The Journey so far-
It was decided that we are going to see the place ourselves and measure the level of disaster for us. Initially we thought it would be great to cover the story first hand and a bit of excitement was under our bellies. We were very skeptical for first few minutes but then we thought what to do here, so let go and see it. Our last mobile was soon to shutdown as the battery for it was soon going to be exhausted and without any power supply at the hotel we badly needed the recharge by any means. So, we started the walk down towards the valley of death…
As we walked down the same trail of Changspa road towards the main market there were loads of people being dropped off from the sumos / scorpios and all had sorrows or horrors of last night written all over. I have a weak heart and it was tough to digest it down and I was just thinking why the hell it has happened to these people. These are same people who had to suffer ultimate isolation and difficulties in the winters, yet this time their summers are also ruined by the nature. Nothing can beat the mother nature wrath and we feel just HELPLESS…
In the air and on the faces of each person we pass by, it appeared as if humble prayers of peace for the souls of dead ones are being flown :cry:… Surely none wanted to be in such a situation but none can help the ones into it already!! We soon reached main market which was called off closed by the local welfare societies in order to offer condolence for the dead ones… I am telling you, the person who loves Ladakh surely feel difficult to see such calamity through his own eyes… I was feeling deep sorrowfulness…Soon we reached a place near main bus stand and I couldn’t remember exactly which one of the trail we followed from backside of the market to reach this point but it was shocker to witness the scenes… A massive disaster had struck as we to the clicks from the vantage point…
The Tragedy… Cloudbursts and Flashfloods of Leh…
There were hundreds of people working voluntarily as saviors and suddenly the anxiety or excitement in us has been over shadowed by mourn inside us. The search and rescue operations were being headed by the army along with many local Ladakhis plus foreign tourists. People were being pulled off from the hell of a debris… We reached near the site and saw the piles of dead bodies which brings tremor in my body even today when I close my eyes to remember the scene. The howling, crying, shouting and desperately weeping had left tears in my eyes and the hands started shaking to click any of the pictures… I didn’t have the heart and courage to watch it any more so forget about even taking the camera out to click any pictures. The Saboo and Choglamsar villages just few paces down from that site were majorly hit and had most number of causalities. We didn’t even knew in which village this place falls and neither had the courage to ask weeping and crying eyes or to know our whereabouts. It was surely not a story to capture as I am still a human and have a weak heart too… I don’t own a TRP…
Just seeing a small percentage of disaster we had to move back as there was no point watching and feeling low when you can’t do much about anything. Moreover, none of us knew how much strength we would require to surpass the few days we are left stranded with. One thing was sure that none of us can bring back what has hit the heaven and to make up the losses of near and dear ones of fellow Ladakhis 😥 😥 😥 😥 😥
As we moved back we saw a running inverter over a shop near main market and requested him to get our phone charged. He took Rs 50 to do the job for an hour and we had three levels of battery now in our cell phone. Everything was shut down, ranging from money transfers to phone lines to Internet cafes, due to unavailability of signals even the Airtel network was working fine just for messages. Just to get a call connected one has to dial so many times from either side :roll:… Soon we reached the guest house and after such long walk went asleep in the beds. We had already skipped the lunch and I think it was around 5 PM we started to go in search of food towards Changspa.
As we walked downhill I had some strange feeling seeing the dark clouds behind the hills of Shanti Stupa… The formation of those clouds were very unique and they looked scary… I requested my friends not to proceed and asked to have lunch near Asia guest house in the same restaurant we had breakfast but they made mockery of me… They mocked as if I am afraid of the dark clouds and thunderstorms and yes indeed I was…
Neeraj words were “What will happen, at most it will rain and we will get drenched nothing more than that will happen. Why the F*** are you afraid of rain. Move on we need to eat Pasta and Pizza…”
Saurabh added further “Yes, we hadn’t eaten since morning, why the F*** you want us to starve. I want to have pizza and pasta.”
