In the most welcoming news in 2021, Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permits are not required for domestic tourists to travel anywhere in Ladakh including Hanle, Umling La Pass, Marsimik La, or even Demchok or Chumur. You only need to pay the environment/green/ecology fee and carry a receipt of the payment. 

Video: Step-by-Step Guide: Pay Leh Ladakh Environment Fee Online | Apply Leh Ladakh Permits Online

Do I need any permits in Ladakh in 2024?

Indians do not need any permits anymore in Ladakh for regular sightseeing. You just need to pay the Ladakh Environment Fee on the website and carry the receipt of it. Here is the link where you need to pay it: https://www.lahdclehpermit.in/register-as-domestic 

Current Ladakh environment fees are broken down as follows: 

  1. Environment Fee = Rs 400 one time per year
  2. Wildlife Fee/Something = Rs 20 per day per person
  3. Red Cross Fund Fee = Rs 50 one time per year but optional. You don’t need to pay if you don’t want to pay this fee.

DO NOT confuse the environment fee receipt with the Ladakh inner line permit. You just need to carry the fee payment receipt, hard copy, or soft copy. This receipt may be checked at some checkposts. Hence, people are confusing it with the permit. But this is just verification that you have paid the Ladakh environment fees.

Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permits History

In June 2017, Ladakh Inner Line Permits were made available online from the official website of the Leh Ladakh administration. It was a piece of very welcoming news for all the people planning their trip to Leh Ladakh. This step helped all those tourists who travel to Ladakh during holidays and found the Leh DC office closed during those days to get the permits to travel to tourist spots.

Tourists can apply for the Leh Ladakh permits online, choose a tour operator to pay the fee, and get their copies of the Ladakh permit online. This step has eased the process and eliminated the hassles of procuring these permits in advance. Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permits are available online for both domestic tourists as well as foreigners.

Back in 2014, the concept of Inner Line Permits for domestic Indian tourists was waived. It meant all Indians traveling to the Inner Line region of Ladakh, including Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, and Tso Moriri, were exempted from the need for Inner Line permits. Domestic tourists just require a self-declaration form when visiting these places, and that will act as a permit for them.

However:

The decision was reverted back in 2017 to the original requirements of having permits. In April 2017, authorities in Leh Ladakh reverted the decision and re-introduced the Environment Fee of Rs 300, the Red Cross Fund fee of Rs 100, and Inner Line Permits for domestic tourists as well. Now all tourists, foreigners, and Indians, visiting the Inner Line region of Leh Ladakh need these permits to visit Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, and Tso Moriri. 

Foreigners need a Protected Area Permit to visit tourist places in Ladakh which is different from Inner Line Permits needed by domestic tourists.

What are the permits required for Leh Ladakh trip?

Process for Ladakh Environment Fee Online or Ladakh Inner Line Permits Online

In this article, let’s look at the step-by-step process to obtain Ladakh Inner Line permits online or in advance of your Ladakh trip. This will help you a lot in planning the trip to Ladakh smoothly. I will also discuss in detail the manual steps required to apply for the inner line permits.

Ladakh Inner Line Permits (ILP) are required for Indian Tourists, but foreigners require Ladakh Protected Area Permits (PAP). Tourists need these permits in Ladakh to visit the inner line places like Nubra Valley, Khardung La, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Dah, Hanu Villages, Man, Merak, Nyoma, Loma Bend, Turtuk, Tyakshi, Chusul, Hanle, Digger La, Tangyar (for trekking only).

You do not need any permits to travel on Manali Leh Highway or Srinagar Leh Highway or Zanskar Valley.

The permits for Hanle and direct route from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri from Chusul can only be applied manually or in person at Leh DC office.

These permits are not required for residents of J&K state and children below the age of 12 years. They can visit the inner line region in Ladakh by showing/carrying a valid Photo Id proof.

Both Protected Area Permits (PAP) and Inner Line Permits (ILP) are available online from the official website www.lahdclehpermit.in of Leh administration. All tourists can go through the website to obtain the inner line permits.

You need to pay an Environment fee of Rs 300, Red Cross Fund fee of Rs 100, and an inner line permit fee of Rs 20 per day per person to get these permits. You need to provide a valid photo ID proof to apply for these Inner Line Permits in Ladakh. You can pay the fee for the Inner Line Permits when you choose the option of the tour operator and pay them the required fee after applying for the permit.

Ladakh Inner Line Permits Available Online
Ladakh Inner Line Permits Online Circular
Video – How to get Ladakh inner line permits online?

Step-by-Step Process to Apply for Online Ladakh Permits / Online Ladakh Environment Fee

Below steps need to be followed to apply for the permits

  1. Click on the “Apply for Permits -> Domestic Clients” button on the center bottom of the screen. It will take you to the first step of providing the details of the Domestic Tourist applying for the permits.
  2. On this page, you need to enter your details including Name, State, Gender, Id Type, Id Number, and Home Address.
  3. Apart from that, you need to choose if you are applying directly or through an agent. You should choose to apply directly because with the agent option; you have to get in touch with the agent to get your permit processed.
  4. Lastly, you need to enter the Arrival Date when you are arriving in Leh and start exploring inner line areas of Ladakh. Then, you click on Submit.
  5. When you click on submit, it will take you to the screen with two options “Click here to issue an individual permit” and “Click here to issue group permit.”
  6. If you are applying for the permit alone, you need to click on the Individual permit option else if you are in a group, choose the group option and add details of other users on the next screen.
  7. Once, choose the respective option (and fill group details in case of group option), you will go to the next screen where you need to select among the circuits which you plan to visit in Ladakh, and a reference number will be present on the page.
  8. PLEASE NOTE the reference number and save it somewhere as it will be required to Print the permit whenever you need it.
  9. Select the required circuits as per your itinerary of the Ladakh trip. As you cannot reissue the permits, so choose all the circuits at once when applying for the permits. The below table will help you select the relevant circuits based on your Leh Ladakh trip plan.
  10. Finally, enter the Start Date and End date of the permit which will define the total fee for your permits.
  11. Click on Apply for Permits button which will take you to the confirmation page that tells you about the selected circuit details with dates of the permits.
  12. You need to click on the Proceed button to generate your permit. Print a few copies of this permit. Download the sample online permit for reference purposes only.
  13. The permit has your total inner line permit fee that includes Environment fee (Rs 300 per person one time), Red cross fund fee (Rs 100 per person one time), and wildlife fee (Rs 20 per person per day).
  14. You can choose to click on the Pay Now option to pay the permit fee online using a Credit or Debit Card via Jammu & Kashmir Bank online portal. You can pay the Permit Fees online using all major Credit/Debit cards and Net Banking of all major banks.
    On successful payment processing, a receipt will be generated; each transaction you can identify by a unique identifier known as Collection ID. The payer is required to take printouts of Permit Receipt and Easy Collect Transaction Receipt. SMS and Email will be sent to payer confirming receipt of payment.
  15. However, you have to visit the Leh DC Office or Tourist Information Center for verification of your permits and get them stamped. So, if you do not want to pay online, then visit the Leh DC office or Leh TIC office. And there, you can pay the permit fee while getting the verification done for your permits.
  16. You can use the reference number to reprint your permit from the Homepage menu options again.
  17. You cannot apply online for Hanle permits and Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri direct route. Either you have to follow the manual process defined below and apply for those permits in person at Leh DC office. Or you can also take these printouts to Leh DC office, and they will be able to put Hanle permit stamp on these online permits too.

Step 1 – Ladakh Inner Line Permit Online Application

Step 1 - Ladakh Inner Line Permit Online Application

Step 2 – Ladakh Inner Line Permit Online Application

Step 2 - Ladakh Inner Line Permit Online Application

Step 3 – Ladakh Inner Line Permit Online Application

Step 3 - Ladakh Inner Line Permit Online Application

ILP – Online Permit

ILP - Online Permit

Pay Online for Ladakh Inner Line Permit

Pay Online for Ladakh Inner Line Permit

Ladakh Inner Line Permits Circuits – What to choose

1Khalsi, Domkhar, Skurbuchan, Hanu, Baima, Dha in Khalsi Sub-Division.Select this one Dah Hanu
2Khardong, Khalsar, Trith up to Warsi and Yarma Gonbo, Disket, Hunder, Turtuk, Pachathang, Tyakshi in Nubra Sub-Division.Select this one for Nubra Valley including Turtuk, Tyakshi
3Upshi, TsomoRiRi/Korzok in Nyoma Sub-Division.Select this one for Tso Moriri
4Upshi, Dipling, Puga, TsomoRiRi/Korzok in Nyoma Sub-Division.Select this one for Tso Moriri and Tso Kar
5Kharu, Changla, Durbuk, Tangtse, Lukhung, Spangmik, Man-merag(Pangong Lake) in Nyoma Sub-Division.Select this one for Pangong Tso
6Upshi, Chumathang, Mahe, Loma Bend in Nyoma Division.Select this one for going to Loma
7Leh-Kharu-Changla-Durbuk-Tangtse-Lukung-Spangmik-Man Merak (pangong) upto Chushul and Loma Bend.Select this one for Chusul & Loma Bend
8Tangtse-Kargyam-Sato, Barma, Chushul.Select this one for Chusul

Pro Travel Tip: Apply for Ladakh Inner Line Permits online when your date is finalized. As the process now is online, the photo ID card number gets stored in the database and same proof cannot be used for next 15 days to get the permits. So, if you change the permit date after applying, you need to use a different ID for it else system will not allow it. 
The entire inner liner permit area is divided into 8 regions and you have to select the desired ones very carefully. Better get the region information first and then apply for it.

Step by Step Process for Ladakh Environment Fee or Inner Line Permits in Person / Offline at Leh DC Office

If you are planning to apply for these permits in person or offline, then you can apply them at Tourist Information Center (TIC) Office, Opposite J&K Bank, Main Market, Leh or you can also apply for Inner Line Permits at Leh DC Office.

The TIC office is open on all working days (Monday to Saturday) from 09:00 AM to 07.00 PM. The timing of the Leh DC office is 10.00 AM to 5.00 PM (as told to us by the clerk there but not confirmed as I didn’t see it written), but they generally do not accept applications after 3 PM, I guess. So, you should reach the Leh DC office before 2 PM. Best will be to reach at around 10.15 AM to find the least rush and much hassle-free process.

The stories of Srinagar Leh Highway
The stories of Srinagar Leh Highway
Is Leh DC office open on Saturday and Sunday?

Leh DC office is closed on Sundays and other national holidays. Hence, you should plan your Leh Ladakh trip such that your Leh local sightseeing day does not start with Sunday or a holiday. Having said that, I have heard that DC office is sometimes open on Sunday for half-day as well but I will say don’t count on it. If that is the case, best it to apply the Ladakh inner line permits online or get the arranged in advance through some travel agent.

Manual or Offline permit application is required mainly for Hanle or Chusul routes. Rest for regular tourist destinations you can apply online

Below are some steps that you can follow for applying for Ladakh Inner Line Permits in person at the DC office in Leh.

  • You need to fill the permit application form to get the approval for your inner line permits. So, carry a pen with you, if filling directly in Leh DC office.
  • The permits cost you Rs 300 for environment fee, Rs 20 per day per person for the permit. There is a fee of Rs 100 which is charged per tourist one time towards the Red Cross Fund. There is a special fee for the students, which is one time only Rs 20. You need to show/attach the i-card, I think, with the permit copy.
  • You need to have photocopies of a valid nationality Photo-ID proof (Passport, Driving License, Aadhar, Voters ID, PAN card, etc.) which proves your identity. Although the photocopies were not checked for attestation for us, I feel one should not take any chance with it and get them attested before venturing to Leh Ladakh.
  • You can apply the permits for your entire group, but you need to attach the photocopy of photo-id cards (nationality proof) for each member in the group and make sure to fill the required details of all group members in the permit application form.
  • Anyone who has yours or your group’s photocopies of valid Photo-IDs, he/she can get the inner line permits on your behalf as well. Usually, the hotels in the Leh town does provide this facility if you are OK with sharing the photocopies of your nationality proof’s Photo-IDs with them either via Email or Fax.
  • The permit approval process may take anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 hours. Hence it’s always nice that you reach early morning at the Leh DC office. Sometimes, when there is a rush of tourists, the permits are issued in two batches viz. morning and evening. Hence, try to be in for early morning batch so that you have some time to partially head towards one of the destinations of your plan or do it at ease and consider Leh local sightseeing as a side option for the day.
  • The application forms required to apply for the inner line permits are mostly available at the Photostat shops nearby (one is just behind Leh DC office). You can also download the inner line permit application form for Leh – Ladakh from the following download link as well: Inner Line Permit Form and Application Letter (Page 2).
  • Usually, the form remains the same so filling the attached form at home and completing the documentation including required photocopies can save a lot of trouble running to-fro from Photostat shops.
  • In the application form, for each member, you need to mention the name with parent/guardian name, complete permanent address, the name of all the places you need to visit, and the specific dates or date range for which you want these permits. At last, in the copy information section, you may mention the hotel name plus address you stayed or are staying in Leh.
  • You need to write Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, and Tso Moriri to cover all three major tourist spots in Ladakh. Writing Nubra Valley covers all the places in Nubra Valley, including Khardung La and Turtuk. However, writing Turtuk as well will not harm.
  • Besides permit application form, you need to write a request application letter addressing DC of Leh – Ladakh district for the approval of your permits.
  • In the inner line permit application, you need to express your interest in visiting the places you wish to travel along with the dates you would be visiting these places on your Leh – Ladakh trip.
  • Both the application form and this request letter should be in sync with each other for places, names, and dates. You can download the unfilled request application from the following download link: Inner Line Permit Form and Application Letter (Page 3).
  • Once, you complete filling the permit application form and writing the request application to accompany it, you make two-three photocopies of the entire set consisting of Application Form, Approval Request Application Letter, Photo – IDs of all the members requesting for the permits.
  • When the photocopies of the required set of documents are ready then you need to submit them at the DC office along with the original copies of the form and request application.
  • The clerk will ask you to deposit the fees for required permits (amount will depend on the number of days and number of members in the group) + red cross fund fees (Rs 10 per member) + Environment Fess (Rs 400 per member).
  • Once you deposit the fee, the clerk will put the stamp on the permits. In a few instances or special cases, the clerk may ask you to either get signed approval from the ADC room yourself, or he/she will place your documents in the ongoing batch for further approval. Of course, in the latter case, you will need to wait for the approved permits to arrive which usually takes some time about 1-3 Hrs.
  • Once, you get the stamped approved permits you need to go back to the photostat shop again to make photocopies of the approved permits.
  • These photocopies of the approved permits are submitted at every check post that comes up on the way to your sightseeing destinations in Ladakh, including Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, and Tso Moriri. Hence, you should make at least ten copies of them if you are staying long enough in this heaven.
  • The the validity of the inner line permits is three weeks for Indians and one week for foreigners. However, there is no limit on the number of times you enter a place in the valid period provided you have the permits with you for that place.
  • Although not required; you may carry the passport size photographs as well. I believe, on all your trips, you should carry the passport-sized photographs with you as none knows when you need one. Did you check my comprehensive list of things to carry on a Ladakh trip?
Shanti Stupa - Glittering in the evening
Hanle Village – The Hidden Gems of Ladakh

Inner Line Permits for Hanle

Yes, you can get the permit to travel to Hanle village by applying them to the DC office in Leh. There will be an additional stamp that they will put on the permit copies that will authorize you to travel to Hanle beyond the Loma check-post. Otherwise, the army will send you back from the Loma check-post.

Inner Line Permits for Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri direct route from Chusul

Yes, you can get the permit to travel on the direct route from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri that passes through Chusul village. The permit can only be applied in person at Leh DC office.

There will be an additional stamp that they will put on the permit copies that will authorize you to travel beyond Chusul check-post. Otherwise, the army will send you back from Chusul or Man Merak village check-post.

Inner Line Permits for Umling La Pass

No permit is available for traveling to Umling La pass and civilians are not allowed to travel to Umling La Pass. Some people traveled to it in the past

In 2017, BRO has built and opened the world’s highest road over Umlingla pass or Umling La connecting Chisumle and Demchok villages. Umling La pass is at an altitude of 5,883 Mtrs or 19,300 Feet. It is about 105 KMs from Hanle Village and about 235 KMs from Leh.

Other important things about permits for Hanle & Chusul

In order to get the permits for Hanle and Changthang or to travel from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri directly via Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma route, you need to mention all the places on the route so that you are not sent back from any check-post. These places are Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma (for Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri) and Hanle (if plan to visit Hanle too). The permits for inner Changthang & Hanle are issued only to Indian Nationals, not for foreign tourists.

Permits for Hanle & Chusul route are always issued subject to the present political or border situation. Sometimes, Leh DC office may not even issue the permits for Hanle and Chusul route. 

Even after getting the permits for Hanle and Chusul route with the extra stamp, do not consider it as 100% approval that you will be allowed to these places. Army guys have sent back many tourists since 2011, even having permits based on the actual political and border security situation. So, unless you pass the Chusul check-post or Loma check-post to the other side, there is no guarantee that you will not be returned in between on these routes.

One more thing that sometimes photography equipment is not allowed beyond Loma towards Hanle. So, in case you have cameras, then please pack them in bags and refrain yourself from taking pictures on the route of sensitive areas in Ladakh.

Here are the sample permits issued and stamped by the Tourist Information Center

Notice the stamp for Hanle permit at top & Pangong - Chusul Route
Notice the stamp for Hanle permit at top & Pangong – Chusul Route 
Nubra Valley Permit Stamp
Nubra Valley Permit Stamp
Tso Moriri Permit Stamp
Tso Moriri Permit Stamp

Best or Quick Approach to get Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permits

The best way to approach the processing of Leh Ladakh Inner Line Permits is to first download the application form. Completely fill the form and attach the photocopies of the photo ID nationality proofs with it for all members of the group.

Write a request application letter addressing Leh Ladakh DC expressing your intent to visit the desired places and request the issuing of inner line permits to you for the desired duration. If you are in a group, you can write the names of all the members on the group and attach copies of their photo id nationality proofs.

Staple the bundle including completely filled inner line permit application form, request application letter you will write for approval and the photocopies of photo id nationality proofs from home only.

Then, once you reach Leh, go to Leh DC office and submit the bundle along with the required fees. Get the permit stamped from the Leh DC Office. In case of permits for Hanle and Chusul, make sure you get the required stamps for these places. Otherwise, you will be sent back by the army from the midway.

On the way back to the hotel or sightseeing ahead, get 8-10 photocopies of the permits issued to you. You need to submit these photocopies of the permits at the check posts while going to Nubra, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Hanle, etc.

This will save a lot of time and energy for you in Leh. Otherwise, you will need to keep running up and down to photocopy shop for one thing or the other. Even to get the inner line permit form, you will need to go to the nearest photocopy shop, and all this will surely kill time and exert you in Leh.

Although highly unlikely, the worst-case scenario would be that the DC office changes the attached format of the inner line permit application form and refuse to take up the old version of it. 😥 Even, in that case, you will just need to fill the new form and attach the documents with it before submission.

Shanti Stupa - Glittering in the evening
Shanti Stupa – Glittering in the evening

Conclusion

I hope this article will help you get the required details on applying for the Inner Line Permits for Ladakh online as well as in person. As Ladakh Inner Line Permits are available online now, it will save a lot of hassles of moving around in Leh in the first few days from one shop to another to DC office.

Have a travel question?? You can subscribe to my YouTube channel and leave a comment to ask your travel questions about traveling to the Himalayas.

You are also not required to worry about any holidays or odd timings of reaching Leh and then applying for the permits in person at Leh DC office.

In case you find this article useful, feel free to share it with your family & friends who are looking out for a trip to Ladakh in this season. And if you have any further questions or doubts, in planning your trip to Leh Ladakh, please post them in the comments section of this article below.

