sham Valley
          o Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu, Gurudwara Pather Sahib
          o Overnight at Leh
          Day 12 – 11th August | Fly From Leh to Bombay

        • Aneez, the prices put up on DoW are mostly the walkin prices and those articles as mentioned in them are couple of years old now. So, consider about increment of 10-15% rates every year in hotels. Also, talking over phone and booking will always cost you about 30-35% more than what you actually get when you do walkin and hence I always walkin and see properties and take it 🙂 🙂 … Best way to save money 😀

          If you can search a little here and there, just carry along the print out of the list of stay options with you then there is no need to pre-book. Just go there and save some money and if by chance you happen to be happy to spread smiles, please execute our initiatives of DoW Causes on your own when you travel there, in order to help the local community up there in remote Himalayas. You can check more details about them at: DoW – Causes | A Step Towards Responsible Travel and can execute them on your own 🙂 🙂

  73. Deepak Agnani on

    Hi,

    We have the below plan for Leh and would like to take insights from you on the itinerary:

    8th Aug – Delhi to Manali
    9th Aug – Manali to Keylong
    10th Aug – Keylong – Leh
    11th Aug – 14th Aug – Need suggestions on places that can be visited in Leh
    15th Aug – Leh to Sarchu
    16th Aug – Sarchu to Manali
    17th Aug – Manali to Delhi

    We were also planning to return to Delhi via Srinagar but are not sure if we can fir that in our plan.

    Any help is highly appreciated.

    • Deepak, you can do following:

      12: Rest in Leh and get acclimatized. visit Shanti Stupa in the evening
      13: Day trip to Khardung La
      14: Day trip to Pangong Tso.

      If you plan to return from Srinagar side then you need one day more and hence need to scrape off either Khardung La or Pangong Tso

      • Deepak Agnani on

        Hi Dheeraj,

        Thanks for the reply.

        1. We are reaching Leh on 10th Aug early evening. We will have 4 days in hand.

        2. Also, we read your post where you suggested to take the Srinagar-Leh highway while going and coming back by the Manali-Leh highway.

        3. We are traveling by our own car. We leave from Delhi on 8th August and have to be back on 17th Aug by night.

        You think this is a good plan? Is it achievable?

        Help is much appreciated. 🙂

        • Since, you will have 4 days in hand then you can actually do 2 day trip to Nubra Valley and 1 day trip to Pangong Tso lake after taking one complete day of rest in Leh for acclimatization on 11th aug. I am not sure if you will be able to make it to Leh on 10th evening in case you leaving Delhi on 8th. It takes 4 days to reach Leh from Delhi via Srinagar.

  74. Hello Dheeraj, Really want to thank you for your inputs. These are the valuable ones which helped me during my previous trip to Leh. I am planning my second trip and I wanted to know the procedure to obtain ILP for batalik (kargil-batalik-khaltse). Do I need to mention the complete route in the form?

  75. Hi Dheeraj,

    Following is our schedule for ladakh, need some help from you for permit:

    26th July – DAY 1
    Arrive at srinagar
    Stay – Srinagar

    27th July – DAY 2
    Route: Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass or Kargil
    Stay- drass/kargil

    28th July – DAY 3
    Route: drass – kargil – Lamayuru
    Stay – Lamayuru

    29th July – DAY 4
    Route: Lamayuru – leh (Alchi & Sham valley)
    Stay – Leh

    30th July – DAY 5
    Leh site seeing
    Stay – Leh

    31st July – DAY 6
    Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder – turkut
    Stay – Turtuk

    1st August – DAY 7
    Turtuk – Hunder – Diskit – Sumur – Panamik
    Stay – Diskit

    2nd August – Day 8
    Hunder – Diskit – – Sumur – Khardung La – leh
    Stay – Leh

    3rd August – Day 9
    Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
    Stay – Pangong

    4th August – Day 10
    Pangong Tso Lake – tsomoriri
    Remote Route Changthang (Merak – Chusul – Nyoma)
    Stay – Tsomoriri

    5th August – Day 11
    Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Moore Plains – Sarchu/Jispa
    Stay – Sarchu/Jispa

    6th August – Day 12
    Sarchu/Jispa – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
    Stay – Manali

    I do not have to take Inner line permits for any of the places mentioned above except for Tso moriri via changthang so the places to be included in the permit are :
    Spangmik (Pangong Tso) – Man (9 KMs) – Merak (12 KMs)– Khaltse (4 KMs) – Chusul (24 KMs) – Tsaga La (33 KMs) – Tsaga Village (20 KMs) – Loma (23 KMs) – Nyoma (22 KMs) – Mahe (25 KMs) – Sumdo (10 KMs) – Tso Moriri / Korzok (53 KMs) = 235 KMs
    do this route come under Changthang region? Hanle is not on this route?
    What about ILP for tso kar?
    we have booked tempo traveller, is the permit needed for the vehicle aslo, should I mention it in the form?

    Have I missed anything?