Soon we were about to cross the bridge which ran a water stream that proves source of water to the Ladakhis residing near Changspa. I stopped yet again and asked them not to cross the bridge and stay uphill as I was afraid. I didn’t have a good feeling in crossing the bridge and wanted them to eat in a nearby restaurant but they F****** wanted to explore the road in the midst of a calamity. “Munnu(me), you have gone crazy shit” were the words again from the mouth… I was like damn angry and shouted “F**** Y** guys lets go, have that F*** pizza / pasta and let’s kill ourselves”
As we crossed the bridge I just contemplated for a while on the running water stream which was 6-7 feet deep I guess that time and again showed my unwillingness to move forward… Neeraj pushed me ahead and ordered me “Move Forward !!!” … Soon we were at the restaurant and I was tensed to the core as if all the colors flew from my face, I was actually worried for being downhill to a running water stream. We asked the guy there what could we get fastest and he told everything will take similar time so we can order anything. They ordered something and I asked them to order anything that can be served fast and seeing my extreme uneasiness they finally asked the guy to get things packed as soon as possible. It was like impossible to pass the wait time there and I was walking here and there to ease out my feelings or scary thoughts.
Meanwhile, it started to drizzle and my uneasiness started to take a toll as my hands started shivering in tension… Everyone was sitting quietly in the restaurant and all had similar faces… Some were playing cards, some playing music to ease out the tension. Our music star Saurabh soon joined a group of firangs who were playing Guitar and started singing the “The Lonely Road | Greenday”… Neeraj told me that he is going to get some packed food, Maggie and candles for the night from a nearby shop. He asked me to stay calm and composed which actually was proving tough for me at that moment. We were continuously asking for our food readiness but there was no quick response and I had the feeling to cancel the order but I knew this would leave us in quarrel afterwards.
There were some strange sounds from the outside area of the restaurant and people heads were seen running behind the boundary wall of the restaurant. Soon Neeraj arrived with two packets of packed food including biscuits, Maggie and some candles. He had a cunning smile on his face and in a very low voice told that the shopkeeper after selling the goods went running. We asked “WHY?”, to which he replied that everyone is saying that “water level has increased in the adjoining water stream at Changspa” 😯 😯 😯 :shock:…
The words created a wave of tremor inside me and I immediately went out to get measure of the situation…People were running hay way on the road and there were military guys deployed near the turn… I had no clues what was going on and so were the people inside the restaurant… I managed to stop a young guy running downhill to call someone I believe and asked him what happened… He said “Sir bhago, flood aagaya hai, flood aa raha hai bhago” (Sir, run flood has come, flood has come run sir)… I walked down few paces towards bridge and an army guy stopped me, ordering not go ahead beyond this point… I simply had no idea what to do but just run inside the restaurant and call my friends out to find what to do now… As I ran inside here is what follows…
Munnu(Me): Saurabhhhhhh (shouting), leave the F***** Guitar and Run!!! Leave the F***** Food and just Run!!!… Flood has come 😯 … F**** you guys… Army guys not allowing to cross the bridge…now we will die right here…
Saurabh: 😯 F****… Munnu!!! Bhai (Brother), What should I do? Where should I run? Should I climb to terrace of this Hotel in front?..Runnnningggg…. Bhaiya, Bhaiya!!! can I go to terrace, will it save my life? 😥 … Munnuuuuuu (shouting)
Bhaiya: I don’t know, go to terrace but the Hotel is not mine… Bhaiya runs away downhill…
Munnu: You As*******!!! I told you guys not to cross the river but you wanted Pasta!!! F**** Pasta now…
Neeraj: Let’s run, run over the bridge and go uphill… 💡
"…CHAOS ALL OVER… FEAR ALL OVER… PEOPLE WATCHING ALL OVER… PEOPLE PRAYING ALL OVER… PEOPLE SHOUTING ALL OVER… PEOPLE RUNNING ALL OVER… SOME TO PUT BARRIERS… SOME TO SAVE THEIR SOULS… BARRIERS WILL NOT DO MUCH… BUT CROSSING BRIDGE WILL RAISE THE HOPES…"
Neeraj –> Run Munnu –> Munnu –> Run Deepak … Run Saurabh … We need to cross the F****** bridge …
People: Stop Guys, Stop… Don’t run over it … Don’t Runnnnnnnnnnnnnn …
"…RUN FOR THE LIFE WAS TRIGGERED… EVERYTHING WAS FALLING APART IN OUR HEARTS… JUST 60 SECONDS AND WHOLE 26 YEARS OF LIFE WAS IN FRONT OF THE EYES BUT WE WERE RUNNING… RUNNING TO SAVE OUR LIVES…”
Running Running Running… The packed food packet was split and everything spilled on the road but we kept running… Soon I lost one slipper too so I had to turn back after couple of steps… Oh God I am surely going to die here as I turned to pick the slipper and some spilled packed of Maggie…
Neeraj: Shouttiinnngg … Leave it Munnuuuuuu… Runnnn……
People: Stop Guys, Stop… Don’t run over it, it can break anytime… Stoppppp…..