Again at the end, to download the application form for Leh – Ladakh inner line permit you can click the following download link Ladakh Inner Line Permit Form and Application Letter

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I am Dheeraj Sharma - a traveler, techie, and Himalayan lover. Since 2009, I have been helping thousands of travelers every year plan memorable & budget-friendly trips to the Himalayas - Smartly, Safely, and responsibly.

1,147 Comments

  1. Comments section gets closed in 90 days. To ask your travel questions, you can follow my YouTube Channel for a faster reply or for a much slower reply follow me on Instagram. :)

  2. 11 of us are planning a trip to the region. Flying from Srinagar to Leh on Jul 24, and flying out of Leh on Jul 31. We have the following plan and would like to know if this is ok.

    Jul 24 – arrive and spend the night in Leh
    Jul 25 – Drive to Nubra Valley and spend the night in tent
    Jul 26 – Drive from Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso Lake, spend 2 nights in tent
    Jul 28 – Drive to Tso Moriri Lake, spend 2 nights in tent
    Jul 30 – Drive back to Leh, spend 1 night in Leh
    Jul 31 – Fly out of Leh

    Do you see any problem with this. Our dates in/out of Leh are fixed. If you can offer any suggestions for changing this, it would be appreciated.

    Also, 8 of us are US citizens, and 3 are Indian citizens. Will all of us be able to visit Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri?

    Can we get permits ahead of time? I’m concerned about the risk of getting permits once we arrive in Leh.

    Thanks for your help.

    • Day 1 | Delhi – Leh (By Flight)
      — Checkin at Hotel. Many hotels provide free pick and drop from Airport. Ask while you book them.
      — Take ample of rest as well as water or anything that keep your body hydrated enough. DO NOT OVER HYDRATE. Take ORS Soluted water or ORS – L tetra packs from home.
      — Do not over exert your body at any cost. Avoid too much up-down on stairs or avoid it in entirety, if possible.
      — After 5-6 Hrs of rest you can visit Leh Palace, Local Leh market, Shankar Gompa .
      — If you feel exerted go back to Hotel, have dinner at Hotel and take rest. Avoid any exertion. Else continue and,
      — Follow the sunset by stroll at Changspa road and have a nice dinner on varied cuisines offered in-around Changspa road.
      — Go back to hotel for overnight stay at Leh.
       
      Day 2 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
      — Hire a taxi from Leh taxi stand or Hotel whichever suits you.
      — Bargain hard with taxi driver. Book that single taxi for entire trip after explaining the complete plan.
      — Take his inputs if you feel reasonable and if required modify the plan accordingly but should suits you best.
      — Ask him to be with you guys starting first day itself, if required and charged reasonable else do it at your own.
      — Again DO NOT over exert and take little steps and slow walks only.
      — If feeling OK then do Local sightseeing. To know the about the places to visit check the link: Travel Guide for Local Sightseeing of Leh Town in Ladakh
      — Do not use stairs at any of these places just to see them as it will exert your body much more.
      — Overnight at Leh
       
      Day 3 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari
       
      Day 4 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 5 | Leh – Pangong Tso – Leh
      — Make a Day trip to Pangong Tso
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 6 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
      — Cover Karzok Monastery
      — Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri
       
      Day 7 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Taglang La – Upshi – Leh
      — Come back via Tso Kar and Manali – Leh Highway to Leh
      — Overnight at Leh

      Now instead of coming back to Leh on Day 4 from Nubra Valley, you can go to Pangong Tso directly using either Shyok Village route if that is open and driver agrees to do it OR you can take the Wari La route which is about 10+ hrs of drive. So start early and then skip Sumur and Panamik.

      You can get the permits in advance but since you are flying to Leh directly, you will have to stay there at least two days without much activity in order to acclimatize yourself.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

    • Guess, something went wrong with last reply. I also stated that if you stick to normal routes to Pangong tso and Tso Moriri then it should be fine for all of us to visit these places. But, non-Indian citizens are not allowed on direct routes of Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri.

  3. Could you comment on current (2012-2013) road conditions from Manali leading to Mahhri into the Spitti and Kinaur valleys? I have reliable information from 2008 that road conditions are not that good, but that there are road works in that area. Has anything improved since then? We are cycling up there.

    • Hi Philip,

      Well, the road conditions from

      Manali to Gulaba – Quite Fine
      Gulaba to Marhi – Average in normal time, quite quite bad in Monsoon
      Marhi to Rothang Pass to Gramphu – Bad
      Gramphu to Batal to Kunzum Pass to Losar – Again bad and nothing much would have changed since you last visited
      Losar to Kaza – Very Nice, smooth Tarmac
      Kaza to Tabo to Nako to Kalpa to Sangla – Over all very nice but in between some bad or rough patches.

      I hope that helps. Let me know for any doubts or queries.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Hi Dheeraj,
        How r u?
        Well if u can suggest that will it be a good decision to come Leh on 05 apr 2013? And would be able to have a stay in pangong and Tso moriri for 01 night each in camps by this time?

        Thanks in well advance,dear…
        Abhishek

        • Abhishek, you can fly to Ladakh at that time of the year. It will be very cold there but might be bearable if you are OK with cold conditions. Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri both will be frozen and no stay options would be running at that time of the year. Moreover, it is not recommended at all to stay overnight at Pangong Tso or Tso Moriri at that time of the year owing to extreme cold conditions.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • Hi Dheeraj,
          Thanks for ur kind advice, but are u sure that no night stay is recommended at pangong Tso & Tso moriri.
          As we have already booked our flights for the scheduled dates.
          If we can bear the cold condition than will it be possible for us?
          And will both Tso will be a beauty to watch at this type?
          Pl suggest dear…
          Thanks & Regards:-
          Abhishek

        • Abhishek, last year I was there in last week of April and it was super chill up there. None of the setups were up and running for accommodation at that time. My friends tried to camp there but it was mighty cold, expect temperatures well below zero. IN fact, in Leh itself it was like -6 degress and the super chilled winds makes it worse. Finally, my friend took a room and then installed the camp in that room and he was super chilled in that as well.

          Also, at this time of the year both Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri would be frozen. Check the pictures from the last year Travelogue in Travel Tales section. Pangong Tso was about to melt completely and Tso Moriri was mostly frozen only in April last week.

        • Thanks buddy for the same.
          It means we have rethink for coming…
          And hopefully roads would be closed…can u give some clarity on it as well plz.
          Thanks
          Abhishek

        • Abhishek, if you are directly flying to Leh then there will not be much issues because roads inside Ladakh are kept open all round the year. But, if want to go to Ladakh on a road journey via Manali or via Srinagar then yes, both Manali – Leh Road and Srinagar – Leh Road will be closed.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  4. ANAND K, TAMILNADU on

    Halo dheeraj myself travelling with my spouse &child by last week of april pls suggest some good hotels with heating facilites

    • Hi Anand,

      Some of the good hotels I am aware off are Lasermo, Omasila, Caravan Centre, Royal Heritage Resort, Cho Palace, Shaynam, Oriental etc. where you can find good facility and even heaters too if their budget suits you.

      April will be cold in Leh – Ladakh, do carry heavy woolens and stay wrapped in them there. Do not play with cold by neglecting it in Ladakh especially in initial days of your stay.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • ANAND K, TAMILNADU on

        thanks for u r valuable reply can u tell me approx cost by innova to leh locals,alchi,gurugwara,magnetic hill,hemis thiksey,big statue leh palace,nubra ,panamik,pangong and how to plan for 7 days

        • For the current leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2012-13 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

      • ANAND K, TAMILNADU on

        Halo dheeraj my trip to ladakh by april last week advance booking for rooms is required pls give ur valuable suggestion

        • Hello Anand,

          In April you will not need any pre-bookings for the rooms in Ladakh as it is completely off season at that time of the year.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  5. Rajesh Sharma on

    Dear sir
    we 15friends want leh ladakh tour on july 13 via manali spiti valley- keylong sarchu leh ladakh please help us leh ladakh visiting programme

    • Hi Rajesh,

      How many days you have in hand and what will be your mode of transport? I will reply accordingly.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Rajesh Sharma on

        we have 5 days in leh ladakh tour from delhi jammu baltal – kargil leh. please tell us is it ok to cover the important places of leh ladakh then we will go to sarchu via thso morri- debring sarchu. visiting time july 8th to july 14th.

        • Rajesh are these 5 days just for Leh – Ladakh. If yes, then how are you managing the Jammu – Baltal – amarnath yatra. Is it excluded in the days you have mentioned here?

        • Rajesh Sharma on

          we are in 5 days only in leh ladakh before coming to leh we are going to amaranath and vaishnov devi and after 5 days in leh ladakh to sarchu kaza manali ok

        • For 5 days in Ladakh, try follow the below itineary:

          Day 1 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits (6th August)
          — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
          — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 2 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
          — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
          — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
          — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

          Day 3 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
          — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 4 | Leh – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
          – Day trip to Pangong Tso
          – Overnight at Leh

          Day 5 | Leh – Taglang La – Moore Plains – Pang – Sarchu
          — Stay overnight at Sarchu

          Day 6 | Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
          — On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
          — Overnight at Manali

          Hope this helps, let me know in case of any further queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  6. I wanted to know if separate permission letters & form will be required for each car in the group. We will be going with 7 cars in the group.

    Also what is the current situation with Chusul route are we getting permits for it?

    • Hirak, Inner Line Permits are for individuals not for the car. So, every person must have their name on the permit with required fees paid in his/her name. If you have to traverse the Chusul route, it is better to make the trip in less touristy season ie late in the season. Most likely in season time permits may not be given but nothing certain if your lucky 😉

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • It just came to my mind that our dates are coinciding with the Ladakh Festival dates from 1st to 15th Sept. So I guess during this time Leh will be super crowded and so it will be difficult to get accommodations as well as permits to off beat places? Also how is the scenario in the entire region during these festivities.

        • Hirak, generally the accommodation will be moderately full not to the entirety apart from few popular hotels or guest houses. Yes, it will be crowded but not mostly by tourists or travellers but by guests, participants and locals who are more keen in the festival. In season time, it will be difficult to get the permits considering the records of past few years as they do not want any kind of nuisance to be created by irresponsible tourists, so they avoid it. You can shoot some really vivid colors and portraits if you are interested in taking them at that time of the year 🙂

          Regards
          Dheeraj

  7. Hello Sir,
    I would be visiting Leh- Ladakh region in mid-2013…
    1. In which routes foreigners are not allowed? Will I get permits for Turtuk, Shyok, Marsimik La, Man- Merak- Chususl- Tsaga- Loma- Hanle- Nyoma, Batalik- Dha- hanu etc. as a foreigner?
    2. Can you suggest some Travel Agent/ Guest House in Leh who can arrange permits in advance for me at a reasonable cost, for all the places I want to go, efficiently?
    3. If I want to go from Nubra to Pangong Tso and Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri directly, what (shortest) routes should I take as a foreigner?
    4. Can you plz list me the name of all the places I should put in the form so that I am not tuned back from any check post? I would like to cover Srinagar- Zanskar- Leh- Nubra Valley- Pangong Tso- Tso Moriri- Manali in 3 weeks.
    Thanks in advance.

    • Hi Rez,

      1. Nopes, you will not get the permits for Marsimik La, Man – Merak – Chusul – Hanle – Nyoma route. But, you can get the permits for Batalik, Dha-Hanu and might be even for Turtuk. Tough I am not sure of Turtuk.

      2. You can check with Asia Guest House, Shanti Guest House, Oriental, Shaynam Hotel, Sia La for getting the permits. Contacts in below link of list of hotels in Leh Ladakh

      3. Pangong – Nubra, you can take either Wari La or Shyok route wich ever is open. For Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri, you will have to follow the traditional route only which takes you all the back to Karu, just 36 KMs before Leh and then you move left towards Tso Moriri.

      4. You do not need any permits for Zanskar Valley. Rest just put Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Shyok, Wari La, Turtuk.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know in case you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  8. hi, i want to visit in june from ambala, kalpa, nako, kaza, chandra tal lake, keylong, pangong tso, tso moriri, and back to manali without going leh due to leh taxi union problem. so can i get leh inner permit from leh to visit tso lakes, can any travel agent arrange inner permit by post or hand over me by rout pls help me. if i can do so i can save lot of money from leh taxi rules

    • Manish, can’t you hire a taxi with private number? Also, you can get the permits in advance through some fax or email but the real problem is that your body will not be acclimatized by then to sleep at High altitudes lakes of Ladakh ie Tso Moriri and Pangong Tso. Plus, for the direct route to Pangong Tso from Tso moriri it will be highly difficult to get the permit without your presence and one mistake in writing down the place would let you stranded and make you return from that place along with the loss of money given for the advance permits.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  9. Hi there..We are a group of 6 people…and we are planning to camp at pangong lake for around 2 days/nights.

    We are planning to reach leh on the 28th of december, 2012. We would be leaving back to delhi on the 1st of january, 2013.

    Please let me know what could be our options to fully utilize this (short) trip to laddakh.

    • Hi Faraz,

      In December it is not possible to camp aside Pangong Tso, I mean not advisable at all else you might like to freeze there. You will have to stay at Tangste in some guest house may be and then make trip to Pangong Tso from there and come back. Acclimatize for the first two days in Leh only and then head for a day trip to Pangong Tso and be back in Leh. On the last day, make a day trip to Sham Valley or Khardung La pass and leave for Delhi on 5th day.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know in case you have any query or doubt.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  10. Sheikh Aziz on

    Hi,
    I have planned for leh from 31st march to 8th of april,2013. Is it good time to visit Leh? and How many days does it require to explore most of the places?
    Will the roads inside leh open in first week of leh?
    TIA

    • Hello Aziz,

      Well, it will be cold up there at that time of the year and limited options of food. I was there in late April this year and for couple of days we had trouble finding chapati 🙂 … Since, roads to Leh – Ladakh will NOT be open so you will be flying in and out of Leh. You will need about 8-9 days to epxlore most of the places and keep in mind that both Tso Moriri and Pangong Tso would most likely be frozen at that time of the year.

      Regards
      Dheeraj sharma

      • Hi Dheeraj,

        We 6 ppl are planning to fly to Leh on 28th April 2013.
        Will it be possible to visit all the main places, at that period of year?
        I mean, Khardung la would be opened at that time?

        Can you also please refer a good place to stay near Pangong lake?

        Regards,

        Dipali Abhyankar

        • Hi dipali,

          Yes, the inroads in Ladakh remain open all round the year. So, you can visit all the major tourist destination at time of the year. Only exception could be fresh snowfall on those dates only when you plan to travel Staying on Pangong Tso will not be possible and you will have to stay at some guest house at Tangste about 34 KMs before Pangong Tso.

          I hope this helps. Please let me know in case you have any query or doubt.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • Hi Dheeraj,

          Thanks for your reply.
          Please let me know if this plan looks ok.

          4th May : reaching Leh Airport t @ 8pm

          5th May : rest & Shanti Stup, shopping etc

          6 & 7th may : Nubra valley, Diskit, Hunder etc

          8 & 9th May : alchi, Lamayuru, Gurudwara, Magnetic hill etc etc

          10& 11th May : on way to Pangong, covering few monasteries.
          11th May eve : back to Leh.
          12th May : flight to Delhi

          Regards,

          Dipali Abhyankar

        • Dipali, I think it is 8 AM 🙂 … Visit Alchi, Lamayuru first and then head for Nubra Valley of 8,9. Rest looks perfect 🙂 … And yeah, do take ample of rest on first two days without any kind of exertion.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  11. Hi Dheeraj!

    I have been a follower of your passionate & updated website for quiet some time as I am planning to visit the Srinagar- Leh/ Ladakh- Manali route next year. I have 2 options: (i) 2nd & 3rd week of August 2013 or (ii) 2nd & 3rd week of October 2013; which time-frame would be the better option for the trip? i.e. Will the August option create some problem regarding extra security checks/ threat of attack/ extra restrictions to visit places within Leh/ Ladakh due to Independence Day and also rain? Will the October option be too cold/ risky o visit places by road in the region?

    One more thing, I am from Bangladesh. I have heard that Bangladeshis need to take permission from the Indian Home Ministry to visit some places in the region. Is this requirement still in place, or has it been relaxed (i.e. is it now possible to get permits for Bangladeshis after reaching Leh?)?

    Hope you won’t mind answering my queries (current & future)… 🙂

    Thanks in advance.

    • Hello Sharyar,

      Well out of the two I will favor August window though you might need to battle a bit with monsoons in the lower hills over Manali – Leh Highway and Srinagar – Leh Highway. October will be cold and especially risky for road journey over Manali – Leh highway and accommodation problems as well at lot of places.

      I guess that is still applicable regarding permits but I am not 100% sure 🙁

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you need any further details or have any queries.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

    • Shahryar, were you able to get the permits? If yes, can you please let us know the experience or process of getting it. Someone from Bangladesh really need to know. May be it will help them plan their trip successfully. Please help.

  12. Nattaporn Booranasrisak on

    Dear Dheeraj H.,
    I and my team (total 4 prs incld. myself) are from Thailand. We are extremely want to visit Ladakh in June 12-19, 2013. I would like to ask about the Hemis Festival on June 18, 2013. There’ll be Hemis Festival on June 18-19, So would it be possible if we will go and take a night at Pangong Tso on June17, and depart from Pangong on early June 18, then enroute visit the festival ?? Please kindly answer. Regards.

    • Hello Nattaporn,

      It takes about 5-6 Hrs from Pangong Tso to reach to Hemis if you do not stop too often on the way. You can leave abbout 5 AM in the morning and may be able to see some part of that festival for sure. Or else make a day trip to Pangong Tso if you do not want to miss out on anything.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  13. Appaji Apte on

    We are group of 4 senior citizens bet 62 to 65 planning Leh trip via Manali and reaching Srinagar. Duration 12 days. Can u suggest itinery?

    • Hello Appaji,

      Firstly, I will suggest you that please plan it in other direction as going via Srinagar – Leh Highway will be much much easier on your body and help you acclimatize to the high altitude of Manali – Leh Highway. Also, it allows you to enjoy the beauty of Manali – Leh by splitting the journey almost evenly in two days which is very difficult in the other direction. Thirdly, it will allow you to fit Tso Moriri lake into the itinerary in better way. You can read more reasons on the link here

      You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travelers including me at the link here for 14-15 days: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh.

      For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh (Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri) including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

      For the current leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2012-13 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

      Check the list of things to carry for Leh – Ladakh or other trip including basic medical kit, clothing, must haves etc. at the link here: List of Things to Carry for Leh – Ladakh trip.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know in case you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  14. Hi Dheeraj,
    please guide us regarding the ILP.
    We want to visit Nubra Valley(Deskit,Hunder,Panamik,Sumur),Pangong Tso, Tso moriri and Tso Kar and Sham Side. In that case whether I have to write ‘Nubra,Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri’ or have to mention Tso kar also?
    Waiting for your reply.

    • Hello Nirmalya,

      Just mention Nubra,Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri. There is no need to mention Tso Kar.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know in case you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  15. I and my friend are planning to go to Leh in May-June for 15 Days by our own car and the route would be Delhi – Manali – Rohtang – Ladakh – Leh – Pangong Tso – Kargil – Srinagar – Delhi. Please let me know, how should we arrange the Permits and for what all places do we need to apply permits for?

    • Hello KP,

      Firstly, I will suggest you that please plan it in other direction as going via Srinagar – Leh Highway will be much much easier on your body and help you acclimatize to the high altitude of Manali – Leh Highway. Also, it allows you to enjoy the beauty of Manali – Leh by splitting the journey almost evenly in two days which is very difficult in the other direction. Thirdly, it will allow you to fit Tso Moriri lake into the itinerary in better way. You can read more reasons on the link here

      You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travelers including me at the link here for 14-15 days: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh.

      For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh (Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri) including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

      For details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here

      Check the list of things to carry for Leh – Ladakh or other trip including basic medical kit, clothing, must haves etc. at the link here: List of Things to Carry for Leh – Ladakh trip.

