The Journey so far…
Day 5 | Padum – Drang Drung Glacier – Penzi La Pass – Rangdum – Kargil
We slept well but had some un easy feelings all night. The trip had fallen apart badly but if I look at the other end of the tail then it meant another trip to Zanskar Valley in coming future would be certain 😉 … It was 4 AM when all of us woke up, got ourselves ready, freshening up and out in biting cold conditions. Hasan (cook) had prepared and packed our food for the long journey to Kargil from Padum and other Hasan (taxi guy) was ready for us downstairs. Stars were studded in the sky all over and were blinking as if to bid us adieus from the Zanskar Valley in that cold night.
As we left, we saw similar police dominance on the road and one of the group stopped us and asked for vehicle checking but then one senior came in and asked us about whereabouts and native places. Then, they realized we were tourists and let us go without much trouble. Feeling wasn’t that good leaving the town after seeing the police force and we knew in our heart that something was wrong but not exactly what!! Nevertheless, it was biting cold out there and we were completely packed up. None of us dared to get out for the golden glowing colours of sunshine as we get past the Zanskar Villages and perhaps we wanted to reach Drang Drung Glacier and Penzi La Pass as soon as possible to take some lovely pictures and spend some good time there. In between, there was a bus parked right in the middle of the road and since the thinking was pretty negative we were a bit scared that it might not have something related to some kind of protest or anything!! But, thankfully nothing like that and as the sun came out beyond the tall mountains, we almost reached that lovely spot offering the breath taking view right through the elongated Drang Drung Glacier. Earlier, we had missed everything on the way owing to precisely my bad health but now it was fun as we had almost full day to explore the raw nature up on the way to Kargil.
The massive Drang Drung was in full glory and the feeling was really out of the world. There was no soul around us and it was a feeling that everything there was only available for us. We moved ahead towards Penzi La pass and this time we were in no hurry. There are two lakes just before the Penzi La pass (from Kargil side) namely Stat Tso Lake and Lam Tso Lake. We did not want to waste the opportunity of capturing the reflections in these lakes and as we reached near there shore it was PRISTINE and HEAVENLY… There are always some feelings in the trip which you do not forget in lifetime and this one was just that but hard to describe in words, with no crowd or disturbances around. We spent almost 2 Hrs from Drang Drung Glacier to Penzi La Pass and at the shores of twin lakes – Stat Tso and Lam Tso, it was most fun filled moments of the trip 🙂
It was time to descend the Penzi La pass towards Rangdum and break the journey for the breakfast. On the way towards Rangdum monastery, we met many children who were going to school housed at Rangdum Monastery only, distributes some candies and chocolates. The innocence on their faces and the harshness of their lives would any sufferer believe that his sufferings are nothing as compared to the tough lives in this part of trans Himalayan region. Walking so many miles just for the school in harshest of conditions for attending school and get to learn those little things, just hats off to the spirit of life here. This is one of the reason I love traveling as it helps you understand and realize what things are there in my life which does require some respect and studies is just one thing, which was hard earned in the past!! Thanks to the lovely parents who helped me with it in whatever circumstances in life they were… Anyways, coming back to story as we passed by the Rangdum monastery, we saw army guys playing volleyball. The tiny hamlet of Rangdum looked lovely and so symmetrical from this end of the valley. We reached Rangdum and asked for some tea at that very dhabha aside the PWD Rest House because none of us wanted to take any chance with food there 😉 and moreover, we had packed food with us – paranthas with butter and jam… After spending about half an hour, we moved ahead towards Parkachik.
The sky was clear and now the sunshine was so fierce that it was almost burning the skin. Now, the section where the road widening work and blasting was going on started. It was damn slow progress now with so many break in between due to blasting in progress. There were sections on the road where it was not possible to avoid the underbelly hit and couple of times the body scratched from below though nothing worrying as such. After crossing the stretch just in front of Parkachik glacier, Hasan told us that we are almost out of fuel and may not be able to even reach Parkachik Village 😯 … God, there was 95 odd KMs left to reach Kargil from there and we were like – what an adventure it would be to have a such a long walk 😉 … Thankfully, after persuading and requesting one truck driver, who was a nice chap from Jammu, for a while, he agreed to sell about 10 Litres of diesel. He was indeed God Sent!! 😀 … Thanking him, we moved ahead and it was almost about 8 Hrs now in the journey.
This time we took the route through the villages instead of the upper route which by passes these villages en-route. It was a pretty nice experience going through those villages seeing the greenery around, children coming back from schools, playing in the meadows, some studying in those green meadows where cattle were grazing and a jaw dropping landscape in the background and all that looked like a dream or a fairy tale story/movie… We clicked few pictures here and there and continued to move ahead and after about 11 Hrs of journey we were at Kargil.