    • Hi Priyanka,

      Instead of Lamayuru, stay at Alchi if you want to break the journey between Srinagar – Leh in 3 days. Secondly, don’t go to Panamik from Turtuk rather stay at Deskit or Hunder. Cover Sumur – Panamik as you return to Leh from Deskit – Hunder. You should avoid the direct route to Pangong Tso to Tso Morrii via Chusul because first it needs permits, second even if the permits are there then as well Army can send you back. Mostly they do so. Hence, better save one day either by skipping Turtuk or doing Srinagar – Leh in 2 days. Use that saved day in doing Tso Moriri from Leh by first going back to Leh from Pangong Tso.

      You do not need any permit for Tso Kar lake.

      In case you still wish to cover this route which can jeopardize the chances of visitng Tso Moriri in case army sends you back from Chusul, then yes, you need to mention these places on the ILP form. Hanle is 50 KM diversion from Loma.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      • Hi Dheeraj,

        Thank you very much for guiding me.
        I have kept 2 days spare at the end in manali, incase we need a day we can use that one if the army sends us back
        Is it safe to go to Tso Moriri by the remote route? The only problem is at the check post, right?

        Regards,
        Priyanka

        • Priyanka, not sure what you mean by safe here. As far as road is concerned there are no gorges there, flat grounds with dirt track type of roads and bumps in between. Apart from that major risk is since no one travel there rather very very less people travel that remote route, so any help if required will not be available around there.

      • neeraj Singh shekhawat on

        Hi dheeraj! I am planning for a leh ladakh trip on 03.09.2014. As we have discussed and finalised this trip today itself, I will need some of your expert advice. Weare planning to leave on 02.09.14 from Mumbai by car and planning to reach srinagar on p4.09.2014. Beyind that I need your advice. We plan to reach Delhi on 11.09.2014.

  76. Gautam Kumbhakar on

    Dear Dhiraj
    Thanks a lot for your quick response.After considering your opinions, I made the programme given below. Is it OK? If not, what should we do ? Our programme is :
    Aug 3 Arrived Jammu station at 12-30 pm. Go to Katra & visit Mata Vaishnodevi.(One way by Helicopter).O/N at Katra.
    Aug 4 Katra to Srinagar. O/N at Srinagar.
    Aug 5 Srinagar to Kargil. O/N at Kargil.
    Aug 6 Kargil to Leh. O/N at Leh
    Aug 7 Leh to Takthok Monastery to see the festival, en-route Hemis, Shey,Thiksey etc. O/N at Leh.
    Aug 8 Leh to Dah to Leh.O/N at Leh.
    Aug 9 Leh-Khardung La-Khalsar-Panamik-Khalsar-Hundar. O/N at Hundar.
    Aug 10 Hundar-Turtuk-Deskit-Khalsar/Agham. O/N at Khalsar/Agham.(Are there any accommodation at Agham ?)
    Aug 11 Khalsar/Agham-Wari La-Karu (for Petrol) -Tangtse-Pangong Tso. O/N at Spangmik.
    Aug 12 Rest at 1sthalf. In 2nd. half, Spangmik—Karu/Upshi. O/N at Karu/Upshi. (Which is better ? )
    Aug 13 Karu/Upshi –Chumathang – Mahe -Tso Moriri. O/N at Korzok.
    Aug 14 Tso Moriri-Tso Kar-Morey Plain-Sarchu. O/N at Sarchu.
    Aug 15 Sauchu-Keylong-Manali-Kullu. O/N at Kullu.
    Aug 16 Kullu-Shimla-Kalka. Train at 11-55 pm.
    Also I have questions
    1. For carrying petrol, where we can buy jerry cans ?
    2. Is it safe to carry petrol in jerry cans ?
    3. What will be the day and night temperature at that time ?
    Pls. help us.We are very tensed about this tour as it is our first bike tour.
    Regards
    Gautam.

    • Gautam, your plan more or less is pretty fine. But I will suggest following tweaks
      Day 9 : Leh to Turtuk and stay overnight there
      Day 10 : Turtuk to Hunder and stay overnight at Hunder or Deskit. Hardly 1 Hr difference form Khalsar where you divert for Wari La. So, just start early on Day 11 from Hunder or Deskit and you should be good.

      Between Upshi and Karu, I think Upshi will have the options of stay, try to see if you can go over to Chumathang for stay.

      Regarding other queries:
      1. You get in Mayapuri in Delhi if you from Delhi NCR.
      2. Yeah, safe. You can carry them in 2 ltrs Coke Bottles too as they are leak proof, so provide better slippage safety. Good quality jerry cans also are slippage proof.
      3. Night will be cool to cold and days will be warm to cool, depending upon overcast conditions

      • Gautam Kumbhakar on

        Dear Dhiraj
        Many many thanks for your valuable suggestions . I will try my best to follow your instructions. It will be a immense help if I get answers of some more queries.
        1. Is there any time schedule to cross Zozi La by bike ? Is it one way or both way ?
        2. We want to buy jerry cans from Leh as we are going from Howrah (Kolkata) to Jammu directly by Howrah Jammu Himgiri Exp. Is there any shop at Leh from where we can buy Jerry cans?
        3. As far as I know, ILP is required for the route from Nubra Vally to Pangong Tso via Wari La. Is it hard to get like Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri via Chusul ?
        4. I want to do some outdoor night photography at Hundar, Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri. So it is very important to me to know the approximate temperature at night (around 10 pm.) of that places . In overcast/normal weather, will it be below zero at that time ?
        5. If I borrow a bike from my friend (outside of our team) , what extra papers should we carry apart from Driving licence, Blue book etc. ?
        Waiting for your response. With regards
        Gautam.