      For hatchback/sedan taking on Manali – Leh Highway and Ladakh, I will say:

      You will indeed face few tough challenges on the route. The hatchback/sedan will increase the level of every challenge even further, sedan is the worst candidate. My suggestion will be to go via Srinagar route as it will help you feel comfortable with the driving, provide more acclimatization and then once you have done the local Leh-Ladakh, then come back via Manali side. Secondly, since you are in hatch/sedan, then you need to drive with extra care as well. There will be some sections on the Manali – Leh highway in which you might need to sacrifice some scratches on the underbelly. Just make sure you do not bump the engine sump (know it before where it is placed in your car). You need to protect it all around the trip. Thirdly, whenever in doubt do not rush into the section rather park aside and feel the section with your foot, see how other vehicles are crossing it and make a planned route in your mind to cross that section. At the very least do carry Mseal, quick fix, funnel, jerry cans and towing rope with you all the time.

      Also, I will strongly suggest that you go through and read my series on Ladakh Self Drive tips at the links below:

      7 Useful Tips for a Self Drive to Leh – Ladakh, Routes and Road Conditions In Leh – Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips, Fuel Availability In Leh – Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips

      I hope this helps. Please let me know in case you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  16. Hi Dheeraj,

    Thanks for your quick response. Need answer to one more question. Below is my travel plan , can you tell me what all places should i write in application form for inner line permits.

    1) Nubra Valley via Khardungla,Deskit and Hunder Village.

    2) Pangong Lake through Changla Pass.

    3) Tsomoriri Lake- Sumda -Polokongka pass – Chumathang – Tsokar- Leh

    • I hope it is not that late but still you need to write Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Nubra Valley only to visit above places you have mentioned.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      PS -> Sorry for the delayed reply, I was traveling Zanskar Valley for past 9-10 days and was away from network.

  17. Praveen Kumar on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Need 1 more help is there and connecting route between Leh-Pangong Tso- Tso Moriri- to leh manali highway without coming back to leh.

    Please guide.

    Thanks
    Praveen

    • Hi Praveen,

      Though the permits are not being issued for this route but it goes like: Pangong Tso – Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma – Mahe – Sumdo – Tso Moriri.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  18. Praveen Kumar on

    Dear Dheeraj,

    I have 1 query. will we can roam in leh region in our own personal vehicle (white number plate) or we have to hire local taxi from there to visit leh region. I heard that they are not allowing taxi outside J&K in leh region. will this case is also applicable for private vehicle. Also i am writing below application letter for inner line permission. Pls go thru it and let me know if i have missed out something to mention.

    Thanks
    Praveen

    We (a group of 5 persons) came here as a tourist from New Delhi to visit Ladakh region for sightseeing purposes. We are keenly interested in visiting regions around “Nubra Valley, Turtuk, Hanle, Changthang and Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri ” and for the same we intend to stay from ………………….. to ………………….. in Ladakh region. Our mode of transport will be by our own vehicle number PB10 U 0866
    We request you to kindly grant permission so that we can get the required permits to visit the above mention places. We shall be highly grateful to you.
    Thanking You.

    • Hello Praveen,

      As long as it is white number plate, you will be allowed no problems with it. Regarding the letter, you will not get the permits for Pangong Tso to Tso MOriri route. But, in case you want to try you need not write Changthang but thhese places: Man, Merak, Chusul, Tsaga, Loma, Nyoma, Hanle. Most likely you will be denied permits for Chusul and Tsaga.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Praveen Kumar on

        Thanks Dheeraj for the info. I will try if they can give permit else we have no option to take a longer route. Just tell 1 more thing do i write changthang only for this route or i have to write all these place Man, Merak, Chusul, Tsaga, Loma, Nyoma, Hanle in permission letter.

        Thanks once again for ur grate support

  19. noman hasan on

    Hi Dheeraj sir,
    Really helpful & truly great article sir.
    Sir here I need ur help. Actually v group of 4 people intrested to visit srinagar + leh. I am going to reach srinagar on 15th october in my personal Xylo from gujarat. I would like to cover srinagar & leh both in max 10 days. is that fairly possible??
    Can u plz suggest me an ideall itinerary as per experience

    • Hi Noman,

      It is difficult to cover Srinagar – Leh – Srinagar in 10 days ex. Delhi because it requires 4 days to reach Leh from Delhi via Srinagar and then 4 days for coming back. This way you will have just one day for Leh – Ladakh. Is that OK for you?

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      • noman hasan on

        Thank u sir.
        Sir i am reaching to srinagar on 15th oct & i gonna leave it on 27th oct. so i hv complete 12 days in sringar. So i can manage 4 days in srinagr, 4 days leh & 4 days for traveling to Leh & back.
        So sir i want d itinerary for d key places to cover.
        Sir i also want one info regarding d car. Actually i heard tht in some places of leh as well in srinagar, local taxi drivers are not allowing d private cars to go for some sight seeing. Can i roam each & every place in my personal ( white number plate car).

        And wht aboout d road condition of srinagar-leh highway. Actully i am a good driver but not d professional off road driver. Can a person like me drive ovr thr?

        • Hi Noman,

          Nopes, this is not correct you can ply your private car anywhere in Ladakh and no one can stop unless otherwise it has a yellow number plate registered outside the Ladakh region. Srinagar – Leh would be in much better shape at that time considering dry weather those days. DO take care of heavy woolens as winters would have arrived there and it could get very cold

          That is good amount of time you have and in such a case you can do the following plan covering both the routes from Srinagar to Leh

          Day 1 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
          — Enjoy the vistas enroute
          — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
          — Overnight at Kargil

          Day 2 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
          — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
          — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 3 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
          — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
          –For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 4 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
          — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
          — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
          — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

          Day 5 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
          — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 6 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake – Tangste
          — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
          — Overnight at Tangste as Pangong Tso accommodation might have been closed

          Day 7 | Tangste – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
          — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 8 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
          — Cover Karzok Monastery
          — Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri (Overnight might not be possible in camps so Homestay is the option)

          Day 9 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Taglang La – Upshi – Leh
          — Come back via Tso Kar and Manali – Leh Highway to Leh
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 10 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 11 | Leh – Batalik – Kargil
          — You can cover Dha/Hanu Villages on the way but DO NOT forget to take the permits for Dha / Hanu and Batalik
          — Overnight at Kargil

          Day 12 | Kargil – Drass – Zozi La – Sonamarg – Srinagar
          — Enjoy the vistas enroute
          — Have late drunch meal at Sonamarg
          — Overnight at Srinagar

          I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • noman hasan on

          Thank u very much for ur kind & quick response.
          But sir I want d itinirary for 4 to 5 days for d key places of Srinagar & 4 to 5 days of leh(excluding travelling).
          Actually none of my friend hv any idea about any place of d J & K.
          Thank u sir

        • Hi Noman,

          In that case, you can have a two day trip to Nubra Valley and one day trip to Pangong Tso. Plus one day local sightseeing and permits day in Leh only. For Srinagar make a 2 day trip to Pahalgam and a day trip to Gulmarg lus a day in Srinagar.

          I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • noman hasan on

          thank u sir,
          I will surely share my experience regargind d trip after coming back..
          thank u,,

      • noman hasan on

        here sir i would like to ask one more query.
        Actually v all people r going for the first time to srinagar & leh.
        Is thr any requirment to hire a local tourist guide over thr in srinagar & leh or its any of nearby sights like gulmarg & pehalgam?
        if yes then approx hw much they cost per day. if u hv contact of any good person ovr thr thn plz share it…

        • Hi Noman,

          You do not need any local guide buddy. You have the plan with you and rest places to visit can be found in this blog in the Ladakh section in various itineraries. Your cab guy whom you will hire will be the best guide for you. So no need to get any guide.

          Regards
          Dheeraj

  20. Itinerary

    31st August 2012
    Mumbai to Leh (Flight) Will reach around 10 AM

    Leh Local Sight Seeing + Inner Line Permits
    Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Changspa Road

    1st Sept 2012
    Leh – Excursion to Alchi Return to Leh
    Likir, Magnetic Hill, Hall of Fame, Confluence of Indus & Zanskar River

    2nd
    Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
    Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
    Overnight at Leh

    3rd
    Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder

    4th
    Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh

    5th
    Leh – Kargil via Lamayuru Overnight at Kargil

    6th
    Kargil Sonamarg Srinagar (Stay at Dal Lake)
    Srinagar via Drass

    7th
    Srinagar Overnight in Srinagar
    Shankaracharya Hill, Char Chinar, Nishant Bagh.

    8th September 2012
    Srinagar to Mumbai (Flight) Will leave at 4PM

    1. Can you help improve this itinerary?
    2. What places should we write on the IPL Form for permits?
    3. As we will be arriving directly to Leh from Mumbai(sea-level) how should we take care of Acclimatization?
    4. How should we go about hiring a taxi for Leh Tour and Leh-Kargil-Srinagar?
    5. The plan from 5th to 8th September(Leh-Kargil-Srinagar) doesn’t feel right, can you suggest some places here?

    We are a group of 3 guys in mid 20s.

    Thanks

    • Hi Mahesh,

      It would have been much better if it had been the other way round. But still,

      1. Try to do Nubra Valley first and then a day trip to Pangong Tso. You will feel much more better at Pangong Tso on fifth day than on third day itself.

      2. Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso will be sufficient.

      3. Just take rest for the first day, ONLY REST. In the early evening get out of hotel and have short slow walks. Drink plenty of fluids and do keep the body optimally hydrated as you do not also want to over hydrate yourself.

      4. For the current leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2012-13 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

      5. While on the way to Kargil from Leh, you can cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes, Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu. Ahead of Kargil, watch out for Kargil War Memorial.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  21. Sir,
    I will reach there on 5th sep.
    Can you update me about issuing permits for Hanle route ?

    With Thanks
    Swapnil K., Nagpur

    • Also one more querry regarding permit.At the top no sufficient place provided to mension Pangong tso, man merek chushul hanle…….Tsomoriri, nubra. Where to write all these ? Also I hope will get permit for Shyok route ……

      • I do not think you need to mention Shyok Village as it is in Nubra Valley and will be covered and yes, there is no enough space and you can write outside it but try to use tiny letter to accommodate as much as possible in that box. Pangong Tso, Nubra Valley, Wari La, Tso Moriri, Man, Merak, Chusul, Tsaga, Loma, Hanle, Nyoma is all that you have to mention on the permit. BTW, shyok route is closed since last updates and I do not think it would have opened up considering so much rains.

        Regards
        Dheeraj

    • Still, they are not issuing. Infact if you read the above comments, I guess by Kunal, you will find that after his so many request he gave him the permit upto Chusul and but not Tsaga which meant he could take an under construction route from Chusul to Mahe which only 4×4 prefer as per army guys. So, might be tough to get but still you can request DC/ADC there.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  22. Hi Dheeraj,

    In a group of 4 shouls all fill forms or only 1 form is enough for 4 ppl. plz tel

    • Hello R Singh,

      Only one form can be used for all 4 people.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  23. Hello Dheeraj,

    thank you so much for all the effort that you’re putting in helping everyone out. I really need your help as our flight to leh is on 29th though we’ve booked the return from srinagar i wanted to ask you and give us tips as to utilize best of these days.. dis is what i’ve planned after reading ur post :

    29: day 1 : Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
    – Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
    –For more details on inner line permits process

    30 : day 2 : | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
    – Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
    – On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
    – Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

    31: Day 3 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
    – Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
    – Overnight at Leh

    1: Day 4 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
    – Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
    – Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)

    2: Day 5 | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
    – Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
    – Overnight at Leh

    3: Day 6 :
    Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
    – Cover Karzok Monastery
    – Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri

    do u think we’d be able to go back to srinagar before 5th sept or we shud take return flight from leh to make the best of everything?

    • Hello Ishan,

      I think you should have done ti reversed but anyways now it seems late. You should not do Khardung La top on the very second day of the trip rather stay in Leh itself and acclimatize there for the second day as well. Only if you guys feel well, then go to Nubra Valley. I do not think you have time to visit Tso Moriri so better drop it and use that extra day to acclimatize in Leh on the second day. You need 2 days to return to Srinagar as well, so you nly have the option to do Pangong Tso as day trip because on 3rd you have to start back to Srinagar to reach there before 5th Sept.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  24. Hi Dheeraj, thanks a lot for your blog and all the information! I was in Ladakh in 2005 so it is very useful to get uptodate! Do you also by any chance have an inner line permit application form for foreigners to download? Thank you in advance. Regards. Natalie

    • Hi Natalie,

      I guess it is applied with the same form even for foreigners, though not 100% sure. But, problem is that there is a rule that foreigners can apply permits in group and through a Travel agent only. So, even if you get the permit form in advance, I do not think you can manage it without Travel agent.

      Sorry for the delayed reply.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  25. Hi Dheeraj,

    I am planning to travel to Leh between 25-29 of August.

    Plan is Delhi-Leh-Delhi (Air)

    ay 1) – sightseeing
    of Japness Shanti Stupa, leh palace.
    Day 2) Nubra valley, PM Sightseeing of
    Samstanling monastery & Panamik hot spring overnight stay.
    Day 3) return to Leh en route visit Deskit
    Monastery Hunder Sand Dune, Indian
    Army Hall of fame, Grudwara Pather Saab, Magnetic hill, Sangam Point.

    Day 4) – Excursion to Pongong lake,evening back to leh.

    Day 5 ) leh -delhi (Air)

    i would really appreciate your quick response on the above itenary?

    • Hi Pranay,

      Considering the number of days the plan is OK but just I am a bit concerned about the fact that you will be crossing Khardung La the second day itself and will have a long exerted day, so you might get caught with AMS. Try to increase a day buddy!! If not, then if you feel alright on the second day then only move to Nubra Valley and stay as less as possible at Khardung La pass. If not feeling well, then do not go there rather rest for the day in Leh and do day trip to Khardung La the next day.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  26. Hello dheeraj bhai…Had a wonderful trip of ladakh… A BIG hanks to u for all your guidance…Ladakh is just amazing….regarding inner line permits on chushul route ,I went to ADC,after a lot of persuading he gave me permits till man merak chusul but he was adamant that he wont give permit till tsaga,so i said to him whats the point in having the permits till chushul only as i want to travel till tsomoriri from pangong.ADC showed me a map and suggested to take the man,merak,chushul -mahe route.To this i told him i have never heard about this route and my driver must also not be aware of it,so next came in my driver in front of the ADC!!!!!! The ADC immediately dialled to the SP of leh asking about the road conditions from chushul to Mahe and the SP responded that the roads were fine…I was escatic that I will travel on some new route. Now On reality grounds…My driver Phunsukh was damn sure that the route was not good,regzin met me just outside ADC office he also said that the route is not good and not done by any one.

    But I had decided that i will take this route and felt how can the ADC and The SP be wrong???

    But then I thought ,what if the route was really bad???? then I will have to come back from chushul to tangste and then to karu route which will make me short by a day!!!!

    So in consultation with my driver we went to a BRO office along the highway near Tangste,there met an official who was incharge of the chushul route,he said he had returned just 3 days ago after inspecting the chushul -mahe route and that it was in pathetic condition!!!!!! only 4*4 vehicles and military trucks are able to cross that road,he suggested not to take that route and moreover said if you get struck then you wont be rescued before 2-3 days as hardly any vehicles take that route….then again went to an ITBP office nearby to check if i can get permit for tsaga,,,but was denied the permission so i enquired about the chushul -mahe route….again this officer also said the same story to me!!!! and he informed that the road was still under construction its a 77km road and only 55 km is constructed rest of the part is kaccha and has a lot of snow melted and huge stones.So finally i took the karu upshi route.

    Moral of the story is ,Please dont follow the ADC blindly also do the reality check and know the facts…Thank you

    • Hi Kunal,

      As said earlier, thanks a ton for sharing this valuable information. It will surely help decide others. Yes, those routes are still in the making and you should not take that route unless you are on 4×4 and not sure why they have stopped the permits to such an extent that even after pleading so much and showing genuine interest they are not issuing it. You will not believe that one of the clerk said you do not need any permit for this route and you can go along but I knew he did not know anything about the route. So, in ant writing I mentioned those places and told him that I will go to DC/ADC to talk to if required and asked him to take money and continue with his job. So, one shall keep doing reallity check every other turn/post you see on such obsolete roads/routes. I hope a lot of people learn from this experience. Thanks again for sharing it!!

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Is it possible over bike …? Route seems to be really short cut,
        ADC k bat me dum hai !
        😉

        • Do not attempt it as the route is under construction and if you get stuck alone there, then you are alone for sure and on your own. Help will be very hard to find brother 🙂 … Uski baat mein dum to hai but office mein baid kar sab aasan lagta hai and mind you even the toughest roads are very easy for locals and when they say it is tough or little difficult then better stay away from that route or go with backup.

          Regards
          Dheeraj

    • Hi Swapnil,

      You can get permit on Saturday if it is not a second Saturday or any other local or national holiday. You cannot get permit on Sunday.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

    • Sir,

      Many more thanks for replying every single query till date.
      (Hope I will not not trouble you more in future 😉 )
      Information provided by you & quick replies were really helpful for planning my tour to Ladakh (first time).
      I will be there from 5th to 20th Sep,12. I am sure after going through all your informations I will be having safe & colorful journey 🙂

      I really had nice time reading your all blogs 🙂 All were wonderful. Wish you great future ahead & your life full of achievements in all aspects.

      Have a pictorious tour of Zanskar ! TC

      Thanks & Regards
      Swapnil Kotpalliwar

      • Hi Swapnil,

        This is awesome!! Could not ask for a better start for the day… Thanks buddy for much appreciation and glad that me and my blog was helpful for you planning the trip and I must say you should share your wonderful and colorful experience as guest post on my blog too once you are back in town and hope that you will keep coming back to blog for any info. or reading at least some travelogues of mine 😉 …

        Have a rocking trip!!

        Regards
        Dheeraj Sharma

  27. Hi Dheeraj,

    As per our phone conversation(on reference of Vishal Dwivedi), I have sent an email on Tuesday but I am not sure you have received my mail. I might have sent it on wrong email id.
    Anyways, could you please send me contact info of some travel agents to get in advance the Inner line permits for Leh.

    We have decided the following route (if possible and roads are not blocked)
    Leh – Nubra Valley (till Turtuk) – Pangong Tso Lake (via Wari La) – Tso Moriri Lake (via Chusul) – Tso Kar Lake – Leh

    I think we need permits for all the below places for 7-8 days:
    1. Nubra valley (hope it covers Khardunga La, Panamik, Sumur, Diskit, Hunder)
    2. Turtuk
    3. Siachen Base Camp
    4. Agam
    5. Wari La
    6. Chang La
    7. Shyok
    8. Pangong Tso Lake (hope it covers till Spangmik village)
    9. Man
    10. Merak
    11. Chusul (hope it includes Chusul war memorial)
    12. Tsaga
    13. Loma
    14. Nyoma
    15. Mahe
    16. Chumathang
    17. Hanle
    18. Tso Moriri Lake
    19. Tso Kar
    20. Dah village
    21. Hanu village
    22. Batalik

    Do we have to mention all the above places on our permit as per our route OR can some of the above places need not be required to be mentioned on permit?

    If we would not be able to follow the above route and we have to start and come back to Leh each time for Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso and Tso-Moriri, then do we have to mention any other place in between on Permit?
    Leh-Nubra- Leh
    Leh-Pangong Tso-Leh
    Leh-Tso Moriri-Leh

    I believe that we do not need permits for Nimmu, Alchi, Likir, Lamayuru, Kargil, Zanskar valley (Rangdum, Padum etc). Please confirm.

    Thanks a lot for your help.

    Regards,
    Somesh Tayal

    • Hi Somesh,

      You need to write following: Nubra Valley, Turtuk, Wari La, Pangong Tso, Man, Merak, Chusul, Tsaga, Loma, Nyoma, Hanle, Tso Moriri. If oginto Dha Hanu Villages, then write them as well, if going to Batalik then write it as well. Rest you do not need to write.

