Many times I get questions about traveling on the direct route from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri in one day without coming back to Leh. Today I am going to talk about this topic and will summarize the tips for traveling on this direct route from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri. It will help you understand this route in detail and how it can help you save time along with associated risks.

5 Direct Routes – Nubra Valley to Pangong Lake to Tso Moriri | Offbeat Ladakh Road Trip | Kaksang La

Well, to start with the answer to the basic question “Can I travel from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri directly without coming back to Leh“? Then, the answer is “Yes”, there exists a direct route to travel from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri.

Tips for traveling from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri directly
Tips for traveling from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri directly

Download your FREE high-resolution version pdf copy of the infographic guide about tips for traveling from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri directly. If, you liked it and found it helpful, please feel free to share it with your family and friends to help them too.

I have already talked about the road conditions of the direct route from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri. As you know the road conditions are not that great between Pangong Tso – Chusul with most of the route being a dirt track all the way up to Tsaga La pass. It is a bumpy ride or drive up to Tsaga La and then improves almost up to Tso Kiagar ahead of Sumdo village when nearing Tso Moriri lake.

Apart from that, I always suggest everyone keep in mind that all the remote routes in Ladakh are isolated and most are dirt roads. Better stick to the traditional routes in case it is your first trip to Ladakh to avoid the uncertainties of different kinds on these unconventional routes in Ladakh 😉 …

To get a more detailed understanding of the routes in Ladakh along with distances, you can also refer to DwD – Maps of Ladakh | Nubra Valley & Changthang. As you can see in the DwD maps of Ladakh there exist a couple of routes to travel to Tso Moriri from Pangong Tso directly. I will talk about both of them in detail one by one for you. 

Can you spot any road? Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri Direct Route
Can you spot any road? Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri Direct Route

Road Conditions – Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri Direct Route

Let us check these two routes in detail one by one.

1. Pangong Tso (Spangmik) – Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma – Mahe – Sumdo – Kiagar Tso – Tso Moriri (Korzok)

This is the first route we are going to talk about that runs along the shoreline of Pangong Tso Lake and then goes deep towards Tsaga La Pass, further to Loma-Nyoma, and meets at Mahe Bridge. Then, from Mahe onwards, it meets the conventional route of reaching Tso Moriri from Leh. You take the route further as Sumdo – Kiagar Tso – Tso Moriri after Mahe.

This route is mostly desolate but one of the most beautiful routes in Ladakh. And why not?? It runs along the shoreline of Pangong Tso Lake. A couple of sections of the roads between Tsaga La and Man-Merak are a bit tricky and some with quicksands. Small ground clearance vehicles can get stuck if you are careless when driving. So better be prepared with essential things to carry when you self-drive to Ladakh, especially with a hatchback and sedan. 

Then, Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma – Mahe is a well-laid tarmac where it will be easy to drive any kind of vehicle. Even the diversion road to Hanle from Loma is in very good condition barring a few patches in between. 

2. Pangong Tso (Spangmik) – Man – Merak – Chusul – Nama – Kaksang La – Horala – Mahe – Sumdo – Kiagar Tso – Tso Moriri (Karzok)

This route diverges from Chusul towards Kaksang La – Horala – Mahe, as you might have already seen in the DwD Maps of Ladakh. So, the road conditions of this route up to Chusul are the same as what we have already discussed.

The road conditions from Chusul towards Kaksang La pass are much better now with mostly tarmac roads. The ascend to Kaksang La from Nama side used to have sharp stones and it is similar on the other side of Kaksang La. However as of 2024, most of the route is now well-tarred. I remember from my 2015 trip, that those stones cut the tires of our car. We had to fit a Pajero tire in a Fortuner to save ourselves, somehow. Kaksang La to Horala and Horala to Mahe is all black tarmac too. So barring few patches in between, the road is good in condition.

You will be very very lucky to spot some soul on this route as no one takes this route being so desolate. Since 2022, the army has allowed tourists to travel beyond Nama and take this route. There will be no help around in miles in case required. So, travel in a group of at least 2-3 cars bikes.

Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri Direct Route
Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri Direct Route

Permits for Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri

As of 2022, permits are not required for domestic tourists to travel anywhere in Ladakh including Hanle, Umling La Pass, or even Demchok. You only need to pay the environment/green/ecology fee and carry a receipt of the payment. 

Indians do not need any permits anymore in Ladakh for regular sightseeing. You just need to pay the Ladakh Environment Fee on the website and carry the receipt of it. Here is the link where you need to pay it:

Current Ladakh environment fees are broken down as follows: 

  • Environment Fee = Rs 400 one time
  • Wildlife Fee/Something = Rs 20 per day
  • Red Cross Fee = Rs 50 one time but Optional, you don’t need to pay if you don’t want to.

DO NOT confuse the environment fee receipt with a permit. You just need to carry this fee receipt, hard copy, or soft copy. This receipt may be checked at some checkposts. Hence, people are confusing it with a permit but this is just verification that you have paid the fees. 

Again, please keep in mind that these routes are totally desolate and very few people travel on them. Hence, with no one around in miles of distance for any help, you must think twice and take a calculated risk only. 

A Ride alongside Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri
A Ride alongside Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri

Don’t have time to read the full article? Check this short video on Discover With Dheeraj YouTube Channel on these essential tips for traveling directly from Pangong Lake to Tso Moriri lake. If you like my video, please do not forget to SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel.

Video – Traveling from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri Directly


I hope knowing these direct routes from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri will help you assess the risk and make a call of either taking this route or going to Tso Moriri via the conventional route through Upshi or Chumathang. 

Have a travel question?? You can subscribe to my YouTube channel and leave a comment to ask your travel questions about traveling to the Himalayas.

Do you still have any questions or suggestions or need any help in planning your trip from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri? If yes, please feel free to post them either in the comments section of this article below or in the “Ask a Travel Question” section of the website.

I will be happy to hear from you on other suggestions about this wonderful route in Ladakh. Have you done this route?? Tell me what was your experience and help others travel better in Ladakh. Do not forget to share this article with your friends and family who are planning the trip to Ladakh.