        • Dear Gautam

          Please find my replies below:

          1. Currently there is schedule to cross Zoji La Pass. Traffic from Drass is allowed from 2 AM to 7 AM and from Sonamarg, 2 PM to 7 PM. But, as the season progress and snow disappear, the timings also gets relaxed.
          2. Sorry brother no idea about this one. May be you will get, else get 2 Ltrs Coke Bottles which are very much leak proof too.
          3. IMO ILP may not be required for Nubra Valley or Wari La. Regarding Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri it is very hard to get and recently many people were returned from the Chusul Checkpost even after having permits.
          4. It will not be below zero in night at this time of the year. Should be somewhere 5-8 deg C if I can guess.
          5. It will be difficult to ride it without issues as many bikes have been pounded recently. It has to be in your name or father’s name as per the rules laid by Bike Union of Leh.

          Regards
          Dheeraj

  77. Hi Dhiraj,
    Below is our iternary. Please confirm if this is good and also please post the link of route map if possible. Please also suggest places I should visit/avoid

    July 20: Start for Kargil. See the following on the way: Zoji La Pass,Nun-Kun mountains,suru valley,Tiger Hill View,Kargil War Memorial,Captain Hill. Night Hault at Kargil/Sankhoo

    July 21: Start for Leh:

    • War Memorials,Rock Art,Lamayuru Gompa,
    • Stupas
    • Magnetic Hill
    • Patharsaheb Gurudwara,Thiksay Monastery

    Reach leh and rest

    July 22: Leh to Nubra Valley via Khardungla. Visiting Turtuk, Hunder, Sand Dunes, Deskit (if Possible we would like to see Panamik too). Stay in tent camp at Sand Dunes near Hunder

    July 23: Nubra Valley to Pangong Lake. Night stay at Pangong

    To take either of the below routes:

    1.Diskit – Khalsar – Agham – Tangyar – Wari La – Tathok – Sakti – Chang La – Durbuk – Tangste – Lukung – Spangmik.

    2.Diskit – Khalsar – Agham – Shyok Village – Durbuk – Tangste – Lukung – Spangmik.

    July 24: Pangong Lake -Marsimek La and back to Leh

    July 25: Leh to Tso-Moiri via Chusul /Chang La pass

    July 26: travel to Sarchu Via Tso-Kar lake

    July 27: Sarchu to Manali via rohang pass

    Thanks,
    Joy

    • Hi Joy,

      To get an idea of the routes in Ladakh along with distances, you can refer: DoW – Maps of Ladakh | Nubra Valley & Changthang. Keep in mind that, the remote routes are isolated and completely off track with almost no roads. Better stick to traditional routes in case it is the first trip to Ladakh.

      To get an idea of the route map of Srinagar – Leh Highway, you can refer: DoW – Maps of Ladakh | Srinagar – Kargil – Leh

      You do not need to go to Chusul from Leh to visit Tso Moriri. Go via Chumathang. And to take Wari La route, please be very sure about your vehicle condition as the route is desolated and any help in case required will be hard to find in miles. Also, you MUST add one day of acclimatization in Leh for sure before moving to Nubra Valley.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  78. Gautam Kumbhakar on

    Dear Dhiraj
    Below is our (5 men & 3 bikes of our own) tour programme.I want your advice about this.
    Aug 3 Arrived Jammu station at
    12-30 pm. Go to Katra &
    visit Mata Vaishnodevi.
    (One way by Helicopter).
    O/N at Katra.
    Aug 4 Katra to Srinagar. O/N at
    Srinagar.
    Aug 5 Srinagar to Kargil. O/N
    at Kargil.
    Aug 6 Kargil to Leh. O/N at Leh
    Aug 7 Leh to Takthok Monastery
    to see the festival, en-
    route Hemis, Shey,Thiksey
    etc. O/N at Leh.
    Aug 8 Leh to Dah to Leh.O/N at
    Leh.
    Aug 9 Leh-Khardung La-Turtuk.
    O/N at Hundar.
    Aug 10 Hundar-Khalsar-Panamik.
    O/N at Khalsar.
    Aug 11 Khalsar-Agham-Wari La-
    Karu (for Petrol)
    Tangtse-Pangong Tso.
    O/N at Spangmik.
    Aug 12 Rest Day.O/N at Spangmik.
    Aug 13 Pangong Tso-Chusul-
    Kaksang La-Mahe-Tso
    Moriri. O/N at Korzok.
    Aug 14 Tso Moriri-Tso Kar-Morey
    Plain-Sarchu. O/N at
    Sarchu.
    Aug 15 Sauchu-Keylong-Manali-
    Kullu. O/N at Kullu.
    Aug 16 Kullu-Shimla-Kalka.
    Train at 11-55 pm.
    Please advise me if there is any fault & error.
    With regards.
    Gautam