      The permits to Man – Merak – Chusul or remote Changthang routes including Marsimik La and Wari La are still not being given by DC office in Leh, so keep your fingers crossed and hope for the best if they start issuing the permits by the time you visit. Otherwise, you have to take the traditional routes only.

      In second case just write: Nubra Valley, Turtuk, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri. Yes, you do not need permits for Sham Valley and Zanskar.

      You can get in touch with Hotel Shaynam: 01982252345, 09419178484 and Shanti Guest House: +91-1982-253084, +91-1982-250023, +91-9419178760, +91-9419888833, +91-9906982118 to get the permits. Please keep in mind that chances of getting Changthang permit via Travel agent or any hotel is more slimmer.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  28. Dibyendu Chowdhury on

    Hello Mr. Dheeraj

    I am planning to visit Leh via Srinagar-Leh route. Will it be ok to travel with my 20m old child? If yes, then is any ID required for her to obtain the passes to visit the places from Leh?
    Waiting for ur reply

    • hi Dibyendu,

      Well, you do not need any permit for such a small child and even if the permit would be required, then you will not need the ID proof. But, for safer side, cary the birth certificate copy with you if in worst case they ask for it. Also, brother, please take extreme care of your child and monitor the well being constantly. In any day, you feel he/she is feeling irritated, having nausea try not to go anywhere but rest or possibly descend from that altitude to lower regions. Though Srinagar – Leh Highway will help you increase the height in gradual manner but still since, such a small child cannot explain the uneasiness at his own, so keep an eye on him/her all the time. Do keep your bodies hydrated (NOT Over-Hydrated) and avoid any exertion, jumping around for first few days.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  29. Kunal Sanghavi on

    Hello Dheeraj bhai,

    Sirji,If I take the traditional route from leh to tsomoriri,tso kar and Hanle then which places should I write on the permits?????

    Thanks a lot for all your advices…..

    • Hey Kunal,

      In order to take traditional route to Hanle from Leh, you need to mention Loma, Nyoma, Hanle. For Tso Moriri, mention Tso Morri and for Pangong Tso mention Pangong Tso. Then for Nubra Valley – mention nubra Valley and if going to Turtuk then mention Turtuk as well.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  30. Vikas Bhagat on

    Mr. Dheeraj,
    After reading the complete details on Inner Line Permits, I think I wont be able to go to Tso Moriri Lake directly from Sarchu, I think I have to go to Leh first, take the permit & then back to Sarchu to Korzok & Tso Moriri for our Trekking, if m wrong anywere or u feel that our Initiary is wrong. ….Sir can u please suggest me…!!

  31. kunal sanghavi on

    Dheeraj bhai,
    My plan is to straight away head to pangog from diskit the what should i write on my permit??? and if i go to hanle and tsomoriri then which all places need to be mentioned in the permit…please reply sson as i am leaving in a couple of days..HAS the DC started approving permits from pangong to tsomoriri???

    Thanks a TOn in advance…

    • Hello Kunal,

      Well, I have no idea if the permits have been resumed but in order to do Nubra to Pangong Tso, you need to write Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Wari La on the permit form. And, in order to do Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri, you need to mention Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Hanle – Nyoma – Tso Moriri. Do not miss anyone else you will be sent back, highly likely. They are extremely strict in that region

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  32. rakesh rawat on

    hi, We group of 4 with one infant are visiting leh on 10/Aug/2012 for 5 days, please suggest how can i get inner line permit for infant as he is not having any ID proof…please guide on this…

    • Hi Rakesh,

      You do not need any permit for infant, even if in the worst case the clerk asks for it OR if I am mistaken, just carry the birth certificate with you. I do not think it will be required 99% 🙂

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  33. Sorry I miss one point.

    We are two travelling together.
    Can we get the ILP on our own or do we have to go through a travel agency ? Thanks

    Yogie

    • Hi Yogie,

      Being foreigners you will have to go through the Travel agent as I guess there is a minimum requirement of 4 in a group and that too through some travel agent/hotel for foreigners.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  34. Hi Dheeraj,

    Thanks for the detailed guidelines on getting ILP.

    I wish to visit Nubra Valley, Tso Moriri and Pangon Tso using Leh as a hub. As we have to return to Leh after visiting each place, it is most likely that we can’t finish the three places within 7 days. What can we do ? Apply two IPL at the same time or apply another one when the first one expired ?
    We are holding foreign passports.

    Thanks for your advice.

    Regards,

    Yogie

    • Hi Yogie,

      Okies, so you do not have any choice than to return back to Leh because you will not be allowed on any non-traditional routes in Ladakh. All traditional routes starts from Leh itself. I suppose you are foreigners, and if not then you have validity of 3 weeks not 1.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  35. Sanjiv Sawhney on

    Just returned from Manali – Leh – Srinagar trip, Pangong, Nubra Valley. All the roads were open and weather was fabulous. We stayed at Hotel Thongsal at Leh. It was quite comfortable with 24hrs electricity and hot water. Mr Sonam Rinchen at hotel even arranged our permits in advance. Complimentary wifi was quite handy for skyping back home.

    • Hey Sanjiv, that’s awesome. Glad to read that you enjoyed your trip to fullest. Please try and share few pictures with us too at FB page may be 🙂

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  36. Hi Dheeraj,
    Need your views once again:)
    1. A Jispa travel agent told me that PAN cards may not be accepted as ID Proof. Is this true?
    2. Photocopies of ID Proofs need to be self attested, or by gazetted officers?
    3. What is the scope and availablity of ATMs in Manali, on Manali-Leh Highway and Ladakh?
    Thanks!!

    • Hello Partha,

      1. Yes, this might be true because recently PAN card is not being accepted by many GOVT. Departments but I am not 100% sure because I also believe that they should.
      2. Though they do not need attested one, but you can have them self-attested at least.
      3. In Leh there 4-5 ATMs now but no where else in Ladakh, in Manali they have couple of ATMs, in Keylong again I guess there is one and rest of the Manali – Leh Highway do not have any. It is better that you carry money from Manali and do not rely on Keylong one.

      Regards
      Dheeraj sharma

      • Thanks again! Your assistance is one of the most valuable aid for all the visitors.

        • Partha Mitra on

          Hi Dheeraj,
          Finally we are back from a mesmerizing trip to Ladakh. Missed out Tso Moriri, though. Anyways seems like should visit again, as so much of beauty can’t be absorbed in a single trip.
          Thanks to you for everything, but a special thanks for your info on Inner Line Permits – we did all documentation beforehand in Delhi, and it took merely ~10 mins to get the permits:).

  37. Hi Deeraj,
    what a superb post! I need some assistance from you, regarding my trip to North India.
    I and 2 my friends are heading to Leh via Srinagar. Guess, by ur recommendation, its a good start to travel. My concern, is i am a foreigner, while my 2 friends are Indians nationality. Will i have a problem travelling with my friends in Leh(Ladakh)? Will i get the ILP easily, even though my 2 friends are locals while i am a foreigner, kindly advise.
    2ndly, we intend to rent a 4×4 vehicle from Srinagar, and self drive to Leh. My question is will the car rental company allow to leave the car in Leh or do we have to return to Srinagar to return the car, as we intend to fly from Leh to Delhi, kindly advise.
    Is 12 days enough for us to self drive from Srinagar to Leh? If possible can draw up an itinerary for us. Much thanks!

    • Hello Ash,

      1. You will not have any trouble exploring the tourist destination of Ladakh following traditional routes. You will be able to get the permits done, just ask some local travel agent to get it done for you. I am sure, it would be very much trivial.
      2. Nopes, you cannot get an self-drive car from Srinagar at least and some well known rental firm have stopped giving cars on rent for Ladakh, at least as per what I read few weeks back. You have to hire a local taxi and may be ask the driver to let you drive. Also, you will need to hire one taxi from Srinagar that will take you to Leh and then again hire another local taxi in Leh for rest of the days in Ladakh.

      For 12 days, you might like to follow an itinerary like below:

      Day 1 | Reach Srinagar
      — Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
      — If you have time then check out, floating market, Shalimar Garden.
      — Overnight at Srinagar

      Day 2 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
      — Enjoy the vistas enroute
      — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
      — Overnight at Kargil

      Day 3 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
      — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
      — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 4 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
      –For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 5 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 6 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 7 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
      — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
      — Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)

      Day 8 | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
      — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 9 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping OR Monastery tour OR you can do tour to Sham Valley
      — Monastery tour may include Hemis, Thicksey, Stakna and Shey monasteries. They come on the route of Pangong Tso but as you will be doing day trip, it will be a bit hectic to include them on that day only.
      — Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu, , Gurudwara Pather Sahib
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 10 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
      — Cover Karzok Monastery
      — Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri

      Day 11 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Moore Plains – Pang / Sarchu
      — Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
      — Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

      Day 12 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping OR Monastery tour OR you can do tour to Sham Valley
      — Monastery tour may include Hemis, Thicksey, Stakna and Shey monasteries. They come on the route of Pangong Tso but as you will be doing day trip, it will be a bit hectic to include them on that day only.
      — Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu, , Gurudwara Pather Sahib
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 13 | Fly back

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Hi Dheeraj,
        thanks for taking the time to reply to me, and guide me through my coming adventures in North India.
        have another query for you, i did browse some articles saying if ur group is less than 4 people, you have to travel with a tour operator. Is that true? Can we just go and visit tourist places in Leh by ourselves, 3 of us, w/o tour operator? If we visit the ILP tour places, with only 3 of us, are they gonna send us back, just because minimum in a group is 4, and max is 20? very confused…kindly advise bro…super thanks!

        • Hello Ash,

          The condition for tour operator is just to get the permits for foreigners and won’t be applicable for your other two friends. The local tour operator would charge some money from you and place your name in already existing group with him for those dates and get you the copy of that permit which you can keep with you. Once, you get the permits, you can travel on your wish. Your other two friends can apply for separate permit issued for Indians or ask that local agent to place their names as well in that group if possible (m not sure on this one). So, it wont be a big issue once you are in Leh.

          I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • this is very nice Dheeraj.Thanks for such an early reply.
          Also if you dont mind can i have your number.In case I need some indo i would definetly like to call you.

          Sorry for asking if you can’t share.In any case thanks again.

        • Hi Dheeraj,
          thank you for all your patience in answering my questions. I have a clearer picture now of what to expect and my course of actions. I have a couple of queries for you, hope you can clear my doubts.
          1) We intend to pitch our tents at Panggong Tso. Will it be allowed? if not, can you recommend me the nearest town to spend the night, as we do not plan to waste time to return to Leh.
          2) we intend to move on from Panggong Tso to Tso Morriri by traditional route, since im a foreigner, not allowed to go thru Man-Merak route, so whic parts of area we can camp by the river banks? if not the nearest town to spend the night?
          3) if we camp by the lake banks, will it be safe at night, in terms of wild dogs, bandits etc
          Hope i can widen my picture more of Leh, with ur guidance and advice. Thank you Dheeraj.

        • Hello Ash,

          1. Yes, you can pitch the tents near the lake at Pangong Tso. Just ask gently for the permission by near by camping site. Otherwise, you can always go to Lukung or Spangmik on the other end.

          2. Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri, can be managed by long drive of about 12 Hrs starting early morning from Pangong Tso. If you are able to reach Tso Moriri, you can stay at Korzok Village. You are not allowed to pitch tents near Tso Moriri, being part of wetland reserve project. Otherwise, Chumathang would be ideal to spend the night along side Indus river near Hot Springs.

          3. Since, other camping sites would be around it shall be safe enough anywhere at Korzok, Lukung and Spangmik. At Chumathang, it will be nice to stay near Hot Springs where there is a dhabha/local food shop run by a locale.

          I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • Hi Dheeraj,
          Excellent bro, thanks once again for your patience and guidance, for my trip to the North. Will holla you, if i need more tips. if you don’t mind, can pm me your contact number & prolly email add as well, thru my email address given, just in case….once again, thank you very much bro!

      • Hi Dheeraj,

        This post of yours is really a gud one.I am also planning for a trip from delhi via srinagar leh manali delhi.
        I am planning for a 10 days trip.Please suggest if the above post for ASH holds good for me as well.
        10 days includes the travelling time also.

        Waiting for your response.

        Thanks & Regards
        Abhishek

        • Hello Abhishek,

          They are flying out of Leh and you guys wanna do road trip to Manali. So, you might have to follow the below plan:

          Day 1 | Delhi – Jammu / Patnitop
          — Overnight at Jammu or Patnitop

          Day 2 | Jammu / Patnitop – Srinagar
          — Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
          — If you have time then check out, floating market, Shalimar Garden.
          — Overnight at Srinagar

          Day 3 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
          — Enjoy the vistas enroute
          — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
          — Overnight at Kargil

          Day 4 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
          — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
          — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 5 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
          — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
          — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 6 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Leh
          – Head for Nubra Valley very early in the day and come back by late evening after visiting Deskit. If you have time go little further and see Hunder sand dunes too
          – On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
          – Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

          Day 7 | Leh – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
          – Day trip to Pangong Tso
          – Overnight at Leh

          Day 8 | Leh – Taglang La – Pang – Sarchu
          — Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
          — Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

          Day 9 | Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
          — On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
          — Overnight at Manali

          Day 10 | Manali – Delhi
          — Reach home

          I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

      • Chris Grose on

        Hi Dheeraj
        What a great website and loads of info.

        I plan to cycle Manali-Leh via Tso Kar/Tso Moriri and Mahe Bridge next July. YOur website suggests that this is not possible as innerline permits for Tso Moriri are only available in Leh. Is this correct?

        The solution would be to undertake the trip from Leh to Manali instead. Presumeably there will be no problems getting permits in Leh forn this?

        Thanks and keep up the great website.
        REgards
        Chris

        • Hello Chris,

          Thanks alot. Glad you liked the info. present on the blog and found it useful.

          Yes, you are correct that you cannot ride to Tso Moriri via Tso Kar from Manali – Leh highway because you will need permit for the same. Even if you get the permits before hand through fax or email it is not advisable enough to ride to Tso Moriri and sleep there being so high in altitude and extreme chances of hitting with Acute Mountain Sickness. So, visit Leh first, relax for few days over there within Ladakh then finally ride it towards Tso Moriri via Chumathang and Mahe Bridge and may be exit via Tso Kar towards Manali – Leh Highway back.

          I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you need any further details or have any queries.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

    • Karan Singh on

      hey dhiraj…
      i must say your blog is the most informative and the updated one.
      nways now for my query. i am travelling from delhi to leh by road from 23rd to 31st july. i am travelling by my own private car and there are 5 of us. we are taking manali- leh route. i had made a itinerary for our trip but ILP has spoiled all of it.. i will reach leh on 25th evening and have to reach back to delhi on 1st august. i plan to visit NUbra velley, pangong LAke. tso morari lake, Grd> pathar Sahib. i dont know if its possible with the limited days i have, so was hoping if you could make an itinerary for me too. i have some other queries which i am numbering and go as follows;
      !) we plan to camp on both of the nights at the lake area. do one need extra permission for it?

      2) which route should i take from Pangong LAke to Tso morari LAke?

      3) As we are bringing our own car, and its not chauffer driven should i hire a driver from manali for leh route.as i have heard the road is quite bad uphill. we will be bringing Qualis.

      4) its also come to my notice that locals dont allow you to drive your car there, instead they ask you to hire a cab. how true is that?

      5)i did my research but could not find a local agent. since you know the place so well. i was hoping if you could give us a no and name of any agent who could help us to get local permit there. (i have downloaded the form from your link . so i can fax or mail to him )

      6) if i mentioned in my form that i plan to visit the above said areas. will that be sufficient or do i need to write each name seperately like the town i will be crossing through to visit that area.

      thankyou very much in appreciation. looking forward to hear from you.

      • Hello Karan,

        You have only 9 days and out which at least 6 days would be required to travel from Delhi – Leh – Delhi via Manali. In three days left with you, you cannot cover both lakes, nubra valley and sham valley including the permits. You are going by your own car and not sure, if it would be possible for you to get the permits from Manali as well to travel on Manali – Rohtang Pass road on the same day 🙁 … Still, I have mentioned below a 9 day tour, which you might like.

        1. No you do not need any permissions for it. You can camp at Pangong Tso. Camping at Tso moriri is restricted and you cannot campt at that lake. However, you can camp near where others have placed there camps. just as for gently permission from them.

        2. As per itinerary, you cannot visit both lakes.

        3. It is fine I guess.

        4. It is false. You can drive your own car but not the taxi number place one. As long as it is white number plate, you can drive it.

        5. Check with Hotel Shaynam or Shanti Guest House. Contact mentioned in the accommodation series linked here

        6. Nopes, just mention the place you want to visit, in this case. Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso.

        Here is the itinerary:

        Day 1 | Delhi – Manali/Solang Valley
        — Better stay at Solang Valley and avoid Manali as sleeping at Solang Valley does help in acclimatization
        — If going by own car, get the permit made in advance to drive on Manali – Rohtang Pass road through hotel/travel agent in Manali
        — Overnight at Manali/Solang Valley

        Day 2 | Manali/Solang Valley – Keylong/Jispa
        — It is always better to stay either at Keylong/Jispa so that you do not feel sick or hit by AMS.
        — Avoid sleeping at Sarchu at any cost while going to Leh from Manali because your body will not be acclimatized by the time you reach there.
        — I prefer staying at Jispa more because Keylong gives the feeling of a town while Jispa is more closer to nature having Bhaga river running just aside the Manali – Leh Highway at Jispa.
        — Overnight at Keylong/Jispa

        Day 3 | Keylong/Jispa – Leh
        — Leave Keylong/Jispa early next morning, say by 4/5 AM types, so that you reach Leh in the evening.
        — Overnight at Leh

        Day 4 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
        — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
        — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
        — Overnight at Leh
        — You can visit Magnetic Hills and Gurudwara Pather Sahib on this day

        Day 5 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Leh
        — Head for Nubra Valley very early in the day and come back by late evening after visiting Deskit. If you have time go little further and see Hunder sand dunes too
        — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
        — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

        Day 6 | Leh – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
        — Day trip to Pangong Tso
        — Overnight at Leh

        Day 7 | Leh – Taglang La – Pang – Sarchu
        — Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
        — Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

        Day 8 | Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
        — On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
        — Overnight at Manali

        Day 9 | Manali – Delhi

        I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

        Regards
        Dheeraj Sharma

  38. sir my plan is to take taxi from manali to leh with a night halt in sarchu….since we are only 2 people pls advice how to get leh regn taxi from manali as they will be cheaper than manali taxis. do u have any such drivers number then kindly share…

    • Hello Jiggaw,

      For getting a Leh based taxi to Manali, please read the link here: Cheap private taxi to Leh – Ladakh | A Myth or A Reality?

      Secondly, Avoid sleeping at Sarchu or Pang at any cost while going to Leh from Manali because your body will not be acclimatized by the time you reach there. It is always better to stay either at Keylong/Jispa so that you minimize the chances for falling sick or hit by AMS while going to Leh from Manali. And, then next day carry on the rest of the journey to Leh without sleeping in between anywhere by leaving early in the morning say, by 4-5 AM types. I prefer staying at Jispa more because Keylong gives the feeling of a town while Jispa is more closer to nature having Bhaga river running just aside the Manali – Leh Highway at Jispa. If you are coming back via Manali – Leh, then it should be OK to stay at Sarchu as your body will be acclimatized by that time.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  39. Shakti Saini on

    Dear Dheeraj,

    i want to know which palaces name we have to mention in ILP, if we plane to go given below place.

    Khardungla Pass>Nubra Valley>Diskit>Hundar>Turtok>Rongdo>Darbuk>Tangste>Pangong Tso>chushul>Tso Moriri>hanle>Changthang>Sarchu.

    plz explain, Thanks in advance

    • hello Shakti,

      You need to mention Nubra Valley, Turtuk, Pangong Tso, Man, Merak, Chusul, Tsaga, Loma, Nyoma, Hanle, Tso Moriri for the above mentioned route. Just for your info. the permits to Man – Merak – Chusul or remote Changthang routes including Marsimik La and Wari La are still not being given by DC office in Leh, so keep your fingers crossed and hope for the best if they start issuing the permits by the time you visit. Otherwise, you have to take the traditional routes only.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  40. Swapnil K on

    Sir,

    Do we need inner line permit for Zanskar valley from leh via Kargil….?