Deepak: Bhai whole tree is coming… run fast…
Munnu: F****… Just don’t stop… close your eyyyyesss and just run over it…. Don’t stopppppp….
One — Two — Three and it was crossed but we kept running as if it was going to chase us down… In three steps although the bridge was crossed but the water was hitting the bridge too… The whole lot of debris was flowing in the water as if yet another cloud burst has occurred somewhere far on the top to fill the water which was 6-7 feet below… the tree that we saw at distance when we touched the bridge was I think gone past below in matter of those 2 seconds which took us to cross the deadly bridge… It just needed a second to break the bridge and carry one of us crossing in it at that second but God was ultimately with us… Seeing us passing many other passed too because staying downhill was surely lurking with danger…
People on the other side were also involved in the action as many of them were packing their bags and heading towards Shanti Stupa uphill to save their lives… Even the restaurant owners, the guest house or hotel owners all were climbing towards Shanti Stupa to save their lives and families… I was desperately in need of water which Deepak was carrying and we had to make a run to Shanti Guest House in order to collect our valuables too… While running we also decided to reach the top of Shanti Stupa to stay safe that night… There were more than thousand people I feel crowded already at the top… We immediately packed our cameras as I separated the memory cards from both cameras and car keys inside the wallet so that none of them separates from me under any circumstance and we left everything behind in the room… We were wise enough in that scary moment to carry the dry fruits in the bags and our jackets to fight the cold of night…
The wild run for life has take a toll on our bodies and I was getting a feel to puke but thank god nothing come out, which helped me preserve the salts inside… The night was going to be toughest of the life and deadly scary too :cry:… We asked the lady at Shanti Guest house to confirm if our choice is correct and she replied it depends on us only but they cannot leave the Hotel. I went up on the terrace to see the situation and there was nothing but a loud humming sound of gushing water, it was occupying every ear of every soul present there… It was surely something not to be remembered again as we stood firm on the decision to climb to Shanti Stupa in order to spend the night…We tasted the vibhuti (ashes) of Lord Hanuman which accompanied us on the trip for our protection, given by our loved ones on the start of this journey and started the march towards Shanti Stupa…
There was large queue of people on the stairs wanting to climb to Shanti Stupa and with back packs on we too wanted to reach the top as soon as possible. It was to be second time in the same day that we will be climbing Shanti Stupa steps again but since this time the price was even more precious we didn’t feel it…Perhaps it appeared that first time was more tiring then this one as we continuously climbed to top without a break and that too even after that hard sprint for life…
Meanwhile drizzle had also picked up the speed and people were packed up at the top… It was tough to find shelter or even space to sit… People were sitting where ever they were finding tiny bit of space just to squeeze their legs in between… We too found a space to sit together but in wide open with light rain falling… It was getting cold and our thoughts were numb as if we were not yet out of those yelling voices wanting us to stop… None of us was feeling anything and it looked as if another nightmare is going on but yet again it was real… It was happening around and we were stuck right in between… Undertaking things lightly and carelessly by my friends / cousin could have cost our lives as I was literally crying thinking of the moment when I asked them not to cross the bridge 😥 😥 :cry:… Prayers from my wives/parents/relatives were really working and deep inside I knew that no matter what happens God is with us and will show the path towards exit when he presumes good for us… 🙂
Soon ever inch at Shanti Stupa was occupied by the huge herd people gathered from all walks of life. Everyone wanted to save his or her life that night and you can imagine every bit of place, be it in wide open or be it under the shelter of cafeteria, was covered by some or the other individual… Many were sitting on the stairs and many have fastened their tents aside the slopes… Be warned these were the same slopes from which rocks were falling in the morning… Every single soul in those thousands was praying to God for mercy that night, so do we 🙂
Our mobiles ran out of batteries and thank god that military had provided a little power supply in the cafeteria which helped us recharge our mobile a bit while standing awkwardly between such packed house… There was not even space to spread your legs as one sits squeezed in between the crowd on all sides…Soon someone else also wanted to recharge and we had to leave the place…