    • Gautam, you need to carry a lot of fuel first for the routs you are attempting. Then you cannot come back to Hundar from Turtuk the same day, you will come next day. Finally, Regarding Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri route or Pangong Tso to Hanle, the permits to Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga or remote Changthang routes are being given by DC office in Leh at ON and OFF basis, so keep your fingers crossed and hope for the best if they start issuing the permits by the time you visit or issue you on your lucky day. Also, even if the permits are given then as well there is no guarantee that you will be allowed to cross Chusul Post or not because last year several such incidents happened and people with permits also had to return via same route. All this will mean that you will have to risk it for at least a day getting wasted if you are not allowed because there will be no guarantee until you cross Chusul and Tsaga post. Otherwise, you have to take the traditional routes only via Leh.

      Rest looks OK

    • Hello Nitish & Angad,

      First of all a big salute to you guys and your spirit of Travel, heroes like you are real inspiration to many brothers. Hats Off… I can assist in whatever manner I can and I have seen people doing the Ladakh trip in such conditions too. In fact in delhi the Spinal Injury hospital takes people to Ladakh trip for the high level of motivation it provides to live life. You guys are all ready doing wonders with your travel, so you can really possibly do this trip and DoW in any manner can assist you to live this trip for you both. You have sufficient time on hands too, so please don’t feel worry and start planning the trip.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      Sorry for the late reply, was just bogged down to some personal stuff…

      • NItish & Angad on

        we wamt to know can srinagar leh and its nearby locations(gulmarg,pahalgam,kargil drass lamayaru mon.diskit,hunder,sumur,nubra pangong tso,tsomoriri and all other places) are muddy/sleepery.and please send the cheapest & best iternity for our visit.we make our plan but how can i send this to you for amendment pls.

        • NItish & Angad on

          can ATM in kargil leh diskit Hunder,Pangong TSo moriri ? if no Than how all manage their expences?

        • There will be an ATM in Kargil and in Leh only. No where else in Ladakh you will find ATMs. There is no phone as well at Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri.

    • Dheeraj,
      we are planing in 5 of sep.2015 to go zanskar for 12 days . Can it is sutaible time for going their for us. Last time we enjoy pahalgam, Gulmarg, srinagar leh route ,diskit hunder, nubra (maan vilage), so-moriri, and leh manali route.

        • Dheeraj,
          i also wants to become a part of Zanskar mega meet, can it possible? I am ready to go with this mega meet. Please advise me as early as possible.

        • So sorry on that front brother as all the teams are finalized and shuffling will not be possible unless someone drops out. I will keep you posted in case someone drops out.

        • Dheeraj,
          i also want to join Zanskar mega meet pls suggest to me can it possible for H/P. If i will a part of that its a my memorable event in whole life. So please inform me as early as possible to end my exitment. Please early reply.

        • Dheeraj,
          mujhe late pata chala is event ka . gar maine pahle se dhyan diya hota to aaj yah sthiti nahi aati.isi vazah se maine plan kiye huve samay 5 sep ke liye apane shathi angad ke sath aarakshan bhee karaa liya tha. lekin kinhi kaarano se mere mitr angad ka is varsh ka program radd ho gaya hai .” ISI LIYE MAINE SOCHA SHAYAD AAP LOGO KE SAATH MUJHE BHI PRAKRITI KE RANGIN AHASAS KO CHHUNE KA EK ALAG HI AANAND LENE AVASAR MILEGA TO SHAYAD JINDAGI KI RAAHE KUCHH DUR KE LIYE aasaan ho JAAYENGI. koi baat nahi gar aaplogo ke sath jaane na mila to bhi is baar mai akele hi jaa kar is prograam ko complit karne ki koshis karunga. mujhe nahi pataa yah sahi kadam hoga yaa nahi?

        • Nick, agar tum wait kar sakte ho to please do. Koi bhi apna program cancel karta hai and agar wahan seat hoti hai us team mein, to main tumhe sabse pehle bataunga. Dun worry.

  79. Hi Dheeraj!

    I have planned a trip to ladakh this month between 26th to 3rd Aug all alone. 25th afternoon i am starting from hyderabad and will be reaching delhi by 4:30 P.M.same evening i am boarding a bus to manali.So i will reach manali on 26th morning. Planning to rent a bike and then start to ladakh on 27th early morning. would like to visit Phugtal Monastery, Nubra valley,tso moriri, pan gong lake, spite valley and other important places. So please help me out with a travel plan with your travel experience. I have a return flight scheduled on 3rd aug.

    • Santosh, Phugtal monastery is in Zanskar Valley and you will not be able to visit it in such a short time on hand. In fact even Ladakh only will not be able to be covered in such less number of days. From where do you have your return flight?