      • Hi Dheeraj, we are five friends planning a tour chandigarh-manali- leh ladakh- pangong lake, tiso morri lake, nubhra velley- kargil- srinagar- jammu- chandigarh. from 3rd august. we are hiring a taxi from chandigarh for 14 days.. can you make a iterney for 14days.. we have 6 days in leh .. do we have to our taxi park there for 6-7 days and we have to hire a local taxi for these days.. please tell me which places we have to mention in inner area permits for pangong, tisso morri and nubhra velly ???

        • Hi Rahul,

          Firstly, I will suggest you that please plan it in other direction as going via Srinagar – Leh Highway will be much much easier on your body and help you acclimatize to the high altitude of Manali – Leh Highway. Also, it allows you to enjoy the beauty of Manali – Leh by splitting the journey almost evenly in two days which is very difficult in the other direction. Thirdly, it will allow you to fit Tso Moriri lake into the itinerary in better way. You can read more reasons on the link here

          You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travelers including me at the link here: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh. You need to mention Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri only.

          For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

          For the current leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2012-13 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

          Check the list of things to carry for Leh – Ladakh or other trip including basic medical kit, clothing, must haves etc. at the link here: List of Things to Carry for Leh – Ladakh trip.

          I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  41. Hi Dheeraj, its Ankit again. I hope you are doing pretty good there. Would like to disturb you again with few queries. Our forecasted itinerary is like:

    4th Aug:reaching to Leh from Kargil via Alchi and Lamayuru. I dont think that same day will get the ILP done.

    5th Aug:planning for Nubra valley or Kardunga La which requires ILP.

    6th Aug: Early morning departure from Leh for Delhi.

    I would like to know your expert advice on two points:

    01.) can we get the ILP done well in advance as same day trip will not allow us to do these formalities.

    02.) How about hiring bikes for sightseeing at Nubra or Kardung la. If it is an good option then may I request you to please provide few phone nos for the same.

    • Hi Ankit,

      1. You can get the permits in advance by contacting any local travel agent in Leh or your hotel. They will ask you to fax or email your photo IDs and the required fees they would be charging (Charge about Rs 200 to Rs 250 per person). Once done, they email/fax back your permit which you can make further copies and keep it with you.

      2. It is just a day in Ladakh, so better take taxi and enjoy the place as you have to catch a flight next day and any mechanical failure in bike may result in missing the flight. You can always leave the taxi behind and get the new one to reach back to Leh.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Hi Dheeraj, Thanks once again for guiding us through. We have added one more day in Leh and now will leave Leh on 7th Aug. Hence we have two fulldays at Leh to enjoy. May I request you to please provide few agent nos. who can help us in getting ILP arranged at nominal prices?

        • Hi Ankit,

          You can get in touch with any of these hotels below:

          1. 01982252345, 09419178484 – Hotel Shaynam
          2. +91-1982-253403, +91-9622958260 – Asia Guest House
          3. +91-1982-253084, +91-1982-250023, +91-9419178760, +91-9419888833, +91-9906982118 – Shanti Guest House.

          I am sure, they will be able to help you out.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  42. post needs to be updated as there's revised fee structure now. also there's rebate for students having students I card copy personally to be told/handed over to fee clerk. our member paid rs 20/- only against rs 200/- if i am not wrong. thanks

    (pl ignore if found not suitable to post )

    • Thanks alot A Jeet, updated the post above. It was indeed very useful. I have the new form and application letter format as well but somehow my laziness is not allowing me to get those scanned and uploaded here 😥 … Will do the needful over weekend.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  43. Hi Dheeraj, You are really an awesum guy!! Helping all the travellers and with the right info/ approach. Many thanks for such a work. God bless you.

    I am also planning a trip in last week of July. Travelling by public transport from Delhi to Leh and will take a flight back from Leh to Delhi.

    Need ur feedback on our plan. Some of the questions I have are within that.

    -Friday 20 July 2012

    Delhi to Jammu Eve. Train to Jammu

    -Saturday 21 July 2012

    Jammu to Srinagar reach by 12 noon. ..Have lunch .. Start for Srinagar.. Reach Srinagar by nite – Nite Stay in Srinagar

    -Sunday 22 July 2012

    Srinagar to Leh – Shared Taxi to Leh

    -Monday 23 July 2012

    Leh Permits / Local Sight seeing (Which places to go?)

    (Where can we get motobikes? Rates?)

    (Or Taxi/ Theur rates?)

    (We are 2 of us and plan to take a bike? Thou we have not done long distance before however we r comfortable)- what do u suggest taking bike or Taxi?

    (Shall we go to Nubra Valley first or to the Pangong Lake first?)

    -Tuesday 24 July 2012

    Leh – Khardung La – Nubra Valley – Leh

    (Is it poosible to do it in 1 day?) If not places to stay in Nubra Valley?)

    -Wednesday 25 July 2012

    Leh – Karu – Shakti – Chang La – Durbuk – Tangste – Pangong Tso

    (Is it poosible to do it in 1 day? What is advisable?) If not in 1 day, then places to stay in Pangong?)

    -Thursday 26 July 2012

    Leh & Around Back from Pangong and Rest in Leh- Nite stay in Hotel

    -Friday 27 July 2012 – Buffer Day

    -Saturday 28 July 2012

    White water rafting in Indus River

    -Sunday 29 July 2012

    Leh to Delhi by Morning Flight

    Pls help/ Kindly Suggest.

    ===========

    • Hello Hardeep,

      You have 6 days with you once you reach Leh. So, you can do it like below in those 6 days:

      Day 1 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
      — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link : https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/inner-line-per
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 2 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 3 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 4 | Leh – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
      – Day trip to Pangong Tso
      – Overnight at Leh

      Day 5 | Rafting Day

      Day 6 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping OR Monastery tour OR you can do tour to Sham Valley
      — Monastery tour may include Hemis, Thicksey, Stakna and Shey monasteries. They come on the route of Pangong Tso but as you will be doing day trip, it will be a bit hectic to include them on that day only.
      — Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu, , Gurudwara Pather Sahib
      — Overnight at Leh

      Now, you can also do two day trip to Pangong Tso on Day 4 and Day 5 and do rafting on the last day.

      Also, you can rent bikes in Leh and Fort Road in Leh is full of such shops that rent bikes. Depending upon the condition, model, make and tourist rush you can get bikes starting from Rs 600 to Rs 1200.

      But, I will suggest you shared taxis. Read below.

      Private taxis are very costly in Leh but you will be able to find the shared taxi without much fuss at all. There are lots of flyers which people put at cafes, dine-ins, restaurants, travel agent desks/shops/whiteboards wanting to share the taxis for different trips within Ladakh. Even travel agent organize such shared taxis trip as well but charge a little higher about Rs 200-300 more than it would ideally cost. So, in worst case you can always go back to them and book a seat for yourself. Gelling up with people in Ladakh is more or less easy because many people travel solo and look forward to meet new people and share cultural thoughts and values over the trip. No where else in the world you will find more smiling and helpful people as Ladakhis are 🙂

      I hope this helps. Please let me know in case you need more info or have any doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  44. hi.. we are two guys and our plan is:

    Day 1 arrive at manali from delhi

    Day2 : leave manali for Leh in Haimachal tourism bus/may try for cabs als0o

    Day 3: arrive at Leh by eve

    Day 4: local sightseeing /innerline permit

    Day 5: Nubra valley with turtuk

    Day 6th Back to leh by eve

    Day 7th Pyongyong lake and back

    Day 8th fly to delhi

    pls suggest what will be car hiring cost for nubra and pyongyong lake and what is decen place to stay in hunder/turtuk…

    Regards

    • Hello Jigsaw,

      Itinerary is fine buddy. For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

      For the current leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2012-13 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 12-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Dheeraji thanks for your reply, need to know that while returing from turtuk can we straight away go to pyongyong lake instead of going to leh…how much is the time taken? and how is the route? it will be mid aug

        • Hello Jiggaw,

          From deskit to Pangong Tso via Wari La would take about 10-11 Hrs and then Turtuk to Deskit is I think about 90 KMs, if I remember correctly. Add a bout 3 HRs more. So, it will be a long long day with least sightseeing inbetween. Route the will be almost isolated once you start for Wari La all the way upto Sakit village where it meets the traditional route of Pangong Tso from Leh via Chang La. So, on that isolated stretch help will be hard to find.

          There is another route via Shyok village that is shorter and take about 6-7 Hrs but that is more isolated and dangerous with many landslide prone areas and if water crossings will be in flow then hard to negotiate as well.

          Regards
          Dheeraj

  45. ANAND K, TAMILNADU on

    we 2 adults 1 child like to travel leh by 18th of april 2013,we like to stay for 6 to 7 nights it is possible to see places like pangong lake,nubra valley ,khardungla pass,alchi,& leh locals by own or through travel agency pls give suggestions & itenary for us

    • Hello Anand,

      In April the conditions and pretty cold and challenging. Roads to Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso also gets closed frequently due to snow fall. And above all Pangong Tso will be frozen. Do you still want to go in April?

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • ANAND K, TAMILNADU on

        yes sir is it possible to reach pangong lake and others or roads will be blocked

        • Hello Anand,

          They do keep them open throughout the year but if there is snowfall in recent days when your are traveling then the road will be closed. Chances of AMS problems by stucking in Jams at both Khardung La and Chang La are very high. In fact I visited in April last week only this year and luckily for use all the time snowfall was two days behind and by the time we reached the passes, they were made claer but we had torrid time at Khardung La. We saw many not able to make it to Pangong Tso and Nubra Valley due to road closure and all…

          I hope this helps. Please let me know in case you have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • ANAND K, TAMILNADU on

          sharma sir i heard that we cant get good food by april is it true

        • Hello Anand,

          Yes, food is limited in April as it is about when the roads had to open but it does not mean that you do not get the food. In Leh, you will be able to find very decent food especially at Lamayuru and Gesmo restaurants.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • ANAND K, TAMILNADU on

          sharmaji, is it possible to make trip by our own or we must do with travel agent for ladakh trip

        • All the information you will need to make a Ladakh trip, will be available in the Ladakh section of my blog. Since, you have lots of time you can go through the articles and plan it best way. If anything you could not find in the articles, just shoot an email to me or write comment and I would be more than happy to assist you in all the required planning. There is no need for any travel agent in between 😉 …

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  46. Robin Chaudhary on

    Hi Dheeraj, you are doing a nice work. Appreciations.

    I am planning to visit leh DURING LAST HALF OF JULY-2012.We have only 10 DAYS, starting our jourey from Delhi.

    Could you please suggest me the ltinerary for 10 days(Delhi-LEH-DELHI).

    We ll use our car which is HONDA JAZZ(HATCHBACK), Is it ok to use hatchback on this route.

    Weather around these days

    Where can we find the accomodations,petrol pump(AS I ve heard that duriang a patch of 500 kms ,no petrol pump)

    Thanks in adavance 🙂

    Regards

    Robin

    • Helo Robin,

      For hatchback/sedan taking on Manali – Leh Highway and Ladakh, I will say:

      The roads may be stabilized now but you will need to face few tough challenges on the route. The hatchback/sedan will increase the level of every challenge even further. My suggestion will be to go via Srinagar route which is opened for light vehicles earlier (most likely) and will be stabilized by then. It will help you feel comfortable with the driving, provide more acclimatization and then once you have done the local Leh Ladakh come back via Manali side. Secondly, since you are in hatch/sedan back then you need to drive with extra care as well. There will be some sections on the Manali – Leh highway in which you might need to sacrifice some scratches on the underbelly. Just make sure you do not bump the engine sump (know it before where it is placed in your car). You need to protect it all around the trip. Thirdly, whenever in doubt do not rush into the section rather park aside and feel the section with your foot, see how other vehicles are crossing it and make a planned route in your mind to cross that section. At the very least do carry Mseal, quick fix, funnel, jerry cans and towing rope with you all the time.

      Also, I will strongly suggest that you go through and read my series on Ladakh Self Drive tips at the links below:

      7 Useful Tips for a Self Drive to Leh – Ladakh, Routes and Road Conditions In Leh – Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips, Fuel Availability In Leh – Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips

      Now regarding the 10 day plan, you can do it like:

      Day 1 | Delhi – Jammu / Patnitop
      — Overnight at Jammu or Patnitop

      Day 2 | Jammu / Patnitop – Srinagar
      — Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
      — If you have time then check out, floating market, Shalimar Garden.
      — Overnight at Srinagar

      Day 3 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
      — Enjoy the vistas enroute
      — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
      — Overnight at Kargil

      Day 4 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
      — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
      — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 5 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
      — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 6 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Leh
      – Head for Nubra Valley very early in the day and come back by late evening after visiting Deskit. If you have time go little further and see Hunder sand dunes too
      – On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      – Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 7 | Leh – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
      – Day trip to Pangong Tso
      – Overnight at Leh

      Day 8 | Leh – Taglang La – Pang – Sarchu
      — Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
      — Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

      Day 9 | Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
      — On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
      — Overnight at Manali

      Day 10 | Manali – Delhi

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  47. kirti kumar tiwari on

    hello mr sharma, can we use our own scorpio for nubra velly,pangang tso,tso moriri & tso kar.scopio is new and pvt. passing.

  48. Akshat Sharma on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    You are quite an expert in leh 🙂

    I have visited once and have an idea about where to visit.

    Clueless on two issues-

    1. Requirement of room heaters during July?

    2. How to get hold of a taxi with whom I can coordinate in advance for pick up, sightseeing(6 days) and drop to the airport?

    Will be highly obliged,

    Akshat Sharma

    • Hello Akshat,

      Thanks buddy.

      1. There won't be any requirements for that as I was in quite cold conditions in April and we didn't feel the need of it.
      2. For the current leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2012-13 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 12-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  49. Dear Dheeraj,

    we are traveling to leh in July from Chandigarh via local cab he. We have heard that only local leh taxis are allowed for local sigh seeing and other taxis are allowed only for drop. the same has been confirmed by two tour operators in manali. can you please let us know whether that is true.

    • Hi Manmohan,

      Yes, true. Taxis outside Ladakh are not allowed to do any sighseeing within Leh – Ladakh. You can use them from drop-in and take-away modes only. So, the taxi you are hiring locally must have private number plate otherwise you will have to again hire a taxi within Ladakh and pay for your local taxi without using it.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  50. dear, dheeraj please tell me how many palaces in leh which required inner line permit. what is its name and how to fill in the form is there ant short foam. and how many person can be mentioned in one permit.

    • Hi Rajeev,

      There is no limit AFAIK for the number of persons to be listed. There are lots of places where permits are required but for conventional routes you just need to mention Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri on the permit if you plan to visit these places. There is sample attached filled form in this article, please download and fill it accordingly. I hope you have gone through the article above.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • RAJESH SHARMA on

        Hello Dheeraj,

        Is Adhar Card would be accepted as a proof for identity for making inner line permit?

        • Hi Rajesh,

          If it is a valid national photo id proof then it will be accepted otherwise not.

          I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

    • Sachin Nair on

      Hi Dheeraj – Good Morning.. I have read your above article and I am sure queries which we ask is already covered in the topic. Good show indeed!! and keep up the good work…As you have suggested on a query that “There are lots of places where permits are required but for conventional routes you just need to mention Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri on the permit if you plan to visit these places”, my question is what if I mention some more places on the form like “Nubra Valley, Turtuk , Khardung La, Pangang Tso Lake, Tso Moirri Lake,( Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma (for Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri) and Hanle), Dah -Hanu Villages, Hanle, Chusul War Memorial i.e. Changthang” ? Will the form still be accepted?. we will try to travel these places by bikes. IS it feasible?…plan date : will reach leh on 4th june and travel plan from 5th june to 15th june.

      Please advice if any change required.

      • Hi Sachin,

        Very Good Morning buddy!!

        Yes, the conventional routes are only for Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri. For any other place, you need to mention that in the permit. For Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri as mentioned above write only "Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma", of course including the two lakes. Then, for Hanle and Dha – Hanu villages, again you need to write their names. No need for Chusul War Memorial as it is covered with Chusul.

        Yes, this is very much feasible but just make sure your are OK riding long distances without any roads 🙂 … Also, ensure you are carrying enough spare fuel to cover Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri distance including to-fro from Leh.

        I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

        Regards
        Dheeraj Sharma

        • Sachin Nair on

          Thanks much for the update Dheeraj. It means a lot..:)..This would be our first trip to north india however we all are very enthu to have such long, tough and adventurous trip. Looking forward to it.We dont have any specific plan as such as which places mentioned above to travel first. Basically, we only know that we will start our journey from leh and need to be back on leh..:)…and then we will drive back to manali..If you can help us on the navigation from leh to these places as in when and where we should exactly travel from leh to cover the baove places, it would be really helpful and much appreciated!!..:)…any idea how many days, we require to cover these places. 1 more thing, any idea on fuel stations that we can get in between these places?

          Thanks!! in advance..:)

          Have a great day..

  51. Hi Dheeraj, the information you provide is incredible and you reply with all the patience- which is highly appreciated. Okay my request is that we 4 women want to visit Ladakh starting 10th June onwards. We are taking a train from Mumbai to Jammu tawi and want to return via manali.

    1.Can you work out an itenary for us starting 9th June till we reach delhi to depart on 23rd June. Please can you also work out a rough estimate of the budget.

    2. We want no fancy hotels and okay with budget of Rs 500 per head (means room tariff of 1000 on twin sharing).

    3.Places we would like to visit are: a couple of monasteries, Nubra via Khardungla, pangong lake, Tso moriri, (any any more you suggest).

    4. I also read that there is an international film festive. Will that affect hotel availability.

    5. Do hotel rooms require room heaters during this period.

    6. We would like one- day halt in HP and reach Delhi on 23rd morning.

    Please can you assist as always.

    Sangeeta

    • Hi Sangeeta,

      Thanks alot, but replying to all does delay sometimes for some 🙂 … Coming to your queries,

      1. As I see you have about 14 days ex Delhi? In such a case, I will advice the plan mentioned below. For all bout estimating the budget, I will suggets you read: How to calculate cost or budget for Leh – Ladakh trip

      2. For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

      3. Check the plan below 🙂

      4. A little bit but mostly high tariff ones will be affected.

      5. Some can provide and some can't. You may no need it in June.

      6. Guess too much in little number of days 😉 …

      Your Ladakh plan for 14 days ex. Delhi below:

      Day 1 | Delhi – Jammu / Patnitop
      — Overnight at Jammu or Patnitop

      Day 2 | Jammu / Patnitop – Srinagar
      — Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
      — If you have time then check out, floating market, Shalimar Garden.
      — Overnight at Srinagar

      Day 3 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
      — Enjoy the vistas enroute
      — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
      — Overnight at Kargil

      Day 4 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
      — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
      — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Zanskar
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 5 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
      — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link : https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/inner-line-per
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 6 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 7 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 8 | Leh – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
      — Day trip to Pangong Tso
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 9 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
      — Cover Karzok Monastery
      DO NOT FORGET to Carry spare fuel for about 550 KMs including your tankful
      — Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri

      Day 10 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Moore Plains – Sarchu
      — Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
      — Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

      Day 11 | Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
      — On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
      — Overnight at Manali

      Day 12 | Manali – Delhi
      — Return home

      Day 13 + 14 | Buffer days to be kept incase of road closure due to landslides or snowfall or perhaps you want to enjoy more. Use them in Himachal or anywhere you like

      Additional Points:
      1. Instead of coming back to Leh from Nubra Valley, you can head towards Pangong Tso via Wari La route. If you are riding then you need to carry sufficient fuel for it. The additional day could be rest day at Leh where you can do Sham Valley tour or some shopping in Leh. Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Zanskar, Gurudwara Pather Sahib

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Pankaj Choudhary on

        Hi Dheeraj, M planing form Delhi to Srinagar to Leh Ladakh Coming Month 9 of june 2012, But I am confused, we Are 6 Person, coming for own personal SUV, So please tell that, m able to cross srinagar to leh from or personal SUV, After can we pass through srinagar to Manali or we need to take any permission for, i came to know about that we can do srinagar to manali by our SUV, Some one tell me that U need permission for leh to manali, so plz tell me it is possible to go srinagar to leh and leh to manali, Plz help me out……….???