I am Dheeraj Sharma - a traveler, techie, and Himalayan lover. Since 2009, I have been helping thousands of travelers every year plan memorable & budget-friendly trips to the Himalayas - Smartly, Safely, and responsibly.


  1. Comments section gets closed in 90 days. To ask your travel questions, you can follow my YouTube Channel for a faster reply or for a much slower reply follow me on Instagram. :)

  2. Dystakinanty on

    Good day, Dheeraj !!!

    So this is what u told me yesterday about foreigners are NOT allowed to take this route.
    I’m very understand now.

    Also have read some other blogs that informed us about such situation. The army, the border, the permit…. Ughhh !!!

    That’s why I should back to Leh first before take Tso Moriri

    Thank you Dheeraj, wish I could meet you and ur fams at the day I visit Leh


    • Hey Dysta,

      Thank you so much !! You can keep in touch at my Instagram Handle at @devilonwheels

      As of now I am in United States, so meeting in India or Leh will not be possible 🙂

  3. Hi Dheeraj,

    Very informative and I found all details which I need in all your articles. You are doing good work for new tourists and keep it up.

    I just have one question, since we are couple travelling from Sep 1st to Sep 9th. We wish to save those extra days in coming back from Nubra to leh and then again going to Pangong.

    Since we will be sharing a taxi. Is it possible to get a shared taxi from Nubra to Pangong , and Pangong to Tsomriri.


    • Thank you Abhinav. Now a day most many people do take the direct route from Nubra to Pangong Tso. So, you should be fine with it. But, Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri will be tough to get shared taxis.

  4. Hi Dheeraj, 

    Its time for Leh 2.0 🙂 this time we are adding Hanle and Tso Moriri, so it would be Leh-Karu(tank up)-Pangong Tso-Hanle, Hanle-Tso Moriri and then we heading to Pang/Manali. I have read a few blogs which states fuel availability in black in Durbuk. we plan to carry atleast 15-20 ltrs on each bike. just wanted to confirm if you have any info on Durbuk. if yes how reliable it is. Also if Karzok would have any fuel availability in black, so that we can top up.

    We plan to cover Marsimik La, so consider ~130km extra. I would love to cover Umling La as well but you know it would be over ambitious considering fuel availability.


    • Well, there are many villages that provides them including Durbuk, Chusul, Hanle, Chumathang but the problem is if someone else takes it before it wont be available. So, you cannot rely on just one single village. I agree adding too many things into the plan without fuel backup is not a good idea.

      • Thanks Dheeraj, I agree relying on one village doesnt make sense. I was not sure of Chusul or Chumathang for fuel availability. I guess would have to take some calculated risk 🙂

  5. piyush rawat on

    HI DHeeraj,

    Can you guide me the route for tso kar? I understood the route of tsomoriri from tsopangong..i want to go to sarchu after ques is will tsokar be on route?
    if not than how much will be the deviation? and can i go to Sarchu from Tsomoriri in one day after visiting Tsokar?

    • Piyush, you have to start from tso Moriri and reach a pillage called Sumdo on the way back to Mahe bridge, from that village you have to take a left instead of going towards Mahe bridge. Then you will continue to follow that road running through Puga – Poloklong La and reach Tso Kar. After few KMs ahead on the same route you will reach Manali – Leh Highway. Then take a left towards Sarchu. Please refer our maps.

  6. Amit Upadhyay on

    Hi, We have prepared an itinerary for Leh – Pangong Tso – Chusul – Tso Moriri – Leh in 3 days.
    Day 1: Leh – Pangong Tso (stay at Spangmik)
    Day 2: Pangong Tso (Spangmik) – Chusul – Tso Moriri (stay at Tso Moriri)
    Day 3: Tso Moriri – Leh
    Kindly accord whether these routes are OK.
    We are traveling on Aug 20,21,22 2017 through this route.
    The major concern for this route is fuel as it is very long travel of around 650kms. with only petrol pump at Leh. We will rent Bullet 500 which has 13.5 ltrs. tank only and load will of driver + pillion + one travel bag. Suggest what mileage we can expect on this route with Bullet 500 and also how much fuel extra we have to carry, is it feasible to carry so much fuel while driving through dirt roads?
    Also inform us about the dog problem in Changthang Valley, I have heard they attack people! How serious is this problem? Whether we should drop this route due to dog problem!?
    I have visited Leh – Pangong – Leh in single day in 2015 and your forum has been a great help to us during our last trip as well. Kindly address our issues, it will be a great help. Thanks.. Regards, Amit Upadhyay

  7. Harshwardhan Bhadang on

    Hello Dheeraj,

    We are planning to take the direct route from pangong to Tso Morriri.

    We are a group of 12 and will also have a backup vehicle with us. We have a little concern regarding crossing the chushul pass. Can you update the current status whether people are allowed to cross or not?

    Also, what is the current road conditions of this route?


  8. Hi Dheeraj.
    Pl suggest whether we should go from pangong to tso morriri directly or via Leh as via Leh we will spend one extra day And pl. suggest route from tso morriri to Manali with best stay option. We are 5family members age 20 to 50 years travelling by Pajero sports. We will be in pangong on 1 or 2 June. Will Leh Manali highway open till 4-5 June.

    • If you do not have a constraint on days, for a family trip, I will strongly suggest coming back to Leh and then taking the route to Tso Moriri. Leh – Manali Highway should be open by end of May.

  9. Hi Dheeraj,
    I am visiting Leh next month for 5 days. My itinerary is as follows (8th-13th May)
    Day 1- Del to Leh by air, spend the day in Leh.
    Day 2- Leh-Alchi-Lamayuru-Leh
    Day 3- Leh-Nubra
    Day 4- Nubra-Pangong OR Nubra-Tso Moriri (if its feasible)
    Day 5- Back to Leh
    Day 6- Leh-Delhi
    I would like to know if this itinerary is fine and other one about traveling to Tso Moriri from Nubra. I have already been to Pangong and this time I really want to visit Tso Moriri.
    Thank you

    • Hi Tara,

      Drop Tso Moriri as it is not feasible. On direct route from Nubra to Pangong Tso, please make sure that you have some company as it is a desolated route. So, in case of mechanical failure or any other issue, other vehicles can help each other. Nubra to Tso Moriri is not feasible. You need to add a day more.