It was getting cold outside with falling drizzle and after few hours sitting in cold, we get the chance to charge our phone again. So, Deepak and me went inside again so as to charge as much as we can. As we were standing to recharge we saw a space near the dustbin for one guy and within no time quickly captured it… Then to make further space we put the dustbin aside on the space in between windows and I asked Deepak to call Neeraj and Saurabh who were sitting outside in wide open…It was warm inside and a breather in that nightmare night to have some shelter from the falling rain. We squeezed and adjusted ourselves in that little space as only few were interested there due to the presence of open toilet behind the door on the back exit of cafeteria… In between I had a call with my brother-in-law for informing our safety and also asked him to get us out at any cost possible… I knew I was not in thoughts but the situation was such ugly and unimaginable… 😥 😥 😥
It was difficult sitting there waiting and watching the weather to clear out to move back to guest house for a sound sleep… There was no question of sleeping there as people kept on walking over us for peeing just behind that closed doors and we were not sure what more we had to suffer to be safe. It was difficult, it was bad and it was more than a nightmare…The place was stinking with the pees smell… After every few minutes we had to take our mouth outside the window to have a round of breath to devoid suffocation and we were doing it turn by turn… It was difficult to keep the window open due to the cold breeze blowing as drizzle was beginning to lower in tempo… The time was passing at snail’s pace… After a while an old firang tourist couple came from outside to have some shelter from rain / cold and stood right in between four of us… We managed to make some space for the old lady but old guy remained standing… Soon I started sharing my place with him asking him to sit at my place for an hour or so to take a nap as I stand in his place. Then the frequency shifted to 10-15 minutes with both of us exchanging places to comfort each other… After two or three turns I convinced him to get some sleep as I would manage to stand with no problems… Soon, I also got a place to rest my ass, as few people started to move down to their guest houses or hotels… We wanted to wait for the rain to stop and weather to get cleared which ultimately happened at around 5 AM in the morning… We had enough confidence now to move back to hotel and put this nightmare behind to get some sound sleep out of tiring night…
We had sound 5-6 hours of sleep and as we woke up happy to see that sun was shining but it was shining too last day as well… This time we didn’t went outside and asked lady at Shanti Guest House to prepare breakfast for us and she obliged…After fueling up the tummies to the top so that we don’t have to suffer hunger in the day we called our homes to assess the situation… It was final that we would be getting the flight tickets to fly back home and JUGAAD started to be asked for help… After quite a number of calls we had few references of senior staff at Airport Authorities at Leh and my uncle asked to meet Mr. XYZ who was supposed to be the traffic manager at Leh Airport…We started the walk towards the Airport as none of the taxi were available… After walking few KMs we got a lift for a little distance where the guy dropped and showed us the turn which we can take to walk around to reach Leh Airport. We thanked him and reached Leh Airport around 12.00 PM and it was about to close. We got hold of the person we were looking who took us the Jet Airways manager who was also frustrated with the chaos… He did make a promise for our exit tomorrow and we fools believed him… We were happy to reach back on foot and forgot the tiredness of walking so many miles since yesterday…
Now, the next big problem was to get the money out of ATMs for tickets whose prices were rocket high that particular day at least. The manager had asked us to bring 50000 for four tickets at least with us in the morning as there is no other mode of payment except cash :sad:… This meant we had to reach main market again to get ATM access and that too walking 🙁 … We saw the same black safari with BCMT sticker on it having West Bengal number and asked for lift… The guy declined the lift and zipped past us… It was heart breaking to see a BCMTian do that and lasted an ugly impression on my friends for online public communities… I tried to convince but “no words” they ordered me…. After a very long walk we reached the ATM and saw a huge queue in front of it… We knew it won’t be easy to get the money out from this one and dark clouds were building up again at the same place… We were yet again downhill to the stream of water so we quickly decided to reach J & K bank ATM near taxi stand and surprisingly found two of them very near to each other. We knew only one and the one we knew luckily had no one standing… We quickly withdrew the money as much as we can and thought for the rest of the amount we can come early next morning…
We started walking back briskly as none of us wanted to caught in the act of bad weather yet again and moreover, I had a call from Captain Rajeev, posted in Leh who was supposed to reach our hotel to see us. My cousin brother in law was working very hard to get us out and had arranged the reference of Captain Rajeev to help us in that difficult time. Again the F**** old story of pasta and pizza was about to repeat as my cousin and Neeraj started shouted again about their starvation… I gave a damn bullshit to them and their comments because this time it was clear that I didn’t wanted to suffer for their carelessness topped with their stupidity, yet again.