        • Hi Pankaj,

          You do not need any permission if you travel in the direction Delhi -> Srinagar -> Leh -> Manali -> Delhi. Vehicles outside Himachal are required to get permits to travel from Manali side to Rohtang Pass but those vehicles if coming from Rohtang Pass side or Leh side, do not need any kind of permit.

          But, yes of course in Ladakh to visit places like Khardung La, Tso Moriri, Pangong Tso, Nubra Valley etc. you need permit for yourself as person not for your vehicle. For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here

          I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • Pankaj choudhary on

          Thanks Dheeraj Sir, for the Suggestion, As According to ur words, m finally follow the same route as u said, is it possible the trip in 10 days, For 10 days trip plz suggest route guide line with maximun distance i have to cover in a day…….Plz…?

        • Hi Pankaj,

          For 10 days, I will suggest something like below:

          Day 1 | Delhi – Srinagar
          — Fly to Srinagar if you are not self driving because it will almost cost the same and help you save one day plus fatigue of traveling unnecessary in plains or boring hills for 2 days
          — Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
          — If you have time then check out, floating market, Shalimar Garden.
          — Overnight at Srinagar

          Day 2 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
          — Enjoy the vistas enroute
          — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
          — Overnight at Kargil

          Day 3 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
          — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
          — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 4 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
          — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
          — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 5 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
          — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
          — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
          — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

          Day 6 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
          — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 7 | Leh – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
          — Day trip to Pangong Tso
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 8 | Leh – Taglang La – Pang – Sarchu
          — Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
          — Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

          Day 9 | Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
          — On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
          — Overnight at Manali

          Day 10 | Manali – Delhi

          Note: No buffer days for Ladakh trip mostly many a times means trouble, so do plan a day or two as buffer apart from these 10 days.

          I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • Pankaj Choudhary on

          thanks again Dheeraj Sir for instant Rply.

          Hello Dheeraj Ji, How U, One more Query for u, is their any way to Leh Ladakh via Manali by OUR PERSONAL CAR (Not a taxi or tourist Reg. No), if it is so please tell How..?

          i Came to know about that taking permission by Manali SDM office or Manali DC. u can go throw by this route, if u you know about this anything plz give direction…?

  52. Jafar Khan on

    What kind of document proof is required for a student to get the inner line permit ?

        • Jafar Khan on

          I have one more.

          In the article its mentioned that we need to give a copy of the permit at check-posts. The question I have in mind is , might be a silly one, do we have give a copy of the whole bundle, I mean permit letter along with ID proofs or just the approved permit application form will do?

        • Hi Jafar,

          You will only be handed back the permit not the documents by DC office. For that permit, you need to make copies which will be handed over to each post that comes on the way to sightseeing places. It will be filled form with signatures/stamp on it by DC office. That is the permit.

          Regards
          Dheeraj

  53. Sharmeen Khan on

    Hi Dheeraj, You have mentioned here that the ILP costs about 20 rupees. But I contacted Camps of Ladakh for this and they are asking for 150 rupees per place per person. Isnt that too much? Do you think it is advisable to get ILP from them only so that we save time on reaching Leh?

    • Hi Sharmeen,

      Permits are not based on the number of places you write. It is Rs 20 per day per person for any number of places. Also, you need to pay Rs 10 per person as on time fee. So, for 5 days, inner line permit for one person will cost Rs 110 only. Rs 150 is too much. Do it yourself or ask your taxi driver to get it done for you. Either he will not take any money from you or will charge very minimum.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  54. vikas singh on

    hi dheeraj thanks for ur usefull tips for leh tourist.

    sir we are 4 person want to go leh with scorpio self driving we start from delhi next is shimla nako lekh spiti rohtang pass keylong then we go to leh is this a right route pls tell me we are goning to 1st september 2012

    • Hi Vikas,

      This route is possible but you will nnot be reaching Rohtang Pass in this case. You will directly join on the Norther Portal of Rohtang Pass at Gramphu via Kunzum Pass. The route with night halts will be like:

      — Shimla – Kalpa
      — Kalpa – Tabo
      — Tabo – Kaza – Kunzum Pass – Keylong
      — Keylong – Sarchu OR Keylong – Leh (you need to leave by 4 AM to reach Leh in time)

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  55. paresh patel on

    we are a group of 18 persons planning to start from srinagar by self driven cars viz pajero,fortuner and santafe on 28 of june please advice me for legal formalities and places of interest we are planning to stay for four days in leh and then proceed to manali via rohtang please advise

    • Hi Paresh,

      I am jealous for this bon voyage 😉 … No legal formalities are required except you the inner line permits you read above in Ladakh and since you start from Srinagar side, you do not need the permit for Manali – Rohtang Pass road as well 🙂 … You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travelers including me at the link here: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  56. Shreyans Dadde on

    Dear sir,

    First of all thank you for such a wonderful article. It's seriously very helpful, and it's probably the only article on the Internet that is so clear and to the point.

    I am from Mumbai and I am along with my friends planing a road trip along the manali LEH highway.

    I have a few queries they are listed below.

    – I am from mumbai and my friends are from Kolhapur ( 450 km south of Mumbai) we are all students except one who is getting married next month. We are just 7 guys, and we are planing to drive in a safari Dicor. Considering this fact will we be able to the required permission without any problems.

    Because we are just guys, plus we are from different cities and we are planing to go to sensitive areas.

    Our rough itinerary is as follows please check it out and put your required inputs.

    Day 1, 4 june, Monday.

    Mumbai to udaipur.

    850 km, time required 20 hrs.

    We leave Mumbai at sharp 5

    we have a speed limit to follow and hence I am considering 20 hrs.

    Day 2, 5 June, Tuesday.

    Udaipur to Amritsar.

    900 km, time required 21 hrs.

    We check in at a hotel in Amritsar.

    Day 3, 6 June, Wednesday.

    In Amritsar.

    Visit golden temple, jallianwalla baug in the morning and rest for afternoon.

    In the evening go to wagha border. Rest for the night in Amritsar.

    Day 4, 7 June, Thursday.

    Amritsar to DALHOUSIE.

    189 km, time required 6 hrs

    We leave again at 5 in the morning from Amritsar. Reach DALHOUSIE before 12 noon check into a hotel have lunch and then go to see khajihaar.    Then we rest in our rooms.

    Day 5, 8 June, Friday.

    DALHOUSIE to dharmsala.

    120 km time required 3 hrs.

    Meet dalai lama and stay over night.

    Day 6, 9 June, Saturday.

    Dharmsala to kullu to manali.

    180+55 kms

    We leave again early in the morning by five reach kullu before 9 have breakfast, do river rafting. And leave kullu by 12 noon.

    Reach manali by 1:30 have lunch and check in our hotel. Overnight in manali.

    Day 7, 10 June, Sunday.

    Stay in manali to get acclimatise to the conditions and prevent from ams. We shall also use this time to get latest information about the highway and if we need to hire a driver.

    Day 8, 11 June, Monday.

    Manali to darcha.

    146 kms time required 4-10 hrs depends upon the conditions at that time.

    Here we camp,

    Day 9, 12 June, Tuesday.

    Darcha to sarchu.

    92 km. time required is 4- 8 hrs.

    Day 10, 13 June, Wednesday.

    Sarchu to LEH

    260 km time required is 10 hrs.

    We reach LEH and see the monasteries in and around the town.

    Day 11, 14 June, Thursday.

    LEH-pangong-LEH

    Day 12, 15June, Friday.

    LEH to tso morri lake.

    130 km.

    We camp near the lake.

    Day 13, 16 June, Saturday.

    Tso morri to LEH.

    We spend the night again at LEH.

    Day 14, 17 June, Sunday.

    LEH to nubra valley.

    150 km.

    Day15, 18 June, Monday.

    Nubra to LEH.

    Stay for the night at LEH.

    Day 16, 19 June, Tuesday.

    LEH to KARGIL.  

    225 km 10 hrs.

    Camp at KARGIL.

    Day 17, 20 June, Wednesday.

    KARGIL to Srinagar.

    200 km 10 hrs.

    On the way to Srinagar visit pehalgam, sonmarg and other tourist attractions.

    Check in our houseboat in Srinagar.

    Day 18, 21 June, Thursday.

    Stay in Srinagar.

    Visit the tourist attractions of Srinagar.

    Overnight in Srinagar.

    Day 19, 22 June, Friday.

    Srinagar to Jammu.

    290 km, time required 8hrs.

    Overnight in Jammu.

    Day 20, 23 June, Saturday.

    Jammu to new Delhi.

    620 km time required is 12 hrs.

    Stay overnight in Delhi.

    Day 21, 24 June , Sunday.

    Delhi to indore.

    816 kms, time required is 16 hrs.

    Overnight in indore.

    Day 22, 25 June, Monday.

    Indore to Mumbai.

    578 km, time required 12 hrs.

    End of journey.

    After reading your post I realised that we have to be in manali on weekdays but the problem is that, we cannot leave Mumbai before 4 as my friends have their exams till 2nd. And I have to reach Mumbai by 25 as I have college to attend.

    Can you please help me by telling me how do I apply for permits before hand.

    Secondly can you also ( if it's not too much to ask for) tell me how much cash we need to carry per person( we are 7).

    Also please tell me where can I find really cheap accommodation. We can stay any where.

    I know all this is very confusing, but please help as I am getting more confused every day.

    Thankyou.

    • Hi Shreyans,

      1. You will get the permits within Ladakh, so no issues at that front.
      2. You can get the Manali – Rohtang Pass permit in advance by getting in touch with some Travel Agent or hotel staff based in Manali. He will arrange the permits for you. however, check below itinerary you will not need one and also Dharmshala is much near to Jammu than Manali and hence you will save time on that front as well.
      3. For cheap accommodation in Manali, you can search over Vashisth/Old Manali/Manali – Naggar road which are full of moderate to cheap budget accommodation options. For cheap stay or accommodation options within Leh – Ladakh, check the comprehensive and preferred list of such hotels at the series of articles starting from the link here.
      4. I guess Rs 18-20K should be fine for the whole trip, considering you will stay at budget hotels and do not spend lavishly.

      Now finally, I will suggest you the following plan where I find changes needs to be done very much:

      Day 6 | Dharamshala – Jammu / Patnitop (Going via Srinagar side will help you alot with AMS as well as less number of days and making the whole itinerary more balanced)
      Day 7 | Jammu / Patnitop – Srinagar
      Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
      Overnight at Srinagar
      About 8-9 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between

      Day 8 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
      Enjoy the vistas enroute
      Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
      Overnight at Kargil
      About 8 Hrs drive, depend upon the traffic movement at Zozila and breaks you take in between

      Day 9 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
      Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
      On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Zanskar
      Overnight at Leh
      About 9-10 Hrs drive, , depending upon the breaks you take in between

      Day 10 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
      For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
      Overnight at Leh

      Day 11 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari
      About 5-6 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between and at Khardung La

      Day 12 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      Overnight at Leh
      About 7-9 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between

      Day 13 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
      Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
      Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)
      About 5-6 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between

      Day 14 | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
      Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
      Overnight at Leh
      About 5-6 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between

      Day 15 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping or you can do tour to Sham Valley
      Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Zanskar, , Gurudwara Pather Sahib
      Overnight at Leh

      Day 16 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
      Cover Karzok Monastery
      Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri
      About 7-8 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between

      Day 17 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Moore Plains – Pang / Sarchu
      Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
      Overnight at Sarchu or Pang
      About 11-12 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between

      Day 18 | Pang / Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
      On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
      Overnight at Manali
      About 11-12 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between and of course the mess at Rohtang Pass

      Day 19 | Manali – Delhi

      Return Home
      About 13-14 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Shreyans Dadde on

        Thank you very much sir.

        I discussed this itinerary with all my friends and we agreed upon the Srinagar LEH manali route. As of now we have roughly decided to head towards Srinagar directly from Amritsar and then follow the given itinerary. As far as DALHOUSIE and dharmsala is concerned we shall cover it during our next trip. Now just one more question, if I go to Srinagar and from there to LEH via KARGIL, are there any chances of the police or the army stoping us? Do we require to get a character certificate from our police stations as we are just guys? Or is there any other type of permission required? We were thinking of carrying a small kerosine stove, will it be allowed? Can we travell to Srinagar and from there till LEH without any permission and problem?

        • Hi Shreyans,

          Nice that you settled over Srinagar – Leh, good and safe decision 🙂 … and dropping Dalhousie and Dharamshala is another good one 😀 … Army or police might stop for routine checking only in case it is going on otherwise no definitive checks are present. No you do not need to get any such certificate (is such applicable or necessary somehwere in India?) I mostly travel/drive with guys only and has never been stopped 🙂 … Yes, stove will be allowed. Yes, no permissions are required on Srinagar – Leh Highway.

          I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  57. Dear Dheeraj,

    I guess you r in ladakh right now.I am reading ur blog for last one month & MAN what a useful this info to me.It seems watever info i require is here.
    Here i have revised my plan bit.
    1.7th june – Leaving for kargil from srinagar.N/H at kargil.8th june evening will reach leh.
    2.9th june local sight seeing & for taking ILP.(READ UR BLOG FOR TAKING ILP)
    3.10th june – heading for nubra valley.N/H at diskit.11th june back to leh.
    4.12th june heading to pangong lake.N/H at pangong.13th june heading to tso moriri via man-merek-chusul-tsaga la-nyoma-korzok.N/H at korzok.
    5 14th june heading to sarchu.N/H at sarchu.15th june want to reach manali before 4:30 pm.since we want to take bus to delhi which departs manali at 06:30 p.m.
    6.Will taxi driver be able to take extra fuel for pangong tso-tso moriri trip?bcoz that trip depends on his willingness to take extra fuel.also considering that we proceeding from tso moriri to sarchu,so only fuel pump immediatly available is tandi.If he doesnt agree then we have come back on same day from pangongtso & proceed to tso moriri next day.but i read from many people here that pangong-tso moriri route via ghusul,nyoma has awesome scenic beauty.so dont want to miss that.
    Pls advice.

  58. hi, we are planning to travel from mumbai in our own car.

    I would like to know if there is any special permission required for taking permission of our own vehicle ?

    If yes,

    1.Then I would like to know can we take permission in advance via post ?

    2.DC office postal Address

    3.DC office reverts in how much time???

    do they post back your permission letter ?

    any special format for taking permission for vehicle?

    and for zojila pass what are the timings ???

    • Hello,

      You do not need any permission for taking your own vehicle. Just carry all the required papers/documents with you. You can get the inner line permits in advance only through a hotel or travel agency which provide this service. They will ask you the documents and once you send the documents and moeny they will fax or email you back the permits which you can make copies.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any doubts or inputs.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  59. Hi Dhiraj- I posted couple of quetions on IM but have not had any response yet. I wonder how to book stay at Nubra or Pangong? Is it done in package by the shared taxi owners who takes tourist to those places?

    one of the other question which I can not find any exact details regarding the Tso Moriri. Are the Pangong and Moriri lake are nearby each other? Visiting Pangong would be enough or should I plan to go up to Moriri? Please advise

    • Hello rajesh,

      You can call up any of the guest houses, or accommodation options present at Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso lake and get your bookings done. I will suggest you check out the most preferred list on hotels in entire Leh – Ladakh including Nubra Valley and Pangong tso, mentioned in the series of articles linked here and here

      For comprehensive details on Tso Moriri including the accommodation, check the article linked here: Travel Guide for Tso Moriri Lake in Ladakh If you have couple of days then do plan for Tso Moriri as well but if you do not have much time then you can skip it. If you can share more details on number of days you have in hand, your starting point and how you are commuting perhaps I can suggest you the itinerary for the trip.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      PS-> Currently blocked a little so not that active on IM and BCMT now a days 🙁

      • Thanks Dheeraj, here is my itineary

        My itinearay is

        26th- Reach in Leh, rest , evening to Shanti Stupa and Leh Market.

        27th- River Indus may be Alchi, please suggest on this?

        28th- Nubra Valley and stay there

        29th- back in Leh and stay overnight

        30th- Pangong lake and stay there

        1st May- Back to Leh, stay overnight in Leh.

        • Hi Dheeraj

          Do you find this Itinerary good for six nights? Should we take some pills or injection before couple of days reaching to Leh.

        • Hi Rajesh,

          I will suggest you follow this plan:

          Day 1 | Delhi – Leh (By Flight)

          — Checkin at Hotel. Many hotels provide free pick and drop from Airport. Ask while you book them.

          — Take ample of rest as well as water or anything that keep your body hydrated enough. DO NOT OVER HYDRATE. Take ORS Soluted water or ORS – L tetra packs from home.

          — Do not over exert your body at any cost. Avoid too much up-down on stairs or avoid it in entirety, if possible.

          — After 5-6 Hrs of rest you can visit Leh Palace, Local Leh market, Shankar Gompa .

          — If you feel exerted go back to Hotel, have dinner at Hotel and take rest. Avoid any exertion. Else continue and,

          — Follow the sunset by stroll at Changspa road and have a nice dinner on varied cuisines offered in-around Changspa road.

          — Go back to hotel for overnight stay at Leh.

           

          Day 2 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits

          — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link: https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/inner-line-per

          — Hire a taxi from Leh taxi stand or Hotel whichever suits you.

          — Bargain hard with taxi driver. Book that single taxi for entire trip after explaining the complete plan.

          — Take his inputs if you feel reasonable and if required modify the plan accordingly but should suits you best.

          — Ask him to be with you guys starting first day itself, if required and charged reasonable else do it at your own.

          — Again DO NOT over exert and take little steps and slow walks only.

          — If feeling OK then do Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening

          — Do not use stairs at any of these places just to see them as it will exert your body much more.

          — Overnight at Leh

           

          Day 3 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder

          — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit

          — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La

          — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

           

          Day 4 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh

          — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs

          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 5 | Leh – Pangong Tso – Leh

          — Do not plan to stay overnight at Pangong Tso as you will not be acclimatized and may fall sick. So, make a day trip only.

          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 6 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping OR Monastery tour OR fly back home

          — Overnight at Leh

          — Monastery tour may include Hemis, Thicksey and Shey monasteries. They come on the route of Pangong Tso but as you will be doing day trip, it will be a bit hectic to include them on that day only.

          I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you need any details or have any queries.

          Regards

          Dheeraj Sharma

          PS -> I am traveling to Ladakh on today for 10 days, so might not be able to reply instant.

  60. Hi, I read somewhere that they don't give the permit to individual tourists and it has to be a group. I am going to markha in mid may and was planning to mountain bike up to khardungla too while I am in Leh. Is getting the permit going to be a problem? I am 19 and am going solo. Thanks.

    • Hello Ratnaksha,

      That is the case with foreigners. Foregin tourist had to apply for permits in batches/groups of four minimum and shall come through a reputed travel agency. Indians can get the permits easily done, just carry the documents as suggested in the article.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any doubts or inputs.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Ratnakshas on

        Thanks for the help!