  10. HI Dheeraj
    we 40f family are visiting leh from jalandhar to leh on 28 may by pajero sports 4 by 4 as per itenry
    28 may jalandhar to srinagar
    29 may srinagar to kargil
    30 may kargil to leh
    1 june leh to nubra
    2 june nubra to pangong
    3 june pangong to tso moriri
    4 june tso moriri to kelong
    5 june kelong to kaza
    6 june kaza to kalpa
    7 june kalpa to simla
    8 june simla to jalandhar
    please suggest if ok we are frequent travellers to lef 4 times but never made such hectic schedule before
    we have srictly this periob only 28 may to 8 june
    pl suggest better itenry we can drop kaza this time

    • You should do it like below:

      8 may jalandhar to srinagar
      29 may srinagar to kargil
      30 may kargil to leh
      1 june leh rest day and permits
      2 june leh to nubra
      3 june nubra to pangong
      4 june pangong to Leh
      5 june Leh to Tso Moriri
      6 june Tso Moriri to Sarchu
      7 june Sarchu to Manali
      8 june Manali to Jalandhar

  11. Hi dheeraj,

    I am planning bike trip to Leh with my wife in June, 2017. We will be doing solo ride. Below is my itinerary. Kindly provide your suggestions on it.

    D1-Delhi to Manali (560km, around 14hrs)
    D2-Manali rest and local sightseeing
    D3-Manali to Jispa (140km, around 6-7hrs)
    D4-Jispa to Leh(340km, around 12-14hrs)
    D5-Leh rest and local sightseeing
    D6-Leh to Dah (188km, 5-6hrs)…covering Sham Valley circuit
    D7-Dah to Leh (188km, 5-6hrs)
    D8-Leh to Turtuk (205km, around 8-9hrs)
    D9-Turtuk to Hunder (85km, around 3-4hrs)
    D10-Hunder to Pangong (250km, around 6-7hrs). This would be via Agam-Shyok route and rest will be at Manik village
    D11-Pangong to Tso-Moriri (330km, 9-10hrs)…via Chusul-Tsaga-Nyoma-Mahe
    D12-Tso-Moriri rest
    D13-Tso-Moriri to Sarchu (230km, 9-10hrs)
    D14-Sarchu to Manali (225km, 7-8hrs)
    D15-Manali rest
    D16-Manali to Delhi (13-14hrs)

    • On Day 11, add Hanle instead of Tso Moriri rest. Your plan looks possible but for direct routes, please make sure you have a company with you as they are desolated routes. Also, you will need to arrange for permits and ensure have enough fuel always.

      • Thanks Dheeraj. How is the plan looking now?

        D1-Delhi to Manali (560km, around 14hrs)
        D2-Manali rest and local sightseeing
        D3-Manali to Jispa (140km, around 6-7hrs)
        D4-Jispa to Leh(340km, around 12-14hrs)
        D5-Leh rest and local sightseeing
        D6-Leh to Dah (188km, 5-6hrs)…covering Sham Valley circuit
        D7-Dah to Leh (188km, 5-6hrs)
        D8-Leh to Turtuk (205km, around 8-9hrs)
        D9-Turtuk to Hunder (85km, around 3-4hrs)
        D10-Hunder to Pangong (250km, around 6-7hrs). This would be via Agam-Shyok route and rest will be at Merak village
        D11-Pangong to Leh (150km, 5-6hrs)
        D12-Leh to Tso-Moriri (220km, 6-7hrs) via Upshi
        D13-Tso-Moriri to Pang/Sarchu (300/380km, 9-10/12-13hrs) via Upshi
        D14-Pang/Sarchu to Kullu (340/260km, 8-10hrs). Doesnt want to stay in Manali again
        D15-Kullu to Chandigarh (270km, 8-10hrs). Have to meet a friend.
        D16-Chandigarh to Delhi (5-6hrs)

        Is the route from Hunder to Pangong via Agam Shyok desolate too?

        Also pls let me know cell phone connectivity (I have Airtel) in Pang, Sarchu, Turtuk, Pangong and Tso-Moriri.

        Which are the places I can visit on Day 5 which will not be covered in rest of the days? I know Shanti stupa is one, any other inputs?

  12. Bhaskar Roy on


    We are a group of 2 people from Kolkata – having a plan to visit Ladakh by early Sept’17.

    The brief itinerary is as below.

    Day 1 : Manali to Keylong

    Day 2 : Stay at Keylong – local sight seeing

    Day 3 : Keylong – Leh

    Day 4 : Stay at Leh – local sight seeing

    Day 5 : Leh – Nubra

    Day 6 : Stay at Nubra – Nubra sight seeing

    Day 7 : Nubra – Pangong

    Day 8 : Pangong – Tsomoriri

    Day 9 : Tsomoriri – Leh

    Day 10 : Leh – Lamayuru

    Day 11 : Lamayuru – Leh

    Day 12 : Fly back from Leh

    My queries are :

    1. I need to stay half day at Manali – therefore can I start Manali to Keylong journey post 12PM?

    2. After a day stay at Keylong for sight seeing [as indicated in the plan], can I go to Tsomoriri directly, or still is it harmful for health?

    3. Which car is more suitable for this journey? Last year we have traveled Lahaul-Spitti-Chandratal with an innova.

    Also please let me know if you have any specific concern on the above itinerary.


    Bhaskar Roy,
    Kolkata – 77

    • Hello Bhaskar,

      1. Well, yes, you should be able to reach Keylong by 7 PM. Better stay at Jispa to cut short the journey by an hour next day.
      2. You should not go to Tso Moriri: 5 reasons not to visit Tso Moriri from Manali side
      3. Innova shall be fine with experienced driver.