      • hi dheeraj,
        i have my return flight from LEH to delhi on 3rd of august. My plan is continuous journey i.e. the first day in LEH i will cover all the places in and around LEH so that i need not come back to LEH again in-between the journey.eg: if i visit tso morori then after stay i will travel from there directly to my next destination whichever it might be rather than travelling back to LEH again. Hope you understood what i am trying to convey.

        Thanks in advance
        Santosh

        • Santosh, this does not happen in Ladakh. After you reach form arduous journey fighting AMS on Manali – Leh Highway, you MUST rest in Leh for more acclimatization of High altitude. Hence out of 7 effective days that you have, 3 days are gone. So, if you start from Manali on 27th morning, 28th evening you will reach Leh. 29th rest day and then in remaining 4 days you can make two days trip to Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso each. You cannot fit Tso Moriri here. Also, consider the one way rental of bike too, it costs huge.

        • Ooppss…sorry.Forgot about the AMS and climatization. Will keep this in mind and make sure to visit only two places which i can accordingly. Is there any route from Nubra to pan gong and then pangong tso to tso moriri directly so that i need not go back to LEH again? If it is, then what is the route and do i need any permissions for those routes?

          Thanks and in Advance

        • There are direct routes from Nubra to Pangong Tso but they are desolated and not suggested if traveling with one vehicle as if you get stranded then there is no help in miles. Wari La is less desolated that Shyok one, so if you are game for such a risk, then you can take the Wari La route which is quite long. Then regarding Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri, you need permits for the route and even if you will have permits army in general case sends people back from Chusul post there by it may spoil your one day instead of saving them.

        • Hi Dheeraj,

          Thank you very much for the information provided. This trip of my lifetime that i have planned, wouldn’t have been possible without your blog. Information about permits, rented bikes, routes and what not, your blog has information related to everything about the trip. I sincerely thank you for this and please continue doing this good work.

          Regards
          Santosh

        • thank you for the best wishes and for sure I will try my level best to executes your initiatives 🙂

  80. Hello Dheeraj,
    We are in Manali, just want to confirm if the bikes rented in Manali are allowed in Leh or not?.

    Can you please clarify on this please.

    Thanks in advance

    • Ankit, well last I heard was that there were two bikes that were pounded in Leh and were rented outside. This all gave decent trouble to the bikers from South. So, kindly 100% confirm before renting it from Manali.

  81. Binu Pillai on

    We are a group of 4 , reaching srinagar on July 18th and returning in 27th.

    Also please note we are doing high altitude bike ride for first time.
    Plan is to hire two bikes from srinagar and start the journey.
    18th – cochin – srinagar srinagar
    19th – plannning for stay in kargil
    20th – stay in leh
    21-24 – sight seeing in leh
    25- leh to kargil
    26 – kargil to srinagar
    27- srinagar to cochin

    I need your help to plan the days in leh.
    As we are renting a bike from srinagar(saw in article that outside bikes are not allowed in leh)- how to proceed our journey? And more over we need our journey in bike.

    can we use manali route on our way return?
    Does this give enough time for the journey?

    Could you please advise?

    • Binu, do you know someone who give bikes for hire in Srinagar? AFAIK, I do not think there are any bike rentals in Srinagar yet or at least till last year there was none. Also, I am not sure why you are taking this trip in this way that you are just touching the town of Leh and coming back. I will advice you stick to Kashmir in that case to better enjoy it at least.

      • Binu Pillai on

        Hi Dheeraj,

        Thanks for your reply

        I got a contact who can rent bike for us.
        Myself also prefer to stay with route mentioned by you.

        However could you advise if eight days starting/ending from Srinagar will be sufficient cover the area.
        And I doubt if it can be reachable within this span of 8 days.
        Also if you could help me with minimum days required to cover sri – leh – manali – srinagar via bike, it will be great.
        By the way i searched to find the link in blog, unfortunately i couldn’t.

        If you could share your contact i can call you.

        • Binu, it takes 2 days to reach Leh from Srinagar to Leh, then 1 day rest in Leh, then 2 day trip to Nubra Valley, 2 day trip to Pangong Tso and then 3 day trip to Leh – Tso Moriri – Sarchu – Manali route. So, total of 10 days required. In case you plan to skip Tso Moriri, you can save one day and if you do day trip to Pangong Tso, you save another day to make it 8.

  82. Dear Dheeraj, Please suggest your comments on the itinerary below.
    20-07-2014 SRINAGAR Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass KARGIL
    21-07-2014 KARGIL Lamayuru LEH
    22-07-2014 LEH Khardung La – Diskit (NUBRA VALLEY) HUNDER
    23-07-2014 HUNDER Warli la- Chang la – Tangtse Pangong Tso Lake
    24-07-2014 Pangong Tso Lake Merak Tso Moriri 
    25-07-2014 Tso Moriri  Chumathang- Upshi LEH
    26-07-2014 LEH Chumathang KARGIL
    27-07-2014 KARGIL Chumathang SRINAGAR

    Please let me know if inner permit will be required if I plan to go to Tso Moriri directly from Pangong Tso. Thanks in advance.