        I dunno if this is the right place to ask this but doing the mountain bike upto KhardungLa shouldn't be a problem isn't it? Should a support vehicle be arranged? The thing is that my parents are allowing me to travel to Leh and do Markha alone but this is bit too adventurous they say "foolhardy" to be exact. But I still am not gonna pass up the opportunity. I should be able to manage,right? If I think straight! 🙂

        • Hi Ratnaksha,

          If you are good in fitness measures, have your body well acclimatized to under go any fatigue, then the answer will be "you will be able to do biking to Khardung La". When I went last time, there was one guy with one leg who pedaled upto Kahardung La with one leg only, just hats off to his spirit + passion. I am sharing this with you just for the motivation you might get thinking about that guy 🙂 … All you will need is strong passion, good fitness level and acclimatized body to pedal your way upto Khardung La pass. But, keep in mind that pedaling at 18K+ feet is not everybody's ball game, so do not consider it even lightly as well.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  61. Sanjay Bhatt on

    Hi Dheeraj
    I am planning a bike journey to ladhak this june( most probably from 10 june) but i am totally confused about how to plan the itinerary. we are planning to go via Manali route( Manali- Leh- Srinagr). we want to see almost all the places whatever is possible in 10-12 days trip. can u suggest some plan for the trip. Also as we are going on bullet (350 cc) can u suggest what all we need to carry with us and where we will find mechanic shops and where not. Also some information about the petrol pumps in that area.
    Thanks in advance

    Sanjay Bhatt

    • Hi Sanjay,

      Please plan it in other direction as going via Srinagar – Leh Highway will be much much easier on your body and help you acclimatize to the high altitude of Manali – Leh Highway. Also, it allows you to enjoy the beauty of Manali – Leh by splitting the journey into almost evenly in two days which is very difficult in the other direction. Thirdly, it will allow you to fit Tso Moriri lake into the itinerary in better way.

      For all the information regarding amenities like petrol pumps, mechanic shops etc. please refer the summary at the bottom of articles How to plan a journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway and How to plan a journey on Manali – Leh Highway

      Day 1 | Delhi – Jammu / Patnitop
      — Overnight at Jammu or Patnitop

      Day 2 | Jammu / Patnitop – Srinagar
      — Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
      — If you have time then check out, floating market, Shalimar Garden.
      — Overnight at Srinagar

      Day 3 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
      — Enjoy the vistas enroute
      — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
      — Overnight at Kargil

      Day 4 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
      — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
      — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Zanskar
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 5 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
      — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link : https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/inner-line-per
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 6 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 7 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 8 | Leh – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
      — Day trip to Pangong Tso
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 9 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
      — Cover Karzok Monastery
      DO NOT FORGET to Carry spare fuel for about 550 KMs including your tankful
      — Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri

      Day 10 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Moore Plains – Sarchu
      — Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
      — Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

      Day 11 | Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
      — On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
      — Overnight at Manali

      Day 12 | Manali – Delhi
      — Return home

      Day 13 + 14 | Buffer days to be kept incase of road closure due to landslides or snowfall or perhaps you want to enjoy more.

      Additional Points:
      1. Instead of coming back to Leh from Nubra Valley, you can head towards Pangong Tso via Wari La route. If you are riding then you need to carry sufficient fuel for it.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know for any doubts or queries you have.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Sanjay Bhatt on

        Thank you very much Dheeraj. Why I was looking the other route because I am from vikasnagar, Uttarakhand and manali via rohru is much shorter than going the other way.I had already covered the Manali highway when I travelled to Rohtang Pass. Also acclimatization would not be that big problems I am habitual to such environment.

        Also regarding the accommodation is it better to book earlier or walk-in accommodation is easy to find(economic, not costly).

        • Hi Sanjay,

          Since, you are habitual than perhaps you may feel OK on Manali – Leh Highway. Keep in mind that most of the Manali – Leh Highway is above 14000 feet and requires good acclimatization. But, yes since you are habitual then may be you can try, though I will still say take Srinagar route 🙂 … In case you are prefer Manali – Leh then halt your journey at Keylong after Solang Valley (suggested) or Manali and then do Keylong – Leh in one day. On the way back you can do Tso Moriri – Sarchu and then Sarchu – Manali to make it evenly balanced.

          Booking over phone will always be costly and since, I never book and OK to do a little search once I land at the place, I do get some good deals 🙂 … So, if you are OK for running around a bit you shall be fine walking in and getting the accomodation. For nice, prefered list of accommodation option in entire Leh – Ladakh including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well, check the series of articles starting from the link here

          I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  62. hello Dheeraj,

    my 1st query is for siachin base camp, how & from where to get permission for this from delhi, and if not got permission,then from panamik (i hope its on the same route) how far can we go without having permits for siachin base camp?

    2nd- is getting permit for tutok is a bit tricky?

    thanks

    • Hello Ajeet,

      Not exactly sure buddy about your first query but AFAIK, I feel until you have some good contacts in Army, the permits to Siachin base camp would be hard to find. Best bet will be Army Headquarters at Leh. They also send/fax some document to Delhi for final approval. Hence, the process is going to take sometime, if at all someone agrees in the army to provide you the permits.

      You can get the permits for Turtuk from DC office itself.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  63. Hi Dheeraj,

    I need some more assistance from you.

    1.where shall we get tasty food ( veg & non veg ) and suggest us some Leh local food ( other than momos ).

    2. What will be approximate money we need to spend for lunch or dinner per person.

    3. Whether leather jackets are reasonable or expensive at Leh.

    4. Which vehicle suits well to hire for Nubra valley trip & Pangong lake ( for 3 persons )

    • Hello Ramesh,

      1. There are many places at Main Market and Changspa road where you can have good tasty food. Jeevan Cafe is one of them
      2. For a day, you may take average of Rs 200-400 depending upon what you eat and where you eat.
      3. Not sure about this one.
      4. I guess, all vehicles have same price apart from Jeep or vans which do local sightseeing I guess. So, book a Scorpio and go drive 🙂

      I hope this helps. Please let me know for any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Hi Dheeraj,

        Thanks a lot. Very valuable information you are sharing with us. Keep going on. I will call u if i any any more assistance. May i have your contact number.

  64. dear Mr dheeraj. Your blog is very much helpful for the people who are planning to visit Ladakh for the first time. my trip to leh is confirmed between 11th april to 17 th april. How will be the weather. could there be any snow fall in leh?

    • Hello Ramesh,

      Thanks a lot. Well in April, weather will be generally cold and temperatures would go below sub-zero at night. Do go prepared with heavy woolens clothes for sure. In Daylight, light woolens will work and you will have pleasant times but nights if you are not used to cold, you may find sub-zero temperatures to by nippy. Keep heavy woolens with you.

      I hope this helps Please let me knwo for any queries or doubts you might have.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Hi dheeraj. Thanx for your quick response. this is a family trip. in this trip i want to go to nubra valley and stay there for a night and secondly to pangong lake. Will you please suggest me how should i plan my itenerary ( i.e., day 1 to day 6 )

        • Hello Ramesh,

          In such a case I suppose you are flying in and out of Leh. So, you can follow something like below:

          Day 1 | Delhi – Leh (By Flight)
          — Checkin at Hotel. Many hotels provide free pick and drop from Airport. Ask while you book them.
          — Take ample of rest as well as water or anything that keep your body hydrated enough. DO NOT OVER HYDRATE. Take ORS Soluted water or ORS – L tetra packs from home.
          — Do not over exert your body at any cost. Avoid too much up-down on stairs or avoid it in entirety, if possible.
          — After 5-6 Hrs of rest you can visit Leh Palace, Local Leh market, Shankar Gompa .
          — If you feel exerted go back to Hotel, have dinner at Hotel and take rest. Avoid any exertion. Else continue and,
          — Follow the sunset by stroll at Changspa road and have a nice dinner on varied cuisines offered in-around Changspa road.
          — Go back to hotel for overnight stay at Leh.

          Day 2 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
          — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here: https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/inner-line-per
          — Hire a taxi from Leh taxi stand or Hotel whichever suits you.
          — Bargain hard with taxi driver. Book that single taxi for entire trip after explaining the complete plan.
          — Take his inputs if you feel reasonable and if required modify the plan accordingly but should suits you best.
          — Ask him to be with you guys starting first day itself, if required and charged reasonable else do it at your own.
          — Again DO NOT over exert and take little steps and slow walks only.
          — If feeling OK then do Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
          — Do not use stairs at any of these places just to see them as it will exert your body much more.
          — Overnight at Leh
           
          Day 3 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping or you can do tour to Sham Valley
          — Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Zanskar, , Gurudwara Pather Sahib
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 4 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
          — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
          — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
          — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari
           
          Day 5 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
          — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 6 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
          — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
          — Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)

          Day 7 | Leh – Delhi – Flyout

          Now incase, you feel better on Day 3 then skip Day 3 and head to Nubra Valley for night stay. You can plan to travel Day 3 on Day 6 in that case as it will give you a buffer day so as to ensure you do not miss flight due to any road closure in worst case. But, make sure you are feeling well on Day 3 before heading to Nubra Valley.

          I hope this helps. Please let me know for any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  65. Nishank Jain on

    Hi Deeraj,

    Can you help me just that how much Inner line permit copies are required for visiting of Pangong Lake & Nubra valley for submiting at check post.

    The sample form & application available in artical is valid for April 2012.

    • Hi Nishank,

      You should get 6-7 copies and I guess it should be fine. The sample form is to show how to fill the application form, so use blank version of it to fill in your details. The application letter can be written in any format, I have just presented my version of the same. As long as you specify the details mentioned in the application letter, you are good to go with any other format.

      The format of the application form most likely will remain same. IN worst case if it has changed you can just copy the details you have filled in your form to other and submit the already ready document set of yours.

      Regards

      Dheeraj

  66. S Bandyopadhyay on

    Hi Deeraj,

    Many thanks again. Another related query. Will the Leh taxi drivers be ready to stay overnight for our trip to nubra valey from Leh.

    Sanjoy

    • Hi Sanjoy,

      Yes, the rates are according to the option you choose with one night, two night, single day etc. Are you flying to Leh? What else do you like to do in 4 days in Leh? May be I can help suggest the itinerary for the trip, to get maximum out of your stay.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  67. S Bandyopadhyay on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Thanks for your reply. I have another query. We are planning to stay 5 nights at Leh and 1 night in Nubra valey. Can you please suggest whether we should book beforehand the vehicle for the sight-seeing trips or we can do that after arrival at Leh. Which one will be less costly.

    Thanks again for youe helpful comments.

    Sanjoy

    • Hi Sanjoy,

      You should book it once you land in Leh and you should directly speak to drivers at Leh taxi stand instead of involving Taxi Union or any travel agent. It would certainly help you get about 12-15% discounts on the union rates. Talking over phone always will always be costly 🙂

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase of any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  68. S Bandyopadhyay on

    Dear Dheeraj,

    I am planning to visit Leh with my family. We have proper photo IDs, but my daughter does not have yet. Is it ok to get inner line permit for her if we produce her original birth ceritificate along with our (parents) voter ID copies.

    Thanks a lot..

    sanjoy

    • Hi Sanjoy,

      I guess it should be fine enough to get you the permits for your daughter. You will get the permits after showing the above documents.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any doubt or queries.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  69. Robert Devasia on

    Dheeraj

    Is there any issue in using a Private Vehicle (Mahindra Jeep) from Kerala in Leh-Ladakh.

    Thanks for the GREAT Post

    Robert

    • Hi Robert,

      Thanks alot. No if the vehicle is private number registered then there is no issue at all. Just carry all the relevant car papers and photo identity proofs along with valid Driving License. If you go via Manali – Leh Highway, then you will need permit to travel on Manali – Rohtang Pass road, which is issued from DC office Manali. In case you are coming from Leh side on Manali – Leh Highway, you will not require any permit to drive down from Rohtang Pass to Manali.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  70. Hey Dheeraj, thanks for putting up such a great piece of information altogether on one website. Had a query regarding getting the permits:

    Is it possible to get all the permits for all the places you want to visit at the same time if in case the trip is pre-planned?

    • Hi Nitin,

      Usually, this is the process only. You get all the permits for all the places you want to visit in the trip at one time only 🙂 … You just need to mention the names of the places you visit and the number of days you will stay in Ladakh for the same. Fees is calculated on the basis of number of days and permit is provided on the basis of places you want to visit. So, mention all the places when you apply for the permits. You can check the sample application letter as well as sample application form to have more details.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regrads
      Dheeraj Sharma

  71. hi dheeraj,i do follow u on indiamike and your post is really helpful.i am finalizing my trip via srinagar and 14 days is too much for me.but i do want to cover the must see places in leh and ladakh..

    i also want to cover sonmarg on my way to leh from srinagar.is it possible??

    we are a group of four and rest of my friends are from IT sector,so we can spend a maximum of 7 days in leh and ladakh,rest 3 days we want to cover srinagar,patnitop,sonmarg etc..

    can you please help me on this???

    thanks for such an useful post…

    • Hi Dr. Shyam,

      I will suggest skip patnitop and directly fly to Srinagar and finally fly out of Leh. In this way you will be able to cover everyting in Ladakh and Sonamarg too. You can follow the belo itinerary in such a case:

      Day 1 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
      — Enjoy the vistas enroute
      — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
      — Overnight at Kargil

      Day 2 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
      — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
      — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Zanskar
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 3 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
      — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 4 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 5 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 6 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
      — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
      — Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)

      Day 7 | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
      — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 8 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping or you can do tour to Sham Valley
      — Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Zanskar, , Gurudwara Pather Sahib
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 9 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
      — Cover Karzok Monastery
      — Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri

      Day 10 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Taglang La – Leh
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 11 | Fly out.

      In case, you still need to skip any day then skip Day 8 and try to start early on Day 2 from Kargil to cover these places of Day 8 on the way to Leh.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any doubts or queries.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  72. Rocky Manch on

    Thanks for the helpful blog…..It seems you got stuck during your visit as the cloud burst happened on the time if i am not wrong…just checked from the dates on the sample filled form..:)

    • Hi Rocky,

      O yes, we did get caught in the Leh – Ladakh flash floods. It was scary, very scary I shall say and so many prayers brought us alive back to share such helpful content with others too.

      I am glad that you liked the information present on the blog. Please let me know incase you need any inputs for your Leh – Ladakh trip.

      Regards
      Dheeraj sharma

  73. it's so great to find out your blog. I'm going there 1st April by myself and staying there for a week. An inner permit for a foreigner like me is a must rite. I would be great if I can see you there.

    • Hello Giao,

      Thanks alot buddy. But, most probably I will be going in the third week of April this year. Yes, you will need a protected area permit (similar to Inner Line Permit). Let me know incase you need any details or have any queries.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma
      PS -> Sorry for the delayed reply

    • Amol Shivarkar on

      Hi all last year i was visited Leh with my Parents but this year m planning to go with Friends anybody want to join i will plan to go around April.

      • hey Amol,

        I hope you doing great. All the best wishes for your trip, I will be in ladakh too in April end. so, if you happen to be there around that time, we will surely meet over a cup of tea or coffee 🙂

        Cheers!!

        Dheeraj Sharma

  74. Hi Dheeraj.

    Just finished reading this article..

    I'm confused whether they will provide the permit for two of us or not as I'm going on my bike with a pillion rider.

    Thanks,

    Ravi

    • hi Ravi,

      Why do you think so? You need to apply the permits for both of you, they will collect the fees per person and that is it 🙂 … You will get the permits for both of you. There is no connection between permits and how you gonna travel to places of the permits. So, nothing stops you here, just download the form and prepare the documents as mentioned in the article. Once you reach Leh, get the permits for both of you without much hassle.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Dheeraj,

        I had read somewhere that they don't allow one or 2 person for travelling.. They give the permit to 4 or a group of more than 4 people.

        • Yups, Ravi you heard it correctly but that is for foreign tourist and not Indians. In any case, they also get the permits because they club with other tourist present around the DC Office having similar requirement. So, nothing much to worry.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • Great Ravi, my pleasure. All the best for your trip and keep letting me know for any queries or doubts you might have for your trip 🙂 …

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

    • mr.Ravi when r u planning to go???? even i am planing a trip in my bike!!!! i am from kerala

      • Hey Naveen,

        I hope the above article was useful for your Leh – Ladakh trip. If you have any queries related to planning the Leh – Ladakh trip.

        Regards
        Dheeraj Sharma

  75. We are planning a trip to Manali – Leh – Nubra in July-Aug. Some of us are non-Indian passport holders. Could you plea advise if process for Inner Line Permits is same for both or is there a diffrent process?

    • Hi Amigo,

      For NRIs, I am not so sure about whether you guys need to apply for Protect Area Permit or for Inner Line Permit. But, the process is more or like similar for all and it is just the application forms that may differ. Foreigners need to apply for PAP (Protected Area Permit) which is issued for one week and Indians apply for Inner Line Permit whose application form has been linked in the article. I stronly feel that you may also be required to apply for Inner Line Permit but again not so sure 🙁

      I am heading there in April again and will definitely get this clarification done then, perhaps even get the application form for Protected Area Permit as well.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  76. I am still below 18 and do not hold a PASSPORT.
    WHAT should be the alternative for PASSPORt as PHOTO ID.
    I have school ID card.
    COLLEGE ID CARD.
    10th 12th MARKSHEET.

    • Aatmik, if you are still below 18 yrs. I guess college/school id card will suffice but I hope you are being accompanied with some adult member? I will still confirm this from my friends who take their children with them and reply you back 🙂

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      • Yes there is an adult with me.
        BUt he's my uncle..
        he is carrying a valid INDIAN passport.

      • Nehul how many day you want to visit? At that time the only option is to fly-in and out of Leh as the roads are closed by that time. What is your starting point?

        Regards
        Dheeraj

  77. Road open 12 may 12 Srinagar to Kargil. Appely for Inerline Permit for Leh & Kargil from Kolkata address D.C.Office Ley & Kargil.

    • Hi Mr. Paul,

      I guess it will be difficult to predict so early if on May 12, 2012 the Srinagar – Leh Highway will be open or not. Generally, June is the safe time to travel because the highway opens either by end of May or starting June. So, I will suggest that you keep the plans for June.

      I do not have the exact addresses of DC offices in Leh and Kargil but once you reach there they are not at hard to find and every other person knows the way to it.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  78. Deepak Rao on

    hello dheeraj

    Can i go to ladakh alone .is there any difficulty to get inner line permit for single person.

    • Yes, Deepak, you can go to Ladakh alone. No issues in getting the inner line permits for even a single person :)… Let me know incase you need more details about Leh – Ladakh.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

    • Hi Deepak Rao. i have one suggestion for you go with your friends u will enjoy more.

  79. Hi Dheeraj,

    Me and my friends are planning to visit Leh- ladakh. But we cannot ride bike from mumbai to Ladakh. Is there any alternative way which way we can enjoy d beauty of kashmir on bike. I mean do you know any polace where we can get bike on rent for 8-10 days. If Yes, Could you please share that with me & Do you have any iternary in that case?

    • Hi Amol,

      I will suggest that you go through the article on renting bikes from Manali for Leh or may be you can fly to Leh and then rent the bikes there. The tips mentioned in the article remains same for Leh as well. But, if you want to enjoy journey from Manali to Leh then hire/rent bikes in Manali only. Here is the link – How to Hire or Rent a Bike or Motorcycle in Manali

      Let me know the number of days you are planning for the trip, I will suggest the itinerary accordingly 🙂 …

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  80. Hi Dheeraj,

    Thanks for the fascinating and detailed blog.

    I have a query for you, and I hope I can get an answer.

    I am planning for a trip to Laddakh on bike with a friend (No girlfriend .. lol….) just two of us.

    I have heard that Border Police and Army do not allow you go to beyond certain places around Pagong and Tso Moriri, if you are a group of less then 4 people.

    Is it so ? Please clarify if you have any idea about it.

    Regards

    Ashish

    • Hello Ashish,

      As long as you both have permits for the place, you are free to roam there. No one will stop you. to go beyond Pangong Tso towards Changthang Valley you need to write all places enroute which you wish to cover. With Pangong Tso written on your ILP, you will not be allowed to go ahead of Spangmik. So, write all places mentioned above for Changthang Valley and do take this permit in person not through any agent. I have known many couples too who have done this circuit together without any group. So, it is a fallacy or may be rumor spread by some travel agents who are not able to get permits for Changthang Valley 🙂 …

      Don't worry plan your journey ahead and just make sure you have the permits for places you want to visit. I hope this helps. Let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  81. Hi Dheeraj….