      All the details about the direct routes of Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri and Nubra to Pangong Tso along with tips and risks which they pose are detailed under the articles:

      Tips for Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso Direct Route AND Tips for Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri Direct Route

      Please read these articles and based on the details/risks highlighted, take a go-no-go decision.

      • Bhaskar Roy on

        Hello Dheeraj,

        Thank for your response.

        Another query.

        I want to cover all tourist attractions between Leh and Mulbech – for this what should I do?

        option 1 : Start Journey from Leh – cover all places upto Mulbech – return back to Leh on the same day – night stay at Leh

        option 2 : Start Journey from leh – cover all places upto Mulbech – night stay at Lamayuru – return back to leh on the next day.

        Please let me know which is OK.

        The month – as I mentioned earlier – is Sept beginning.


        • Hello Bhaskar,

          Option 2 is less taxing on the body as option 1 will mean leaving very early in the day and being on road only till late evening.

    • Abhineet Sharma on

      hii Bhaskar,

      The information provide by Dheeraj is fine but you can visit Tsomoriri from Pangong directly in month of September. That would be wise thing to do. & there is no risk at all.

      • The concern is he going directly to Tso Moriri from Manali side. And yes, now a days, even there seems to be not much of an issue with permits of Chusul as well.

  13. parvven rana on

    dear sir thanks for advice about sach pass we done it and now we are planing for leh and ladakh we done it twice by taxi but now we are on bikes so please advise us can we go nubra velly to pangong tso and pangong tso to tsomoriri in 2 days and wich route sutible for us to go manali from tsomoriri
    and sir little weak in English plz do,t mind

    • parvven rana on

      and sir we try it from Srinagar side from Ludhiana all rider have experience sach pass and spiti from kaza side

    • Parveen, you can go like

      Nubra Valley – Agham – Shyok – Pangong Tso as Day 1 and then Pangong Tso – Chusul – Tsagala – Loma – Nyoma – Mahe – Sumdo – Tso Moriri on Day 2. Day 2 will be long and you will need permits from DC office in Leh to pass through Chusul and Tsaga checkposts.

  14. Hi Dheeraj

    Please advice, we are 7 adults taking tempo traveler. Out tour will be like this:

    17th sep = Arrive leh. Full day rest
    18th Sep = leh sightseeing (sangam, magnetic hill, Pathar sahib Gurudwara, hall of fame, spituk monastery, etc) = May be rafting from Phey to Nimoo.
    19th Sep = sankar gompa and village, shanti stupa, stok gompa, leh palace, leh market
    20th Sep = Leh to tsomoriri
    21st Sep = tsomoriri to Leh via tsokar and taglang la pass.
    22nd Sep = Leh to Nubra via Khardungla Pass
    23rd Sep = Nubra to Pangong vis Shyok / Warila
    24th Sep = Pangong to Leh via changla pass and sightseeings like Shey, thiksey, Hemis, sidhu ghat, 3 idiots school.
    25th Sep = Leh departure.

    My questions:

    1) is Nubra to pangong route via shyok/warila open on 23rd Sep 2016?
    2) Is tempo traveler of 12 seater is safe to take from Nubra to pangong route via shyok/warila?
    3) Is Phey to Nimoo rafting is open on 18th Sep.2016?
    4) Please advice the cost of Rafting per person with Lunch?
    5) We all are Indians, so do we have to pay for tsomoriri, Nubra and Pangong Inner line Permit?

    Your urgent revert is highly appreciated.

    • Hi Nikita,

      You have to alter your plan else it may be recipe of disaster. You have to visit Nubra Valley first then pangong tso and then tso moriri after complete rest on Day1,2.

      1. Yes, it will be open but leave early in the day and do not venture on that route without company of other vehicles.
      2. Yes, that shall be fine but you should have company on the route.
      3. Yes, it remains open though it may be cold water
      4. I think it is around 1200-1500 depending on the package
      5. No, you need a self declaration form only.

  15. Dear dheeraj,

    im Planning to go from 1) pangong lake to tso moriri (via chumatang route).

    2) & return from tso moriri to Leh (via Thukjee-meru-gya -rumtse -mathoo route)

    can you please suggest me the best spots and places to visit on the way. And some tips for the ride

    • Ashwin, every thing will come on the way on these routes and you do not need any diversion. From Mahe village, there is a 20 KM uphill drive to Yaye Tso Lake, which in case you are interested can undertake. Rest all the lakes will come on the road iself.

      • thankyou dheeraj for the info about Yaye Tso Lake …else i would have missed it. 🙂

        is it advisable to go to nubra valley from leh on the first day skipping the local sight seeing?? . ( as we are reaching leh by bus from manali). bus ride to leh from manali will be enough for the acclimatisation right??

  16. Dear Dheeraj,

    We are group of 9 people in 2 private cars, viz: Scorpio and Innova (ground clearance increased). We have been to Leh-Ladakh region earlier twice, and want to do something different and challenging this time. We are kind of people who just love and live to drive where there is no road. The Trip will mostly comment on 25th Aug 2016 from Manali

    We did plan an Itenary, and it goes like this
    Day 1. Manali – Sarchu (I understand the risk of AMS, and will be on Diamox to counter/address it)
    Day 2. Sarchu – Tso Moriri via Pang, Meroo, Thukje, Sumdo, Karzok. Night stay @ Tso Moriri
    Day 3. Tso Moriri – Pangong Tso via Sumdo, Mahe, Yaye Tso, Mirpal Tso, Chusul, Merak, Man, Spangmik

    I have a question here, is the road on Day 3 doable?

    the itenary continues…
    Day 4. Pangong Tso – Hundar via Tangste, Durbuk, Shyok, Agham, Khalsar

    I have a question here too, after going thru the article, is this route doable? We otherwise will hesitantly take the Wari La route. Any latest update?

    the itenary continues…

    Day 5. Hundar – Leh, via Khardung La
    Day 6 Leh – Lazy day, relax
    Day 7 Leh – Kargil, with a stop over at Magnetic Hill and Nimoo for rafting
    Day 8 Kargil – Keylong, via Rangdum, Padum, Anmo, Purne, Shingo La

    question here, as per BRO there is road connectivity (based on what I could find out from the internet). Is Padum to Keylong connected, and any update on the condition of the road is appreciated. Actually, we are unable to get any reliable/updated information on this route, so this route is a concern

    Day 8 (Alternative itenary) If the Kargil – Keylong route is not an option, then we continue towards Srinagar, and from thereon back to home, i.e. Bangalore

    Anything else that you might think may be high on adventure quotient, please suggest

    • Forgot to add, we have managed to organise the permit before hand that we might require @ Chusul from our contact in Leh.