    • Yes, Satya, you will need permits to travel directly from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri. Even with permits, nothing is sure that army will allow you to pass through the checkpost or not. Also, the above itinerary is hell lot of hectic and how are you going to manage the fuel over this entire circuit. The fuel pump is in Leh or Karu only.

      • Thanks for your comments. Can you suggest some changes in the itinerary considering the start and finish as fixed. By the way we will have a SUV like captiva in hand right from Srinagar And we are a 4 young guys. I hope own vehicle is allowed.

  83. Hello!

    If I read correctly, foreigners now can take following route from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri? I understand that I have a chance not to get permit and/or not allowed to cross Chusul Post.

    Spangmik-Man-Merak-Chusul-Tsaga-Loma-Nyoma-Mahe-Sumdo-Korzok

    Thank you in advance.

  84. i really appreciate about your blog dheeraj,

    what it can be the best route to go without any permission required…. for pangong to tsomoriri directly?

    please suggest me the route if i want to travel leh-pangong-tsomoriri-leh

    thanks and regards

    • Hardik, inorder to visit Tso Moriri without permits from Pangong Tso, you need to back track towards Leh till Karu over Chang La pass, then from there take left turn towards Upshi then to Chumathang – Mahe – Sumdo and finally to Tso Moriri. I will advice you to start early and take a call to stay at chumathang or go ahead till Tso Moriri if you have time.

  85. Hey Dheeraj,
    I’m planning a trip to Ladakh for the first two weeks of this october. I’m planning on visiting Leh and surroundings and Tso Moriri as well as Pangong Tso. I want to reach Leh by plane and maybe leave via the route to manali and visiting the lakes on the way. Do you think it is possible at this time of the year? Should I plan all in advance or can I be spontaneous (book once there accordingly to weather) without exploding my budget? Will I be abble to find some none luxury accommodation near the lakes? And do I need to fill the applications as a non Indian tourist in 2014?

    • Marion, October is not a good time to be at Manali – Leh Highway. Check: 5 Reasons to Avoid Manali – Leh Highway in October

      In October, there is no advance booking required anywhere in Ladakh. At Pangong Tso, Himalayan Wooden cottages may be running and rest will be closed. At Tso Moriri, you will only find guest houses. And yes, being a foreigner you have to apply for PAP (Protected Area Permits)

  86. Hai Dheeraj,

    Thanks a lot for your detailed information. We are from Karnataka Mountaineering Association. During July-Augst 2014, we will be trekking in Hemis region. There after (from Leh) we will be visiting Nubra Valley. Kindly clarify the following points:

    1. I believe to travel up to Panamik, we don’t need any permits.

    2. Few of us (might be four) want to travel up to the base camp of Siachen. Is there any permit required? And if yes, how to take it? A detailed reply on this point will be very helpful to us.

    Thanks in advance

    BP Bhat

    • Hello BP,

      1. Yes, you do not need any permits till Panamik being Indian Nationals.
      2. Yes, permission is required for Siachen Base camp which can only be given from Army headquarters AFAIK or in MHA, Delhi. I do not think you can get permissions to it easily and need to have sound case why you want to visit that region and explain it to someone high up in army who can grant you the permissions.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  87. Hi,
    I have been religiously following DOW to understand Leh Ladakh Travel and finally planned from 20 June – 5 July covering Srinagar, Leh, Nubra, Pangong, Moriri and Manali and back to Delhi. My only concern left over if about applying and getting permits. Please help.

    • Hitesh, starting this year you do not need any permits as Indian Nationals for regular tourist destinations in Ladakh including Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Nubra Valley through regular routes.

      Please read the section of Update: May 2014 in the above article for more details on this newly introduced procedure.

      Are you planning to visit any non-tourist route?

      • NItish & Angad on

        Hi Dheeraj
        we are from the Nagpur. Me & my frnd Angad (both phy.challngd per.i use cruches my left leg amputed above knee total in accident & my frnds left leg below knee he use artificial German foot & always help me in travelling in tourist places) want to see Srinagar(including pahalgam,gulmarg with gondola(cable car) Leh Ladhakh Manali. from jammu 18-08-2014 to manali 03-10-2014. Can we travel in this physical conditions. PLease Help us for our imagination.

        • Hello Nitish & Angad,

          First of all a big salute to you guys and your spirit of Travel, heroes like you are real inspiration to many brothers. Hats Off… I can assist in whatever manner I can and I have seen people doing the Ladakh trip in such conditions too. In fact in delhi the Spinal Injury hospital takes people to Ladakh trip for the high level of motivation it provides to live life. You guys are all ready doing wonders with your travel, so you can really possibly do this trip and DoW in any manner can assist you to live this trip for you both. You have sufficient time on hands too, so please don’t feel worry and start planning the trip.

          Regards
          Dheeraj

          Sorry for the late reply, was just bogged down to some personal stuff.