    This is Bhaskar from W.B.Its great relief from stress to plan ladakh tour after reading your article.We are a group of 12-15 people and starting from 1st of july 2012 from Delhi.We are trying to cover Kashmir valley,Lahul & Spiti and ofcourse entire ladakh.Its a dream tour for us and i have given the massive job to plan the entire tour.

    After reading your all of the post i have planned to start from Srinagar.

    DAY 1. JAMMU RAJHANI

    DAY 2. JAMMU TO SRINAGAR night stay at Srinagar.

    DAY 3,4.Explore Kashmir valley.

    DAY 5. Srinagar to Kargil/Dras(?)[suggest me the better place for night stay]

    DAY 6. Transfer to Leh.

    DAY 7. ILP preparation and Leh sight seeing.

    DAY 8. Tour to Nubra valley,night stay at DISKIT.

    DAY 9. Visit Sumur,Panamik and start for PANGONG Tso through Wari la,night stay at Pangong Tso.[is it possible & how many km we have to travel for the day?]

    DAY 10. Enjoy the Pangong Tso and start for Hanle on the way to Tso moriri.Night stay at Hanle.

    DAY 11. Hanle to Tso Moriri,night stay there.

    DAY 12. Start for Tso Kar and night stay there.

    DAY 13. Finally start for Himachal on the way night stay at Jispa.

    DAY 14,15,16 FOR ENTIRE LAHUL & SPITI….

    1. Is it possible to move directly from Nubra to Pangong in one day bypassing Leh?

    2.If we leave Rotang Pass & take Kunjum Pass to enter Spiti,can we miss the beauty of Leh to Manali journey,if so,how should we add that along with the entire Spiti.We can add 1 or 2 days for that.

    Expecting your valuable comments for the dream tour…

    Thanking you

    BHASKAR

    • Hello Bhaskar,

      You plan looks quite OK but I will add a few days more to really enjoy the beauty of Ladakh. Actually, you will be on road most of the time with least rest days as well as no buffer days. Few inputs that I will suggest –
      Day 5 – You can stay at Kargil. If someone is strict Veg. then take the dinner (or drunch) at Drass only as Veg. food is hard to get in late hours at Kargil, as I know.
      Day 9 – I guess it will be a very long day if you include Sumur and Panamik too. If you are OK with 13-14 Hrs ride then it can be done. I will suggest either add few days here or drop Changthang as of now. Also, You are looking for Nubra Valley + Pangong Tso + Tso Moriri via Changthang + Manali – Leh Highway in one go without any Petrol Pump to refuel the tank. This will mean you need to carry fuel for about 900 KMs as it might be possible that you will not find fuel at Diskit Petrol Pump in Nubra Valley. So, try avoid such a long journey without fuel and either add 3-4 days or skip Changthang.

      Better will be to do –
      Day 9 – Sumur, Panamilk – Tangste/Pangong Tso (if possible with daylight left)
      Day 10 – Pangong Tso, whole day and overnight
      Day 11 – Pangong Tso – Leh
      Day 12 – Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang (This way you will need to carry the fuel at Leh/Upshi/Karu for just 550+ KMs circuit including Manali – Leh Highway)
      Day 13 – Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Moore Plains – Pang – Sarchu (No need to stay at Tso Kar visit it by leaving early from Tso Moriri on Day 12)
      Day 14 – Sarchu – Jispa
      Day 15 – Jispa – Udaipur – Triloknath Temple – Jispa (You are covering Lahaul here)
      Day 16 – Jispa – Chandratal (you can spend time at Chandratal. Skip Spiti Valley as there is too much to see/explore in it and you do have much time.
      Day 17 – Chandratal – Rohtang Pass – Manali
      Day 18 – Manali – Delhi
      Day 19 + Day 20 – Keep atleast two buffer days or more.

      Now, there is trade-off between Kashmir Valley (covered in above plan but if excluded will save you two days), Changthang (dropped in above plan), Lahaul Valley (covered mostly in above plan), Spiti Valley (only Chandratal included). Make your choice and we can re-iterate the itinerary based on the choice. You have to choose little if you have less number of days and keep leftovers for your next visit.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know for any doubts/queries.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Hi Dheeraj…

        Firstly beg a pardon….since i forgot to say you HAPPY DIWALI…..so its BELATED HAPPY DIWALI.

        NOW again thanks to you for your valuable advice.

        Keeping the scarcity of fuel pump i am rescheduling the trip.Actually i am trying to avoiding Leh for second time and also there is a wish to visit the remote corner of Ladakh viz. HANLE.

        would you plz suggest me the best place to stay at PANGONG Tso & Tso MORIRI…for Leh & Diskit i have got your HOTEL REVIEW and its also within our budget.

        Lastly plz guide me about road condition either it will open or not on the 1st week of July and also about the rent of SUV type of car for the whole trip…..

        Waiting for your reply….

        Regards

        BHASKAR

        • Hey Bhaskar,

          Wishing you a very very Happy Diwali as well… Thanks for your wishes too.
          Well, if you want to visit Changthang then I will advice you to drop Kashmir Valley that will save you two days for Changthang. It will be far better experience than Kashmir Valley in July. If you like to go with Changthang then we can re-iterate the itinerary. As I said, you can avoid Leh but I will advice you to got to Leh as it cut shorts the journey and give you time to relax as well as enjoy culture around Leh. It is a good experience too. Rather I will ssay plan the whole trip for Leh – Ladakh only to actually get the feel of the place and relax too with apt time to do justice for the place. I am sure it will be far far better than running to see many places, just concentrate on Ladakh because even one month is less to actually explore Leh – Ladakh. You will not be disappointed. The approximate cost for the taxi (hire Scorpio only as prices are all same) will be around 50-55K for the entire tour. Keep in mind that Kashmir taxi is not allowed to roam in Leh – Ladakh for sightseeing and vice – versa. Similarly, Leh – Ladakh taxi is not allowed for sightseeing in Himachal region and vice-versa.

          Let me know what you finalize and I will edit the required itinerary. I hope this helps. Please let me know for any doubts/queries.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • Again its good to see your valuable and prompt reply.I will be very grateful to you if you kindly provide your mail id or mobile no[if there is no problem],so that i can reach to you very promptly……

          Regards

          BHASKAR

  82. Thanks a lot, Dheeraj, for such a wonderful article and Application Form!

    And also link to Srinagar – Leh Guide!

    Looking forward to expert guidance on other issues also whenever needed!!

    Thanks once again

    Regards

    PraKaant

  83. I have prepared an itinerary that I wish to see in Leh but Can you suggest a good contact info who arrange jeep safari. I shall be leaving in Sep 2011

    • Hello Sheetal,

      Well I am not sure what do you mean by jeep Safari. I guess you can arrange a taxi (Scorpio / Xylo types) comfortably yourself once you are in Leh from Leh taxi stand because booking anything from here would mean higher price and less discount. While once you reach Leh, you can go to Leh taxi stand directly talk to drivers and check the condition of vehicle and then bargain about 15-20% to what they quote as taxi union rates. Sepetmber being lean season for domestic tourist you may be able to get close to that 20% discount figure. I hope this helps.

      If you like to go for some specialized jeep safaris then you can also contact the owner of Shanti Guest House who runs a travel agency as well and are well established too. The contact given below for Shanti Guest House and Tour Travels.

      Phone: 0091-1982-253084/250023
      Mobile: +91-94191 78760, 99069 82118, 94198 88833

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  84. Saugata Mahindar on

    Dear Mr. Dheeraj,

    Thanks for your input.

    I am concerned about the comment of the tour operator that DC-Leh does not have power to issue permit for Hanle ! If it is so, who is the next higher authority – can you please arrange to provide me the communication-address of DC-Leh so that I can write to him directly in this regard?

    I already mentioned the places on the way through which we can reach to Hanle, but still the tour operator refused to persue the ILP for Hanle and advised me to arrange by my own. Will there be any issue, if applicable ILP for the entire trip (except Hanle)is arranged by the tour operator and the Hanle part is arranged by myself ? We would be having 2 ILPS for the entire trip , in that case !

    Last but not the least, unless I get any accommodation, it won't be possible to be at Hanle – apart from the observatory guest house, I heard few local people also provide Homestay – do you have any contacts at Hanle or Leh who can help me in this aspect ?

    Regards,

    saugata

    • Hello Saugata,

      I am wondering why he gave you such statement. It is only Leh DC who can give the permits for Hanle, no other authority as far as I know. Yes, it is true that ILP for Hanle is issued subject to the present political or border situation but they are in any case issued by Leh DC only. I will suggest that do not believe on what travel agents say because many of them don't even know about the places of Changthang Valley and they fool tourists rather travelers interested in that part of Ladakh by giving such baseless statements. It is always better to get the inner line permits for Changthang yourself. Are you short on time? If no, then just spare 2-3 hours on the first day you visit Leh and get the permits made yourself. If you are short on time then you need to find some strong source who can get the permit for you. The travel agents or hotel staff may not be of much help in case of ILP for Changthang including Hanle, AFAIK.

      Yes, there can be issues if you apply separate permits, I would suggest better not apply the permits twice within the same duration. If he has got the permits for the Changthang then just drop Hanle rather comprising the whole plan. I am quite sure that you will be able to get the permits for Hanle if you go in person to Leh DC office. I have read about and knew so many people who have visited Hanle by getting the permits from Leh DC office only. My friends mostly stayed at couple of home stays available there but you cannot book them any how. As far as accommodation for observatory guest house goes, the last update I got from my friend was they no longer entertain people who just land there and for booking the rest house you need to know someone in Indian Institute of Astrophysics, as told by him. Anyhow, you can check yourself by writing or calling at the below contact –

      Indian Astronomical Observatory
      Indian Institute of Astrophysics
      Post Box No. 100, Leh-Ladakh 194 101 INDIA
      Tel : 91 (01982) 252195, 253104

      There is a PWD rest house as well along with some homestay options. I hope this helps. Let me know in case you have more queries or doubts.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  85. Also, please make sure that you are not accompanied by any foreigner as ONLY Indians are allowed for permits for Changthang Valley (Man – Merak – Chusul – Hanle etc)

    Regards,
    Dheeraj Sharma

  86. Amol Shivarkar on

    To Mahindar,

    Its a very easy job to get ILM its takes only 1hr for whole procedure. People are very helpfull in Leh.

  87. Saugata Mahindar on

    Dear Mr. Sharma,

    Your information and the permit forms are extremely helpful for whom who would like to visit Ladakh (myself along with my wife & son of 10.5 yrs. in coming Oct'11). I have few specific queries regarding the ILP:

    1. Can I arrange to get ILP in advance ? If yes, for how many days in advance the ILP is issued ?

    2. Can I send all documents/request letter/at per cheque/draft from my place (Haldia, WB) to the DC office at Leh (or any other place in J&K) so as to get an ILP by post ?

    3. We would like to follow the following route to go to Tsomoriri via Hanle from Pangong:

    Tso Pangong-Man-Merak-Chusul-Dungti-Loma-Rhongo-Lekaru-Hanle (overnight stay) and Hanle-Lekaru-Rhongo-Loma-Nyoma-Mahe-Puga-Korzok/Tsomoriri(overnight stay)

    I have contacted one tour operator at Leh for customising my entire trip to Ladakh starting from 04.10.11 upto 13.10.11. They informed me that although they would be arranging the ILP for the entire trip, but they would be unable to do so for going to Hanle since according to them Hanle is not a Tourists Area and it’s a restricted area. They won't get it and also the DC does not have power to issue the permits for the Hanle.

    Request you to guide me to get the permit for going to Hanle from Pangong and back to Tsomoriri.

    4. Do you suggest any accommodation in Hanle? I came to know there are two G.H of PWD & Observatory – is there any way to book the same on 10.10.11 ?

    Would be grateful on receipt of your reply.

    Regards,

    Saugata Mahindar

    • Hello Saugata,

      As Amol said people are indeed very helpful in Leh and it will not take much time to get the permits. Once you reach Leh submit the entire set of documents which you can prepare before leaving for the trip using the article above and visit DC office in the morning, pay the respective fees and get the required permits within 10-15 minutes. If there will be rush the clerk will ask you to come after 2-3 hours within which you can book taxi, explore main market, Leh Palace etc. Please find my answer to your queries in respective order

      1. Yes, you can get permits in advance by sending the details to some travel agent or hotel staff in Leh who can arrange permits for you for Tso Moriri, Pangong Tso, Nubra Valley, Dah Hanu, Batalik etc. i.e. most tourist places. Read reply 3 specific to you. The ILP is not issued in advance rather for the specific period when you are planning to travel in Ladakh.

      2. No DC office do not offer permits in advance. It is rather some travel agent or hotel staff or any other known person in Leh who can get permits on your behalf after you send required documents mentioned above in the article. These travel agents.hotel staff charge about Rs 150 – 250 per person for arranging permits on your behalf. They will keep it ready for you before you reach Leh so that you are ready to move as soon as you reach.

      3. Please keep in mind that in order to get the permits for Changthang Valley that is Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri via Chusul route you need to get the permits yourself. The hotel or travel agents mostly get those permits incorrectly resulting in deporting of travelers from some or the other army checkpost. So, get the permits yourself once you reach Leh. In order to visit this Man – Merak route you need to mention each and every place that comes on the way Spangmik – Man – Merak – Khaltse – Chusul – Tsaga La – Loma – Nyoma – Mahe – Sumdo – Tso Moriri and Hanle of course. The permit for Hanle is issued depending upon the present situation but generally the permit is issued AFAIK.

      4. I guess these are the only place of accommodation I know is rest house of observatory. Currently, I have no idea how to book them, so sorry for that. Once, you reach Leh you can ask the hotel staff or I will search and catch any of my friend who have stayed there, if I can.

      Also, please make sure that you are not accompanied by any foreigner as ONLY Indians are allowed for permits for Changthang Valley (Man – Merak – Chusul – Hanle etc)

      I hope the this helps. Please let me know if you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  88. Hello Mahipal,
    If you are traveling on your own car or taxi which has registration outside Himchal Pradesh then you will need permit to on Manali – Rohtang Pass road. If you are traveling on bike or using the public transport or shared taxis or taxis registered in Himchal Pradesh then you do not require any permits.More information is given on the link: Non – HP Vehicles Need Permit on Manali – Rohtang Pass Road
    Of course being officer in Indian army I guess you may stay in your transit camps setup at many places on Manali – Leh Highway. Also, you may get any required assistance from your fellow army jawans as and when you require from them, I guess.
    I hope this helps. Let me know incase you have any queries.
    Regards,
    Dheeraj Sharma

  89. im planning to go to Leh Via Manali- Rohtang pass.Can u just tell me whether I need to take any permit for entering Leh from Manali. Also does being an Indian Army Officer helps?

  90. Hi Nitu,
    1. You need to only fill Nubra Valley it will include the other palces as well. And for Pangong Tso you need to mention that onl. but for Tso Moriri and Tso Kar you need to mention both names.
    2. Then you need to mention Agham, Shyok Village, Wari La as well else just mention Pangong Tso. No, they won't object until the format of form is not changed anytime in future. Till date its the same form.
    3. Zingzing Bar to Baralacha La is about 18KMs. No permit required. Present status is bad roads but open. For more details on the distance and altitudes on Manali – Lhe Highway refer the below link –
    Places on Manali – Leh Highway | A Detailed Description
    4. Although I have not been to Zanskar Valley but I guess you may not be able to do it in just two days. It would be hectic I feel as the roads are not so good in Zanskar which makes the progress slow. It takes about 10-12 Hrs for each side.
    Let me know if you have any queries.
    Regards,
    Dheeraj

  91. hello dheeraj, its nitu again with a bunch of questions regarding filling up permit application form at Leh.

    Q.1 For Nubra valley i am going to fill up "Khardungla-Hunder-Turtuk-sumur-Panamik", is it ok ?

    Q2 If I want to do Pangong from hunder or panamik via shyok or via wari la subject to open the routes and availability of fuel at Diskit to cover 650/700 KM, what should i mention in app. form ?

    otherwise, what should i mention in app. form to do via normal route of leh- karu-changla-pangong & back ?

    i dont think they will object on downloaded and comp. filled form.

    Q3 Baralacha la to Zingzing Bar- distance ? permit required? present status?

    Q4 kargil-Padum, Padum Kargil 245+245 doable in two days? keeping in view we 4 are doing this on 4 REs.

    thanks
    Nitu…

  92. Hello Harsh,
    Yes, the updates you have got are reliable buddy and July 2nd is far away. Currently, petrol is being rationed at Tandi petrol pump since the fuel has not started to reach the place, I guess. Once the supply will start I guess the rationing will stop and before you are going we will surely have definitive updates on the same. So, you need not worry much.
    Regards,
    Dheeraj sharma

  93. Harshavardhan on

    Hey dheeraj.vardhan again.do u have any update

    Regarding petrol at tandi.bcm t have some blogs

    Which say petrol is being rationed.2 lit per bike.

    We r going on 2july.please let me no.

  94. Hi Ravi,
    Thanks a lot for liking the info, I hope it helped you in getting information about the inner line permits for Ladakh. Do download the form and complete the formalities at home itself. Then in Leh it will save you much time from running up and down to photocopy shops. Well, yes you can refer the below link for the Ladakh itinerary covering Nubra Valley and Tso Moriri Lakes and the complete loop from Delhi – Srinagar – Leh – Manali – Delhi:
    <a title="Leh Ladakh Sample Itinerary" href="https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/leh-ladakh-sample-itinerary-2/&quot; target="_blank" rel="nofollow"&gt <a href="http://;https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/leh-ladakh-sample-itinerary-2/” target=”_blank”>;https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/leh-ladakh-sample-itinerary-2/
    You may add one or two more days to cover the Pangong Tso lake as well in the above plan. Let me know incase you you want to fine tune it according to your needs. I would be happy to provide my inputs. Just let me know the days in hand with you.
    Regards,
    Dheeraj Sharma
     

  95. Ravi kiran on

    Hey liked ur info on this page . Do you have any travel itinerary to leh-Ladakh . I live in delhi and plan to hire a Royal enfiedl bike and travel by road to ladakh . can you let me know the best itinerary and suggests plans .

    Thanks …

  96. Hi,

    Great article! & truly appreciate the pdf ILP form, that certainly saves a lot of time. Thanks a lot again. Keep up the good work.

    Cheers!

    Kamlesh

    • Thanks alot Kamlesh. I am glad that you liked it and the information + the PDF form was useful to you. It will surely save much needed time over there. Using this PDF one need to just get it signed and pay the fees at DC office rather running up-down at photostat shop 🙂

  97. Hello Amol,
    I hope the information about Inner Line Permits for Leh – Ladakh was of use to you. Regarding hotels in Leh, we stayed in Hotel Chubi (09419242514/01982253456) near Changspa Road for one day and at at Shanti Guest House, Shanti Stupa Road (09419178760/01982253084) for 3 days. While former had nice garden and good food taste, the later had good room conditions. The dampness was less in the rooms of Shanti Guest House, plus the Shanti Stupa and Changspa Road were both very near to it. Changspa Road is very lively, especially in night and offer variety of cuisines. Most of the other hotels were booked and we didn't get any accomodation other than these two. We wanted a decent and economic option of stay and guess Shanti Guest House served its purpose to the best. You can always walk down to Changspa Road if you want much tastier food though.
    We also checked Hotel Asia on Changspa Road (09622958260,01982253403) which had decent rooms though only rooms with shared toilets were available at our time. Hence, we didn't stay over there. There are other options too but I didn't checked them so can't much comment although if I required I can provide contacts of some other Hotels in Leh as well. I am not sure about your budget but there are other luxury hotels in Leh too, which offers far more comfort but they charge handsome too 🙂
    Let me know in case you need more info.
    Regards,
    Dheeraj Sharma

  98. Amol Shivarkar on

    Thanks a lot. Could you please suggest me the good hotel in Leh, we are around 10 people?