    • Murtaza, it is highly not recommended to execute above plan in this manner, better do it Tso Moriri circuit while coming back. Highly recommended that you avoid Sarchu as well. Shyok route is doable in the first half of the day when water is less in river. Day 8 is not possible as the road is not there now from Padum to Keylong. From Keylong side they have opened up to Shinko La. Consider the situation in Srinagar first and then plan it.

      • Thanks Dheeraj for your inputs, and appreciate the level of info on this website, great job bro, keep going….

        Point taken about doing Tso Moriri from Manali side.

        The Day 3 route is still unanswered, which may be reversed, i.e. Pangong to Tso Moriri, via Spangmik, Man, Merak, Chusul, Mirpal Tso, Yaye Tso, Mahe, Sumdo. Is this route open?

        • Murtaza, mostly army does not allow to pass through the Kaksang La – Mirpal Tso route. We did the route from the opposite side. Had a fortuner 2 out of 5 tyres got deep cut due to sharp stones lying on the road mostly throughout the route after Yaye Tso. We wer stranded with no help at that moment and in case we did not have company of another Pajero who stepney we put up in fortuner and drover like at 5-10 KMPH for about 30 KMs in 3 Hrs, we may have been either dead at that high altitude or car would have still be there 🙂 🙂

          You have mismatch of tyre size with the cars you are traveling in, so weigh in the risk.


    Dear dheeraj,
    please plan me trip for leh
    aug 27- bhubaneswar to delhi by flight

    aug 27-delhi to manali by hptdc bus

    aug 28-stay at manali

    aug 29-manali leh by cab

    aug 29 night -stay at jispa

    aug 30 evening will reach leh

    aug31-sept5-no idea

    sept 6-leh to delhi by flight

    sept 6-delhi to bhubaneswar by flight.

    so dheeraj please help me out we will be roaming leh in bikes only & we also want to go tsomoriri is it possible in this time frame

    • Sidhant, are you sure you want to make this trip as I do not see you have enough days to do anything in Ladakh. You are just doing Manali – Leh Highway and then flying out. Are you sure?


        here i am giving you my final plan.
        Day-1 Bhubaneswar to delhi by flight.same day Delhi to manali by bus

        Day-2 stay at manali & local sight seeing

        Day-3 Manali to leh Via jispa night halt at jispa by cab

        Day-4 Jispa to leh
        Day-5-take rest in leh & local sightseeing
        Day-6 Leh to nubra valley via khadurga la pass over night stay at Hunder
        Day-7-Nubra valley to papangong over night stay at spangmik
        Day-8-Spangmik to tso moriri lake over night stay at tso moriri
        Day-9-Tso moriri to Leh
        Day-10-didnt plan any thing dat day
        Day-11 Leh to delhi,delhi to bhubaneswar

        • Better avoid direct route from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri, come back to Leh and then use Day 10 to make two day easy trip to Tso Moriri from Leh.

  18. In addition, can you also please advise about the precautions, medicines which might be required and some tips on kind of clothing need to be carried (We are travelling in august).

  19. Hi Dheeraj,

    Thanks for the wonderful work! Here is my itinerary for the leh-ladakh trip.

    20th Aug – Land in leh, Half day for acclimatization and then shanti stupa and leh palace visit.
    21st Aug – Visit Spituk monastery driving along indus- zanskar sangam, Gurudwara and hall of fame and alchi monastery.
    22nd Aug – Leh to nubra. via khardungla pass. stay in hunder overnight.
    23rd Aug – Nubra – pangong via shaylok valley. Overnight at pangong
    24th. Pangong – Leh visting shey palace,Thiksey and hemis gompa.
    25th Aug -Leh – Tsomoriri via Chumatang. Overnight at tsomoriri.
    26th Aug – Tsomoriri – Tsokar-Leh via mahe village and tanglang pass
    27th Aug – depart from leh.

    Please advise if it is fine or would it be too hectic.

    • Plan is OK, make sure you have couple of accompanying vehicles in case any help is required on Shyok route. Also, confirm if the Shyok route is open or not.

  20. Vivek Bhandari on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    We are a family of four aged 64, 59, 34 and 33 planning to travel to Kashmir and Ladakh as per below itinerary starting Aug 11, 2016. Request your guidance if the same looks feasible and if you could also provide approx travel time we would be undertaking on a daily basis in below itinerary.

    Day 1: Mumbai to SRINAGAR (by flight )
    Day 2: Srinagar to Gulmarg
    Day 3: Gulmarg to Pahalgam
    Day 4: Pahalgam city tour and drive to Srinagar
    Day 7: KARGIL TO LEH
    Day 14: LEH TO MUMBAI

    Thanks for all the advice.

    Vivek Bhandari

  21. Hi Dheeraj,

    Thanks a lot for the blog – It has been our go to site for any damn question we had for our trip. Need tour suggestion on our itinerary-

    Day 1 – Flying in to Leh
    Day 2 – Leh – covering lumrayu
    Day 3- Leh sight seeings
    Day 4 – Leh to Nubra
    Day 5 – Nubra to Leh (just overnight in leh)
    Day 6 – Leh to Pangong
    Day 7 – Pangong to Tso Moriri ( Need your help here)
    Day 8 – Tso Moriri to Leh
    Day 9 – Leh (Sham Valley)
    Day 10 – Fly out

    My primary concern is with pangong to tso moriri – How much time will it take to reach? And will it be too hectic?

  22. Saurab hRathi on

    Dear Dheeraj,

    First of all hats off to you man for the detailed info on Leh Ladakh Journeys.