We reached Shanti Guest House back safely before the rain falls again and as we ordered tea, started sipping it down, Captain Rajeev reached. After a quick introduction he asked us to go along with him and stay at the army camps as a guest for him. I also had a reference of Colonel Bharat too who was posted near Oil Depot few months back and offered us help too. As we were comfortable there at Shanti Guest House, initially we told him about the same and said that we would definitely ask for help if needed :)… He was really nice to us and kept the offer which we ultimately took to move along with him. We were about to see army camps for the very first time and were more sure about our safety now. He introduced us to his team and the guy who got food for us from the mess… They were really taking care of us and it was time for good night sleep with the dreams of flying high next morning…
It was 5 AM in the morning as the gypsy from Captain Rajeev was ready to drop us at the Airport… It rained all night again and we were worried but the army guy said that weather would clear in few hours… We were searching the ATMs to get the amount we were short… None of the ATMs were working and we decided to leave with what all we had…As we reached Airport we offered our gratitude to the army guys for such warm hospitality as if we were confident enough to fly home and waved them a good bye… We called Mr. XYZ and he told us that prices are dropped which was a very welcome news for us in such odd situation… When we met him he asked us to buy the tickets ourselves 😡 and thank god we didn’t rely on him completely right from the start. That F***** guy was playing on us to make numbers on some seniors in Delhi… F***** **** are the words which comes to my mind when I think of him today :grin:… He should have told us that he cannot help and we would have surely understood but he was an ultimate **********
Never mind, two of us were already in the two separate queues, one in Air India and other one in Jet Airways. I came back and we kept changing the places in the long queues… Both members in the queue were about to reach the ticket selling window almost at the same time as the counter closed for Jet Airways just when Neeraj was at the second place 🙁 … We still had the hopes from Air India as only two guys were in front of me… As I reached the window and asked for 4 tickets I could only see three tickets were left that guy… He lifted his face to give a sarcastic smile and told me only three tickets are left 😯 😯 :shock:… It was decided that either all will go or none 😀 and as I was about to leave the place he asked me to wait as he found one ticket dropped on the ground… 😆 We shouted with joy and hurrayyyyy we had the final four tickets and the counter was closed… The God was helping us and everything bit of difficulty was planned by the fate which we had to suffer…
We were feeling overjoyed on our return but a thought was in my mind that my Car still needs to be taken back from Manali but leaving aside soon we wanted to enjoy the moment… We had no clue that there was still a twist in the tail which was left for us to spoil the party. We cleared the security checks and started the wait to get the boarding pass. The queue was not moving after initial one hour and there was no one to answer for next two hours. It was already 12.30 PM that we had been waiting for three hours when one guy comes to say that we have to submit our names as all the flights for that day have already gone 😯 😯 :shock:…We need to try again tomorrow… We said what the hell does he mean by “TRY AGAIN”…
Initially he asked us to get the refund of the money and come again tomorrow, stand in queue and buy the ticket. Everyone was like killing that guy and when the mob tried to attack him he ran away calling that he needs to confirm this fact. Some idiot from Air India then turns up to register the names and inform us that the tickets we have bought are open tickets and they can only be utilized if there is space in current flight or if the Pilot sees no problem in carrying the extra load or the Airlines have extra unscheduled flights approved by GOVT. That day they just had one such approved flight in which we all leftovers were not accommodated… Everyone was feeling dejected and yet again they were fooling us by offering numbered sequence to each one and promised that next day these numbered person will be given priority in the same order… I just said to my self “BULLSHIT” :grin:… I knew it is happening as first cum first server basis and the one who is knocking right in front would be given preference for sure… We had our names on 18,19,21,22 :)…
Low, Dejected, Hungry and Unhappy we waited for few hours outside before calling Captain Rajeev again, who as holy soul asked to wait as his car was on the way to pick us from the Airport. We went back again to his camps and stayed there for yet another day with the hopes of going back next day. As we were driving back I was really disturbed to see people living in the temple without any shelter and to surprise the whole village has was empty as the Rimpoches had a warning for today as well…The weather was dark again I was afraid but I wanted to talk to my family to recover some lost mental or emotional strength yet again… After the lunch, we slept like horses and woke up as Captain Rajeev came in the evening to have some gup-shups. It was very nice talking to him yet again and we were really thankful to him for all his support and co-operation with us. He is indeed a very very nice guy and so were his men helping us in getting food or dropping us to Airport. He was for us sent from the god itself because such a support kept us going…We again asked for 5 AM depart from his camps and waved him with final words of gratitude for all his support…
