Sacred Yarab Tso Lake at Panamik – Nubra Valley | Ladakh – 2012

The Journey so far…

Day 6 | Khalsar – Sumur – Panamik – Yarab Tso – Deskit – Hunder

It was an action packed first of the day so far, weather was partially cloudy throughout the day but as we entered Nubra Valley it started to further darken… another piss-off for capturing the beautiful Nubra Valley this time. No worries, but our eyes were watching some breath-taking views as we continued from Agham Village towards Khalsar Village of Nubra Valley. Our prime plan was to visit Yarab Tso Lake at Panamik and then head back to Hunder for a night stay at Snow Leopard Guest House. We continued our journey towards Khalsar village with some mind blowing vistas passing by and stopped at a small dhabha for lunch. A lot of tourist stop at this village for lunch mostly either while coming back from Nubra Valley or coming from Leh. We spent about 30-35 minutes or so and started back. I really was not feeling good taste, so skipped to have something to eat and decided to take something in dinner only.

We moved towards Sumur – Panamik stretch to see the unknown small but a sacred lake – Yarab Tso. The vistas were ruined by dark clouds so could not capture much as there was slight drizzle that started. Nothing much happened but a plain drive all the way up to Panamik via Sumur and as Tejas had enough of monasteries we were not very keen on seeing Sumur Monastery and also decided to skip the hot Springs at Panamik after being at Chumathang hot spring. I think the doze of whole adventure was already complete for the day after Shyok Village route 😉 … Soon amidst dark clods we managed to reach entrance of Panamik as the roads were quite smooth which accelerated our progress. Just before you enter Panamik Village, where the traditional gate built of flag as seen before start of almost all villages in Ladakh, there goes a dirt track/very rough towards left which takes you a place right at the foot of a small hill. The hike to Yarab Tso from that point is hardly 15-20 minutes while from Panamik side, the hike is a bit tough and longer. Thanks to Rigzin who knew it and perhaps thanks to him as we were also not too keen to visit this circuit but he told to show us something unseen 😀 …

As we parked our car there, it looked awesome with such magnificent vistas around it. We started the easy hike and were there at the lake within 15-20 minutes and after spending some nice times around that lake we came back. The whole stoppage did not take more than 60-70 minutes in between the slight drizzle. We started back the the journey for the night halt at Hunder and the vistas kept changing on the other side of the hill. When you come near the Khalsar from Panamik side, there comes a T-Section from where you take right towards Deskit – Hunder – Turtuk villages of Nubra Valley, if you continue on this road then you exit towards Khardung La. We had to take right and reach Hunder. Meanwhile, Rigzin got a call as we were approaching that road, that an army truck has hit the taxi of the other group who was with Rigzin’s brother (I knew the one leading that group of 10, Deepak as he exchanged few comments on the blog). We quickly reached the point where the fight was going on with army guys and got into the action after seeing a big dent into Xylo rear window frame, especially Rigzin. Once they all decided to go to local Police, the army guy who was driving the backed out saying HE WAS DRUNK 😯 … Thankfully that car was on the other side of the gorge and to surprise stopped, just imagine if it had been on the other side. It was shocking to see such irresponsibility by army guys and later we felt it was routine for them. The Rigzin and his brother along with his friend asked 7K but managed to get 5K from those army guys in two trucks later after they went with them. The whole drama took about an hour but we kept enjoying the vistas as light and shadows played together.

Finally, Rigzin decided to move with us to Hunder as those guys went back with the army guys to get the money. We inquired a room at Snow Leopard Guest House at Hunder and decided to take it as it appeared very nice and it was newly built in the new block of the guest house. Family looked quite friendly and nice to us and we settled the deal for Rs 800 with extra bedding with dinner costing Rs 200 per person and Breakfast costing Rs 100 per person. We relaxed for a while as it rained outside and also was quite cold too, had a walk in the village before the light went off for the day. When we returned dinner was served in buffet and it was not even up to the average mark!! Worst food I had on the entire trip so far but room was quite comfortable… I chatted with Deepak (from the other group) and after walking in the lawn for sometime, decided to go to sleep imagining myself in the ocean of snow the next day…

The Journey ahead…