    Me and my friends have the following plan:

    June 18 – Flight from Hyderabad and Land at Srinagar – Night Stay at Sonmarg

    June 19 – Sonmarg to Leh – Night stay at Leh — Question: Whether we ca reach Leh by night if we start in morning from Sonmarg covering Zoizila and Kargil/Dras?

    June 20 – Leh to Nubra Valley via Khardungla – Night Stay at Nubra – We will be hiring Bullets for this. Any idea about the prices and the best dealer who we can deal with to get the bike ?

    June 21 – Nubra to Leh – Local Site Seeing and Night Stay at Leh

    June 22 – Leh to Pangog – Here we wish to travel by car, Howver, is there a possibility of we going on bike and later on the bike can be collected by the dealer at Pangog ? – Night Stay at Pangog

    June 23 – Pangog to Tsomoriri Lake – Question: How much time does it take to reach Tsomiriri and is it worth spending a day in car to visit here ? night Stay at Tsomoriri

    June 24 – Tsomoriri to Jispa – Now this as per me this is going to be tiring. Any suggestions by you ? We ingtend to do paragliding at ROhtang Pass. – Night Stay at Jispa

    June 25 – Reach Manali and spend time in Manali

    June 26 – Manali. Leave Manali for Delhi around in afternoon

    June 27 – Delhi to Hyderabad flight at 7.30 AM.

    I know that I have put a lot of details for you to answer. But a reply from you will help us in plan accordingly.

    Thanks in advance

    • Saurabh, you are trying to do too many things in too less days. I will suggest either to add few days and make it relaxed to enjoy or drop places.

    • I can only recommend following for you:

      June 18 – Flight from Hyderabad and Land at Srinagar – Night Stay at Sonmarg

      June 19 – Sonmarg to Leh will take around 13-14 Hrs, so leave early

      June 20 – Leh rest and acclimatize

      June 21 – Lhe – Nubra

      June 22 – Nubra to Leh

      June 23 – Leh – Pangong Tso

      June 24 – Pangong Tso – Sarchu

      June 25 – Sarchu – Manali

      June 26 – Manali. Leave Manali for Delhi around in afternoon

      June 27 – Delhi to Hyderabad flight at 7.30 AM.

      • Saurab hRathi on

        Dear Dheeraj,

        Thanks for the quick and helpful. Could you help us with a reliable travel agency who can arraneg cab from Srinagr and drop at Delhi and Bullet Bike dealer in Leh ?

        Thanks a lot !

        I may have to drop Tsomoriri based on your suggestion

        • Saurabh, you can connect with as most of the readers in the past three years have had very good feedback about them and especially their transparent policies along with being there with you all the time in need. So, we trust them the most (please note that DoW except reliable reference has nothing to do with them so please don’t copy/mail us :))…

  23. Shilpi Rana on

    Hi there,
    First of the devilonwheels is amazing.
    Well now my questions. I m going to leh on 11th June.
    Last time I went via Srinagar. This time I am planning to go via Manali. So I was planning to go to tso morir first and then reach Leh. Is it ok and what about permits. I read somewhere that we do not need permit anymore.
    Please help.

    • You should not do Tso Moriri while going from Manali to Leh because first the taxi from Manali will not be allowed to visit Tso Moriri. Even if you manage Leh taxi or going on your own, then you will not be acclimatized to sleep at such high altitude so early in the trip and may cause some ugly AMS issues for you. Highly not recommended, because any help if required will be very hard to find in case you get hit with AMS.

  24. Deepak sharma on

    dear Dheeraj ji
    salute to you, you have been doing a great job. i have a small query which might seem irrelevant but i want to know if someone else (local friend of mine ) can obtain a ILP for me and my family in advance from DC office leh to travel from Pangong tso to tsomoriri? coz i dont have time once i reach leh, am a bit tight on time. thanks in advance.

  25. HI Dheeraj,

    i heard ,Outside self rental cars not allowed for local sightseeing in leh,as we will come to leh from Srinagar route and come back by Manali.
    We will stay at Leh and park the car in hotel in leh,and take local bike for local sightseeing,
    So please suggest how to cover Pangong Lake,Tso moriri, Nubra in one go or is there any alternate route to cover two of them(not Nubra).
    The main problem is to come back to Leh after covered all to take our car 🙁

    • Lavish, they are not allowed for any sightseeing in Ladakh but can be used to get in and out of Leh. You will have to go bck to Leh only to pick the car and drop the bikes.

  26. Hi,

    You have mentioned about the 4 wheelers, are 2 wheelers good for the above mentioned routes?

    Same question for:
    Nubra Valley – Agham – Wari La – Shakti – Chang La – Durbuk – Tangste – Pangong Tso (Lukung)
    Nubra Valley – Agham – Shyok Village – Durbuk – Tangste – Pangong Tso (Lukung)

    I am planning to travel in mid August. How are the conditions of these routes as of now?
    Do we(Indian Citizens) require special permits for travelling ?

    • Regarding Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso route, in order to take Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso via Shyok village, you need not need any permits. However, with such a small distance it appears tempting to be done BUT just to analyze the difficulty I will strongly suggest that you read:Trip Report | Nubra – Shyok Village – Pangong Tso Route. The report is from couple of year back in June & in July/August, most likely the route is washed away. Similar, reports are there from last year as well. So better confirm first, analyze the high risk involved and then only attempt it or better avoid it unless very much sure.

      Next possible way is to attempt Wari La route, which is also a bit desolated but doable enough. If your driver agrees to travel on this route then take the Wari La route to Pangong Tso. Remember that any help required on both these routes will be HARD to find in miles of distance. If you have couple of vehicles then only take this route otherwise best is to avoid it.

      No permit required

  27. on

    I am planning to go Leh via manali in last of May through private car.
    Can you please update me when manali leh highway will open ?
    Or is there any permit required for Manali leh Highway, Pangong TSO, TSO Moriri, Nubra Vally.
    Can we use our private car for visiting Pangong TSO, TSO Moriri & Nubra Vally ?