  88. Ashish Jain on

    Hi Dheeraj,
    Firt thanx for giving such good informations & help everybody.
    We are visting shreenagar to leh & our programme is reaching srinagar at 3 pm on 27 June.
    Hire a car 7 leave for Baltal.
    on 28 June we go for Amarnath Darshan by pittu 7 try to come bake by night. Night Stay in sonmarg.
    On 29th early morning leave for LEH.
    And our return ticket from srinagar ia on 05 July 2014 at 2 pm.
    Pls suggest us in between programme.
    Also help us in hire A car (A/c or Non A/c (for 6 persons)from srinagar to srinagar with a driver who show us the leh properly.
    Thanx

      • Ashish Jain on

        Hi Dheeraj,
        Yes 1 day is enough for Amarnath Yatra from Baltal by Horse.
        After that from 29th June morning we want to leave for Leh by car from Sonmarg.
        Also if possible please help us to rent a car.

  89. Hi Dheeraj, can you please upload the 2014 Inner line permit form because the sample forms are 2013 ! Or if can forward a link to the 2014 form will be grateful to you!!!

    • JKB, unless you traveling the non tourist routes to Ladakh you do not need any permits starting this year in case you are an Indian. Otherwise, if you plan to take non – tourist places, then you can use the same permit form as it does not change every year unless it is that the only year it changed 😀

      • Hi Dheeraj, I have had a detailed discussion with Mr. Mehboob Ali, Asst Tourism Director, Leh, on Phone in which he stated i ll be need the permits for the routes i ll b travelling on i.e.

        :
        1. Passing through Wari La route from Nubra towards Chang La to Pangong

        2. From Lukung to Marsemik La

        3. From Pangong to Hanle via Chushul and Nyoma

        4. Hanle to Moriri via twin Lake of Tso Chilling and Ryul.

        If you can give me some advice into this, will really appreciate bro! n ya i m an Indian National!

        • He is aboslutely right, you will need permits. For 2,3,4 even with permits there is no guaranteed passage allowed and army can send you back from any post 🙂

        • I am not sure if there is any update to the form in 2014. Till now we have been using these forms only as mentioned in the article above.

    • Nicco, All foreign nationals, NRIs having PIOs or OCIs need PAP (Protected Area Permit) to visit Inner Line areas of Ladakh which has been now waived of for Indian Nationals starting May 2014 only. He/she must be in a group of 2 or more fioreigners and PAP must be applied at DC Office with required fees through a registered Travel Agent in Leh. Also, go through the thread in DwD Community: Inner Line Permit and application letter for foreigners

      Permit for citizens of Pakistan, China, Afghanistan, Bangladesh and Burma are issued by the Ministry of Home Affairs (MHA) and permits for those people who are on diplomatic or official VISA are issued by the Ministry of External Affairs (MEA) in Delhi. 

      Registered travel agents will help with the groups if you are a single traveler and you do not necessarily need to travel with the group after you get the permit.

  90. prashant kabadwal on

    Hi Dheeraj,
    Great job in helping everyone with planning and latest updates.
    I’m planning a 5 people Srinagar-Leh-Srinagar trip with below itinerary:-
    June 13 – Reach Srinagar(flight)… book jeep/SUV/bike … stay
    June 14 – Srinagar – Sonamarg – Drass – Kargil
    June 15 – Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
    June 16 – Leh – Nubra Valley – Leh
    June 17 – Leh – Pangong Tso
    June 18 – Pangong Tso – Leh
    June 19-20-21 – Leh – Srinagar
    Kindly check and confirm if we should modify anything. I’m also following the main thread on banning of outside bikes. Outside rented cars are definately allowed for sightseeing in Ladakh..please confirm

    • Prashant, no outside rented cars are also not allowed in Leh since beginning, AFAIK. Regarding itinerary, I feel you should just visit Khardung La and return to Leh on June 16. You are not acclimatized and doing such a long journey is not recommended. Even I will not recommend Khardung La but you can judge your condition and take a chance. Better rest in Leh for at least a day before traveling to places in Ladakh.

  91. amit parui on

    hi Dheeraj ! how r u ? give me 5 days itineray plan for leh ladak, i want to travelling by road from baltal/sonmarg, after darshan of baba amarnath. i have return railway ticket from jammu tawai, pls give me urs advice, thanks

    • 5 days travel to Leh? Mode of Transport? It will take 2 days to reach Leh from Sonamarg usually. 2 days to come back and one day further to Jammu. So, that completes the 5 days brother.

  92. Dheeraj Sharma,

    Hello, Any update on rented bikes outside J&k being allowed there? Planning a 20 day trip in June.

  93. Chetan Bhardwaj on

    HI Dheeraj, We are planing to Leh Ladakh in mid of June(i.e Next month). Just want to confirm if Hired vehicles(Bikes on rent from Delhi) are allowed to be taken to places like Hunder/Sumur/Khandurg La/Tso morri/Pangong..I have heard that to few places only your own vehicles(On riders name)are allowed from Leh.Else we need to hire it from Leh itself. Would be great if you can provide some clarity on the sameThanks. Cheers!!