It was about 4.40 PM at that time when we reached Kargil. We settled the bill with Hasan after check-in at the same hotel Greenland at the same Rs 800 bucks. Then, we decided to have a stroll on the roads of Kargil in search of river side location but that was very far so opted against it in the end. We searched for some food but chapatis were not available anywhere at that time and only rice was available. Even eggs were out of stock and was not available anywhere 😥 … Finally, decided to go with some mix. veg and dahi/curd with juices at the Shangri La hotel!! Took the print outs of the airline tickets for day after tomorrow from Srinagar as Kargil was the last point where we would be able to get them. Never wanted to take risk with Srinagar as we came to know there was also a two day bandh there at that time. Went back to hotel, called up Feroz and lucking he was there in Kargil only and available for tomorrow to take us back to Srinagar. Rested for a while, had some gupshups and again at about 9.30 PM went out for dinner at the same hotel. This time went to Las Vegas restaurant but there as well no rotis/chapatis available. Had some rice and finally went back to hotel and called off the VERY long day 🙂
The Journey ahead…
23 Comments
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@dheeraj bhai:
I heard that Zanskar valley is open for all.
If we start from Kargil at morning june 28 2015, By bus [if bus not available] then by private taxi, for KArgil-Rangdum-Padum-Zanskar & back to Kargil/Leh/Manali – whatever is suitable option.
So…
# I am seeking an itinerary
# by bus How many days & cost?
# by taxi how many days & cost ?
-Ripan
Ripan, how many days can you spare from Kargil? You can also check: Itinerary for My Zanskar Trip in September – 2012
Sorry bro… actually I posted the same query in another thread at DoW too. Sorry for that.
I checked link of the itinerary u have given.
I will reach Kargil June 28 evening. Have to be in Leh on July 03 evening.
But tell me first 2 points:
1. PLS as there is ANY PERMIT ISSUE FOR BANGLADESHIS or not. [pls DONT SAY AGAIN ‘Permit from home ministry’ 🙂 .]
2. Can I exit near Alchi so that I can stay the night there & do the sightseeing the sham valley? or Kargil is the only option to come back from Padum?
If we cant go upto Padum, U may suggest upto Rangdum & watching Nun-Kun in the itinerary.
Pls mention the bus options too & the cost for we, 2 persons.
– Ripan
Kargil is the only option to come back from Padum. Rest I have suggested already in other comments
Boss,
We are 6 guys palnning to visit Leh/ Ladak / Kargil from 30th afternoon to 6th night of october.
Pl. let us know which are the best place to visit????
Also Pl. share
1) Loadging – minimum value hotel cost
2)Logistics – Every place visit with reserved car.. cost of every trip.
lastly, is the right time to visit Kargil in 1st week of october to see heaven
October is in general cold and most of the hotels start getting closed by that time. Camps at Pangong Tso also packup. What is your starting and end point? You seem to have less number of days in hand.
(1)where to break journey driving from Kargil to Padum? What all are options to stay?
(2)durins September’14 do we need to precook accommodations or walkin would be okay in Ladakh?
Thanks, Dheeraj
Hi Saurabh,
1. Ideally it should be at Panikhar as last OK to stay PWD Guest House is there only else stay at Tongol or Purikutchey
2. If you are OK to search here and there, it should be fine not to book anything in advance in whole Himalayas including Ladakh, Kashmir and Himachal.
Hey guys,
I am planning a trip to zanskar valley in july and want some help. I want to take a taxi from Jammu via mughal road to srinagar and then to kargil. Once we have done zanskar i want to go to Leh and fly back to delhi.. Any help in terms of logistics would be great
Sumit, what help do you need brother? you can refer the thread for a comprehensive list of drivers: List of Taxi Drivers for Ladakh – Srinagar – Leh – Manali including Zanskar Valley.
may I visit zanskar in may last or jun first week?
Are these photographs in HDR? Because as you said, you use an 18-55mm but with mine the photos don’t look half as good as yours’ do.
No Siddharth, these are taken using a normal DSLR and 18-55 mm lens. I do use CPL filter however in majority of pictures clicked using that lens.
penzi la pass is how much kms away from kargil??
Gurjeet, Penzi La Pass is about 165 KMs from Kargil
Great pics and narration. Loved the pics of the mountain reflected in the lake.
Thank you so much Sunil sir. These places are themselves offer such a beauty that one does not need to do anything for the lovely captures 🙂
Excellent narration. Dheeraj I plan to visit Leh on 22nd July ’13 for seven days with my wife. I would like to book an Suv but would like to share it with another couple so that the cost can be split.Pls guide us on how to go about it
Hello MK,
You are going there as a couple and private taxis are very costly in Leh but you will be able to find the shared taxi without much fuss at all. There are lots of flyers which people put at cafes, dine-ins, restaurants, travel agent desks/shops/whiteboards wanting to share the taxis for different trips within Ladakh. Even travel agent organize such shared taxis trip as well but charge a little higher about Rs 200-300 more than it would ideally cost. So, in worst case you can always go back to them and book a seat for yourself. Gelling up with people in Ladakh is more or less easy because many people travel solo and look forward to meet new people and share cultural thoughts and values over the trip. No where else in the world you will find more smiling and helpful people as Ladakhis are 🙂
I hope this helps.
Regards
Dheeraj Sharma
Guys, I have been following you on FB for sometime. You guys are great source of information about travel. You inspire me so much.
For god’s sake take me along with you next time.
Hi Sunil,
I generally travel with my family or relatives only and in case I travel socially I do post all those Travel Plans on Facebook page. I will update you over next public trip, keep an eye over Facebook page 🙂
Regards
Dheeraj Sharma
nice narration & beautiful pix..
awesome blog
Thanks alot brother, it was indeed a great trip. Will post the concluding part over coming weekend.