    • Mohit, as per the reports it looks like Manali – Leh will only open by late May. Some camping sites of sarchu have started loosing hopes for this date now and they consider it may not open before first week of June.

  28. Varun Chaudhary on

    traveler exp on the internal route: last year, July we travelled from Moriri to Pangong with a DC permit (must). The article has summed up the conditions of the roads brilliantly and here are some quick pointers

    * carry multiple copies of your permit, at every stop you submit a copy and might be asked to fill a form too
    * carry ‘extra’ food supplies and water – there is literally no human sight for few hours on a stretch
    * if self driving – be sure to have a back-up provision (with another vehicle or proper toolkit and tyre) or take mobile numbers of jawans at check posts (they are unwilling at first, but would comply if you request) but having said, be lucky if you get a mobile signal
    * only do this route if you have patience to drive very slow at times, and be very careful at running streams, they are very deceptive

    Hope these help. Best part the no human sight, wildlife sighting (sighting a wild horse running around in the lonely terrain is the best a photographer can ask for) the silence, all of this is something magical and must be experienced.

    DoW – you are doing an amazing job. BIG thanks

  29. Hi

    We have planned the following route.. no self drive cars

    Day 1 : Manali — Keylong / Jispa
    Day 2 : Keylong / Jispa — Leh
    Day 3 : Leh
    Day 4 : Leh — Nubra via Khardungla
    Day 5 : Nubra — Pangong Tso
    Day 6 : Pangong Tso — Tso Moriri
    Day 7 : Tso Moriri — Leh
    Day 8 : Leh — Kargil
    Day 9 : Kargil — Srinagar

    Could you please let me know if this would be a very hectic plan with lots of travelling..
    Also can this be shortened a bit if we say drop Pangong Tso (only if this plan is too hectic )


      • Dhiman Roy on

        Thanks Dheeraj 🙂

        Seems we would be dropping either tso moriri or pangong tso.

        Not decided yet.
        Heard shyok village is a good watch.. So was thinking of dropping tso moriri..
        Bt then again tso moriri ‘as heard’ is much more beautiful!

        Any suggestions with this?

  30. Hey Dheeraj, could you please give an idea on how much time it generally takes from Spangmik to Chushul, on an Innova? Do you have any suggested locations for wildlife and birds? Thank you!

    • Spangmik to Chusul will take about 2.5-3 Hrs easily. Tso Kar is famous for bird spotting and wildlife. Hanle is another place for wildlife spotting.

      • Thanks a lot for the information! We saw a pair of black necked cranes at Chushul and a the trip was awesome!

  31. If Chusul permits are denied can we take Pangong – Erath – Horla route for Hanle, or one also needs permits for this ?

    • No Zamir, you can’t because the Chusul check post cuts through both the routes one at chusul and other just ahead of it at Nama towards Horala

  32. Dheeraj, what is the current road condition as of 2016 of Pangong to Hanle via both Chusul and Hor La ?

    Can a hatchback do it ? Is any of the road tarred ?


    • It will be very very tricky to take a hatch on that route. There is sand which is common and cars do get stuck in that route. DO NOT try Chusul to Horla route on a hatch at all

  33. Mayank VOra on

    Can a tempo traveller go from pangong Tso to Tso Moriri?

    Thank you.

  34. Hi! Im wondering how is situation with permits to lakes Pangong and Tso Moriri? You did mentioned that permit need to remote areas permits to Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga, do we need permit (we are foreigners) if we go ( only for sunrise) to the lakes only? How long it takes to take this permit and how much it costs now?
    thank you for reply:)

  35. Dear Dheeraj and other experts,
    i have planned a trip to leh-nubra valley-pangong tso and tsomoriri from 7th of august and have booked a bike for the trip through a company named .
    as trending in the news is that vehicles/bikes with registration plates other then leh arto wont be allowed in that region.

    please update me on this and also a route in which i can have a good trip.
    the itinerary i had planned was
    8th august:reach manali by 10 and start from there to keylong.overnight stay
    9th august:try to reach leh by 6-7pm or spend the night at upshi.
    10th august:direct to nubra valley via khardungla pass
    11th august:from nubra valley towards pangang tso(max journey)
    12th august:pangong tso and start towards tsomoriri.stay in some village enroute.
    13th:tso moriri lake in and around and start on the manali route.stay in some village enroute.
    14th:try to reach manali by night or else stay in the highway
    15th:manali .bus to delhi at 6pm.

    i am travelling solo with tents and kitchen gear so no issues of sleeping in some dhabha compound or something similar.
    i also have done many treks during snow seasons so sleeping also should not be an issue.

    please give your expert opinion regarding my trip.
    thank you and regards

    • Hi Yogesh,

      Bikes rented outside Leh are not allowed for sightseeing inside Ladakh. Private bikes are completely allowed. You can use the outside rented bike to reach Leh but then for going to Pangong Tso, nubra Valley, etc.. you need to hire rented bikes from Leh only.

      To know more about this rule and present situation, please refer the link: Bikes Rented Outside Leh Banned in Ladakh

      Regarding your tour plan, I will advice that you stay overnight in Leh at least before going on to Khardung La to Nubra Valley. Then all the details about the direct routes of Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri and Nubra to Pangong Tso along with tips and risks which they pose are detailed under the articles:

      Tips for Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso Direct Route AND Tips for Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri Direct Route

      Please read these articles and based on the details/risks highlighted, take a go-no-go decision.

      All in all a very hectic itinerary you have planned.

      • hey dheeraj,
        thanks for the information in detail regarding my queries.
        i have planned to drop down to manali directly from tsomoriri.and to tsomoriri from pangong.
        i dont have any plans for returning to leh once i visit you have any idea weather this will be fine with the laddakh motorbike association people.
        also one more query,are there any spaces where i can pitch my tent and sleep overnight during my trip as i dont want to spend much on acomodation


        • Yogesh, in that case how do you plan to return the bikes back to them in Leh and get your bike from there? You can pitch your own tents anywhere but I will suggest you pitch them at a place where there are some dhabha tents put up by locals or where other camping guy pitch theirs or somewhere near some house in village or in their garden/lawn. All you will need is to gently ask them (villagers/dhabha guys/camping guys) for permissions. Most likely they will allow, other wise negotiate for small little tip or move on to some other such place nearby. This will give you sense of security too.