    • Hi Chetan,

      Bikes rented outside Leh are not allowed for sightseeing inside Ladakh except Tso Moriri and Tso Kar lakes which can be done while going to Manali from Leh. Private bikes are completely allowed. You can use the outside rented bike to reach Leh but then for going to Pangong Tso, nubra Valley, etc.. you need to hire rented bikes from Leh only.

      To know more about this rule and present situation, please refer the link: Bikes Rented Outside Leh Banned in Ladakh

      Since, this is the first time rule is getting implemented no one is sure what will happen or what will not. I personally feel larger groups will be targetted more than smaller groups or individuals.

      For renting bikes in Leh – Ladakh, you can check the DwD Community thread: Leh – Ladakh Bike Rental Rates 2014 – 15 & Reliable Shops

      Sorry I was on trip to Chansal Pass – Pabbar Valley to celebrate DwD Community’s first B’day and hence could not reply earlier 😉

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Hi we would be in Leh with bikes from Manali in July end. I am just curious if we can take the bikes and our back up vehicle (tourist vehicle) to Khardungla which is just about 40kms from leh. please advise. Also if you could let me know can we do Leh-Pangong and back in 2 days i.e 1 to go to Pangong and 2nd to return to Leh

        • Bikes rented outside Leh are not allowed for sightseeing inside Ladakh except Tso Moriri and Tso Kar lakes which can be done while going to Manali from Leh. Private bikes are completely allowed. You can use the outside rented bike to reach Leh but then for going to Pangong Tso, nubra Valley, etc.. you need to hire rented bikes from Leh only.

          To know more about this rule and present situation, please refer the link: Bikes Rented Outside Leh Banned in Ladakh

          Since, this is the first time rule is getting implemented no one is sure what will happen or what will not. I personally feel larger groups will be targetted more than smaller groups or individuals.

          For renting bikes in Leh – Ladakh along with current Bike Union Prices, you can check the DwD Community thread: Leh – Ladakh Bike Rental Rates 2014 – 15 & Reliable Shops

          Else you can take the bikes and if backup vehicle is private number, no issues then. Also, 2 day pangong tso trip can be done.

  94. sanjay negi on

    dheeraj I am planning to do Pangong-Chusul-Hanle-Loma-Mahe-Tso Moriri on 17/june on a xuv….is it all right? time and vehicle??

    • Sanjay, Regarding Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri route or Pangong Tso to Hanle, the permits to Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga or remote Changthang routes are being given by DC office in Leh at ON and OFF basis, so keep your fingers crossed and hope for the best if they start issuing the permits by the time you visit or issue you on your lucky day. Also, even if the permits are given then as well there is no guarantee that you will be allowed to cross Chusul Post or not because last year several such incidents happened and people with permits also had to return via same route. All this will mean that you will have to risk it for at least a day getting wasted if you are not allowed because there will be no guarantee until you cross Chusul and Tsaga post. Otherwise, you have to take the traditional routes only via Leh.

      XUV should be good to go with careful driving.

  95. amit parui on

    hi ! dheeraj on 4 july 2014 my 2 friends got permission for ammarnath yatra,1 more friend got permission on 5 july2014, i personaly got permission on 6 july 2014. so we alltogether allow for ammarnath yatra on 4 july ? pls give me urs advice.

  96. Hi, I’m Joehan from Malaysia. I’m going to visit Leh on June 2014 with my friends. We are going to Leh via Srinagar- Leh highway. From the article, I just want to re-confirm my understanding.
    1. At Ladakh, we just plan to visit Pangong Tso and Leh local sightseeing. Hence, for Inner Line Permit, we just have to state Pangong Tso only? Is there any other location in between Leh- Pangong Tso that we have to declare?
    2. With regards to the following statement, “Permits are now also issued for Kargil – Khangral – Chiktan & Dah – Garkone – Darchik – Batalik – Slimo – Kargil routes”,new permit is issued for the mentioned route. As for my trip, we just use Srinagar- Leh highway, there is no permit to be applied. Am I correct?

    Appreciate your reply guys. Cheers 🙂

    • Hello joehan,

      1. Yes, you just need to state Pangong Tso if you are visiting only Pangong Tso.
      2. Yes, there is no permit required to travel from Srinagar to Leh or Leh to Manali.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      • Hi Dheeraj,

        Thanks. 1 more question. As per ILP that attached, it looks like that the sample is for Indian citizens as it stated there “the following Indian citizens are permitted to visit…”. Is the permit same for foreign tourist? Or there is another different permit for tourist?

        Thanks.

        • Yes, for foreigners it is Protected Area Permit which should be applied in a group of 2 or more through registered travel agent in Leh. Please refer the article: Inner Line Permit and application letter for foreigners

  97. We plan to follow following route:
    Tso Moriri – Tso Kyagar – Sumdo -Puga Hotsprings – Tso Kar – Debring – Taglang La – Rumste – Upshi – Karu – Leh

    Do I need ILP to visit Tso kar and other places on this route?

    • Shrusti, Inner Line Permits are not required in Ladakh for any of the tourist places and traditional routes to them anymore. Tso Kar anyways never required a permit. So, short answer is “No permits are required”