The time has come yet again, it was raining and we still have to leave. This time we would reach in next 15 minutes as we don;t have to search for ATMs and we had already planned it up. As soon as the gates will open of of us will run down to occupy as high position in the queue for entrance into Security Checks… We had an advantage for being familiar to the procedure day before… As we reached Airport we were shocked to see people standing there already and some of them were there since midnight… It was still half hour for gates to open and we asked Saurabh to run madly to occupy the first spot…
As soon as the gates opened Saurabh ran madly like a wild dog to capture the first place in the queue for the entrance. Soon we followed him with the luggage and one by one transferred our luggage in subsequent positions behind him. We had to be ruthless to few people who questioned the queue break but they all were sailing the same boat and shrewdly told “He is our brother, we went for toilet. Does anyone has problems with that?” None retaliated because all were doing the same for their own families… Most of them were from the previous day so they recognized us as they did the same thing when we were upfront and they took pushed the names in front of us last day :grin:… It was tit for tat… For next two hours we kept waiting and finally a guy comes who tells that there are two additional flights that day and our number was in the first one as by the markings he gave… The guards had tough time controlling the mob and we had engraved our faces in their heads and the Inspector their assured that children you would be the first one to enter as soon as we open it up for Air India…Around 7.30 AM they opened the entry for Air India and we ran just madly… two were getting to luggage security checked and two ran to the Boarding Pass counter and kept giving the place to other till we all four reached with complete luggage. Finally it was the moment that we got the boarding passes in a little mellow drama with the staff issuing it…
We had the sigh of relief as we went through the finally security checks and verified our luggage before it gets loaded in the flight. It was a big relief and we had Maggie soups as we waited for our flight to come… We were told that the timings for the flight are 11.00 AM and soon we realized that again one of the Air India flight had flew leaving us behind… The mob was reacting to such bullshit and started shouting as people from support staff were trying to convince each one of us… We felt again there is a first cum first serve as few people returned from the flight even when Pilot refused to carry them… Again people who were relaxing stood up and started pushing each other for a place ahead… Seeing the chaos there was another announcement mentioning finally this time the exact flight number which was manually manipulated by the staff their… This time none can stop us from leaving and as soon as the doors opened everyone ran towards to Bus carrying people to the flight…
Finally we were sitting in the flight which kept standing for next 20 minutes and then we couldn’t believe that it took off. We reached Delhi in next 90 minutes… Many people had come to Airport to receive us with all the drama which spilled for the past few days. Yet in shock we all greeted each face with a big smile and offered our thanks to god to get us safely out from the place as I hugged my lovely wife to say thanks for her prayers and to say that I LOVE HER ALOT…It was not over yet as my car was still in Manali and for which we decided to hire a known driver and get it back from the Hotel. We had already informed the manager of the Hotel and he too was worried for our well being. He was happy to hear our voice and within one week my car also reached my home… :)…
The whole incident spanning over last few days, especially the first day, triggered a massive paradigm shift in the way I see and live my life… I spend more time with my near and dear and loved ones… I no longer run after success madly as I learnt it takes a moment to loose everything and you regret that very moment that why didn’t I spent time with real things, the people who loves me, the people i loves most, why the hell I was running after materialism which kept me occupied whole past life and you regret the incidence when you shouted at your loved ones without any reason what so ever…and you regret and you regret and you regret…It indeed changed the outlook of my life…
This concludes an ever prolonged Journey of my Dreams, a Journey of my Hardships, a Journey of my Beliefs, a Journey beyond my Limits, a Journey of my Life… This concludes MY JOURNEY OF LADAKH…
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