  36. Hi Dheeraj,

    we are planning a trip in a innova and are planning to go to tso morriri direct from sarchu, and from there to pangong via noma and chushul, on the 24th from sarchu to tso morriri and on 25th from morriri to pangong.

    1. whats the road conditions for thise particular section

    2. whether permits would be needed

    • Ashwani, You should not do Tso Moriri while going from Manali to Leh because first the taxi from Manali will not be allowed to visit Tso Moriri. Even if you manage Leh taxi or going on your own, then you will not be acclimatized to sleep at such high altitude so early in the trip and may cause some ugly AMS issues for you. Highly not recommended, because any help if required will be very hard to find in case you get hit with AMS.

      Also, going towards Loma Nyoma will need permits which are available in Leh only.

  37. kamatsubbi34 on

    Hi Dheeraj,
    We have planned our Ladakh itinerary with some great and most helpful tips from you. During my previous trip in 2005 I had visited Pangong Tso. Though a breathtakingly beautiful place I found it devoid of life, with no birds or any form of wild life seen in the vicinity. Trees or any form of green cover was virtually absent. As a result i had omitted visiting this place in our trip starting 19th June 2015. However due to overwhelming pressure from my family members i wish to make a last minute change in our itinerary. We are driving a 4WheelDrive Scorpio. What i want to ask you is this.
    Considering the off chance that we do get the permits, can we start from Hunder early morning and reach Pangong Tso via Leh and then onward without stopping via Spangmimk-Man-Merak-Chusul-Tsaga-Loma-Nyoma-Mahe-Sumdo-Kiagartso-Korzok. In one day? Please advise.

    • You can surely do it these back to back hectic 12+ hrs journeys if you all can. Just keep in mind that permit is just one thing, getting permission to cross Chusul from army posted there is another thing. So, even if you have permits, you can be sent back from Chusul.

  38. Dear Dheeraj
    Am taking manali rohtang road for leh this june (19th june to 29th june). Can i reach from sarchu to tso moriri in a day? How will be the road during june? From tso moriri we are planning to drive towards leh.
    Hi nono
    As per our conversation am maling you our tour itinerary.

    19: 1 day in manali.
    20: manali to jispa or sarchu
    21: jispa or sarchu to tso moriri
    22: Tso moriri to leh
    23: leh to nubra
    24: nubra to pangong
    25: pangong to hemis or leh
    26: leh and hemis (attend hemis festival). Or stay in hemis.
    27: leh to manali

    30: manali to delhi.

    We are keeping 2 days extra in our hand just in case of land slides or breakdown. Would it be possible for nubra to pangong lake this june? We are using innova.

    • You should not do Tso Moriri while going from Manali to Leh because first the taxi from Manali will not be allowed to visit Tso Moriri. Even if you manage Leh taxi or going on your own, then you will not be acclimatized to sleep at such high altitude so early in the trip and may cause some ugly AMS issues for you. Highly not recommended, because any help if required will be very hard to find in case you get hit with AMS.

  39. what is the current status of the chusul-mirpal tso-mahe road? I read in another blog a road was being built kakasang la. Is it complete?

  40. Do you have any latest info on road conditions for chusul-mirpal tso- mahe? I read that there was road construction work near kakasang la. Has it completed?

    • Srini, that route is forbidden. IN rarest of rare chance army allow to pass that route. Even in case you are allowed on some extremely lucky day, it is not that good road to take as the risk is quite high.

  41. Any update on the current condition of the Tsaga La route? What is the travelling time we should look at from Spangmik to Loma during end of June.

    • Raghav, condition of route does not change much. It is a dirt track and always remain as is 🙂 … It will take about 5-6 Hrs to reach Loma from Spangmik provided army allows you tro travel through Chusul.

  42. We took this direct route from Pangong – Tso Moriri in Oct 2014.

    (Pangong Tso – Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma – Mahe – Sumdo – Kiagar Tso – Tso Moriri )

    We were 3 people driving our own car, travelling to Ladakh valley for the first time & yet we somehow dared to take this route.! 🙂

    That 1 day on this route was the scariest, most adventurous and THE MOST BEAUTIFUL drive of our entire 9 day drive through Ladakh.! Driving along Pangong Tso on dirt tracks, no road, no walking soul for miles, no clue where in the world we are driving, obviously no connection with the outside world, no one to guide – a day we’re going to remember for a life time! One can breathe a sigh of relief only after reaching Tsaga village. Permit issue – yes, we had all permits but still had our fingers crossed at each check post – wasn’t a very smooth passing.

    Moral of the story – Absolutely go for it, if your’re an adventure junky.!

    • Awesome! Looks like a great story..
      I am planning to do this on the bike,
      Have a question here –

      Last time when I had gone to Pangong via ChangLa, I just submitted a Protected area form at the checkpost – is this what you are referring to when talking about permits?
      If yes, why do we have to go to the DC office in Leh to get the permits?

      • Arvind, if you went before 2014 then yes that is the permit issued from Leh office is required here but if you went in 2014 or after it, then you will need to get the permit done from Leh DC office since then permits were expemted for common routes for indian tourists. Permits are issued from DC Office still for interior non tourist routes.

        • Perfect, thank you Dheeraj.

          Also, is there any way I can get ILP on Manali Leh highway?
          Planning to visit Hanle and Chuchul before hitting Leh, hence the question.

        • Arvind, it is highly not recommended to travel that route unless you are acclimatized. It is away from civilization and at high altitude. Your body will not be acclimatized to sleep by that time of the trip at such a high alttude and you may end up quite ill.

  43. We took this route in 2014. Its a brilliant drive. Keep lots of spare fuel and do not try to off road near the lake. Good luck

    • G Govindan Potti on

      Dear Manish,
      Planning on doing the Pangong Tso – Tso Moriri this year.. please let me know the route you took and the problems you faced. I assume it is extremely beautiful and worth any difficulties faced !! Thanks,